Rick, I appreciate we see things different. I have been in the brick business (since 1983) 41 years now. Started in the brick plants as an laborer eventually became a Glaze Foreman in 1986, later running one brick plant while having over-site on two other plants. This gives me a lot of man hours about brick and mortar and brick and mortar walls. I share this because I had a lot of experience with coatings on all different types on brick and with all types of coatings as well. I am considered a expert on coating brick. Now all that experience at the plants and in the field does give me a clue (so that is our first disagreement) on what I am talking about, But it does not guarantee that I no it all, and does not guarantee I am always right. I might be old now but I still can learn. I am open to what you have to say. I gave you just some of my credentials not to brag but I am committed to serving the Brick Industry. I have committed most of my life to it and I wanted to at least let you know where I am coming from vs just mis-leading people. I truly believe what I say. If you end up proving that I am wrong then I will learn and be a better man for it. I appreciate you questioning me, it gives us both an opportunity. Most brick made in the US are Manufactured to ASTM C-216 Standard Specification for facing brick (I am on all the ASTM International C15 Committees and we are always looking for new people to join if you are interested). Brick made under this standard need to be SW Brick which stands for Severe Weather. They are made to with stand sever-weather, many Brick Manufactures make the brick to be Maintenance-Free and offer 100 or more year warranty. These brick are not made to be painted. The majority of the brick are made this way. There is a few Manufactures that do make a painters brick version. But those are not Maintenance-Free. And no one that I know of in the Industry believes that adding paint will help those brick last longer. Brick back in the 1800's that were not fired/vitrified at temperatures around 2000 degrees could help give some protection. But the SW fired brick today need NO protective coating. None. Once you put paint on a brick it is no longer Maintenance-free. The brick itself is compromised from it's intent. It will have to be repainted and when that time comes the paint should be removed (not as easy as a wood or metal base) or you could just end up painting over failing paint, which I would not recommend (When a paint life cycle starts breaking down it does not happen all at the same time). There is no evidence anywhere that I can find that paint on an ASTM C-216 SW made brick adds one more second of life. I do have a lot of information to share on this subject. But this is getting long in the tooth as some would say. When brick or brick and mortar (wall system) is painted it may as well be another product than brick. Brick have character but that is a whole different discussion that is to long for this. I know people like that paint look but to define what professional is and the craft that goes into making a brick look like it does. Painting doe not make it look more professional. I will agree to disagree with you on that and move on. Another word for crumbling is also spalling where the face of the brick falls off. Brick can spall or crumble that have not been painted, it is because of the situation the brick were put in that caused that or the quality of the brick when made - painting would not have stopped it. But it is proven that painting brick can add to spalling brick in freeze-thaw areas of the country where the paint or coating of the brick helped trap moisture. I am not saying every time but a lot more than you would think. I am currently on a few investigations right now to research this deeper and this could be a future article I publish. I have personally traveled to 31 different states over the last 1 1/2 years meeting with contractors, several restoration contractors researching all kinds of different paints and coatings. I have met with 7 different Paint Companies that have been painting brick for over 20 to 45 years with the different paints used and more currently adding a primer first. This has been coast to coast, North to South. A lot of it not pretty. We are studying paint removal which depends on the type of brick and type of mortar used, we have personally performed some of these tests ourselves. Not easy. Especially on the Bark or vertical scratch textures. Power-washers and sandblasting damaged a lot of the brick walls. We witnessed more success when harsh chemicals were used, not helpful to the environment. Lastly, if you were able to make it this far (sorry about that, but this is important) it is a wall system, which moves (I have written a few articles on this). Moves with the changes in temperatures. Brick and mortar are intended to breathe, take on moisture and slowly release it. The Brick and Mortar have a different absorption and when both are painted the paint is not on a level playing field. I am saying do not paint exterior brick. My fight is not with the interior, only exterior. I know that is a lot, I did try to keep it short. There is so much more I can share but I would rather hear more from you. If you have any evidence that painting brick makes it better, stronger, or last longer I would love to see it. Thanks again, Don

You make a very good point, we also need to do what we teach. It is very easy to stain higher or lower than eye level, even for us. But we have found that when we make an effort to stain at eye level our quality of staining is much approved and we are successful. I remember correcting one of our applicators who was on a ladder and leaning down staining a brick that was knee level. All they needed to do was step down a few ladder rungs and not only would they have stained the brick more successfully it would have been way safer too. Thank you for taking time out of your schedule to respond to us. It is appreciated, Don

If there is absorption we have the right product for you, we are not a paint (no Latex, or Acrylic) but a penetrating stain that does not create a layer but binds itself in the pore structure of the brick muck like a Tattoo absorbs into the skin. Take a glass or bottle of water and pour it on the wall, if the brick darken as the water absorbs into it then your home is a good candidate. Please feel free to send pics to [email protected] to my attention and we can take a closer look together, thanks Don

thanks for the response

No need to ever seal our process. We still leave the brick natural and breathable just like an unstained brick. Thanks for the question, Don

That is not an easy question to answer. It is not that we do not have experience in this area but have seen so much damage over the years. Many do not realize that paint on brick is different than painting wood or metal. Wood needs protected from rot and metal needs protected from rust. Paint offers protection for both but it is limited by time and becomes a maintenance issue. Majority of all Brick made today do not need protected. They are mfg maintenance-free. Brick have a different absorption than wood and metal and the textures of the brick really matter. But what most do not think about is that Brick are are part of a wall system. Brick and mortar will have different absorptions and depending on which brick it is and which mortar type/mix was used it can be difficult to successfully remove the paint without damaging the wall. Once painted the brick are no longer Maintenance-free. It is really important to know the brick on your home and if you know what paint was used. To give you a clearer answer I would need to see a few pictures of your home, some close up and a few a little farther back. [email protected] Attn: Don would be the place to send them. Sorry we did not get back to you sooner. Thank you for your question.

I’m Wondering the same

If you stain with our process, no primer or priming is needed. Thanks for the question

Gary, thanks for the question; please take some closeup pictures of areas of concern and then a few more a few steps back, and let's see what we can advise. Email to [email protected] Attn: Donnie

Ted, sorry for getting to this so late. The pavers are over 23 years old now; the first time we stained them, they lasted over 10 years to where they needed to be stained again; then, some more time went by, and we restained them, and I am guessing that lasted 5 to 6 years. This last time lasted about 1 1/2 years. The pavers are crumbling; I had leftover treads/step pavers and have almost used all those up because the pavers are in such a bad state. No more staining them now. They are just too far gone. I just took a good look at them last week as I was pulling weeds. The pavers really need to be replaced. But the budget is not there for that. Thank you for your question. Don

Marty. We would love to help. Please email us some pics to [email protected]. Thanks for the comment.

David. Please check out www.masonrycosmetics.com. Thanks.

David. Thanks for the question. Please check out www.masonry cosmetics.com. We use the same pigments we make brick with mixed with a water base elixir creating a translucent-like slurry. Perfect Stain for absorptive Brick and Mortar. No Acrylic or Latex. Applied the right way and the right conditions it is permanent. We currently have over 400 documented Case Studies with 227 of them over 22 to 27 years old. Thanks

Thanks for sharing that. We are based out of South Bend IN and Central Ohio. But also have Certified Contractors throughout the Country and we also have DIY kits available as well if the need arises. Thanks again

We appriciate your comment. Good or Bad, you took time to respond. What was the waste? Fixing the mortar color problem or the video itself? Thanks

Thank for reaching out. Please feel free to send a few pics to [email protected] and we can see if we can help. One thing to do is to take some water and pour on a few of the areas that you would like to stain if the mortar darkens we could be a good option to help. The darker the better. We would also like to see a picture of the water test as well. Thanks again, Donnie

Ty for the suggestion

Please email me a few close-ups with a few farther back pics and any area of additional paint breakdown other than a form or powder. For example, any peeling areas. At [email protected], I'd like to talk back and forth from there and see what options we can develop for you. Thanks for reaching out. Don

Sorry we missed this earlier. Send a few close up and a few farther back pictures showing the scope of the brick and lets see if we can help. At this stage of the brick a sealer might not be the answer, but pics will help to advise you better, thanks Donnie

Glad you liked it!

Do not blame you, our videos are very raw. We will strive to do better, thanks for taking the time to share, Donnie

We have been in business now for 30 years. We do have reviews on many of our products for years. But will need to see what we have on the Paver kit. Please reach out to [email protected] and we can email what we have to you. Thank you for your question.

@@MasonryCosmetics Thanks for our response I will be ordering the kit in a month or two. THANKS AGAIN.

Masonry Cosmetics Stain Kits are available at 1.) Masonrycosmetics.com 2.) Amazon- Brick Staining color Enhancement Kit 3.) a limited number of Brick Distributor What is your locations?

@@MasonryCosmetics thank you! I am in the southeast Michigan area

Thank you for this video. Trying to decided if we should stain out pavers. This was so helpful.

@jingrasin If your pavers darken when wet (if they are absorptive) Our product would be great. www.masonrycosmetics.com

@jesp999 I would love for you to document what you have done and continue to document with before- during and after pictures over the next 20 years. please sent the specific product and application. [email protected] For paint removal I would suggest EacoChem.com However to change the color of ABSORBTIVE brick refer to the EXPERTS- Masonry Cosmetics we will keep your maintenance free brick maintenance free www.masonrycosmetics.com

@GodManifest I'm not sure what your asking? Would you like us to help you with color selection? To match another brick? or tired of the orange/brown coloration and you would like a new color design?

Our products are designed for absorbent masonry. Make sure your stone passes our water test. Make sure your stone is stainable A true brick stain is long-lasting because the pigments embed themselves into the masonry pores, like a tattoo would on your body. If the masonry is sealed or has low absorption, our brick stain will not be able to chemically bond with it well, and we do not recommend using our product. To check your masonry's absorption, pour a little water on the wall. If the water beads off it and doesn't darken the wall, you have low absorption. If the wall absorbs the water, and the wall darkens until it is dry, you should be able to successfully stain brick.

We wish we could say yes to spraying. Our product strength is that it is the best product for changing the color of absorptive brick and/or mortar but needs three things. 1. Needs to be applied to absorptive masonry (Just use a glass or bottle of water and pour it on, if the masonry darkens while getting wet then it is a good candidate) 2. Needs applied the right way by brush or sponge. We want the brick or mortar or stone to absorb the stain into the surface. We use the term "Drink" our product in, the brick for example will only drink so much at one time, so we might stain the brick, let dry then stain again with an second application if needed. 3. To apply the stain in the right conditions, you want clean, acid free, dry walls. We are not a paint or paint like stain, no acrylic or latex in our process but just natural pigments made in brick manufacturing mixed with a water based elixir. Our process cannot hurt or compromise the brick in anyway. Hand applying by brush or sponge is the best way.

We use a translucent- like slurry. Our product strength is that it is the best product for changing the color of absorptive brick and/or mortar but needs three things. 1. Needs to be applied to absorptive masonry (Just use a glass or bottle of water and pour it on, if the masonry darkens while getting wet then it is a good candidate) 2. Needs applied the right way. 3. To apply the stain in the right conditions, you want clean, acid free, dry walls. We are not a paint or paint like stain, no acrylic or latex in our process but just natural pigments made in brick manufacturing mixed with a water based elixir. Our process cannot hurt or compromise the brick in anyway. Please check out www.masonrycosmetics.com

Yes. Our process is a translucent- like slurry that does allow the background of the brick to play a large role. Please check out www.masonrycosmetics.com

Absolutely. But first do a water test to make sure your brick are a good candidate for our process. Just use a glass or bottle of water and pour it on, if the masonry darkens while getting wet then it is a good candidate

I would refer you to the masonry cleaning experts. Two companies we trust to answer your masonry cleaning questions are Eaco Chem and Prosoco. Eaco Chem www.Eacochem.com Prosoco www.prosoco.com offers a product called Liquid Marble Cleaner. I would contact there support team for guidance

Thank you for the kind words, it is appreciated. I share with the team if this old man who needs a knee replacement can do it anyone can. First thing is to do a simple water test on the surface, just use a glass or bottle of water and pour it on, if the pavers darkens while getting wet then it is a good candidate, the darker the better. We use a translucent- like slurry that is water-based so no etching but absorption required. We are not a paint or paint like stain, no acrylic or latex in our process but just natural pigments made in brick manufacturing mixed with a water based elixir. Our process cannot hurt or compromise the pavers in anyway. You are asking great questions. No fading or lifting but need three things to be successful - 1. Needs to be applied to absorptive pavers you will know by your water test. 2. Needs applied the right way by brush. We want the pavers to absorb the stain into the surface. We use the term "Drink" our product in, the paver for example will only drink so much at one time, so we might stain the paver, let dry then stain again with an second application if needed but do not want to overload the paver with to much stain at one time that it dries on the surface, we need it to absorb in. 3. To apply the stain in the right conditions, you want clean, acid free, dry pavers. On Vertical walls when we apply it we give a lifetime warranty and have over 400 Case Studies proving the long lasting ability of our process. So no fading, cracking, peeling, blistering or flaking but with pavers/horizontal applications the surface of the paver will see erosion and our process does need reapplied at some point, how soon depends on the paver it is applied to. The stained pavers will get wet naturally just like an unstained paver. Please let us know if you have any additional questions, or email to [email protected] any pictures would like to send us, thanks again Don

If your block absorbs water (darkens as it gets wet)... Our DIY product would be a great solution... www.masonrycosmetics.com/diy-buy-brick-stain

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@gigi_whatever - Painting exterior takes a Maintenace Free product and created a Maintenace issue. Contact our friends at Eaco Chem they can guide you. www.eacochem.com/product-list/strippers.html