I bought an '85 Ranger that was built with a 2.0 liter engine that had thrown the front rod through the oil pan. The previous owner had replaced it with a 2.3 liter long block and quickly had a problem and put it up for sale. When I looked at it, it would start but ran rough and would blow the PCV valve out. I bought it for a steal and found a piston with a hole burned in it. I went to get a new long block 2.0 liter for it but the supplier said he'd have to order it and it would take a week to get here. He said I could replace it with a 2.3 liter that he had in stock and that everything would bolt right up to it. So that's what I bought and quickly found out why there was a hole burned in one piston. He was right in that everything bolted right up but the 2.0 liter head had perfectly round intake holes in the head while the holes were tear drop shaped in the 2.3 liter head, leaving the pointed part of the holes open to the atmosphere and resulting in a very lean condition. I went to a wrecking yard and bought the intake manifold, 2 barrel carb and air cleaner from a '77 Mustang II and it worked out just fine. Previous owner had pookied the hole in the oil pan with Permatex #1. He didn't even hammer the tear in the pan flat, just gooped the Permatex over it. I knocked all the Permatex off, hammered the tear down flat and brazed the hole. I drove that Ranger for another 115 thousand miles until the transmission got stuck in second gear. I gave it away and went looking for another Ranger.

putting smoe engine oil and lit it penatrate for some minutes and then you are ready to go

Like your video and useful.

Absolutely 💯❤❤❤

wow that's a great way to do it

I figured out what was wrong. The clutch master was recently replaced by a "tranny shop." It appears there is no ring with the clip, on the end of the clutch master. SO, the switch has nothing to mount to. Needs a new clutch master. Can't believe the tranny shop left it that way. Probably an NHTSA safety violation.

I couldnt see the pistons, you were out of frame.

👍👍

I wanna do this to my 2011 ford ranger supercab fx4 off road

Good video showing u the effects of buys cheap tools.

FREAKING BINGO CUT WIRE AND REMOVE OR JUST GO TO HARBOR AND BY THE RIGHT TOOL. OR SNAP ON IF U DESIRE

Too much rambling. Get to the point sooner. Thank you

The 7.5 differential isnt necessary to upgrade unless you are really building something with some serious power.

no one likes it when the rubber busts!!!

Good tip, but it would be nice to cut all the explaining about other wrenches and get to the point. Has anybody heard about penetrating oil? Have loosen many old whatever that have haven't been removed over 30 year.

Coool Thanks. Greetings from germany

Thank you 🙏

Hey man, whats wrong with you ?. You waste our Lifetime! 7:20min start to tell us the one little Tip/Hack (3sec)... For this type of Tips (5-15 seconds maybe 30-60 second videos) exists YT-Short Clips please dont make 10 minute videos for a fact that you can tell us in 5 seconds. God Bless You. Greets from Remscheid near Cologne in Northrhinewestfalia Germany.

That “missing” resistor might be on the board. I have one that has 92ohm resistor on the back where the pins connect.

TOO SIMPLE. I mean us. LOL Of course you can always unplug the wires from the connector.😲😲 Forest and trees. Always use copper anti-seize when installing new ones.

Can you say pipe wrench??? Bueller, bueller anyone anyone

Perfect video!!! Wish I found earlier 😂, Should mention- get that plastic bed liner out if you have one !!!

One word....brilliant

Thermostat thermostat thermostat

That was awesome I have to do one this weekend

Awesome thank you!

Hey brother, it worked! I see that it's been 3 years since you made this video but I see it's still getting g views! Thanks for posting!

Isn't it 1234 from front to back 🤔.

Great idea. Pity I had to listen to 7minutes of waffle to get there.

You should have spent more time talking about the plastic end because I have nothing better to do.

I upgraded my 2003 xl long bed from a 8.8 3.55 open to 4.10 trac-lok and changed from the small 15" steel wheels to oem aluminum 16" with 235/70 Michelin all season tires. I also upgraded to 2003 mustang cobra rear disc brakes and didn't need to touch the proportioning valve. They don't stop any better but they are way lighter and never lose adjustment like drums. The truck has a 4.0 sohc and 5 speed auto. 2003 did not come with EGR so they get better fuel economy. I thought I would get worse mileage with the lower gearing but I rarely drive on the highway and make mostly short trips around town. I was surprised to gain a little over 1 mpg along with much better acceleration. I fill up every time the fuel light comes on and average 340 miles on 16.5 to 17 gallons and drive it kind hard, accelerating quickly and making no effort to save fuel. I've been running this for the last 10 years and only put 75,000 miles on it in that time.

I tried to ground the fuse location like you did, but the abs never flashed. Do you have any clues what I might’ve done wrong?

Xado Antykoks verylube - totally nothing ? maybe some in cylinder head, hm.. But piston rings rather no chance.

With all due respect. Economical engine stands are available at harbor freight for less than $99. To be putzing around on the ground was annoying as all get out to watch. Whatever your day job is. I hope you're more qualified at that than you are at this.

The cast iron one would be called a tri Y as in 3 Y the Y being 2 into one and tri for the 3 places you see the 2 into one....just saying.

I am guessing that you are also cleaning the throttle body while you do this. That all by itself makes a difference in how smooth the vehicle operates. If it is clean it won't stick and make the vehicle start off abruptly.

I have the same interface and it even works on Nissans to read CVT temperature with the CVTz50 app. I am not sure if this adapter can do other things like reset steering angle sensors. Maybe with a different app it could. I don't know yet. I do know that with the same app and that adapter you can turn off the DRLs (daytime running lights). My vehicle is a 2017 Nissan Rogue Sport SV and the way they design them they need the steering angle sensor and G sensor reset if any work is done on the suspension at all. This could be as minor as having it aligned. These vehicles may have a tendency to drift slightly to one side even though they are aligned properly and everything else if those sensors are not calibrated or reset and it is annoying and potentially dangerous. I am trying to find a cheap scan tool that can do those things also for $500 or less. I don't need lifetime updates or to always have the latest software. I just need one that covers my vehicle. My vehicle is available overseas and outside the US as the Qashqai. Everything is exactly the same except that overseas it may have the steering wheel on the other side (think England where they drive on the other side of the road). I don't mind if I have to pay a few hundred for the tool I need. I just don't really want to get too much higher than that. I just want the tool so that when it annoyingly gets out of calibration I don't have to keep making appointments at shops to fix that. This had me at the Nissan dealer and they could not find a single thing wrong with the vehicle. I am not sure if their own service department is aware that this vehicle needs that calibration. I have had it to a few different shops hoping that one mechanic would find that one thing no one else could and take me back there to point it out and say there is your problem right there, how anyone missed that is a mystery! It is one of those things that is annoying because it is so subtle that not everyone seems to notice it but it can cause you to turn wider than you intended since that sensor tells the computer where you steering wheel is and how fast you are making the turn. This vehicle has electric power steering and that sensor tells the computer what angle the wheels should be turning and at what rate. If it is off by too much you could get oversteer or understeer which is potentially dangerous even if you expected it. This could be also even more dangerous if someone unfamiliar with the vehicle borrows it since they won't expect it to happen. If they make it back safely they may even tell you that you should get rid of it since they almost had an accident.

O never mind its got the o ring on piston design it's good

That thing wasn't worth the time to work on

Dude, you are a mad man with that slow motion bounce test of the mounts. The things that come from your head might just cure cancer one day. Good job.

Used a 7/8" socket cut up the side with my die grinder to fit the wire. I still use it today.

Ummm, if sensor is bad and replacing, not reuse, cut the wire and remove with box end wrench ! Hello ! ?

Bro i cannot get mine to release to save my life the plastic is all tore up already any advice?

No drama, no fighting. Just calm and curious "sniff-sniff" 🦝 Like ❤

Cut the wire if you are replacing it.

As described.

🙄takes a long time to get the information

Well at least you can't say it was clickbait

Really good video thanks 👍

😂 you are right, it’s only advertising