Well how long is the shotgun shell that might help I don’t have a shell hanging around

Great little stoves. I prefer the dual control 400 models, but these work fine. The flame control is a bit finicky on these. It varies from stove to stove, though. I believe this is a 400B or a 442. Big yellow flames are NOT NORMAL. This happens when you flood the generator and mixing chamber with liquid fuel. This happens when you try to baby and nurse it through warmup. If you follow the instructions by the book, you'll nearly always get a pretty clean light up. I'm not telling anyone WHAT to do. I'm explaining HOW to get the best results as the engineers who designed it intended. Will this guarantee zero yellow flames? NO. But they won't last long and you'll be cooking in about 30 seconds if you follow the procedures below. HOW and WHY THEY WORK is below the instructions. Fill it on a level surface. Pump it up 25 full strokes. Hold a lighted match or lighter to the burner. Open the valve to Hi/LIGHT. Add 30 more pumps, one stroke per second to maintain good pressure until the generator is generating gas. Adkust flame to desired level. Add pressure as needed to maintain desired flame. Nursing the valve defeats the "instant lighting" feature engineered into these. If this doesn't work as advertised, something is wrong with your stove. Theory of operation/How instant lighting works on this model. Instant lighting requires high pressure and flow through the generator when cold. This means lots of air. Pressure is your friend. Use it. The fuel/air tube on these has a metered close tolerance, tiny hole for a fuel pickup at the bottom and a larger one for air induction on top in the air space above the fuel level. While this one is square and plastic, it's still two tubes. It works by the same principle as the ones with a spring and brass plunger rod but is automatic without those two parts. When the stove is cold and you set it to HIGH/LIGHT, the pressure in the tank cannot force enough fuel up to the generator to meet the demand of the relatively large opening at the gas tip because the fuel pickup orifice is smaller. Since the little hole can supply enough volume, air forces it's way down from the bigger hole above the fuel and blasts at high velocity past the tiny fuel pickup orifice at the bottom, atomizing the fuel into a fuel air mixture (just like a tiny carburetor) This fuel air mixture rushes up the other tube and into the generator as a fine mist that will burn relatively cleanly when it sprays into the burner mixing chamber and out through the burner rings. The coil inside the generator does a few things. It slows larger droplets and liquid down, forces most of the flow to contact the inner wall of the generator and makes for a long spiral path with lots of surface area for better vaporization and heat transfer to the fuel. As the generator gets hotter, the fuel starts to vaporize in it. As the tiny liquid fuel droplets try to expand into hot gas, back pressure is created and builds inside the generator. This back pressure slows the flow rate from the tank more and more until the tiny orifice alone can supply the demand from the generator. Remember vapor is many times less dense than the liquid it came from and takes up much more volume as it expands. Since it's expanding, it will follow the path of least resistance and goes where the pressure is lowest, through the gas tip. Once at operating temperature, no more air is being sent to the generator, only liquid fuel that hits the hot generator surfaces and vaporizes almost instantly. Now you only need to add air when the fuel level drops. But this is exponentially slower than when it was forcing the fuel air mixture. Common mistakes/bad advice/myths: Open the valve just slightly so you don't flood it. WRONG Opening the valve slowly or partially will almost instantly flood the generator with liquid fuel. Wait until you hear it spit. WRONG When you hear the spit, too much liquid is already in the generator. Take your thumb off the pump hole on the up stroke. WRONG The pump cup is designed to let air pass into the pump tube on the up stroke. Keep your thumb on the hole while you tighten the pump knob. WRONG The check valve at the bottom of the pump tube take care of that for you. In fact more air is likely to leak past the pump cup this way as you aren't allowing tank pressure to seat the check ball. But IF your check valve is leaking badly, you can get by using your thumb as a manual if leaky check valve. Hope this made sense. Feel free to comment, gripe, tell me what grandpa taught you, complain, or ask questions. I want everyone to enjoy clean light ups like I do.

Nice job. Great little classic stove. Durable, dependable, simple, and wonderfully engineered. Lots of ways to operate these things. Right on the money with opening the cap. You can skip the straw several ways. I like using a little nasal spray bottle of alcohol for priming to keep it clean. But if you use the stove fuel, open and close the cap, if it's hot out, the the sun alone will get the fuel flowing in just seconds. You can press your warm hands on the tank or simply tilt it if it's full with the cap loose and with the burner slightly lower the the fuel level and open the valve to fill the priming cup. I like to raise the heat shield during priming and initial running to heat the tank up to get it to full blast significantly quicker. In severe cold, I slosh a bit of fuel out of the tank and light it. BE CAREFUL. Don't do this if you aren't absolutely certain you didn't get any fuel on your gloves or hands etc. The make a couple of tiny plunger pumps and a mating fuel cap to accept the pump to pressurize the tank and get things moving quicker. I can't say enough good things about these or the Svea 123, Primus71 Optimus 80, and 88 as well as the bigger 111 series.

Sir , is it FACHO brand which is made by different brand names for marketing

Im just wanna say again this video is freaking amazing for reloading. YOu sir are top nitch, and thank you so much for the effort and time it took you all those years ago. Hope you a re still shooting and reloading, and your world is good.

Man this video is amazing, you are a really good teacher. But I am ?old as well, and I will have to correct you on the belt. It is there for head spacing and nothing else. Not about the power. Just head spacing. YOu got a sub out of me brother, this is a fantastic reloadig video.

If you learn how to use them, both are awesome stoves. If you are betting your life on these stoves, you must certainly plan for failure of wear parts and breakables and thus carry spares. I like a metal pump personally but I've had Coleman Apex for decades that's working just fine and there are tons of MSR stoves out there that are decades old too. You KNOW it's a plastic pump and you treat it accordingly. These are tools. You take care of your tools, and they return the favor. I have a LOT of different stoves. My first gen Optimus Nova is probably my, "if I could only have one" stove. I base that on multi fuel capability and durability. I have a lot of Colemans that I love dearly, but they are limited on fuel capability. Good assessment overall. I will say that you didn't preheat the Primus enough. You should never have the yellow flaring you had here. I preheat with alcohol to keep the soot to a minimum. Shaker jets cleaners are great. I don't think you waited long enough for the fuel lines to purge. If the bottles are filled to the line, there is ample air space for them to purge. Both fuel pickups were sufficiently positioned to pull headspace air to purge. I can't speak for these two, but my Nova takes nearly a full minute to purge on full blast. The magnetic cleaning needle on the Nova allows jet cleaning while the pot is on as well as working as a shaker. Arguments against them are simply ridiculous. A guy below compare them to an automatic car wash vs hand washing.. HAHA! This isn't bugs on a windshield, it's a gas jet. They are flat out better, full stop. You can't bend them break them or lose them in the snow. Manual prickers are fine, but in this day and age? C'mon. They are antiquated vestiges of a bygone era. Don't get me wrong, they work, but they are NOT better. I don't light my home with oil lamps or cook on.... well actually I DO like to cook on my camp stoves at home, haha! But I do it because I like using them, not because they are better than my gas range. And if my power and gas went out, I'm ready for that too. All that said, no one is stupid or even wrong for liking or disliking anything. Go with what works for you. I have over a hundred stoves of different types, brands, and models. I LOVE something about every one of them. There is no "perfect" stove. Some are really close, though. Learn yours, use it and enjoy it.

Thank you so much for your support I will definitely keep that in mind. What you showed is much more helpful than the others. Thank you 😊

There are very few KZbinrs out there who can deliver nearly cut-free videos that are accurate, detailed, thorough, and clear, that are over an hour long that can keep me glued to the screen from start to finish without falling asleep. JIUJITSU2000 is one of them. Impressive! I just got into reloading. I use a Lee Challenger Breech Lock. And I wish I had watched this before I started!

Greetings, love you bro. Spot on video. Thank you and keep rocking ❤ Godspeed

Ya know that seat folds up to get a straight shot at that pop plug !! 😮

I've learned with battery powered chainsaws that the secret to getting the most cuts is keeping the RPMs up and letting the saw do the work. If you just have a couple of cuts to make, you can push them. But if you have a lot of cutting to do, keep the chain sharp and RPMs up. When you hear them drop, you're pulling a lot more amps. They are amazing tools. I have the dual battery Makita and the Milwaukee. I like them both. The Makita, as usual, is smoother with higher chain speed. The Milwaukee has a little more power, but slower chain speed. A LOT slower. The both get the job done. Solid review, keep up the good work.

REVISIT: Don't know why I didn't comment on this last time, but that 400 looks like it simply didn't have enough pressure. When you get really low tank pressure, there isn't enough gas velocity to pull enough air. Or, little spiders have taken up residence in the mixing chamber/burner box. Haha! I still have em all and love em all. Some more than others. I'm not a fan of the single valve control on THAT 400 model. I have a couple of them the 400s with dual control identical to the 508(same generator on both models). I'm not gonna ranks them but my least favorites are still the newer single valve control models. They still work, but flame control is finicky. Some tune up work on the cleaning needle, the L hook and eccentric block will do wonders. Basically deburring, polishing, and straightening. Thanks for this video. It popped up in my recommendations again. Glad it did. Keep up the good work.

have you checked the price of scrap lead? you spent 2 hours saving $10.

Fanstatic video just bought one, would love to see an installation video .. 👏

The bleach has to be new. It goes bad after 6 months

Thanks for the explanation on the berdan primers. Just broke a decapper last night.

Very Good!

it's been 8 months. any rust issues?

No good this 6000A , I bought it , fake

What about the decentered brass contact button inside the head at 8:57 ? Really no one did see that ?? There was a faulty soldering process.

Nice job!! ,I will try this out !!

Terrible. The rag absorbed a lot. It has to be impossible to wash. Another loss is in the remains. It should be dry-rendered. The stuff you throw out is still mostly tallow.

I need an OWB level II retention holster for the G2C & Viridian. Any leads?

It's so cool right, ugh I like that, so compact & power full, that fantastic

I almost bought one last month, they had 1 23 left on sale for 4995. but they only wanted to give me 1250 for my 2014 klx250 that only has 5000 miles on it. great price on the klr but had to pass. and it was that pretty orange colored one.

Love the small Rifle Primer Rem 7.5 in 45 ACP nickle Fed small primer pocket non +p for my 45 Super loads. Better primer pocket support ! 1075 fps with 250gr

how did you dry the cases after you rinsed them of medium dust....

How useless is the mesh bag? seems like if you cooked over a flame the soot would get all over everything because of the holes in the bag.

KLR is on my list

Really enjoyed you showing us your new bike. It's a fine looking bike & I love the color. Please do more videos with this bike. One day out type videos would be great! Have a great day my friend!! Cheers!! Illinois, USA

Thank You.

Any mods?

Aloha friend! This video randomly popped up in my feed. It’s been a while since I’ve seen any of your videos, I hope all is well. I just wanted to let you know, I did buy this flashlight on your recommendation in this video many years ago, I use it regularly. It still works great like the day I got it. Honestly, I’m surprised it still works after so much use. Amazing! Aloha 🤙🏽

Best bike for the money.

👍 😎 👍

This is the video I’ve been looking for. Very detailed and informative! Thanks for covering every set available 🙌🏼🙌🏼

Nice review, thank you kindly for this upload.Your knowledge and overall rundown of this inverter will help me decide rather to purchase or not. Keep informing the people...

I have the camo version and i really enjoy it when i am hiking

Got one last year. Threw my slipy pot dragonfly in the recycling bin

I have that same older model that you have; its great to have in my van for camping, travel, and job sites so I don't have to beg clients for use of their restroom.

Can we use regular gas cylinders on it as well?

awesome!!!!!!!!!

I have the bougerv version of this and I was wondering if I could run 2 in parallel? The company won't get back to me so I'm on my own trying to figure it out

Misaligned gas tube will cause resistance as the bolt gets closer to full battery. Another thing to loom for is some of the cheaper bolt carrier groups have rough finish and need polishing. It should glide into battery. Listen closely when you slide it in and out. Too much metal on metal friction or a sandy feel will tell you

Hey my display will not show a thing but it does make the sound when i turn it on but thats it no display even if i press the buttons… any help? I bought it online though n its exactly what you have

Hi from Australia, I like your idea about nail polish, (have you tried stove paint? ) on the threads of the nozzle. Do you know what Coleman actually used? I have tried to find out but have not had any luck there Thank you great video I also remove the burns plates as there is often corrosion which effect’s the flame quality.

Never light your insert outside of the case! That was extremely dangerous. Other than that nice video brother. ❤️

Great video. My 442 dual fuel is going much better now!! Thank you