Hi, and thanks for watching. Ok, so fully restoring one of these can be a little or a lot depending on condition, maintenance history, and hours of operation. Motor bearings wear out, capacitors need changing (especially the RIFA type!). Head wear is a biggie. Even simpler things like switches that are intermittent, RCA jacks that are also intermittent. Light bulbs and LED's. Rubber belts etc. It can be a lot, and in my case, it has been almost everything mentioned other than excessive head wear. I purchased the replacement cards from an eBay seller called revox-online.de, and bought other main components(like motor run caps) from an Australian company called Nagravox. Hope that helps.

Thank you! Appreciate the feedback, and btw your videos on restoring these machines have been a great help and inspiration for me to attempt to restore my own deck. I know my methods are often unconventional. Repacking these bearings was mainly an experiment to see if it would work more than anything else. I think it's important for others who may look at this video to think about how the starting condition of the part is what really dictates what you can get away with. I.E if the bearings I attempted to rebuild were worn out, it would never have worked. Chances are, all I've done is extend the useful life of the part beyond what otherwise would've been the case. I imagine at some point I will end up replacing them, but for now they're quiet and seem to be holding up. Thanks again.

I completely agree! the only reason I opted to replace the board (and maybe I should have added in a really good close up shot of the underside of the PCB) is because somebody in the past did a very poor job of trying to socket the chips and there is damage to some of the traces and pads, and some are actually missing. It looks to me like somebody else (who was more skilled with a soldering iron) came in after and saved the card as best they could. I still have that card and could go over it and see if I can find the fault, but I'll probably just keep it as a backup for now.

@@dopeyrobot Good idea to keep it as a backup. I have had my share of those broken traces on Revox PCB. In many cases i use fine insulated wire to bridge the traces. It always work. But a sound PCB is akways the best solution, like you did.

Ok, found it! Thanks for the advice. I'll add it to the order.

Actually, since this video I've built an even better tuner. So maybe I'll do something on that one too.

Sorry for the late response. Unfortunately, I have come across this problem as well, and can confirm that some lenses are difficult to open. I think that back in the day, these competing lens manufacturers didn't really want folks opening their lenses up, and did things like applying glue to threaded parts in order to make it more difficult.

@dopeyrobot I did get it off in the end. I wanted something that would grip it all the way around the circumference, so I used a cable tie tightened as much as possible and I pushed the joint with my thumb. It was obviously a bit fiddly and it still slipped, but it did it in the end.

I think I also tried a bit of double sided tape between the cable tie (zip tie) and the rim to increase friction.

My only idea is for you to try and find a second lens as a possible parts donor.

Hi! I'm not sure but I have one too and will attempt to make a video showing that process soon.

@@dopeyrobot I look forward to that and keep up the great content. :)

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Hi and thank you for watching! regarding your query I think that the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies here very well. I have a collection of old lenses that I use regularly and have only had to clean two of them so far. The ones that are clean inside don't need to be taken apart. I mainly use a proper lens cloth and wipe the outside glass surfaces as needed.

Search for lens rubber tool on Ebay

Japan hobbytools on ebay. they have the suckers as well.

Well, this puts me in a difficult position. You see I have that same lens but mine is in good condition(ie no dust or fungus). So on one hand I could make that video, but in the process I could end up making it worse. I'm not sure I made this point in the video, but for anyone who hasn't tried to take apart a lens before, you have to realize that your work space is probably full of dust. As soon as you open that lens you're letting all that airborne dust and debris in! What the video doesn't show is me opening the 50mm lens up like five times before I finally got enough dust and whatever else out of it so as not to be noticeable in photos.

@@dopeyrobot ahhh... I’m in the UK, I assume you live in North America? Otherwise I’d suggest sending you mine to play with! There is so much fungus in my lens that a little dust would be preferable. I only paid about £17 for mine, so I might buy some cheapish tools and give it a go myself. I’ll document it if I can! One question, do you think I need to undo the three sets of flathead screws along the lens? It looks like they line up with where each lens is?

@@dopeyrobot omg yes!!! Thanks

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You re welcome man, hope it helps. Yeah, I would not have been able to get this lens apart without those rubber cups.

That's a great point. Definitely a must have if you plan on fully restoring a lens and some will have JIS screws so something to be aware of too.