Never use “mileage” and “Hummer” in the same sentence! Seriously…no change.

Transfer Cases Unlimited

Yeah I cannot find them anymore either. I’ve been using the one-piece version from Specialty Parts.

Im not very familiar with the C/C trucks. Obviously they are very similar and I think the BW should bolt up okay. Controlling it may be a challenge. You are correct about the H3 ABS…it has four independent ports at the master cylinder, to vary the pressure to each corner. I don’t see the point of swapping axles, other than to get the H3’s 4.56 gearing and electric lockers. I assume they are the same track width.

@@4speedfunk Thanks buddy. The track width of the H3 is significantly wider (57.5" vs 65"). It's one reason why some swap the H3 axles/suspension. Besides the wider track, by swapping you get (1) an 8.6 10 bolt rear (C/C came with the 8.0, except for the later V8 trucks); (2) stronger iron diff cases (C/C were aluminum); (3) bigger brakes; and (4) basically every suspension component is bigger/stronger. Since the H3 and C/C are related, the parts swap like Legos.

Wow. That’s a huge difference in width. I’ve cut apart dozens of H3’s but have yet to do anything to a C/C.

@@4speedfunk yup. next H3 you SAS, you could sell the take-off parts as a DYI H3 swap for the C/C folks, or, offer as a service in-house. Would probably be a nice additional income stream. Plus, at over a 1000lb lighter, the C/C are pretty capable with the OEM H3 stuff.

@@4speedfunk FYI: (rear H3 swap) kzbin.info/www/bejne/moeYaKx-nqaea7c (front H3 swap) kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIaUl2eqhbCIjbs

I’ve done a 15 or 20 of these conversions…they drive very well. Check my other vids.

Are you close to Illinois ? I have a 2006 hummer h3

Approx. $9k

Hi Ryan. Sorry those bags are made by VIXEN (not Vulcan)....part #VXD2600DP. Also on the bottom of the bags, I use some plastic cradles that allow the bag to lift off the springs at full droop. These cradles are made by TycoonOne, part #KU09140BK. Both are available at Amazon. If you wish to have more info on the rear spring-over-axle mod...hit me up via the THORparts website. I can get you all the parts you need to complete your own SOA.

@@4speedfunk I sent you an email to find out more about the air bag system. I’m running a Rancho lift with spring under. Just want to add bags for when I load up.

Haha. Thanks. I'll have two complete kits ready for installation by September, so that might work out with your schedule. Hit me up when you're ready.

Thanks. I'll have two complete kits ready for installation by September.

None.

Sorry...Issues with the email. I think I got them fixed. Try hitting the website again.

Around $8k-$11k for the parts. Depends on how crazy you get with the off-road goodies. You can reach me via the THORparts.com website.

Yes...I have done five or six of these, and they are all driving around with no issues. This mod won't do you much good unless you also have disconnecting hubs (all of my installs were with solid axles). This kit will disconnect the front output of the t-case but, you still need to somehow disconnect the front hubs to get a TRUE 2wd.

⁠@@4speedfunkI see in the video that actually you're sending all the power right to the rear dif. I want to also reduce weight. 1. Can I remove front dif, shaft and hubs? 2. Is there a way to send the power right from the transmission to the rear dif and remove this T-case using a long driveshaft? Thanks! 🙏🏻

1. You can remove the front differential, driveshaft, and halfshafts…but not the hubs. Also you need to gut the outer CV joints and install the stub shafts into the hubs with the proper torque. Put the t-case in 4HI-lock. That will make a 2wd Hummer. 2. You must remove the t-case adapter from the tail shaft of the transmission and install a shorter output shaft. You will have numerous dash lights on permanently.

@@4speedfunkThank you so much for your answers! Yes, I was talking about the axels, no hubs... My mistake! 😬 I was looking for an extension tail housing and output shaft adapter for the 4L60E and remove the short housing that is connected to the tcase but I know what you're saying about the dash lights lol Thanks again for your time!

Your welcome! I might also add that you can remove the front drive line (like you inquired about), and drive around indefinitely in 4HI-lock. This will basically give you a 2wd Hummer. You can leave the t-case in place, to keep all the dash lights off. The front output will still rotate but, it won’t do anything with the driveshaft missing. I have driven for YEARS like this…no problems at all.

Transfer Cases Unlimited or THORparts.com

Transfer Cases Unlimited…. [email protected]

@@4speedfunk would you be able to send me a quote to buy this kit? I've emailed but no reply yet.

@@truckman29801, Contact George at transfer cases unlimited. He manufactures and sells the 2WD kit. His email and phone number are below. [email protected] 631-226-1448 Tell him CJ at THORparts sent you.

1). I've not heard of that problem before. Neutral can only be reached by pressing and holding two t-case buttons at the same time. Perhaps the buttons on the dash are "sticking". This is quite common. 2). If the t-case is shifting modes by itself, it is usually due to a worn (plastic) shift fork, or sticking buttons. 3). Yes...Transfer Cases Unlimited sells the 2WD kit in this video. The kit comes with a new aluminum fork, so you can fix that issue at the same time. Call George at: (631) 226-1448

@4speedfunk l already took the transfer case off and put the improved fork. Transfer case was clean and no metal shavings . Do you know what keeps the transfer case lock in 4 high? Thanks

@@12masterr Hi again. The shift rod inside the t-case has spring-loaded detents on it. When everything is working correctly, it will stay where you put it (or where the encoder motor puts it). I bench-test the t-case thru all modes before I install the encoder motor. I do this with a pair of pliers, and you can "feel" the detents for each mode. I rotate the input shaft, and make sure that I have 2HI, 4HI, 4LO on the outputs before I install it back into the truck. Neutral is all the way around at the end of the dial. I suppose if the encoder motor is freaking out...it could put the case into neutral. But, normally this can only happen by pressing and holding two buttons simultaneously.

@4speedfunk thanks! When I have the case apart I can not feel any detents. Are they located on the shift fork? I tougth the electric motor was keeping it from moving! Thank you very much!

@@12masterr When properly assembled, you can take a pair of pliers and rotate the selector shaft through all modes. It should feel quite stiff, and all three modes will be very obvious. The detents are built-in to the shaft assembly. If the shaft freely rotates with little or no effort…then something isn’t assembled correctly.

Last I heard the owner still has it. Shoot me an email via the THORparts website with your contact info, and I will pass it on to the owner of this rig.

What’s the cost to do this conversion?

@@waynerowland4533 Around $7k to $10k in parts (depending on options). Labor takes 100 hours.

I have used a number of different boxes on these H3 builds. The Nissan Xterra box is very similar to the Toyota IFS box on this yellow truck. However, they both use a rear-pointing pitman arm which limits how far forward you can position the axle. If you want to stretch the wheelbase, I would recommend a Toyota FJ-60 or FJ-80 box. These older FJ boxes have the forward-pointing pitman arm that gives more room for the stretch.

@@4speedfunk ok thank you!. I would like to push the axle slightly forward but at the same time don’t want to give up handling characteristics or have to deal with faulty boxes… Do you think 40s would still be possible with this box or the Xterra box (just for extra capability in deep snow)? I have an 08 Alpha that I just had to replace the carrier in as it literally split in half so now I’m a bit more worried about the IFS as I was planning on going to 35s from these stock 31s. Both my inner CV axle joints were almost impossible to move though as I’m sure that helped contribute to the carrier failure..

You will probably need to call George at: (631) 226-1448. If you cannot get thru, I can get one to you. Contact me at THORparts with a shipping address and I will get you a quote.

The variable full-time output assembly (sun & planetary gears) gets replaced with a simple splined coupler. It permanently couples the rear output shaft to the input shaft, and the chain sprocket that drives the front output is allowed to free-spin. So in all three modes...the rear output is solidly connected to the input, all the time. The front output is controlled via the fork and it functions just like stock...either locked or unlocked. Then the range fork will select low or high like ratio just like stock. The only downside to this kit is that you give up your full-time variable (torque sensing) mode...something that I really like about the H3. But, the trade off is worth it if you are doing extreme wheeling, and don't want to spin a big, heavy, solid axle all the time. You must have the ability to un-lock the front hubs (solid front axle swap). Not sure this mod has any advantages with the stock IFS, as you have no way to disconnect the hubs. I have been driving it around for a few months...love it so far.

Hello sir. YOUR video is very helpful. I'm trying to locate the conversion. What is the part number?

And how much does it cost

$499 from Transfer Cases Unlimited in New York.

I see, so the fork that used to lock/unlock center diff now can lock/unlock the front drive chain?

Thanks.