And today I had to replace the ware ring

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Yes, the actuator was new from partzilla

@@ccjetsports those are pricey. Thanks a lot for sharing

Thanks! I'll work on the rideplate vid next, the hardest part I had with this ride plate was accessing the bolts while on the trailer. The bunks were right in the way.

Here's the rideplate vid. Not ready to publish yet, but this link should work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppyqaX6BotqXnc0

@@ccjetsportsyour a legend!

Struggling to get those silver spacers out, mine seem pretty stuck in there, any tips?

@@cameronmiller5524 clamping on vice grips and twisting usually does it. You can heat them with a torch but it may melt stuff. I have a buddy that uses a tap and bolt to get them out but there’s not much room to get the die in there with the gate still on

So you spend your time making snarky comments on the internet. It was the thermostat which isn't common on SeaDoos from my experience. Thanks for stopping by 🫡

You'll need heat and vice grips. Clamp the vice grips on the sleeve and work it back and forth. It will chew up the sleeve so I carry extra sleeves.

I used to cut them out with a sawzall but now I use a torch to melt the plastic and pry it out with a screwdriver (this way is faster) You can freeze the new wear ring so it slides in easier but usually its not necessary

@@ccjetsports duly noted! Thank you, sir!

When I replace the IBR Actuator (motor/module) I don't use silicone on the rubber gasket, yes a new motor needs to be married with BUDS and the new unit comes in the all the way up position (forward angle)

I'm always worried I'll snap a bolt off doing that. There are lot of salty skis around here

It sucks when that happens. To get it off you need to get the nutsert in the fixing plate to not spin. Sometimes you can clamp it with vice grips over the plastic, but usually I have to cut away the plastic to get the vice grips on the brass piece. The worst ones are the GTI models that don’t have an access hatch.

I wonder why spark plug sockets are such an emotional trigger 🤔

I've changed thousands of spark plugs this way with zero issues so your weird superstitions are unfounded. I hope these fun comments keep coming... engagement helps views

@@ccjetsports oh there will be I've got 40 plus years in the business this is not the right way one day you will see it only needs to happen one time you have 0 feelings in that electric ratchet

Sorry, but using an electric ratchet isn't problematic. It saves a lot of time and as you can see in the clip I also use a manual ratchet. Thanks for stopping by to announce that I'll never have the privilege to work on your precious equipment. It pains me deeply and will surely be the reason for many sleepless nights

Ever install LFR spark plugs and your socket gets stuck in the hole? Probably not… but that’s why the rubber piece is removed from that socket. Thanks for the advice 🫡

I switched to all locking extensions, tbh I think harbor freight has them, but if it works for you don't change it, need a spark plug stock pile like that

@@ccjetsports No, never had any socket stuck.

The locking extensions are definitely the way to go! They wear out though, I need to order another set

Happy to help! It’s frustrating when you buy new hubs and they don’t fit 🤦‍♂️

Es anticongelante para vehículos recreativos para climas fríos. Reemplaza el agua para evitar daños por expansión. (Google translation from) It’s RV Antifreeze for cold weather climates. It replaces the water to prevent damage from expansion.

Thank you!! Great advice, how are you moving around a 200# roll?

@@ccjetsports I built a trolley out of a hand truck and wood that lays down and is able to roll around and has a spot on the back to strap a propane tank to. I could send pictures. I'm out right now doing 6 boats today

For sure, this past season I had a bunch of 2010 - 2012 SeaDoos that had bad fuse blocks. The ones that had hatches in the back. The fix was to replace the wiring harness.

For me it’s an upsell. I earn more with SeaDoo maintenance which is my focus. I wrap around 40 JetSkis and a handful of boats in a season. You could easily do 3 or 4 in a day including travel.

Hell yeah!! I’ll have to get one for next season 🤔

This is easier and faster. No need to disconnect any cables or throw your back out.

On this model I loop it around the mirrors to hold the banding up. When I ratchet it tight at the back the banding wants to slide under. Also n these Yamahas when the wrap shrinks it raises up in the middle so I run a strap under I show how here 👇 SeaDoo Shrinkwrap ~ this is the way kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2SpnImDfrZkbMk

Just under the plastic caps in the back and don’t forget the 3 at the fuel cap

I’m getting too old for this sh!t 🤣

1 ~ It shouldn’t come pouring out, but could get messy. If you ran the ski and it didn’t leak from the cap the nut is probably fine. You can usually tell if the nut backs off when removing the cap. The bolt is hard to turn like it’s starting to seize in there 2 ~ If the water runs for too long without the motor running it will eventually fill the exhaust and spill into the engine. If the motor won’t turn over remove the spark plugs and pump the water out of the cylinders. If the motor runs check that the oil isn’t milky with water. If there’s water in the oil, change the oil and look in the service manual for boil off procedure

@@ccjetsports 1.- I turned on to run some antifreeze and move the water out and I did not see oil out around the filter cap, but I clear remember the filter cap was not fully close against the bottom even when screw was tied 2.- the water run for 5 minutes, but motor was running, my concern is not about water inside the exhaust is more about it was running 5 minutes out of water and I heard carbon seal or other things can get damaged due that. Thanks a lot for your answer and your time

Nice!! Always good to hear that a video helped 😊 I worked on a video today for a support bracket I made to prop up the Spark deck, should be posted tomorrow

I did check the coolant with a hydrometer and it tested fine. Also tested the wiring and sensor. I was expecting to find some gel/goo in the system because it had green antifreeze and it should have had red. But no gel and the coolant was good. I wasn’t expecting the thermostat to fix the problem either. I’ve never had a SeaDoo thermostat go bad on me out of hundreds that I’ve worked on.

@@ccjetsports good to hear you checked. Fyi, Scarab came with green xps coolant (2 year kind) for many years. Mine did too (165 as well). I just switched to the red/orange 5 year version for 2023. Head gasket was also possible, but not common on young engines like this.

I had one of those nuts back out on me yesterday! The bolt was a little hard to remove, felt like it was seized up a bit. Sure enough the nut was backed off.

Thanks!!🙏 I always use the Marine 360 fuel stabilizer too

@@ccjetsports Thank you! We appreciate that! Feel free to tag us in the future - we'd love to see what you are working on!

I get mine from Amazon Dr shrink 7mil 14’x128’ amzn.to/3DXk93j Seem Tape 4” amzn.to/3qEPsN9 Banding kit amzn.to/3s7xdjJ Shrink fast torch amzn.to/3DZD90P

They’re well built and reliable. I’ve had issues with the O2 sensors fouling out from the catalyst portion of the exhaust leaking. Besides that just typical SeaDoo maintenance stuff that gets pricey ~ supercharger, intercooler & throttle body Personally I’d buy a Yamaha over Scarab. Besides the other stuff I just mentioned I like how Yamaha has access to the driveshaft if you accidentally suck up a rope

That stinks, I haven’t had that happen. Maybe try programming a new key. I can shut mine off with Buds but start them with the start/stop switch

Where did you get your system?

@@ccjetsportsfrom PowerSports Diagnostics. I also have one I bought years ago from Scan World Systems which sold out and now doesn’t support or honor their “lifetime updates” 😒. I sure know how to pick them I guess. I was actually able to get one to start connected today but I had to disconnect the external power interface to get it to work.

I got mine from Matt @ Torx. I don’t have the external power interface so that’s probably why I haven’t run into that

You can adjust the cable by the end fittings. The one at the back nozzle is easier to get to. Loosen the locking nut then screw the fitting in or out to change the length of the cable.

There are end fittings on the steering cable that screw in or out to change the length of the cable

I've got a 2019 Yamaha SX195, this video made me a bit sad. We love our boat and take care of it like crazy. Well, I guess the owner made the correct choice for their needs and usage.

@@MichalLempicki Yamahas are great! but their jet pumps get locked up and are hard to get apart. I like the Solas all stainless wearings but the rule of thumb stainless to aluminum is <10% and when you add that much stainless it eats the aluminum faster

I hope I won't have to replace ours anytime soon. I do an inspection at the start of every season. Solas products are good, but if I'm going to need to replace it, I'll probably use OEM parts. @@entervanman

Thanks Alex!! Nice to hear the vids help 😊 I’m in MA and there’s only a couple JetSki techs besides the dealer in my area I get leads from Google search and word of mouth. I don’t do paid ads, content marketing (making videos) helps for sure Have any feedback on how I can make my videos here better?

When the one that goes in the aluminum part of the ibr motor gets stuck I use heat and vise grips. It chews up the sleeve so I keep new ones with me to replace it

Thanks so much I will try the heat and vise grips

Thanks!! It’s good to hear the videos are helping :)

I haven’t seen the gate get stuck from a rollover. I have seen it from weak battery, bad wiring or bad IBR module. Start by testing/charging the battery Here is the tool I use to test the battery amzn.to/44mkBmi

Same issue replaced battery and also this relay .. any other advice it could be(2020 spark) one question does the key have anything to do with it

Glad it helped!