Beautiful!! Brings back great memories and more to come!

I used to tan there nekked back in the day when the sun wasn't the enemy. Thanks for making this video. It's my new background while I'm working.

Awesome! I'm curious what date this was recorded on.

Awesome video. Thanks for uploading

time get my pry tools and alcohol. OK there's some rubber glued there so the trigger don't make much noise when pressed. Your rubber seems gone. Mine was there, you can remove it but you'd need to put something else there to soften the brow else it's too noisy.

thanks bro

Rest in peace, legend.

Same

Was getting annoyed as to why my left trigger kept sticking. Never knew it was this simple! Thank you!!!

Dunno how this controller is so widely regarded as good when they’ve had this significant problem for years and years.

2 years later this is still useful! Thanks

Thanks Rob. Rest in Peace

The glue is for the little pad that you didn't mention, which slips off and then you're left with glue.

RIP Rob 😔 🙏🏻 Pineapple 🤙🏼

너무이쁜곳이에요!!

Thanks for making this. Really appreciate it. Max Payne 3 bullet time is buttery smooth now.

Not same problem but I’m switch to keyboard and mouse my controllers always get problems after a while or out the box keyboard and mouse should last.

this was a great easy to follow video my glue spot was in the same area, a lil q-tip and rubbing alcohol did the trick thanks !

Bro thank you. Fixed my sticking triggers and I didn't have to break the Microsoft seal to fully disassemble

Thank you for the video i fixed mine with some q tips and 91% alcohol

I used a Qtip and isopropyl alcohol, it cleaned it right up

Other than the stock controller that came with the console. I Only use 3rd party premium controllers

Thanks for the video. I used Goo Gone and Q-tips. One to apply it to both contact surfaces and one to dry. Between this problem and the stick drift these are the worst controllers I've ever used!

This video was of no help, still cant fix my Xbox one controllers triggers from squeaking, guess im out another $20-30 thanks for nothing

I fixed mine but the little rubber piece keeps moving so the trigger hits the plastic but hey as long as it works

such a fail design, my all xbox controller had this issue and im tired of this

Thanks a lot 👍

Xbox is such a waste of money. You can get a good keyboard and mouse for half the price of this piece of junk. The games are cheaper and better. Never again

Thanks for the vid , mine has the same problem. Its the pad they added to dampen the sound of the trigger that is causing the problem. Guess the padding got worn out and the glue underneath is exposed. I just removed whats remaining of the padding and cleaned the glue with alcohol. Its fine now.

Has this issue on my left trigger, it was bothering me a bunch. I opened it up and I realized there are foam pads that are supposed to dampen the sound I guess. I decided to just remove both. I find the clacking sound much less pleasant than with the pads, but I'd much prefer a little bit of noise over the trigger sticking. Edit: I would like to replace them, but I haven't found where you can buy them or know what I should use instead. Ideally have both sound dampening and no sticking, but I supposed if I have to open up the controller again I wouldn't care too much since it's not difficult to remove the pads.

Is it safe to run the engine on this stand?

I have a rotor housing theory question for you: One of my own 12A rotaries had the typical rear-rotor lost-compression failures, ie: the engine was barely able to run, and only on the front rotor. Limped home thinking my apex seals had failed like last time, but inspection found all six seals intact and not stuck in their grooves. Teardown revealed that the rear rotor housing had exactly the catastrophic chrome flaking as that shown in the above video, with most of the chrome from the spark plug areas to and beyond the exhaust port missing. A little history on this engine: This car, a bone stock '85 RX7 GSL 12A was purchased used with about 100,000 miles on it. I replaced the bee hive oil cooler with an under-rad unit from a series 2 RX7, and installed a Richard Sohn-designed oil metering pump adapter with a gravity-fed 2-cycle oil reservoir, using a block-off plate at the OMP so that the system fed only 2-cycle oil from the reservoir rather than pulling in dirty 4-stroke oil from the sump. Talking to another rotary guru about the cause of the chrome flaking, he suggested that the minor flaking at the edges of the rear housing gave this 2-cycle oil (which mixed with the fuel in the 4-barrel carb fuel bowls) a place to work its way under the edges of the flaking chrome, causing scads of it to depart. Does this make sense as a contributing factor? Heat certainly played a part considering the location of the flaking, but the housing was not showing any of the expected warpage and coolant seal deterioration that I'd have expected from excessive heat. Thoughts?

Great video, Rob!

Excellent video. Thanks 😊

He sounds almost exactly like Scotty Kilmer

wtf? thats like showing how to remove a wheel ... take the appropriate socket and unscrew.. .. goes without saying, right tool for the right job .

more like potato racing

This was very helpful! I pressed in a stationary gear bearing for my RX-8 and was concerned about the kind of metal flakes that appeared around the rotor bearing in this video.

This might be a dumb question but say you have used housing that look pretty good .. deff usable is there anything you have to do to the surface to "prepare" it for a rebuild/to be used . or just put in the new seals and such as normal?

is the pilot bearing puller you used here different from a piston engine pilot bearing puller?

You don't need that adapter just bolt to the plate from the engine stand I'll fit right on...

Thx for the video...

Audio is very bad hard to understand

I have a pressure regulator out of my D361 in an old IH tractor and the piston has an 1/8 to 5/32 hole in the end of it! Ive been having low oil pressure on this tractor for a while and when its warm i cannot idle it or it drops to nothin. I have to have it at a fast idle to keep 15 to 20 lbs. 30 is the most it will do. I find that hold in the piston very odd.. I would think when the oil is hot it would all bypass even going to the filters. I understand 15-40 is thick but not when its hot! Im not sure what to do. I need the tractor like now! I cant find an image online to see if its the way its supposed to be. Id like to cover it with a shim or somethin but i dont want 100 psi! Lol it has holes on the side where it dumps when the piston moves but shit.. i cant see it budging that piston with a drilled hole in it that size!

Nice video and simple! You answered 2 questions I had in one go! Thanks!

This video looks like it was filmed in 1976.

What's the name off the last part !?

ohhh

thanks, it's useful

You like a pretty smart guy, I thought I would shoot this idea past you. I used to have a Suzuki motorcycle I also used to have a few rx-7s. I never came up with this idea in till just recently as a truck driver I became interested in the RX-9. What if the RX-motors didn't have side ports? What if the RX motor had the same size port as the exhaust port or slightly longer or taller just above the exhaust where the intake is now but at 10 or 2 o'clock depending on what side you look at. It would get a great deal more air than it does now. As the rotor pulls away it would suck in more air than the side port. Also a reed valve would be just inside the intake port to prevent any exhaust gas from going back through the intake port on the exhaust stroke of the rotor... It would be basically be like a two stroke motor in a rotary design instead of a piston design, the best of both worlds... I think it would work? Of course the that whole side of that motor would have to be redesigned, but think of the power. It could change it's fuel wastfulness problem...