If the carb is clean then you should just have to adjust the throttle stop. - The knob on the wire that you can turn in or out.

Thanks

Lol

The carb might have a different air filter but the inside will be the same.

Hope it helped!

I read about that mod. This thing has enough snap...I'm getting old! lol

An air leak can cause a cough/sneeze as well as make the motor race at idle. I would have to see a picture of the tube you are talking about. You can sometimes find the leak by spraying carb cleaner around the edge of the boot. It will seal the hole briefly and the idle will change. It might not hurt to do a thorough carb clean. Run a small wire (I use one from a BBQ brush) through the jets and the side holes in the brass tubes.Also blow compressed air through all the ports in the face and back of the carb (as you look inside it from either side).

@@HillbillyToolBox I cleaned the carb out really well, tbh it wasnt dirty except for a couple clogged jets which i did run a wire through and it didnt change the high idle. I ordered new carb boots so here's hoping thatll fix it!

I wish you luck!!

The guys here got a good laugh at that! That is sooooo true!

LOL

If you have no exhaust or after market exhaust that allows more flow, it can cause a lean condition too. Also, check the automatic decompression system. They can cause lean type issues too.

@@HillbillyToolBox thanks for the reply. The auto decompression system appears to be working; the weight on the exhaust camshaft moves with the spring so it looks like it's working. Thanls again.

That's why I make the videos! Lol

You're very welcome!

I appreciate that! I try to keep them short and direct.

I flip my ATV on its side and then I don't have to drain the oil.

It locks the flywheel/magneto rotor in place. If it is missing or it slips, the magnet will be out of time when it rotates and it won't run.

I can be tricky to get the adjustment just right from my own experience. It could also mean something in the shifting components is bent or not working correctly. Check this link to a chat group discussing that issue. www.hondaforeman.com/threads/is-my-clutch-bad.73798/

Thanks

I should have more in a couple months when I get through a bunch of my other projects. Thanks for watching!

For us English folks: hello i have a 300 klf bayou 2x4 the quad only starts with the choke without choke it cuts off directly it does back and forth like in your video what to do please My Answer: Vous devez nettoyer les gicleurs de votre carburateur. L'un d'entre eux est bouché et ne laisse pas passer le carburant, ce qui explique pourquoi le starter du carburateur fait fonctionner l'appareil. Démontez le carburateur et retirez le fond. Retirez les pièces à l'intérieur du laiton à l'aide d'un tournevis et utilisez un petit fil de fer et du nettoyant pour ouvrir tous les trous. Ne retirez pas le flotteur pour l'instant. Toutes les pièces retirées ont des trous droits, et certaines ont des trous sur les côtés. Regardez ma vidéo sur le nettoyage d'un carburateur Grizzly 300 et vous comprendrez. Je n'ai pas utilisé mon français depuis l'âge de 10 ans, j'ai donc utilisé un traducteur pour m'aider car mon vocabulaire à l'âge de 10 ans ne comprenait pas ces mots. Traduit avec DeepL.com (version gratuite) You need to clean the jets in your carburetor. One of them is plugged and not letting fuel in which is why the carburetor choke makes it run. Remove the carburetor and take the bottom off. Remove the pieces inside the brass with a screwdriver and use a small wire and cleaner to open all the holes. Do not remove the float at this time. All the removed pieces have holes straight through, and some have holes on the sides. Watch my video on cleaning a Grizzly 300 carb and you will understand. I haven't used my French since I was 10 so I used a translator to help since my vocabulary at 10 years old did not include these words.

@@HillbillyToolBox Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse j’avais une dernier question si vous aurais le document technique pour le 300 klf bayou et dernier chose quand je démarre mon quad on entend dans le moteur que sa tape comme si le piston taper dans les soupape et fait des gros retour dans l’échappement sa serais un réglage soupape ?

@@mehdio3463 For us English folks: Thank you very much for your answer I had one last question if you have the technical document for the 300 klf bayou and last thing when I start my quad I hear in the engine that it taps as if the piston hit in the valves and makes big return in the exhaust it would be a valve adjustment? My answer: Je n'ai pas le manuel de réparation mais je pense qu'il peut être acheté en ligne au format pdf. Le bruit de battement est probablement lié aux soupapes et/ou à une chaîne de distribution étirée. Il est très courant d'avoir une chaîne étirée qui affecte également les soupapes. I do not have the repair manual but I think it can be purchased online as a pdf. The tapping noise is likely related to the valves and / or a stretched timing chain. It is very common to have a stretched chain which also affects the valves.

@@HillbillyToolBox merci j’ai fait un réglage soupape depuis je nais plus les soupape qui tape et vous aviez raison ses bien a cause du carburateur qui ne démarre que avec le starter dans le carburateur le gicleur jet pilote à étais foire donc je dois changé le carburateur

@@mehdio3463 For us English folks: thank you i made a valve adjustment since i don't have anymore the valve that taps and you were right its because of the carburetor that only starts with the choke in the carburetor the jet pilot nozzle was screwed up so i have to change the carburetor My response: Sounds like you are making progress. Unless something is broken, you can usually rebuild by cleaning it thoroughly or if parts are needed you can buy a parts kit. Il semble que vous fassiez des progrès. À moins que quelque chose ne soit cassé, vous pouvez généralement le reconstruire en le nettoyant soigneusement ou, si des pièces sont nécessaires, vous pouvez acheter un kit de pièces détachées.

No. I just ran the tap through the existing hole. I recommend using a bolt with a small head for your oil bolt. otherwise you will struggle to install the bolt through the guard. This quad already had part of the guard removed by the previous owner who was trying to get better access ion an attempt to repair the leak.

Glad to hear it! I try to keep them short and to the point!

Glad you enjoyed it

What year is the machine? Does it have anything else stamped on the cog?

Any time!

The rectifier is the voltage regulator. On the Bayou, it is typically mounted on the side of the airbag (left side from sitting position). The CDI is mounted on the back of the quad and you can see it if you look straight in under the back of the quad. I think it is on the left as well. The rectifier will have ribs on it to help keep it cool. the CDI will be smooth.

Have you tried to unjam the gear while someone rocks the machine back and forth?

@@HillbillyToolBoxi have and mine is still stuck

If you are kicking it and it isn't sparking, does the neutral light flash when you kick (assuming a good bulb)? If it doesn't, then test your stator, kill switch, and ignition switch. If the neutral light flashes, then test the pulse/trigger coil and if the resistance is good and it is creating an AC pulse, then test the signal from the CDI to the coil. If there is no signal there, the CDI may have failed (or it has a bad ground or power wire). If there is a signal to the coil, then replace the spark plug, test the primary and secondary windings in the coil, and make sure the coil wire is good. Let me know how it goes.

my best guess is a voltage drop at the CDI when the starter motor starts drawing power. Thanks for watching.

Thanks 👍

My pleasure!

Sometimes...

I don't think it's the timing. It's definitely electrical. I'm wondering if the circuit that powers the CDI has a voltage drop when the starter initially loads up to start turning the motor. It seems that if the motor is cranking and still moving and I bump the starter it begins to spark. I bet if I used the pull cord it would start because there wouldn't be a voltage drop. I'm going to try that tomorrow. If that is the case, it could be a dirty connection at the CDI or maybe the ignition switch has a poor contact that doesn't allow the full amount of power to go through it.

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks! 😁

Good to hear!

The give away to me was the wear on the plastic casing of the pulse coil and the twist in the wires. I can see how it can happen. I often take pictures of things when I disassemble them so I have a reference point when I put it back together. Thanks for the comment.

I've got a Honda 300 that does that. If you bump the start button it will start but if you just hold it, it will crank and fire up just as you let go of the start button. Make sure all the battery connections are good and maybe unplug and plug in the CDI. I suspect there is a voltage drop to the CDI or the CDI is getting worn out and is overly sensitive to the voltage drop when you crank it. There are a lot of possible reasons, a weak stator might cause the issue when cranking or a bad battery connection, or a connection that sends power to the CDI. What I would try is jumping the solenoid posts to crank it and see if fires up like it should. If it does, try unplugging the key switch wires and bypass the key ignition at that location and see if the starter button works to make it fire up properly. It could be the key switch has a bad contact and the starter button is sucking up all the power that's available coming through the ignition switch leaving the CDI starving. In fact...I'm going to try that on my Honda when I get a chance.

Excellent. If you have any issues, feel free to ask and I'll see what I can do to get you to a solution.

@@HillbillyToolBox thank you very much. That's awesome and kind of you. I'm still working on a 02 Kawasaki bayou 300 4x4 with spark and no spark LoL. I feel like I've narrowed it down to the neutral safety switch. Maybe LoL. Thanks for the videos.

Still no spark?@@houstonsheltonbees814

@@HillbillyToolBox not yet brother. Thanks

25-10-12 on the back

"I believe!"

If you use the AC setting on a voltmeter, you can test the signal wire to the ignition coil. The voltage should jump up and down with each pulse from the cdi. If that is happening, good chance it is between the ignition coil and plug. I'm working on a machine right now that I have pulled the carb off at least 10 times. It idles great but acts like it is flooding if I hit the throttle; it sputters and puffs black smoke out of the carb. I think I figured out what it is. I'll know more today. Thanks for the comment and good luck!

@@HillbillyToolBox sounds like you're working on my bike LoL. I appreciate the info on the voltmeter. That really helps. Good health and God bless brother, thanks

I finally got it running smooth but it wouldn't power up and I couldn't go past 3rd gear. My running voltage was between 18.5 and 19V. I'm surprised it didn't blow the light bulbs.The CDI gets confused above 14.5 and can't calculate the timing advance or retard for the spark. I swapped in another rectifier and boom! It will wind out the motor now! I guess I know what my next video will be about. lol Merry Christmas to you and yours!

@@HillbillyToolBox thanks again man. I have a parts bike I'm switching parts from and the rectifier is next on the list. I'll be looking for the video brother 👍

The video is posted. Happy New Year!

You are right about that. It came out with no grease on it. I rubbed some grease into it before installing. I had to go back and watch carefully to make sure I did. At 8:23 on the video you can see the grease if you can pause the video at that spot. I was worried for a bit there! lol Good comment!

Maybe take off the new shift motor and manually shift back to neutral and reinstall the shift motor. Let me know what happens.

@@HillbillyToolBox yes sir thank that actually worked. It seemed to just be a little lost took it apart put it back together and it’s working. My original problem was definitely the shift motor as it was giving high resistance on the multimeter. New motor barely has any resistance works like a charm. I should add I replaced the angle sensor too just for some extra precaution.

Excellent! Glad you sorted it out. Electric shifts can be hard to troubleshoot.

And such a beautiful hand model you were too!

Glad to hear it! Remember...sawdust is man glitter!!!

There is a gap in the story that I was told from the seller. I think the guy before him tried to change the stator when it quit and put the pulse coil in wrong, gave up, and then sold it to the person that I bought it from (who bought it for parts).

@@HillbillyToolBox Ok, that makes sense, thanks. Thanks for answering. 👍

Thanks for watching!

You bet!

Glad it was helpful!