You could use lead melting and then sand it down it ez

You could weld a skeleton in the in side and make it so close the outside welds wont push back and skeleton will stop the worp and the patch is supported they make a air tool that make a over lap in metal so less worp

Why do you keep going over it weld long winded

Motor guard.... The inside of the filter roll as a plastic roll....must be removed before inserting it? Thank you

Doug and Dale enjoyed the recap of the last two years - I have binge watch all 38 episodes. 👍👍

never sand blast before welding, it impregnates the metal with contaminates.

I think you did a great job and it should be really strong! I need to do this to a 1962 Falcon Ranchero that I want to add some horsepower to. In high school circa 1981-82 I had one for a drag car running 11.80’s with no subframe connectors and it was starting to pull the front wheels up 1”-2” and we worried about the unibody flexing.

😂😮😢😅😊

Hanging anything on an I-joist other than a ceiling is just an accident waiting to happen as they are not engineered for the type of load you are adding. Ceilings are classed as dead loads, and a crane is classed as a live load - two different beasts with different impacts on the structure. They are not engineered for that purpose. They will delaminate sooner or later. Sure, I see your comments that all is well and SO FAR nothing bad has happened, but that is just shit luck as far as I am concerned. Its like going on in the ocean 5 miles in a canoe, and saying, what the hell , why should i worry, I've done it several time before and nothing bad has happened. IMO its very irresponsible of you to put such dangerous content on KZbin. I just hope that no one copies your poorly conceived ideas and gets injured or worse. It boggles my mind that you completely ignore and dismiss well meaning advice from people having much more knowledge than you on this topic. Do you also believe that earth is flat?

Is there a part number for that mounting bracket?

Good content, simple and direct! Well done! Keep it coming!!!

This is PERFECT! I’m stripping paint off a 1965 Frolic. I had been doing the Citrus Strip in 30 minute intervals, but it seems like overnight is the way to go. Thanks!

i've watched every mustang vid & moste of the beetle vids thanks for the entertainment & motivation.

I wouldn't run the second line use all the filter system if not your defeating the purpose

I’ve watched all the videos of 3rd stall since about part 13 of the mustang restoration and came over from Jo Daddy’s. Love all the great work and amazing friendships you two share. Looking forward to more great work and videos.

1972

I've watched all your episodes and that what I like to see on restorations of bugs.I'm also restoring a convertible,lot of work to get where you want.I enjoy watching your videos

I have watched every episode. I'm a fan of perpetual improvement projects. Favorite line from September 2022: "Maybe our goal should be not to use hot glue." I knew from then on that this would be a quality restoration.

12:50 "but... if youre going to do it.. you do it right!" I dont know why people spend all that time and energy taking part a car to restore it, but then decide to cut corners on the easiest things to fix/clean/replace. No matter what you're looking at.. whether it be a painting, a sculpture, a story, landscaping... it's ALWAYS the small details that separate a master from a novice.

Thank you for the star wars reference😂😂😂

08:17 a scungent tool? or scunchant? I couldnt find anything on google near those names.

Hey I have a 66 mustang and I need help with a few things would love some advise please let me know thank u

I checked this out, thinking I might need it, but ultimately did not. I applied a lot of penetrating lubricant to the bolts before starting the job, including shooting it through the little hole in the frame, and very gradually took out the bolts using a breaker bar, occasionally going in a bit, then out more.

Good job, i braced my convert before i did door alignment it work for me

I've got on question I've removed the body from pan and disconnected everything so can I pull the motor and transmission all as one part? I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. It's a 69

Just replace the whole bottom luggage

After watching several videos of shop air set up and proper air compressor usage/maintenance I’m sold on your method of cooling the air before going into the air tank. I remember growing up how much water our compressor would accumulate. And it was always rusty, so we knew our tank was dirty. I think the only two things I’m going to different is add a desiccant air filter coming out of the copper cooling lines prior to entering the tank (for just more added extraction) and my lines will be simple so using copper throughout wont be too cost prohibitive. Thanks for the great ideas.

That really sucks.

He then drags it out. 😂

Nice work! I'll be starting on the tray on my '71 Vert, but unfortunately, most of the horizontal surface is total trash. I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the entire piece...

NEW Subscriber!! Love the build and great video!!

Looks great, good job guys

You will remove more moisture if you put the regulator before you dryer. When the air drops pressure it expands and gets colder and can't hold as much moisture so that is when it starts to come out on its own so there will be less for the beads to have to suck out of the air. All systems for sale as a kit are set up that way for that reason.

Looks great. Cant wait for part 37

Should have pulled th convertible seatpan then put in the brace and then reinstalled

Is there anyone making an aluminum oil filter & cooler relocation plate for these yet? I can only find older models with it available.

Hey guys amazing restoration im also making a beetle convertible you guys are both awesome im really enjoying to see u how you restored this very fabulus history cars, yes im still watching u now with my hot coffee,thanks

What the name of the brand of the transmission cooler and did increase your mpg?

The way you had it first was backwards in the sense of thermal dynamics. Run the hot air into the top of the coil so the coil can cool down as the air goes downward. You don't want the hottest on the bottom so that heat given off rises to the pipes above it. It will cool better with hot on top and cooler on the bottom. Plus the air will push any condensed water toward the drain tee near the bottom and not carry the moisture up toward the top. I used to teach HVAC and both air and hydronic systems balancing along with thermal dynamics, so I have some experience in that field after 46 years.

nice, good shaping n patching, bro!

Great review!

I made 1 long ago and i took it past a 90 degrees and it reduces the chance of it tipping back over.

You did a great job exposing the challenges of most conventional Weld-Thru. Most W/T manufacturers use zinc or copper in their products for two reasons. 1. For conductivity. 2 They actually want it to be a sacrificial coating. They want moisture to attack the zinc or copper prior to rusting or corroding the substrate ie metal. The challenge is most of the product burns off around the weld joint during the welding process as seen in your video; Leving the weld joint itself unprotected and vulnerable to immediate corrosion. Once corrosion sets in on the weld joint it creeps out (creep corrosion) onto the rest of the joint eating away the zinc or copper W/T. To date the best product I have used is from Like90 ( part# 10011) . It is a thin film resin based product that contains a corrosion inhibitor. When welding this product the resin liquifies, as it cools it pulls back around the weld joint. To insure complete encapsulation of the weld joint they (Like90) recommends the use of a secondary product Like90 Dry Film ( # 10012). This product is again a resin based product that will wick into the weld joint fully encapsulating the weld joint and any burn back that may occurred. Because the weld joint and burn back are now protected as well as there are no sacrificial corrosive elements included you are left with a premium weld joint.

if you can find some at local scrap yard etc, get sole copper hot water baseboard sections as it has aluminum cooling fins on it. its a thinner copper though so care in handling , cutting it and soldering it is something to be aware of a guy told us .

Glad to see this system, especially the cooling arrangement between the pump head and the tank. Good call on the drop ear fittings and the 3/4" pex. You've convinced me to do the same. The leaking you experienced on the soft copper pipe is because compression ring fittings are not suitable for soft copper pipe - at any pressure. Flare fittings will work, no JB Weld required. If the JB fails going forward, you might want to consider swap out those compression ring fittings for flared fittings. No sweating required, no additional union couplings. You will need a flaring tool for the copper.

thanks!

hey man at 5:52 when discussing polarity for gas shield welding you said, "the wire that comes from the gun goes to the negative." doesn't the diagram show the work connected to the negative pole? and the gun is electrode positive?

Good video

Great mod! Thanks for producing it.Ilive in hot Texas and I am scared to death of these 62TE trannys overheating. Judging by the accent you live up in the middle-north where avg far lower temps up there. But just curious how many miles do you have on your 62TE and is it original? Thanks again!!!

you are the best ,asere . thank you 😂