My car did not have the cloth heatshield installed for some whatever reason. However I believe it runs down pretty far deep and has plastic 10mm clips. Yes I removed that bolt with a 10mm socket on a swivel socket & 3 inch extension. Kind of a PITA! Rest of them with a 10mm wrench.

The alternator I used was a used OEM 180 amp unit from a wreck yard. I used car-part.com to find it. The website just searches junkyards in your area. OEM Volvo alternators are made by Bosch. There are two options different options for alternators, a 150 amp unit, and a 180 amp unit. If the 150 amp unit is used in place of an 180 amp, it might explain why the alternator is failing prematurely, so just double check what part was installed in your vehicle. Have you or your mechanic double check your battery as well. Double check that the bolt is tight at 4:13. There is documentation that this bolt will back out and results in the alternator not spinning. Retighten with thread locker. Unfortunately I don't have a good answer on the difference of labor. It certainly doesn't take 5 hours to remove & replace the alternator. Your mechanic's labor of 1.4 hours sounds a lot more reasonable.

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I did put in a 180 amp this time from Oreily's, but still seems to be under 14 volts, it actually bounces around from low 13's to 14.1-4. The battery is brand new and is a AGM Everstart Platinum battery. Is it possible the ECM is not communicating correctly with the voltage meter on the alternator? Do the Bosh/Volvo alternators communicated better to the ECM?

Unfortunately I do not have the truck anymore, but if I recall correctly the relay is located around underneath the steering column on my 1992 Montero. There should be a relay panel around there.

Glad this was useful for you!

Double check for any exhaust leaks, as well as vacuum leaks. Did you replace both upstream & downstream sensors? There is a common vacuum leak for the PCV system you can check here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGG1q5l9mZJlhac

I'm glad you found this video helpful!

The electrical connector on the throttle body is a pinch clamp. If they're stuck, you can try to push the connector the opposite way from removing to free up any debris to remove the connector. Another way is to physically lift up the locking tab with a screwdriver while pulling down on the connector, which is what I did. The rubber pipe going to the throttle body is a worm gear clamp, which can be loosened with a 7mm socket/wrench. Twisting the rubber pipe should break the seal off the throttle body and should allow you to pull it off easily. Hope this helps!

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Sir, I can't begin to express my appreciation. I was able to remove the alternator. I could spin the pulley, but when I stopped it, the does not freewheel. Is this a sign of a defect?

@@Smokeycam1 It does sound like the alternator pulley is defective. When the decoupler pulley is stopped the alternator should be able to freewheel to compensate for change of engine RPMs.

When you clean the mating surface of the manifold, do you use soap or a solvent?

Also, do you ever re-use the silicone ring gaskets?

Thanks! I really appreciate it!

I do not have the torque specs for the alternator. I don't think its very high though, they just need to hold the alternator on. Sorry! I only could find the 7 bolts for the intake manifold. Which is 12.5 ft lbs. I would tighten them from the middle out.

Yes it’s the AP eastern unit off Rockauto.

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I'll check this one out.

Olá, não falo português. Usei o google tradutor para escrever isso. Não, você não precisa reprogramar nada depois de desconectar o terminal negativo da bateria. Desculpe por responder tarde

You can!

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I saw your video. And I think you deserve more views. If you SEO your videos properly then KZbin will automatically reach your videos to more people. Your video's SEO score is only 0 out of 100. Which is too low, and therefore your video doesn't get enough views that you deserve. If you want, I can explain it in more detail, do you want to know?

Thanks! I'm glad this you found this video helpful!

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Hi, I am your new subcriber.

I'm glad this video has been helpful to you! Yeah, the bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo is annoying.. it doesn't help when you're laying on your engine! As for the heatshield, I wasn't able to reuse the OEM heatshields on my aftermarket downpipe as it didn't have any way to mount it. The aftermarket one that I got did have some heatshields tacked onto it, however they weren't as thick as the OEM one. I did not feel any noticeable difference in heat inside the cabin. Since there is a lot of heatshield material on the car's body, I would say just retain as much OEM heatshield as possible. If it's too much of a hassle, skip it. It sure sounds like the catalytic converter you pulled out was bad, sounds like a lot of the material is starting to fall apart due to it plugging and eventually melting! The new catalytic converter will definitely help the turbo function. It was a pretty big difference when I replaced mine! Hopefully the replacement goes smoothly!

Hi, where did you get the new cat and what did you pay for it? I'm told mine is clogged!

@@erichsh58 I got mine from Rockauto. It was pretty much $500 delivered which is over half the factory unit. This was for a 2013 XC60 with the 3.0L turbo. Installation is time consuming and somewhat of a bitch, but doable. Oh, get the factory gaskets as the ones with the replacement cat suck. One last thing. If you do this, the replacement cat only has one mounting point for the cat heatshield where the factory has three. Ours therefore makes a rattling noise which I still need to fix. Good luck!

I'm afraid not. Sorry!

Thanks! I really appreciate it! I'll try to record more things I run into.

I'm really glad this video was helpful! Hopefully your replacement goes smoothly!

The original exhaust has studs pressed into the cat pipe. They're just like wheel studs pressed into the hub. I would imagine that you can hammer them out and replace them with new bolts & nuts. If the studs survive and don't snap while removing, you could try running a die to clean up threads and put new nuts on them. Up to you though. When I did do my catalytic converter replacement, I received new nuts & bolts and had no issues installing them, and the gasket sealed up good.

@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is exactly what i was wondering... Really appreciate the response (need to replace a blown gasket and the studs are there but not sure if i can reuse the existing threads or need to plan to replace the studs with bolts. Thanks!! 😃

The catalytic converter that was on the car didn't allow the turbo to spool up due to being plugged & creating a restriction. I think my acceleration before replacing was about the same time as yours. When I replaced it, the turbo spooled a lot quicker and pulled harder. A new cat should allow the exhaust system to 'flow' better. When you're replacing the cat, you can check the turbo for any play. The turbo impeller shouldn't move in and out of the compressor housing. Some side to side is okay. Yeah, removing this catalytic converter is definitely involved, and it doesn't help that it's cold now. I had to climb up and lay across the engine bay to access the bolts on the back of it. If you have a topside creeper, it would make it easier. To me, the biggest PITA was removing the prop shaft/driveshaft. However, I was told by another commenter that the Bevel gear & driveshaft doesn't have to be removed, and the exhaust could be twisted out. It took a weekend to remove & install. I did do this job on jack stands, but your car is a S60, which is lower than an XC60 of course.

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts those are great tips, thanks! Did you find it hard to remove the rusty hardware? I assume some penetrating oil is in order. Side note: my ignition coil blew up (literally) a couple months ago on my 4th cylinder. Ever since then, my car has not had the power it used to. I replaced all the coils and plugs, then the P0420 came along not long after. My buddy pointed out a few years back that my tail pipes are pretty sooty. With that in mind, lately I've been wondering if my air/fuel mixture has been off, and sending more junk into the cat than what is typical. I'll check the air filter again while I'm at.

It wasn't too difficult, the hardware that was rusty was the 6 nuts on the exhaust, none of them snapped and the hardware was reusable, but it certainly didn't come out smoothly. Those are the bolts that definitely need penetrating oil. Also, a lot of the bolts on the Volvo are aluminum. I do feel like an impact wrench does help with removing bolts that are seized in there. Removing them by hand could snap them, however I did not run into any issues with bolts snapping. The ignition coil failure would've caused excess fuel to go into the catalytic converter, damaging it by melting. As mentioned before it would cause a restriction for the exhaust, and therefore the turbo. I would recheck all the grounds for ignition coils as there's a bunch of them, and could cause a hard misfire or bad spark. Did you put ant seize on the spark plugs by any chance? It's not recommended as it could interfere with the ground from the plug to the head. Check your air filter and see if there's any obvious vacuum leaks for the intake, unmetered air would throw off your air fuel ratios. You can also try cleaning the MAF while you're there. Pinhole leaks would have to be found with a smoke machine, or spraying brake cleaner to see if the RPMs fluctuate.

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I did not use anti-seize on the plugs. I ordered a new cat from IPD, but before I go any further, I'm going to try some things someone else suggested I do, which is to try a smoke test through my vacuum line, and then check vacuum readings...and then go from there with maybe some other options. Regarding the cat from IPD, I'm wondering what to make of it since I see in your video some heat shields that I may or may not be able to reattach after the swap. The new cat assembly does not have any shields, and the cat itself is a little further down than the original cat (maybe a shield isn't needed because of this?).

@@SuperJ213 Yeah, that's what I'm up against. Wondering if a burned-out ignition coil led to the plugged cat on my car.

My Volvo had a CEL for P0420 Catalyst low efficiency bank 1. Car ran fine, (albeit I did replace the engine). I did not have a loud rattle during acceleration while the engine was warm. If it is rattling, I would point it more towards a loose heatshield, but it is very possible for the catalytic converter to start falling apart. If the cat has fallen apart, you can smack the exhaust to see if there's anything rattling in there. The catalytic converter that I removed was clogged, it had 198k miles. You could try running a cleaner through it to see if that will help. I thought the car performed fine, but after replacing the catalytic converter, the car's increased performance as noticeable. Turbo spooled faster and pulled harder. There are a couple things you could try doing before replacing the catalytic converter. - Replacing the oil trap / PCV diaphragm. Common problem on this engine. The rubber diaphragm tends to tear causing oil consumption via intake. Easy way to test this is pull the dipstick or oil cap to see if there's any excessive vacuum. I've replaced just the PCV diaphragm with success. Here's a good video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGG1q5l9mZJlhac - Replace spark plugs and air filter. - A basic test for the cat is to measure the temperature of the inlet & outlet of the catalytic converter with an IR thermometer. The outlet should be hotter than the inlet. Would be kind of cumbersome though. -If you have a capable scan tool, you can see the voltage out of the downstream O2. If the cat is working the voltage should not fluctuate. The cleaner the engine runs there's less things for the catalytic converter to 'filter' out. Hopefully something here helps you out. Thanks for commenting!

I got a P0420 code a few months back. Aside from my turbo not functioning well, if at all, my car runs OK. I ordered a new cat today and should have it in a week. I'm not sure if I'll install it myself or have a shop do it. If I had a lift, I would be all in.

@@SuperJ213 I'm also suspecting turbo issues. I have this load rattle once the engine is warm and I accelerate from low RPM while the transmission is still in a higher gear. If I step on it it will rev up and the noise almost goes away. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIuxlXSVibutiLcsi=9SsRo9BQ_VGHiTp_

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Thanks for the detailed response. The PCV diaphragm has been replaced already. I have recorded the noise in a way that the microphone was mounted inside the engine bay close to the exhaust manifold/turbo: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJmcZGl9mp2lqrs

It's possible that the rattle is coming from the turbo wastegate. There are two nuts that hold the wastegate closed. One could've possibly backed out causing the wastegate to rattle around. When you're in there make sure all the boost controller lines are in good shape. Not really sure why it would only do it when warm though.

Great to hear that it helped! Good to know that the driveshaft doesn’t have to removed in order for the exhaust to come out, will save a good bit of time.

How did you remove the lower stud near the engine between DP and turbo?

So for anyone wondering, I went in from the top driver’s side behind the engine with a long extension and wobble sockets. If you’re solo it’ll be a long night of blindly stabbing at it so having a second person under the car guiding it in will be crucial! You won’t remove this bolt rather back it out just enough to remove the DP. The hole on the DP is a slit so you actually use this to support it when putting the other 3 on. Hope this helps anyone.

Nope, in the middle of it right now, this is not fun at all!