Рад был помочь! Надеюсь, вам удастся быстро восстановить его работу. Спасибо за просмотр!

Yes. In fact, the car I'm showing here had a crack in the head, and it was leaking out of the exhaust side. The car ran fine otherwise, it was just putting out a substantial amount of white smoke.

Also where did you get the harness for the rear speakers? Thanks

Oh, that sub was the WORST part. I am dreading the day that I ever have to take it back out. Had to use my full body to get that thing up in the spot! I feel your pain, sir. I feel your pain. Hopefully you got it in there by now!

I purchased the rear speaker harness through Partzilla. The part number you need is 2415775 if you'd rather search for it elsewhere. Here's a direct link: www.partzilla.com/search?q=2415775&ui=typeahead

@@3DayWeekend update: I finally got the sub in. For people with new pro r’s the rear speaker wiring harness is already installed. Just check the back where the speakers go and you’ll see the speaker connectors stuffed back there

Thank you! We took it on our first trip last week, and we were able to bring all of the machines, our luggage, spare parts, and plenty of tools! (Video coming soon) It was 20 hours round-trip! The trailer performed perfectly. We ended up breaking a SXS while we were out there, so we had to use tools, and got the machine fixed up and back out on the trails! None of this would have been possible without this trailer! Thank you so much for watching!

I was wondering if that was going to end up being the solution.

Spoiler alert... I do briefly show the fix in an upcoming video, and you guessed it, welded a nut to the top of that leg! Had to find a ACME nut. They are pricey, but less expensive than replacing the entire landing gear!

@@3DayWeekend cool thing about rampover trailers is all the real estate under the ramps for tool boxes, water/fuel tanks etc...

Thank you! I am surprised at how many people have watched these videos, especially the head gasket one. That's a pretty big failure rate! I'm glad the videos are helping people.

Sorry to hear that. These engines.... easy to work on, but they are not very reliable. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

Yeah, that's a hard decision. The axles aren't ever really "tight" in the diff, unless the machine is parked in such a way that there is tension on the axles (around a turn or on a hill). But then again, it's hard to say how much play is too much play, and it is possible for the diff cups to be worn out as well. Either way, I hope it works out well for you! Thanks for watching!

We're really excited to take it on some more trips. This trailer has really expanded our horizons, and we're looking into new places for 2025! Not to mention, riding in just one vehicle with all your buddies is much better than each person taking their own vehicle!

Head bolts stretch when installed, so they are a one-time-use deal. There is a high probability that they will break if subjected to the torque specifications a second time. Hope that helps clarify!

Hey there! You'll be surprised to hear that the helix spring IS installed at that mark. In fact, I never took it out! The spring has no tension on it when it is out of the machine on this particular model. When you bolt it back on the shaft, that's when the spring is compressed. I believe the clutches were changed in 2016. Perhaps the 2014 is built differently?

No worries. Better safe than sorry! There is a ongoing debate on pre-filling the oil filters. I do it if I can, other filters are positioned so they can't be pre-filled. The idea is that it takes a few seconds for the oil pump to fill the filter, and during that time, you'll have no oil pressure. Obviously, no oil pressure is bad, so if you can take measures to reduce that time, it wouldn't hurt! So yes, you can just lube the ring and put it on, as most people and lube shops do. If you do pre-fill, that counts as part of your 7 quarts. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

I'm not sure which ones you're talking about. There is one line that goes back to the hydraulic tank, and a few that come from the pump. Those are the only ones that I can recall going back towards the engine. Earlier this year I took those lines apart. Perhaps I show it in that video? Let me know, I can always go out and look for you!

Possibly, but the old ones still have to come out, and that was the worst part! I haven't experimented with any aftermarket bushings for this particular machine, so I can't speak to their durability. The OEM ones lasted a while, and the replacements are still in there, so I'm satisfied. So far.......!

Definitely something to consider. I was looking at them, but for the number of times I have to do shims again (hopefully NEVER haha), I just got the ones I needed. Shim kits are pricey! Great suggestion though!

I downloaded the service manual. It is all outlined there. For some machines, I have to buy a digital copy (cheap from eBay or similar), but I was able to find a downloadable PDF for this one!

Thanks! Tyler has the worst luck with his machines! It's back in the barn, broken AGAIN!

I really wish that I wrote it down. It was a very large socket... 36mm perhaps? We just took the machine on a big trip and I wanted to bring the socket with my just in case, but I couldn't remember which one it was. Sorry about that!

Yes, inner diameter was .25. I believe the outer diameter was 3/8. It doesn't have to be perfect. A little heat on the hose will loosen it up if it's a little too tight. A little too big is fine too. There won't be any pressure on the hose - it just needs to transport the coolant down into your container. Hope that helps! Best of luck on your repairs!

@@3DayWeekend Turbo swap went great! Car is running fantastic! I do have a significant coolant leak tho. I'm curious if the 17mm banjo bolt you install at 16:00 has a washer/rubber on the top under the bolt head and the bottom bolt side. The one I installed came with 2 washers installed on top and I have a feeling that may be where my leak is and just need to move one washer to the front

If everything else is identical between the new and old sensors, and just the plug is different, then yes, you can re-use the old ones, no problem. If the sensors themselves are different (shape, length, diameter), then you'll probably need to send those bearings back and get different ones. It's a lot of work to install the bearings just to find out the sensors won't work, but you'll know right away if they won't - that ABS light will come on pretty quickly. Hope that helps!

@@3DayWeekend yep it does. Im trying one more set of new bearing assys then Im switchin the sensors. Thanks for takin the time out to reply..new subsciber here.

Yes, yes.... you're right. I've had quite a few people call me out for that little mispronunciation on another video. It's weird, everyone I've talked to up here in my little cluster of people call it a stah-tor, but I did some research, found that it was incorrect, and now I call it stay-tor. Of course, now I'm the odd one in this little region and people look at me funny, but I stand firm on on stay-tor being the correct pronunciation!

I try! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

But it gets COOOLD up north here! Had a friend whose grid heater failed, and he really had a hard time starting it in the colder weather. Had to pop the hood and use ether a bunch of times and finally replaced it. I'd rather just have the grid heater.

No, just the doors. The actuators were OK.

In my opinion, yes it does. I have not completed this job in the past without completely removing the exhaust manifold and turbo assembly. There was a commenter on here stating that he was able to do it without removing the turbo once, but his claim is unconfirmed. It just seems a little tight in there with the turbo in the way. If I had a rusted nut preventing that though, I would definitely give it a try! I'll cross my fingers for you that it works!

Even if they are different, they are very similar. Weigh the same, but slightly different housings. Maybe someone with a better ear that me can tell the difference, but I'm keeping my stocks as a spare in case one of these give up! If you do experiment with yours, let us know if you notice anything. I'm genuinely curious. Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekend I asked the dealer. The speakers and tweeters are the same he said.

Very lucky. I can't believe the cap was still in the engine bay! Seriously, we just got home from a 10-hour drive and there it was! Checking that cap is now on my pre-departure checklist. Thanks for watching!

Glad you are finding them helpful. Thanks for watching!

Good to know! I might venture out if this turbo ever fails, but I've blown this engine before so I'm a little timid.... Been trying to keep things stock since the bang heard around the world! (aka, piston 4 turning in its resignation) haha

I agree. Economical and pretty cheap/easy to maintain, but they are not without their issues! The failure rate of head gaskets is appalling! Almost a nice car. :-)

I'd love to get back into modding it, but..... I have blown up this engine in the past, and that was a hard lesson learned. This truck's primary purpose in life is recreation with the family - towing the 5th wheel camper or the wedge trailer with the toys on it to destinations around the US. When it blew up, we were on our way to a camping trip, and obviously that cancelled our entire trip, along with the 2 trips following it while I rebuilt the engine. Reliability is now my number one priority (for my family's sake), and I have returned everything in/on the engine to stock. I keep my eyes open for a truck to "play" with, but not this one. I may not be the fastest out there, but it has been very reliable! How's that for a boring answer. I'm disappointed in myself for having to write that! haha

Are there a lot of hot pots of water in the road where you live? haha j/k. Water impacting the engine would have me chasing an electrical issue of some kind. Would it be worth having someone idle the engine up high while someone else sprays water around the engine compartment? Perhaps you could narrow it down that way if the engine were to miss or bog when the water hit the bad spot. I'd pay special attention to the injector harness/plug area. Hopefully you're able to find it and get it up and running again! Best of luck to you!

Definitely! This one was so huge, I could hear it and never got that far! Later, off camera, I did pressurize it again and sprayed it down. I found one other clamp a little loose, but otherwise, it was all good! Thanks for watching and for the pointer!

That is just a pole barn. There's no insulation, no heat, and minimal lighting. I would LOVE to insulate it and get it heated some day and turn it into an actual workshop, but for now it's just a storage barn. I do all my real work in the garage. The barn does a great job at keeping the toys and vehicles out of the sun and the snow though!

Haha yes, always a favorite. The kids are onto my tricks and usually don't leave themselves open like that, but he let his guard down twice! Rest assured, they have done the same to me, especially if I'm on the ATV. That chase light is by Xprite. I've owned 2 of them on 2 different machines and have never had any issues. They are very bright! Here's the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HXX7ZSL Thank you so much for watching!

Thanks! We had a great time there. It is definitely on our list to go back!

Yes, you're right. Someone called me out for that once already. I did some research and learned that I have been pronouncing it wrong my whole life! I now find myself correcting others! :-) Thanks for watching!

I haven't had to replace a front one yet, and your comment made me go straight to the East Lake website to confirm! They do make one version for the front, but it doesn't match my part number. Rats! A quick search leads me to believe the only other option is OEM, and they are over $250 a piece (Rockymountainatv / Partzilla). Ouch!

@@3DayWeekend Yes the Part numbers you are seeing listed on these sites like East Lake are Euro Part Numbers or International. So it looks like Polaris Used a different set up for there domestic Units then they did for the International Units for what ever reason. These sites that have axles are not manufacture's but rebrands selling axles from over seas which explains why they have the International Part Numbers rather then the domestic. Are Part number 3675 was only used on 2017 570 SP, 2018 570 & 2019 570 Units and that would be on the Domestic Units. The international axles have a Longer Shaft with 20 Splines on them at the Out put side and the Domestic have a shorter shaft with 26 splines on them. I have found out that there are a few small shops around the country that make there Axles, how ever having a set 1 off made is going to far outprice the OEM axles. So if I find I'm braking OEM axles with my new set up, this is something I will look into at that time.

It did! It is still quiet to this day. I'm pretty sure the root cause was the bearings, but I wanted to replace it all just to be safe.

I did say during the Part 1 video the job can be done without completely removing the intake manifold from the engine compartment. I've always had to remove the exhaust manifold to get enough space though. I wanted to show the procedure as it is outlined in the service manual, which has you remove both completely. Hope that helps clarify!

@3DayWeekend totally get the service manual part. It does say that, but it's unnecessary. Also, there is space to remove the exhaust manifold as well.

​@3DayWeekend the torque sequence from Haynes manual shows a different pattern than what you showed in your video. I wish there was a way to upload that photo.

Great point! Yes, you should always verify the oil level before starting up a gas engine. I did fill mine to capacity before running it, but it may have been off-camera. Thanks for watching!

If it is REALLY BAD, yes, it could allow the caliper or ball joints to make contact with the wheel. If it is that bad, you should be able to jack up the wheel so it is just off the ground, and you'll be able to rock it it up/down or in/out by hand. Again, that would be a really bad bearing, and I would not drive it like that. It could damage your caliper, axle, or ball joints, or worse, come off the vehicle completely!

Thanks! That's a GM timing tool. Here's the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I was hoping they were the same part because sportsman diffs are plentiful, but no. They are different. I checked all the part numbers and every part is a little different. I asked around and found that they are a slightly different size, and the gearing is different as well. Bummer!

The part I'm talking about would only come into play with four wheel drive. Reverse/forward would be fine. The issue you're describing is likely inside the transmission. Perhaps a pawl is broken or a gear is stripped. It might also be worth checking the shifter and linkage. I would visually verify that when you move the shifter gear to gear, it is moving the bellcrank on the transmission gear to gear. Sometimes the shifter mechanism can strip out so the linkage won't move. Here's hoping it's something simple like that! Otherwise, you'll probably have to pull the transmission, split it, and look for broken gears or pawls....

@@3DayWeekend Thanks friend, I did check the shifter, has a little play in it but is moving the bellcrank. Looks like a crack open coming. But is the bike worth I'm asking myself?

Great pointer! Definitely a good idea to have them checked while it is at the machine shop. A good machine shop will know to check those as well. Fortunately mine were OK on this engine and it was just the rings/cylinders. Thanks for the comment and for watching!

Well, that's not good! If the pressure is good, then it's time to start looking at the clutch. Is it engaging? If not, then why? Sometimes it can be a bad pressure sensor, other times the clutch itself is bad. I will typically short the relay to manually kick it on. That will tell you if it's a sensor/computer issue, or if it is a clutch issue. If pressures are good and the clutch is spinning, the blend door may be stuck. Hopefully you're able to get that figured out!

Haha Oh, yes, that's a problem alright! Ended up being an expensive problem.... Tomorrow's video will show it being put back together and it runs nice and smooth now! Thanks for watching!