Glad it was helpful!

I just pulled the hose and let it drain. Nowadays, if I'm draining the coolant, I pull off the lower hose down by the oil dip stick and water pump. Pretty much all the coolant will come out if you pull it apart down there. Thanks for watching!

We forgot it! If you watch the later episodes, we realized our mistake and found a seal without a lip on it that can be installed with the case put together already. Good catch!

I fought the same thing for multiple days. I used the 15 piece extractor set from Harbor fright .I used a 3/16th drill to drill a shallow hole in the center of the plug. Then I used the according extractor after soaking it with penetrating oil for fifteen minutes it came straight out.

I did this after serverly stripping the plug, so if your isn't stripped that bad maybe try something else first.

@ I’ll give that a try

@@valonfleming507 it’s not CRAZY bad, I could likely get a 47 in there and maybe break it loose. The issue is how tight it is and how easy Torx bolts strip.

@@TheNumber1inuyasha have you soaked it with oil?

So far so good! The clutch is holding strong. I was a little worried about, but after romping on it hard in the dunes we feel pretty good about it now! That's a big, heavy machine it is pulling, and he had it floored most of the trip that day. Of all the issues we had with his machine, the clutch was not one of them!

He really likes the thick belt. It takes of smoother and is much quieter than his old one. He has run it up to full speed on the dunes and didn't really notice any change up there. Most of the driving we do around here is at lower speeds on rocky trails, and that is what the thick belt is supposed to be all about!

I ended up keeping them on for the summer and just rolled them down. That, along with venting the windshield, allow enough air circulation to keep me comfortable. Don't get me wrong, it was definitely warm, but I can't say it was much warmer than these machines are in the summer with no enclosure. I am still on the lookout for some take-off lower doors, but that's mostly just to save the wear and tear on the enclosure plastic and zippers. I do not envy you having to do this on a four door! These things were a pain to install, that's for sure! However, we did just go out for a snow ride and it was in the lower 20's. Everyone else had all of their winter gear on and were freezing. I had on a sweatshirt and had to shut the heat off at one point because it was too hot! People kept hopping in my machine to warm up when we stopped. Absolutely worth having, especially when accompanied with the heater! Thanks for commenting and for watching!

Thank you!

That one's installation will be a little different than the PRO XP. It's the same head unit, but the harness and bracket will be unique to that machine.

@ im going to try today. It seems like its the same process but idk. How long did u take to do it?

@@3DayWeekend luckily the manual comes with instructions for my xp4 turbo

Certified KZbin mechanic right here! haha

Thank you!

Yeah, not a project I wanted to do, but it will save a lot of money! I guess it was worth it!

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

I have always re-used the cam bolts. The service manual I was following did not say that they must be replaced. Several others have commented on them being torque-to-yield, but you have to loosen them and tighten them several times to set the timing. I've never had one of those bolts break or loosen, so if I have to do another one of these engines, I will be reusing the cam bolts. Hope that helps!

I'm not sure what you're referencing. Google translate said "after adjusting the belt", but at that time in the video, we're working on the crank shaft lock pin.

@3DayWeekend yea i made that note before i started working on my car, and its my first time doing this so im clueless. The note was meant to mean: "place the special tool after doing X"

No, fortunately for me, the connecting rod was fine. It's still running strong to this day!

This one just had the connector one on side that the hose screws into.

I'm willing to bet that the last two codes are a result of the first code - C102A. If I recall correctly, Patriots have a tone ring in the hubs. I'd probably replace the left rear wheel hub, and throw a new wheel speed sensor at it (if they are relatively cheap) just to be safe. Once that's changed, clear the codes and drive it again to see what codes come back. Hopefully it's just a tone ring and you're home free!

If you have blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, then it is quite possible you have bad rings. You could also have a bad turbo though. I'd do a compression test / leak down test first, then make a decision from there. You can also do a head gasket test, as that is a very common failure point in these engines. If the compression/leak-down test suggests an issue, then yes, you'll probably need to replace the piston rings. If compression/leak-down is good, then I'd be looking at the turbo first. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoy the content. We do work hard out here. Vehicle maintenance is a constant struggle and keeps us very busy, that's for sure! We are blessed to have awesome neighbors willing to share their land as part of our co-op riding group. Glad to have you with the channel!

You'll definitely need the tool. They aren't that much, and available on Amazon. A link is in the video description.

@ thanks

Thanks! Tomorrow's video shows the very first race. We already have ideas on how to make the track even better! I can't wait for spring to come back around so I can get the dozer back up there.

I thought so too, because polarity does matter with these. However, no matter which way I turned it, I could never get that one to light. A few months later, another one went out. I bought a second light kit, replaced those two, and it has been fine ever since. Seems that I just got a bad LED. All good now though! It has been a couple years now, and I'm still liking the blue. Thanks for watching!

@ I gotta do mine as well. Both the cluster and heater controls. Then I gotta read up on doing it to my 2nd gen. Always something!

I learned that trick from a self-proclaimed "old timer" mechanic and I've been using it ever since. Some people criticize me for it, but you can't argue with the final result - it doesn't leak! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I'm glad that you found it helpful. I try to keep the videos as short as possible without skipping a step!

Thank you! I lost a transmission once due to too much slack in the chain. This is definitely a regular-maintenance type of adjustment. Those machines had terrible drum brakes. I was constantly replacing them. Do yourself a HUGE favor, and keep that machine away from mud/water as much as possible. The brakes do not respond well to moisture of any kind. The brakes are pretty simple mechanically, so it shouldn't take much to free up that lever. There's a large o-ring around the housing. I'd make sure that it is in good shape to help keep moisture out of there! Other than that, those machines were great, very reliable, and the kids loved them. I hope he enjoys it as much as my kids did!

You're welcome. Thank you for watching!

Per my service manual, the sprocket bolts do not need to be replaced. I've never replaced them, and they run fine. However, there seems to be another service manual out there that says they do need to be replaced each time. Ultimately it's up to you, but again, I've never replaced them and I've never had one break. Great question! Thanks for watching!