Steve Peterson

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@urboyluke_ Күн бұрын

Just a question about the edit at around 3:19. If I'm correct, all that edit does it's ensure that the board is powered by the Arduino Nano instead of a 12V power supply, and isn't entirely necessary, correct? I ask because I have a 12V power supply and If I can just use that instead, I probably will

@stevesclocks Күн бұрын

All of my 3D printed clocks that users can download and print are expected to run on 5V USB power. The only access through the back of the case is for a USB cable. This provides a very low current to the stepper motor which is more than enough to run the clock. The CNC Shield V4 board can run on 12V. In fact, the original use case is for 12V power. You will need to skip the jumper wire edit that shorts Vmot with 5V Vcc, or else 12V will be applied to several 5V components.

@nicksantitoro 5 күн бұрын

Is there a reason your clocks use a pulley for the weight shell? It seems like a waste to have half the weight be “dead” weight hanging on the clock frame. A setup like a cuckoo clock or grandfather clock with a chain or string directly connecting to the weight seems much more efficient and uses all the weight to power the clock and none to hang on the frame.

@stevesclocks 5 күн бұрын

@nicksantitoro a pulley allows twice the runtime if you use twice as much weight. The dead string is not doing any work. It is not losing any energy either. All the energy gets transferred to the drum. The main reason I use a pulley is for weight balance. I like symmetry in a clock, and if the winding drum is centered, then the cord is off to one side. This would make the clock want to tilt on the wall. A pulley shifts the weight back to the center of the clock while also keeping the winding drum centered.

@AhmadKhadiri-Haz 17 күн бұрын

No way it's the most quiet clock ever

@stevesclocks 17 күн бұрын

It ticks like any mechanical clock with an escapement.

@AhmadKhadiri-Haz 16 күн бұрын

@@stevesclocks every time I see an 3d mechanical clock it make sound sometime

@WildmanTech 18 күн бұрын

Good to see the update!

@romcolahvac 18 күн бұрын

Hello, I have printed all parts of this clocks - SP1. I have all parts to buy and made on lathe. But I can't find a tube in Europe tube 1/8 about the length 2.15 in. Please advise whether this part could be used from a more modern clock. Maybe there is no other way than to buy the tube - would it be possible to send it, for example? Thank you very much for all the advice. best regards Roman

@stevesclocks 17 күн бұрын

You can substitute the tube with something close that is available in your country. 3mm thick wall brass tube should work. SP1 was the first clock I designed. It used readily available parts in my country. I never expected it to go international. Eventually, I redesigned it to be easier to build and with all metric components. The tubing and bushings have been eliminated. It is available at www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-small-8-day-clock-337387 for a nominal charge that may be less than you would pay for the one piece of tubing used in SP1.

@bjduncc 18 күн бұрын

cool update, keep it up!

@woodwaker1 18 күн бұрын

Steve, thanks for taking the time and effort to refresh these and release them for no extra charge to the original owners. Look good.

@stevesclocks 18 күн бұрын

Thanks. I used to cringe when anyone bought the older designs and I knew the newer designs would be so much easier to build. The new gear profiles appear to make these clocks my most reliable at the moment. I will add them to the easy build clocks next to see if 32 day mode is more stable.

@Old1Too 18 күн бұрын

Nice job on the updates, Steve. I have printed a few of your more recent clocks, and have found them to go together and work very nicely, once you get all the gears and arbors free enough. The Coup Perdu is so far my favorite, but I did reprint gears 4 and 5 to accept 3mm arbors as the 1.5mm seemed too small, given the weight they support. The clock is pretty accurate and makes a nice sound too. Thanks for all your hard work.

@stevesclocks 18 күн бұрын

Thanks. I wanted the older designs to have same easy to assemble frame style that my newer clocks use.

@annanishimiya7786 Ай бұрын

Myminifactory is acting up and doesn't load in. Others said the same. Maybe it would be better to upload them to other sites too.

@Beerbatter1962 Ай бұрын

I've been searching around for a clock model to 3D print and found this one. Wow, phenomenal work. Such a beautiful design. I just created an account with myminifactory and purchased this model. Looking forward to the project. On my way to Etsy to get the hardware pack. Thanks

@stevesclocks Ай бұрын

Thanks. Glad you like it. Enjoy your build.

@markvios29 Ай бұрын

Hey there Steve, I just built the small 8 day clock. I think if you have a good 3D printer a clock can turn out a little better than a laser cut wood clock. Here's a good question. If you use bearings on all the pivot points, will the clock have less friction?

@stevesclocks Ай бұрын

I agree that 3D printed gears should have less friction than laser cut wood. Friction would be reduced by adding bearings at all the pivot points. However, the gear tooth friction in my clocks is probably 10X higher than the pivot friction. The arbors have a small diameter with steel turning in a smooth PLA hole. The gear teeth engage at a larger diameter and will always have some amount of sliding friction. Completely eliminating pivot friction would only reduce the overall friction by around 10%. It is much easier to just increase the drive weight by 10% instead of adding bearings throughout the clock. A wooden gear clock with wood dowels as arbors will have a much higher pivot friction. It might see a much better benefit from additional bearings. The only places I use bearings in my clocks are where there is a moving weight. The pendulum arm has about 5-6 ounces of weight and is the fastest moving component in the clock. It gets small bearings with very low friction. The weight shell also needs bearings due to the heavy load being supported.

@obijuan- Ай бұрын

IMPRESSIVE VERY

@frederickwood9116 Ай бұрын

I’m enjoying the videos. Thanks. How long will a 3D clock last if running permanently? 4 of 5 years or longer!! What parts are expected to wear out first? The material and its quality used will influence that too. What do you recommend? Thanks again for sharing.

@stevesclocks Ай бұрын

My oldest clock has been running for over 5 years with no visible signs of wear. The only part that has been replaced is the winding key.

@frederickwood9116 Ай бұрын

Nice clocks. Thanks for sharing. Can a second weight be added to the system so that when one string runs out the second weight will start to run as the drive? It would allow the clocks to run longer and with a less sensitive arrangement of gears. Some sort of transition system would be needed to transfer drive over from one cog to another as the length of one string runs out. Possibly based on an additional very low gear mechanism that counts days. In this way after 15 days perhaps, the drive is transferred over to the second weight and extending the time to an additional 15 days. Thanks again for sharing.

@stevesclocks Ай бұрын

The trivial solution is to double the weight and reduce the diameter of the winding drum by 50%. This achieves the desired result without needing a complex mechanism to switch between multiple weights.

@frederickwood9116 Ай бұрын

@ I’m talking out of my hat here as I have not built let alone designed a clock. However I thought there was a constraint around loading of the mechanism and precision ease and also sensitivity to small environmental fluctuations like knocks. Thanks for the reply. One day I’ll get to this. Preferably with the kids too :-)

@show4200-d4m 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for these videos. Very helpful.

@Runescope 2 ай бұрын

Hey Steve. Love all these designs. If You're looking for a new challenge with clocks, something I've always wanted to see is a clock where the hour and minute hands move discretely from the second hand. That is, the minute hand doesn't tick to the next minute until the second hand reaches 12, and the hour hand doesn't tick to the next hour until the minute hand reaches 12. This way, if the time is 4:35:23, the hour hand is on the 4, not halfway between the 4 & 5, and the minute hand is on the 7, not halfway(ish) between the 7 & 8. I've done a bit of searching and I haven't been able to find one that works like this though clocks used to ALL work like this at one point and then just stopped being made that way for some reason.

@stevesclocks 2 ай бұрын

That sounds like an over-complicated way of doing something that has a trivial solution of using simple gears to move the hands. I do not think I have ever seen an analog clock operate the way you describe. The closest I can recall is the schoolroom clocks that were all synchronized to the master clock in the main office. An electromagnet would be energized once per minute to move the minute hand one step. The hour hand moved normally with a 12:1 ratio to the minute hand.

@Runescope 2 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks You're right, it IS an over complicated way to do it. And when I say "used to" I mean like a couple hundred years ago when clocks were first being made. You go to all the old city clocks in Europe that are still operating and when the minute and hour ticks over, you'll hear a REALLY loud CLUNK and the hands will move. :) I just thought it would be an interesting challenge for You.

@stevesclocks 2 ай бұрын

@@Runescope That is very interesting. I always assumed that a tower clock would be completely analog.

@Runescope 2 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks Oh no, they are! That's kind of my point. The process is all done through gearing, that's why I thought it would be a challenge for You to figure out how they used to do it.

@shaunmorrissey7313 3 ай бұрын

I Have built sp7, the pendulum swings, the second hand sweeps but the minute and hour hands aren't moving, any idea what the issue may be? It's OK, I think I got it, the clutch mechanism wasn't tight enough, Once I understood how it works I was able to trace the problem.

@stevesclocks 3 ай бұрын

Good to hear. I was just about to reply to check the friction clutch. The debug video at kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpa6aIKpn75grrM would also have some hints.

@shaunmorrissey7313 4 ай бұрын

once i have finished the sp7 I am buying the files for this puppy, It is beautiful.

@shaunmorrissey7313 4 ай бұрын

I am printing the parts for the sp7, all extra parts are orderd, I am using steampunk rainbow for the base and frame not sure about the gears yet. The accompanying manual is exemplary.

@stevesclocks 4 ай бұрын

I bet it will look great. You can post pictures on MyMiniFactory or the web site forum at www.stevesclocks.com/forum

@shaunmorrissey7313 4 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks Be assured I will, everybody needs to see just how amazing your clocks are. I love the fact that, while the clocks are your design, we can make them our own simply by using our favoutite filament. When I have finished this one I am going to purchase your moon phase clock. I love your designs.

@mindlessautomaton2.0 4 ай бұрын

Do you have a video for sp 13? And is that the easiest for my first attempt. I need to know what assembly parts I have to buy and where to get them? And the plans. I am so going to give this a shot. Do you think it can be printed on the flash forge adventurer 5m pro 220x220x220mm and what kind of filament? Thanks Steve. I want to build one for my mother for Christmas. They are all beautiful and elegant not really interested in the electric ones. Accept for the magnet one but simplicity first.

@stevesclocks 4 ай бұрын

SP13 is the easiest to build and should be very reliable. Any printer less than 5 years old is capable of printing my clocks as long as the build plate is large enough. 220x220 can print all of my clocks. You can find the assembly guide with instructions and parts list at www.stevesclocks.com/sp13

@mindlessautomaton2.0 4 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks thanks

@patiaditya 4 ай бұрын

Never thought that one good use of making a digital analog clock would be to make it quieter. 🫡

@stevesclocks 4 ай бұрын

I consider it to be a mechanical analog clock with digital accuracy. The mechanical portion makes all the noise and needs the smooth motion to make it quieter.

@nicksantitoro 5 ай бұрын

I tried to build the easy build clock a while back. It ran good for several months but then quit working. Maybe because that frame was petg and added too much friction with wear. I’m thinking about trying to build another one to see how that goes.

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

You may be able to easily get your old clock working again. In my experience, the most common fix is to clean the pendulum bearings again. Then check that all the gears still spin freely on their arbors. A tiny drop of lightweight oil on the arbors and lithium grease on the pinions may also help. For the easy build clock, make sure to use the "Rev 2" updated gears. It can still be downloaded from MyMiniFactory. This fix eliminates gear 3 pushing against the escapement.

@StarlancerAstro 5 ай бұрын

Those are all amazing! Now that I have a decent printer I have to make one of them

@TooManyHobbies786 5 ай бұрын

Just adding my thanks here as well--I built the moon clock and then electrified it (like his desk clocks)--it is perfect now!. Fantastic help in his forum!

@WildmanTech 5 ай бұрын

Looking good Steve!

@bompm 5 ай бұрын

Dear Steve This is a great video and great work you’ve done. I will definitely build one right away. Congratulations (from France :). Pierre

@warrenreif5369 5 ай бұрын

What an amazing dissertation on such great works! Only built one gravity/ pendulum clock so far; the crazy gear clock is next up (for my son). I've experimented with digital display clocks using real time, internally temperature controlled crystals and found they are amazingly accurate as you describe. Have been expanding my radio controlled clock knowledge with an idea that a crazy gear clock might be tied to the Fort Collins standard... Thanks for all you have done; from a retired EE.....

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

@warrenreif5369 Generic RTC modules are accurate to about a minute per month. Precision RTCs add voltage and temperature compensation for an accuracy of about a minute per year. They only cost about a dollar more. The only time the clock loses time is when it loses power. Synchronizing to a global reference time adds a lot of complexity. It needs to connect to the reference time, and it needs sensors to know where the hands are pointing so it can bring them back to position. I have considered an alternate solution of using the Arduino Nano nonvolatile memory of recording each second that the hands move. If power goes out, the algorithm only needs to know how many seconds the power was out. The clock could run fast until the hands catch up. If power was out for 11 or 23 hours, then the clock would run backwards for an hour. Of course, there is also a trivial solution of making sure power never goes out. A small USB battery can power the clock for a week or two. Plug the battery into a wall charger so it stays fully charged, then feed USB power from the battery to the clock.

@warrenreif5369 5 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks Thanks for the quick and highly informative feedback. I program C/C++ primarily in the Arduino world, so an atomic clock solution, similar to the real time clock implementation, seems doable. My thoughts on a "never let the power got out" solution was to mimic the computer back up approach where a battery is always providing power to the load (clock) and is charged at a safe, long term voltage when power is on.

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

@@warrenreif5369 Powering the clock with USB power makes it really easy keep power applied. The biggest challenge is finding a power bank that doesn't go to sleep. My 10,000mAh Anker power bank shuts off with only a single clock load but will run continuously if a few clocks are attached. A no-name 5,000mAh model will stay running for several days with one clock load.

@KrysSmietanski 5 ай бұрын

Good stuff Steve. Have built everything from about SP4 onwards and love the build challenge.

@woodwaker1 5 ай бұрын

Steve, a great display. I have built or tried to build many of these, some work very well, others it took a number of tries to get them going. I need to finish the moon phase clock, I'm at the point of getting the rods cut and ready to assemble - all of the parts are printed.

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

The moon phase clock assembles really easy. I am looking forward to seeing the extra touches added.

@woodwaker1 5 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks Thanks for the encouragement. Just had so many things going on and I keep pushing this back, plan on starting this week.

@incogburrito 5 ай бұрын

I'm a big fan of your clocks! Are you willing to make a clock design course for us?

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

I have been thinking about writing a book.

@HoffmanTactical 5 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks That would be an awesome book!

@СергейКошелев 5 ай бұрын

Отлично !

@jumadhaheri 5 ай бұрын

Love your work, Steve

@Mrelectric423 5 ай бұрын

I’m interested!!

@Shenandoahleather 5 ай бұрын

Hi Steve, the link to the controller does not work, has it moved? I love the design and would like to do the build. Thanks.

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

Which link is broken?

@tomsimmons4482 5 ай бұрын

Steve, I'm not sure why I never noticed this previously but I've used brass for both diameters of arbor, but you specify piano wire for the narrower. Is there an issue using brass for the narrower, should I look at changing to piano wire?

@stevesclocks 5 ай бұрын

Some brass works great. And some brass is too soft. It is not always specified what type you are getting. There is no need to change it if your clock is working. Other builders using brass might not be as lucky. I specify music wire because it always comes in a fully hardened state. It will always be the proper quality.

@vdataadministrator8922 6 ай бұрын

Amazing.

@jonathanpossebon9733 6 ай бұрын

Hello Steve, congratulations, great job, I will acquire the .STL files as soon as I receive my printer, would you have the dimensions of the screws, pins and bearings, a list of parts that I will have to buy in the market, for me to see if I can find them here in Brazil, thank you very much

@stevesclocks 6 ай бұрын

The assembly guide can be downloaded from www.stevesclocks.com/sp2 This is a relatively old design. My newer clocks have much smaller parts lists. Assembly guides for all of them can be found at the same web site.

@vdataadministrator8922 6 ай бұрын

Amazing work

@woodwaker1 6 ай бұрын

Thanks for doing this Steve! I put mine on the back burner, will need to get it started again.

@stevesclocks 6 ай бұрын

Its good to see you back. The moon phase clock is my new favorite. It has plenty of room to add customization.

@KrysSmietanski 6 ай бұрын

Thanks Steve

@BingePanda 6 ай бұрын

this is so awesome, keep up the good work gramps.

@SunilPatil-eg9cr 6 ай бұрын

I want to build this clock , how can i proceed

@stevesclocks 6 ай бұрын

It is a 3D printed design intended for each builder to print their own version. Links to the STL files are in the description. Any modern 3D printer with a large enough print surface is capable.

@dougstempchannel2119 6 ай бұрын

Where is the assembly manual, please?

@stevesclocks 6 ай бұрын

It can be downloaded at www.stevesclocks.com/sp13

@silverpc4611 6 ай бұрын

like the pennies in the pendulum. you could have used pennies in the weight. US pennies weigh 2.5 or 3.1 grams.

@stevesclocks 6 ай бұрын

Good point. Anything with a density near steel or copper can be used. Zinc in modern US pennies is around 7. Steel is 8. Copper is 9. Lead is 11, but barely worth the toxic risk. Sand only has a density around 2-3, so the weight shell would need to be huge to be functional. It would take 180 zinc pennies per pound, so just over $14 for 8lb of weight. This is probably cheaper than most other options.

@Buglbiker 7 ай бұрын

Helps a lot --- THX

@tomsimmons4482 7 ай бұрын

Steve I wonder if I might once more call upon your assistance in debugging the clock? As noted previously the gears were rather "wobbly" when running free, added to that where the face screws to the back supports started to spit as did where the string join to the front back support. The to top it all off the whole thing stopped after about 2 weeks and I couldn't get it to run for more than an hour since. I therefore having improved my printing knowledge and set up decided to reprint all the gears and the back (with a slight mod to create a peg or hook for the string to hook to on the bottom support and increased the infill where all the screws are). I included all the updates you have done, and the tolerance on the arbours etc is much much better. The issue I have is the drive (weight/pendulum/escapement) is running well, but hands are reluctant to move. I'm guess for half of the mechanism to running while the other half isn't it must be something to do with the friction section on the central arbour? The issue existed with the escapement removed so the mechanism was free running on the weight alone, it can be coaxed into running, but soon stops, might start on it's own for a while...

@stevesclocks 7 ай бұрын

It seems like there may be too much friction in the central arbor. The most common places are gear 6 binding where it passes through the dial, or the gear stack getting pinched by the frame. Check for a small amount of end shake on the central arbor. Trim the height of one of the spacers if needed. Frame pinch will steal a lot of the drive power. Then look at the escapement to decide where to debug next. If the escapement is sluggish, focus on gear train friction. If the escapement moves quickly with each tick, then double check the pendulum free swing test. Sometimes the bearings need a second cleaning. This clock has a lot of runtime options. 32 day mode will run with the largest drive weight, but the pendulum will have a very shallow amplitude. 8-10 day modes will be significantly easier to keep running, even with smaller drive weights.

@tomsimmons4482 7 ай бұрын

@@stevesclocks Thanks. I did wonder about the entire arbor being trapped, but it felt like these was some play. The pendulum is free swinging for over 10 mins. The free run test was smooth and the stopping the escapement and letting it run again it was quick and smooth at all points. I'm running the 10 day option currently. Is there an updated consolidated guide?

@stevesclocks 7 ай бұрын

@@tomsimmons4482 The latest assembly guides would be on my web site at www.stevesclocks.com/sp5

@christopherd.winnan8701 7 ай бұрын

Is there a version which only has the moon phase?

@interruptingPreempt 7 ай бұрын

This is really cool and totally deserves more love! What a neat clock!

@NikosKalogerinis 7 ай бұрын

Holy Mother of God this is a masterpiece! Our friend Steve made a miracle here!

@armandosilva6150 7 ай бұрын

Steve, im just a average consumer, I just would like to buy the clock, I don't wanna buy any 3d printer or mess with the assembly, like the most the people in the world, however I cannot find any link for purchase it, on other hand I'm an entrepreneur, bro you literally loss tons of money and community for don't selling the final product and just layer for 3D printer geeks , that its a very tiny community, Now I'm forced to buy a Chinese Pendulum Wall Clock in Amazon, thank you for your answer :)

@stevesclocks 7 ай бұрын

This design is completely optimized for 3D printing. I have considered selling a few fully assembled clocks. It would likely be a volume of 1-2 units per month. Selling it as STL files allows the design to reach hundreds of users. There are plenty of wooden gear clocks available from other designers if you want to avoid buying a Chinese pendulum wall clock from Amazon. :)

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