thank you very much for your video, I managed to get the starter out of my 04 seadoo speedster boat with 4 tec engine, I ordered a cheap one from Amazon for $60, dealer wants $320cad.

Hi Thanks for the video , can you tell me how well tye G flex stcuk to the smc hull ? I have to do a similar repair on a GP 1800

Dude....can't watch....too much jibber jabber and not getting to the repair

Thanks for posting, gave me the confidence to try and it was way easier than I expected. 2016 GTI 130 SE. I reached down, took pics first with my phone, then did it all by feel from the front port side, not totally to the side- my arm wouldn't fit in the side. I reached it with my reverse torx #8, took those two out, then where the positive cable attached to the starter. Then jiggled and pulled the starter for a few minutes and it came out fine. New one went in easier than I thought also! disconnecting the ground wire from the block was harder, they used some kind of thread locker or something and it was super tight, used a standard 3/8 socket driver and #17 metric socket. Cable was like new, no problem. Replaced the starter relay on the back of the fusebox/charger mount right behind the battery also, and the solenoid inside the fuse box, runs like new now!

Absolute crap hulls. While they are lighter, it isn’t that different overall. Kawasaki uses a true fiberglass hull that’s thick and heavy. Yamaha and SeaDoo spec their PWCs as a dry weight, whereas Kawasaki Specs it as a wet weight. The gap between them is about 100 pounds(depending on model) and you get a heavy duty hull. Yamaha is finally figuring it out, and on some of their models are going back to SMC.

Wau...too much talking.. please,do that work and stop the bla,bla

🇦🇺👍 2006 FXHO Yamaha.

Good video. I have two questions for you: 1) What fiberglass cloth are you using to build up the thickness. 2) The Yamaha hull repair manual describes laying up pieces of cloth from largest to smallest. I see you are going smallest to largest. Is either method acceptable?

🎉

Wouldn’t touch one of these newer machines with a 10 foot barge pole . nano crap ruined the jetski industry . Nobody is touching them. Nobody wants anything to do with them absolute crap

Wow, such a great video and to the point. Great job💪💪💪💯💯🍺🍺

I gave up waiting for him to get to the point

Thanks man!

I have the same thing. Do you have a part number for the pick up

What is the 2 epoxy buckets called??? The 2nd 1 you applied. 1 to 1 ratio

Can we get a list of materials to use?

Hey man I've been watching all your nano xcel repairs I live up in toronto Canada and I must say your work is flawless and hardly anyone up here knows how to repair a nano xcel what state are located ? Good work man you get a sub

I have a 2006 seadoo gtx and the starter won’t budge. It’s a 1503 4 tec and it just won’t budge to come out. Any advice?

very, very helpful info. Thank you !!!

1999 gti seadoo wontpullout all 3 bolts and exhaust systems require off but it wo t budge

Can you sand gflex. Like did you sand it smooth after it cured.

Blahblahblah

I don’t see how you could put enough batteries in a boat to make it viable

Show more, talk less.

Спасибо бро!

Tom: a true craftsman on the job. I like how you blended the repair so that It looks like there was no damage to the boat. Good work.

you talk way too much!

Do you have a link to the epoxy you used?

Thanks brother. Good info!

Thanks! - great info, and it gave me enough info that I was confident I could tackle this. My GTX 4tec is a 2004 - it has the battery in the engine compartment (in front of engine) and has the Electronic Module mounted on the left side of the pwc next to the battery. I removed both of these and that gave me decent access, not sure I could have done it without removing those. Removing the electronic module support bracket was probably the most difficult part, the front outside mounting bolt is hard to reach but it can be done (and I'm sure if I did it again it would be much easier). I also pulled the hose from the front bottom of the exhaust manifold. Surprisingly with all that stuff out of the way, access and alignment for the Starter positive terminal and the mounting bolts was not bad at all (even though it was blind). It did take some work to get the starter all the way in, but it got there. Thanks again!

👌👌👌👌👌👌👏👏👏👏👏👏

Can you sand and buff the the Gelcote international to make it shine? If so what grit would you use and what polishing compouds would you use? Thank you!

Great video. I would like to have seen the video on the interior backing layer you place for strength. Just saying as an old G Flex user...

Question, I can get the new starter in all the way to the 2nd o ring and then it seems like its hitting the bendix or something and i can't get it in any further. Thoughts? 3:45

Zero repair done! Worthless video.

I have a 2007 GTI I'm about to do this on. Just put in a new battery, fuses are good, starter solenoid tests good, start button and DESS post past resistance test. When I press start, I can hear the solenoid clicking but the starter does nothing. Earlier this spring it was more difficult to start at times but would still work, then the last few times I tried it, it would engage very weak for just a split sec before stopping (almost like when you have something stuck in the prop). At the time figured it was time for a new battery since the battery was over 6 years old but now I'm thinking the starter was going. I got busy this summer so I'm just now working on it, figured a new battery would do the trick but now I believe it's the starter itself since I've tested everything else. Now it doesn't even try to do anything, just sits there. There's even 12 volts getting to the starter when I press start. Is there anything else I should test before replacing the starter? Thanks for making this video!!

I totally agree lake. There’s an old junk getting towed every weekend.

so, when I pulled the old starter off, there was no gear on it!! I guess I need to pull the motor and take off the timing cover and hunt for it and the clip??

Thanks for the informative video. I enjoy all the details you talk about. Screw the other people that are looking for a short concise video

Verbal diarrhoea - just get on with it!

The fuel demand valve is an Attwood 99IFDV001, $99 at the dealer but was $69 on Ebay. The Harris dealer would need to order the factory pick up assembly, but didn't get their price. Has your fuel pick up solution worked out in practice? I may try it with some 5/8 fuel line.

Where in the world to find a replacement valve. Pulled the unit out exactly per your instructions. My tube is crazed, but functional and has no cracks yet-may replace with your method. That valve on top isn't functioning well. Allows air into the fuel suction line during operation and I need to replace it, but cannot find one on line anywhere.

This is exactly the info I needed to work on the fuel system on my Harris 24 pontoon. Thank you!

after watching this video I'm definitely pulling the engine. Or cutting an access panel in the side of my seadoo.

Thanks, this is what I was looking for.

Thanks for taking the time to create this video. What methods do you use to get out basic scuffs?

Bought a tank without the relief valve. This is the first ive seen in all the searching on what it is. Now to find the part. Thank you

Why wont the starter line up with the torx bolt holes makes no sense

Oh my god worst video I’ve ever watched, insanely frustrating, STOP talking and do the job!!!!

I acquired a 2003 gtx 4 tec and they already removed the starter and lost the bolts. Any chance you know where I can find the right bolts?