You could be getting bubbles on the output of the pump due to cavitation. If the pump is operating too fast, low pressure areas can form right behind the impeller blades. IPA has a low vapor pressure point and even minor low pressure areas behind the impeller could cause the IPA to vaporize (aka cavitation), resulting in bubbles on the output of the pump. Try slowing down the pump and/or increase the diameter of the inlet tubing. If it's too small, it may not be capable of providing enough flow for the pump, resulting low pressure areas within the impeller. Take this with a grain of salt because this is just based off of my understanding of cavitation in general. I'm a big space and rocket nerd and cavitation is a frequent issue with the gas turbines that pump the rocket fuel into the main combustion chamber. What you're experiencing sounds similar. Also, what kind of pump is that? Is it just a basic drill driven impeller pump? If so, I hope that drill is brushless. A brushed DC motor wood be an ideal igniter for vaporized alcohol.

I felt like the guy in the back seat when it started playing lol

I felt like the guy in the back seat when it started playing lol

Whats ur opinion on the wash and Cure 3 plus? Is it worth the money or is homemade better?

I am so grateful for this. I have 4 printers. 3 FDM. It has opened doors to many hobbies. Now I am needing to learn how to do THIS to mold articulated action figure parts. I want to give toys to kids for Christmas. Poor kids.

Hey there, that was indeed informative. There are many updates on 3d printers and materials. Could you make a new video about printing 3d molds?

See Salt Strong video on Swivel vs Tie on for spoons.

Once the split ring is started, put the spoon on it next to the swivel. One turn of the ring puts both on at once.

Looking at the cover pic. Don't mean to sound critical, but... I think you're doing it backwards. Did you throw the rod out in the water?

Interesting stuff. Could you put a link to the Insta page of the guy you spoke to? Thanks.

you mentioned nothing about paying federal excise tax for fishing lure sales

This is a very cool design, but having the hooks on the back of the weak 3d printed joint could break with a small fish.

I would buy this

How many lures can do molds? I mean, how many pours of silicone will a Siraya Tech Sculpt mold take? Will its resource be exhausted?

This is pretty interesting. Subscribed.

Thanks for the help

Hi. When im making the injection hole, i cant seem to get the hole to NOT cut away all of my bait. Any suggestions?

wouldn't it make sense to wash the model first to remove all resin, then repaint the resin where you want that shiny part and hand cure it before full cure of model? curious if that would offer more control of the "filled in" spaces like the tail part.

Like your work, but it is "height" not "heigth"

Dude you need to release this I need this in my life 😂

Thanks for this upload, it will save prototypes. Have you ever used microballoons in your resin when printing?

Yes hé did 😂😂

Bro all he wanted was a hug he totally didn’t want to eat you

*CLICK BAIT!!!*

Brilliant video, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us 👍

I’d love an STL for personal only use!

Adress please if is in hiuston

nice very handy info, but fusion is a mind bender program to get a grasp of

Any chance these will be available!? Excited for the video

You should have a swivel between the hook and spoon if the fish spins it can't leverage the lure to get off

That’s what we do👍😎

Hey bro I make my lures out or resin 3d printing should have a look been catching fish for around a year and a half now so much fun

I get freaking excited when I catch a big Warmouth lol and if you ever get the chance to catch one where you can see it attack they are just like bass they straight ambush. I love these things.

Top is cnc

Top

Awesome video,,,I always tried to figure this out

Happy to learn that I’m not the only one who loses 12 pounders 🤭🤭

Something else you could do to have a more uniform air pocket to the resin body is duplicate the body layer and scale it down using the same plane to fit inside the body. You would just need to take the bulk out of the form. Just a thought! The scale function would also let you make small and consistent size changes based of percent of size change. Cool project!

Awesome video man!!! So cool!!

The resin slowly gasses off internally, adding internal air pressure until the print breaks. That's why they often appear as single big cracks; it just finds the path of least resistance.

You put the fishing companies out of business.

Franko has helped me work through the calculations to compute for buoyancy of wooden lures. I've since developed a spreadsheet to do the heavy calculations for me, which has been working well.

Air pockets inside 3d printed lures certainly do work. My glidebait I've been working on for 2 years now is just that, a hollow bodied bait. This would have saved me some time on prototypes, but doing the old fashioned way of trial and error helped me learn a lot with ballasting and tuning. Caught like 30 fish on one glide including a 4.5lb and a 5lb bass. Can't wait to finalize the lure this year and show the world what's possible. Killing me not to share each catch lol.

Dude your freaking amazing 😮

That’s impressive I have long nights and days ahead of me 😂😂😂😂😂 I’m soaking up all this free game 😎

Those look great I can’t wait to start my journey doing 3D lure printing

Dude you are great at this I know you went through the mistakes and made successful molds kudos to you I just woke up one day and decided I wanted to CNC my molds using the HDPE plastic to learn before I decide to upgrade to aluminum but watching your videos I might have to dig out my 3D printer 😂 I just have to reeducate myself on fusion 360 But overall cause I’m ranting 😂 your doing a great job also I just came across your channel I’m subscribing definitely and taking plenty notes THANK YOU 🙏🏾

As for filling the holes: instead of a torche and inhaling melted plastic fumes: you could use acetone and plexiglass. Cut up some spare plexiglass scrap and pour in just enough acetone to cover it. The acetone will totally dissolve the plexiglass and leave behind a sticky liquid. The viscosity of that liquid depends on the ratio of plexiglass to acetone. This sticky liquid is essentially a plastic cement that will leave behind nothing but plastic when the acetone evaporates away: allowing you to do chemical plastic welding. You can get much stronger and tighter bonds, especially if the plastic you're bonding to is also dissolvable in acetone. There's commercial products that is exactly this mixture. But it's easy enough to diy. I discovered it when I was a broke college student making some fun art projects with plexiglass.

Such a great attitude Bill!

really enjoying your videos on plastic injection molding. Trying to learn and get into this and it really helps :)