I noticed you didn't install the metal tube that feeds oil down to the front bearing. Is that not needed, or did i miss something? Thanks for the incredibly detailed video.
@maladroitmechanic3 ай бұрын
@robertfanning2351 As I understand it, not all cases had these tubes. In fact, I have never opened a case that has one. If anyone has more information, please comment.
@robertfanning23513 ай бұрын
The tube runs from the front bearing to a hole in the case that leads to the low range unit. It attaches to a half round sheet metal collar. I believe the unit i have is pretty old, it only has a breather cap on emergency shifter cover.
@mainstreetcamden7 ай бұрын
This whole 5 part series was super helpful! I have a 1976 J10 with a loose chain. Through the aid of your videos I have rebuilt my Quadratrac. Your videos are very thorough, informative and educational! You should do this for a living! Kudos! Thank you, Sir!
@maladroitmechanic7 ай бұрын
Glad you found the videos useful! It would be nice to make videos for a living, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Thanks for watching.
@joekacko14138 ай бұрын
What is the torque specs for the case half bolts
@maladroitmechanic8 ай бұрын
20 ft-lbs for 3/8-16 bolts. 10 ft-lb for 5/16-18 bolts.
@joekacko14138 ай бұрын
Great job on the series btw very helpful and explained really well and if I would of kept watching tell the end I wouldn't have had that question lol
@maladroitmechanic8 ай бұрын
Glad you found the vids useful, thanks
@roberttrujillo-s8w9 ай бұрын
Great video's I do have a problem with my chain has 48 links and it is to loose so I found another good morse chain 48 links put it on still loose both the chain sprockets have 48 teeth I talked with Ryan at BJ's when I ordered my rebuild parts they have 2 chains one with the standard 48 link and one with 46 link for 16% over drive would you know where this over drive is located and how many teeth should the standard chain sprockets have thank you
@maladroitmechanic9 ай бұрын
Thanks! The MileMarker part-time conversion kit came in 2 options, normal or overdrive. The kit replaces the QT differential with a solid sprocket. The normal sprocket is the same diameter as the differential and has the same number of teeth, 48 or 49(don't remember exactly). The overdrive sprocket has a smaller diameter and less teeth, 41 I think. So, of you have an overdrive sprocket, it should be very obvious. It sounds like you have a non-overdrive sprocket or stock differential. I need more information to speculate on your loose chain. You can send pics to [email protected] if you like.
@roberttrujillo-s8w9 ай бұрын
@@maladroitmechanic thank you I will take some pictures the jeep is the original all wheel drive that you
@bjsoffroad9 ай бұрын
Love the videos, and thanks for the links!
@maladroitmechanic9 ай бұрын
Thanks for the comment and thanks for all BJs does to keep QTs on the road.
@ThomasACahan9 ай бұрын
Great video! 😊 Well done and Very appreciated 🙂
@maladroitmechanic9 ай бұрын
Glad you found it useful!
@WesLyon-k4i10 ай бұрын
We who are working on these rare units have great appreciation for your time and information.These don’t get much coverage and you have done an awesome job with the video and digging up what we need.Can’t thank you enough.
@maladroitmechanic10 ай бұрын
@user-fo2lh4ps1y glad you found the information useful. Thanks for watching. MM
@SKOOZUL Жыл бұрын
Great video! I wished I found this earlier
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@roberttrujillo-s8w Жыл бұрын
great video's I have been having a problem with my 1339 and that is when climbing and under a load I get a load banging sound like banging with a hammer and then the reduction unit pops into neutral I had the same problem with my other transfer case even when I switch on the e-drive any advice as to what may be causing this problem
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Are you certain that the bang happens before it goes into neutral? Shifting to neutral under load probably makes a loud bang.
@roberttrujillo-s8w Жыл бұрын
yes I shift into low range on flat ground and then start to climb at the steepest part when the front wheels seem to break traction on the rocky surface it starts banging the shift lever pops into neutral I have to coast down to a flat spot turn the jeep off shift back into high and go on up the hill I still get a bang in high but if I hold the gas just right I was able to make it up the hill @@maladroitmechanic
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
@@roberttrujillo-s8w I would first check the low range shift linkage. It should not have any tension on it in Hi or Low range because the detent ball holds it in gear. I wonder if you have worn engine and transmission mounts. This could allow excessive torque movement under load which could pull the shift lever.
@roberttrujillo-s8w Жыл бұрын
I have new engine mounts I will check the transmission I checked the linkage everything is good there I also adjusted the trnny linkage everything is good there it starts to bang when one of the front wheels looses traction so I stopped on a slight slope in low range give it some gas and it started banging so I stopped and went up in high the old transfer case started to bang a lot it was worn out lot of metal in the fluid so I picked this one up at the jeep wrecker ran it for a month and changed the fluid it was clean mean while I will check the transmission mounts thank you @@maladroitmechanic
@roberttrujillo-s8w Жыл бұрын
motor mounts and transmission mounts are in good shape as well as the transfer case stabilizer they were out in new when the shop installed the transfer case
@cowboyonaboat Жыл бұрын
Best how-to video that I've seen in a looong time. Thank you.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Wow, thanks!
@dannysorden8310 Жыл бұрын
I have a question. I have 2 of these. The manual says to put a quart in the reduction. Does that oil mix with the transfer case oil at all or is it a separate unit?
@cowboyonaboat Жыл бұрын
I asked this same question on the IFSJA forum. Waiting on conformation from the FSJ community. I believe the low-range reduction unit fills to a certain level, then overflows into the transfer case.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
There are 2 holes in the case where the low range attaches so the fluid can pass back and forth between the main case and the low range unit. I think the only reason you need to add a pint to the low range is that the main case fill port would overflow if you try to add it there. I suspect you could add the entire amount of fluid through only the low range fill port but I have not confirmed that.
@gregwagner32 Жыл бұрын
Greatly informative videos! I was searching for additional info on spider gears and retaining shaft in the limited slip part of the BW1339 transfer case. Is there any way to contact you? Than you in advance!
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
[email protected] You may also want to look around at JeepForum.com. There is a fella there from New Zealand that recently had a new shaft machined and case hardened. I hope he continues to post updates on how well that part works.
@mikejones5535 Жыл бұрын
Bjsoffroad now offers the Annular Output Shaft Bearings for $75 each. Great series man! Extremely detailed and professional! Wish i had these videos last year!
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
I will show one of the bearings from BJs whenever I have time for another video. It is also a sleeved bearing. For some reason it does not have a shield on one side. Glad you enjoyed the series.
@MrPherron Жыл бұрын
Good job on the videos, - Where did you get the Belleville spring washers?
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
If you are referring to the ones inside the differential, those are the original factory springs.
@MrPherron Жыл бұрын
@@maladroitmechanic yes those are the ones, when I reassembled the diff, it did not have any spring left in it the hub sat down flush with the outer gear. Any idea where I can get a set?
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
@@MrPherron About your only option is to find the springs or a complete differential from a junkyard unless you want to try to have them manufactured.
@ericpierron3994 Жыл бұрын
I'm not finding your link the the vacuum actuator retaining spring. For some reason, it was the only part not in my transfer case.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Thanks for pointing this out. I need to update the parts list. It is difficult to find exact replacement springs but I identified replacements that are similar. The short vacuum actuator spring is probably the most common missing part from the QTs. The replacement is almost identical to the original except the ends are not ground flat which also makes it slightly longer. I use a file or sandpaper to flatten the ends and the length is then very close to the original. Since you do not have the original to compare, the new spring is 0.38" long and the original is around 0.35". The spring would probably work just fine without grinding the ends flat but it is easy to do. Here is the link. www.thespringstore.com/pc035-188-6500-sst-0380-c-n-in.html
@ericpierron3994 Жыл бұрын
Shame that they have a $40 minimum on orders. I wonder if a spring is actually necessary for the retainer, or if a solid pin of sorts could be put in its place? I'm already changing a few things ....part time kit, vacuum delete and cable shift on low range.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Yes, that is unfortunate. Certainly, there are other ways to retain the actuator. I have seen a set screw in place of the spring. If you want, email your address and I'll mail a spring to you.
@flywiseman Жыл бұрын
I am looking at a CJ7 with this transfer case. Is there any concern that if it ever breaks i wont be able to find parts?
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Yes, this is a concern with anything that has been out of production for many years unless the aftermarket carries the torch.
@ericpierron3994 Жыл бұрын
Great job with the whole series! Thank you
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
If you are replacing the large bearing in the tailhousing adapter, read the first post in this thread. This information has not made it into a video yet. www.jeepforum.com/threads/maladroit-rebuilds-a-quadratrac.4469284/
@ericpierron3994 Жыл бұрын
That is a helpful bit of info. Thanks!
@jm-ve8ry Жыл бұрын
" you don't need to remove the yokes to split the case" Exactly what I was looking for, thank you.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
You are welcome!
@speedober Жыл бұрын
Great videos thanks. Not easy keeping these old Jeeps on the road and trail but 100% worth the effort. I see you are like me, if it's a bolt that rusts swap it out for stainless steel.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
I do have a thing for SS. My CJ has all stainless hardware except some of the larger than 1/2" Grade 8 bolts in the engine, steering, and suspension.
@lifetimeofwork Жыл бұрын
Incredibly helpful for someone clueless with TCs. THANK YOU for the thorough video.
@maladroitmechanic Жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@Tony-zp1wi2 жыл бұрын
Mr. Maladroit THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! You bet there are humanoids out there that will benefit from your time, knowledge, effort and research. I am one of those humanoids. Your series of videos are extremely informative and entertaining. I will be doing a complete rebuild of my Borg Warner 1339 and adding the Mile Marker 4x2 kit. I was worried about finding the unobtainium bearings but no more. I live in El Paso, Texas and I have a source for parts in Chaparral, New Mexico (A Little 4x4). Not a plug. He is my honey hole for classic jeep parts but I know he doesn't have everything I need and that was my main concern until I stumbled upon your videos. My build is a 1976 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 401/Th400, 95% original one owner beauty. Motor and tranny are done and next is the t case. I sincerely appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work and hope to see more in the future. Good day sir.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
Good luck with the build Tony and thank you for the kind comments. I have an update video in the works, but until then, be sure to check the OD of the snap-ring in the large Advanced Adapter bearing. It may be larger that the original and cause some problems, but you can re-use the old snap-ring. Also, I put a few of the custom sleeved output shaft bearings on ebay if you need those. www.ebay.com/itm/304759394548?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PXaXMlwuQfi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@No-ee3mb2 жыл бұрын
Great job. I just pulled my 1305 today to inspect. Bought the low range to add after rebuilding. Keep up the videos.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
Good luck with the rebuild. Let us know how it goes.
@roberteve2922 жыл бұрын
Is the output shaft from the turbo 400 longer or different depending on if there is a 1305 vs 1339. I was hoping to replace my 1339 in the truck with a 1305 until i rebuild the 1339.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
The TH400 output shaft is the same length for both the 1305 & 1339. If you watch Part 1 I try to show that the drive hub on the 1305 and the planetary gear in the 1339 mount in the same location with the same snap ring. The TH400 shaft engages the drive hub and planetary to the same depth.
@batupload2 жыл бұрын
@@maladroitmechanic thx look forward to part 5.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
Me too batupload. I really want to finish this rebuild so I can swap it into the CJ7 and find out why the original case is complaining.
@batupload2 жыл бұрын
@@maladroitmechanic hoping to see installation of locking snap rings (dual) on both sides of the bearing on the limited slip side. It was a little tricky removing ( made a curved prybar out of a 10 “ nail on the grinder to get the deep one out to get at it at a good angle. . It seems like a tight fit to compress it back in. Haven't really tried yet but appears to be a squeeze. Will you be working on the t400 transmission as well.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
@batupload The rings are thicker than most which makes them difficult. I show how I install them in Part 5 but there is probably a better way. Hoping to upload that vid tomorrow.
@roberteve2922 жыл бұрын
Great timing, just took mine apart. All cleaned up and read to assemble so will watch all your videos before. Am doing the 4x2 kit and new chain/seals. I am doing a 1305 but my Honcho has a 1339 which i will swap. I will do the original after a swap. My case didnt have the o ring gasket and i am not sure the vintage of the 1305. The 1339 is in a 1979 so will see next year if it has the rubber o ring.
@maladroitmechanic2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment! I now have the output shaft bearings that I have been waiting for so the final assembly video is coming soon. A Honcho build would be so cool....maybe that is my next project.
@jm-ve8ry Жыл бұрын
Any intertest in selling your 1339? I have a 79' wagoneer.
@roberteve292 Жыл бұрын
@@jm-ve8ry sorry, but that is the original for my J10. Havent even put the 1305 into it to see if it works with the the part time kit in it. There should be some around as people seem to want to get rid of them .