After watching closely it’s maybe the connection (the splines) between the pinion gear and the driveshaft? I can see there is a large nut that fastens the driveshaft to the pinion but you can’t really see if they move at different speeds or not.

Yeah when all the moons align and everything is favorable a miracle may happen son. And it would be diving. But this girl is not that good off road. It seems somebody swapped out the Quadra Drive diffs for some open end diffs. And I am not sure but I think the rear diff is about to blow to kingdom come. I guess when you drive like I do something has to give at some time. Lucky we have a parts WJ out the back huh.

Not a job to be ignored. When they fail completely you could lose a wheel. Mine was banging and jerking the Jeep around driving. At least you have a idea of what is involved now. This was my first time doing a jeep axle but the next one will be easier as I now what I am doing.

I am here to offer advice.

Thanks buddy much appreciated.

No they have similar flow rate as factory and nothing a ECM reset cannot deal with. If I had installed injectors with a very different flow rate to factory than yes I would need to.

Thanks for subscribing.

@@BuiltByRik ❤️ you welcome!

Your welcome. Thanks for subscribing.

Howdy partner. Any parts in particular you are interested in? After the build I was going to make a list of all the parts I used available to subscribers. I have all the part numbers but not sorted out yet. But if there is one or two parts in particular I am happy to look them up for you. Thanks for subscribing. Regards Rik

@@BuiltByRik no sir, no parts in particular, I just kinda wanted to see your build sheet, because no one in the states builds these cool little small blocks, which is suprising I know considering they’re super popular engines to turbo for sand dune racing over here. But I more wanted to build out the internals and then worry about induction you know what I mean? But yeah nah, you don’t gotta look anything up for me brother, just post a video of your parts list one day! I’m sure me and many Americans alike would love a true build sheet. Especially when everyone just builds the 5.2 and 5.9 .

@@matthewsmith471 Ok will do. I did start with a HO block because the HO has a forged crank shaft compared to the standard cast crank. Internals have been a long intensive search. For example the rods I am using are from a Chevy small block with some minor machining to make them fit. The pistons are custom forged pistons. A lot of the manual conversion are Gen 3 Hemi parts. But yes after the build I will make my parts list public. Regards Rik

@@BuiltByRik thanks Rik! Will be looking forward to it!

The early HO engines did not have twin plugs. Only the later models after 04 i believe had twin spark plugs. I am rebuilding a early HO single plug engine now. How do I know it is a HO? It has HO cast onto the heads and it has factory domed floating pistons and a forged crankshaft. If you still do not believe me I can get you the engine number and you can search it. Rik

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYvTmWWmiKeqfqs At 27:00 minutes check the domed pistons. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJq4o6yMlptsis0 At 6:46 minutes check on the head under alternator for embossed HO. On the other side too but harder to see.

Mines hydr. Lifters so different

@@TrainHer They all are hydraulic This is a performance upgrade.

@BuiltByRik so if I changed lifters and same noise . I don't get it because it's clearly in the head . I wouldn't waist one minute I'd it was a lower knock but it's a HIGH TING and I wrote that for a different video . I know mine ain't turning . If I hurt myself adjusting, I can't understand how can you self adjust?I don't get it.I said I and get too tight which I'm feeling for tight.They felt loose before I ran it for a bit Although I checked the all at once spot . Sadly , i'm selling it up 3 hundred I know it's others fixable

The guy said it lost all oil after I bought an was pulling cover off So I pulled the dipstick out and it looked like it was had too much if anything I have to change almost every freaking word So if words look stupid I just didn't change them government Trump it thinks truck is Trump. The third AI machines wouldn't let me on to.They got me on a machine thing.Check it watching me anyway

You're apple that. But I guess you could apple it too If it was low on oil would it knock like the tingen But I'll point down the bottom of the hill tomorrow and check, but I can't see it.Yeah , it's a on a steep hill down hill

After inspecting the track bar I noted that it was fine. Thanks for watching.

Yes you are probably right. Like I said first time is always the hardest. Good practice for when I upgrade the project Jeep.

@@BuiltByRik yes it is.but I done mine and it was alote easier to do .

@@kevinclevenger8741 Did your front axle bushes line up with the upper control arms?

@@BuiltByRik I put iron rock off road joints in my axle.and yes they did

Yep that is why I used the extra tec screws to secure them. I am still using them but have replaced the steel mesh on the shelves with plywood. Regards Rik

If these were rusted out I would just weld something up from sheet metal or pipe the same size.

In this case it has a heavy duty tow bar that also bolts through the tank guard. So it was a bit more involved. I was also in a hurry. If you patch it nicely I don't see a problem with doing it myself. I guess I am going to do a tank tuck soon in anyway so I did not give it a lot of thought. My son's WJ had a hole cut and he needed access to the pump when he was off road and it came in handy to him not having to remove the tank in the bush. Most vehicles come with a factory fuel pump access but not the WJ for some reason? I just did what the engineers forgot to install. I am surprised they do not make a nice kit for this? Thanks for following the channel. Regards Rik

@@BuiltByRikMy Mercedes has the fuel tank under the rear seat and the engineers were thoughtful enough to put an access port on the floor under the seat so you can change a fuel pump without dropping the entire tank. 👍

That's ok I am going to cut out the wheel well and install a 75 litre triple pump fuel cell. I will need that for the E85 and twin turbo setup. But cutting the wheel well like that is quite a common thing to do. You just cover the hole with a slightly larger plate and screw it in place. www.youtube.com/@BuiltByRik/community

I am glad it is not my daily vehicle. Thanks for comment.

Much appreciated . Thanks for following the channel.

Yeah me too. It could have been a LOT worse.

Yeah I knew this but it is what attracted me to the build. Kind of crazy I like doing things the hard way lol. I am putting in all new valves and valve seats and valve springs. Still working with the cam company we are getting closer to solving the binding problem. The seats only have a 3 thou interference from factory but need at least a 5 thou interference fit. I have hardened steel sprockets with roller chains so they should be fine. I am going to run a external oil pump because I am not a big fan of the pump design. I have been planing this build for a long time so I know what things are a problem and how to solve them. I have the HO block with forged crank and will order the scat rods and forged pistons next week. Thanks for the feedback.

@@BuiltByRik I went to a 2.02 I and 1.60 E vales on custom made valve seats with bronze guides on the 16 plugs heads. I also looked into the a dry sump system but I used my jeep for long desert/dune trails so I opted not to go that route. I'm running a custom crank (base on the 5.5 platform) Carrillo rods and currently -19cc dished Diamond Pistons. I get 0 lag with a single 78mm billet turbonetics turbo and 3500 Circle D TC on the 4l80E

With the solid lifters did you run a stock cam? Stock hydraulic profiles are hard on solid valve trains. My cams are ground with solid profiles they have a much more gradual lobe.

@@BuiltByRik negative. solid custom turbo cams. I replaced them all with a set of trick flow hydraulic lifters with shims to correct the geometry/gap and I haven't had any issues since.

@@MandosTuning I ran solids on my first build with custom cams and comp cams valve springs for about 30k klm never had a problem. So a no brainer for me to do it again. But if I run into problems easy enough to change.

HO is a precursor to the SRT. It stands for High Output.

Hello and thanks for subscribing. I have a facebook page by the same name. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100086781586412

I will be using shorty headers that face forward for the turbo's.

@kevinclevenger8741 Yes, it's why I do these things the gratification when it all comes together. I was blessed with abilities to do these things. I thought people may think my excitement was fake, but it was not. I spent so much time researching and measuring it is so good when it all comes together. Pilot bearing is next. It's very important to get right. Regards Rik

I am not able to at this time sorry mate. I am not set up to and just don't have time. Thanks for subscribing though. It is not hard to do you can see how on my clips. If you need advice I am here to help if you need. Regards Rik

@rootbeernineteen135 Solids mate. If you machine the base you end up in the ports as you can clearly in the picture.

We did sort that out in the end of the clip but where is it written. I could find no official record of it.

I already emailed them and sending some cams over to regrind tomorrow.

@@BuiltByRik that's so great .Iam watching and taking notes.because I would love to build this motor for my wj

Do as I did just send them a email with what you would like to do. I was planning to do a comparison when the cams are installed. I will measure cam v valve movement. If it is 1.85 that would be wild. Maybe too wild? I looked at the factory workshop manual and cannot find the ratio. Maybe I will check sooner than later. Regards Rik

Also I should recommend using solid lifters they work really well with even a HO camshaft. The problem with grinding cams for this engine is the ECM. My first build a N/A the ECM could not cope with the new camshafts. You do a ECM reset and it will run lumpy but after driving the ECM compensates and will dumb it down. This is why I am installing a stand alone engine management system. The stock ECM does not like mods.

@@BuiltByRik yes, a friend and I have been in the early phases of designing an adjustable set of cam gears for this motor. The majority of complexity lies in keeping the tone ring in alignment as JTEC relies on cam/crank signal to distribute spark.

@@rootbeernineteen135 Gears? wow I'd like that on mine. No idea how you would work that? But thank you for the rocker ratio update. A big thank you. I will need to return the cams as they do not work with a 1.0 rocker ratio. Wow no wonder my first camshaft ran so well so powerful that the timing chain could not cope. That was also ground with a 1.0 rocker ratio and lift was almost double. I am amazed it lasted this long LOL. I filmed checking the ratio as I could not find it online anywhere. I ran into problems but you will see that in the next clip. Regards Rik

They are a one off grind. I doubt they will ever be available as a off the shelf part. These are custom cut cams made to order for my project. If you wanted some you would have to ask them like I did. Give them your build details and send them your camshafts to grind. I am grateful to Crow Cams they did this for me. Thanks for the comment. Rik

I'm in no hurry as I have a lot to do. Manual conversion + Twin turbo install + Building a forged engine + Stand alone engine management system install. But I appreciate your following my build.

@@BuiltByRik don't worry I have been fallowing you for long time

@@kevinclevenger8741 Then a double thank you. Rik