This is just a gantry router table with a 30" x 20" travel on the X and Y, and people typically use these for wood and plastic. But it works pretty well on aluminum. So there is no flood coolant. The air is to clear the chips so they won't build up in the grooves, and I think there may be some level of cooling from the air as well. Sometimes I'll stand there and shoot some WD-40 at it.

Yeah, it’s not going to appeal to everyone. Freedom from tuning vs. the need to learn this new way to interact with the guitar and the added expense. The other benefit is improved intonation, if that is a factor for you.

No idea. Mysteries of the KZbin algorithm.

This video was created strictly as a routing guide for installers. There may be more resources on the Evertune site that explain installation.

Not sure. It looks like the Ibanez has a pretty big hole in the guitar body, so it might require gluing in wood blocks that the Evertune faceplate would not be able to cover. Anything is possible with a good shop, but this might be hard. You should reach out to Evertune directly.

When you set up near / on the bend stop for bending you still have Evertune protection from the string going flat, since going flat means moving away from the bend stop deeper into the sweet spot. The actual distance is tiny and not really noticeable, but technically it does mean an imperceptible delay when bending. I suggest you look for some other Evertune videos that demo this to make this more clear. Hard to explain in words!

The G style retrofit is much harder than F for sure. It's much easier to manufacture a new guitar with Evertune from the start, which a number of OEM's do.

Thanks!

Yes! Keep in mind this video is 10 years old and was meant as an instruction video for professionals before there were OEM guitars available with Evertune.

It's now 10 years later and they have a new template design that allows you to easily remove the wood with a chain saw.

I don't recall, but there is detailed installation info here: www.evertune.com/resources/instructions_drawings_and_CAD_for_bridge_installation.php that will tell you how thick a guitar has to be for various configurations. Plus dimensioned drawings and CAD files.

Generally speaking, an F model will just fit in a stock Strat with a surface mounted rear plate, and a G model will require a riser plate under the rear plate if the guitar is thinner than 1-3/4" which I think might happen on SG's. The difference between F and G models is the space between the strings and the body of the guitar. G models have a larger space, such as used in tune-a-matic bridges.

Interesting. I ask because you could only go so deep until you bit the cavities I where the pickups are installed!

@@joeoneill9098 In the F model, the wood is almost completely gone there. If you don't have a pickguard there is only a thin strip of wood between the bridge pocket and the pickup pocket. The bottom of the neck pickup nearly hits the Evertune modules. It is a very tight fit.

Just some dude who visited the booth. Could be a pro, could be just a regular guy. It's amazing how many incredible guitar players are out there...

Exactly my thoughts

You're both weak and I shame you for it. I'm off to ruin my guitar. 🤪

You're not alone lol

Yeah…… no way

It will prevent the note from going flat, which is the typical problem. This is, I think, due to a combination of actually stretching the strings, and also pulling a bit of string across the nut, and then that bit of string does not fully retract back past the nut, leaving a bit of slack behind. Where you might get in trouble is if you were in a hot environment when you set it up carefully on the bend stops and then moved to a cold environment- the string tries to get shorter as it cools, and if the bend stop prevents this, it will go sharp.

It's sad how people avoid new stuff and are stuck in the past. This thing is just so useful in live situations and studio. Real professional guitar techs won't argue about that. Maybe not worth it, if you are playing at home with your line6 spider 15w amp, but when temperature and humidity varies from place to place in gigging situations, it's just a no brainer really. Saves alot of time in studio situations also because you don't have to waste time tuning the thing after every take. Also alot better when you can set the bridge for rhythm takes so when pressing or hitting the string harder won't make it go sharp. Most people didn't even learn or try how the thing works before commenting and most of those guys play only strats and les pauls. Cmon it's 2019 not 1960.