Add 2.5 quarts, then bring it up to temp and add fluid until it starts to drain out of the fill hole.

I have Bilstein 5100s on the 4th groove (1.55"?) up front, and Ironman Off-road 2" medium springs in the rear.

@@WildRiverCamping how do you like this set up ? Like the 5100? Don’t know if I should buy that or 6112 don’t really off toad too much but wondering if to go all in within my means lol

Yes, measure as much fluid coming out as you can. Pour what's still in the pan in the measuring container. Add what you took out. Go through the warm up procedure and top off fluid or drain as needed.

@@WildRiverCamping Thank you.

Ok, Good to see the post is showing now. Not sure what that was about. But I have been keeping copies of my posts via screen capture to show proof of posting and proof of the posts not showing up. Now they are showing up. It is interesting that this is showing using my main KZbin channel log in but not my login when I switch to my other channel login. When Im in onegreenev it shows, when Im in a bit twisted it does not. Very odd.

In the video my FJ is on a hill. I checked the level when flat, but did the video on unlevel ground. That's why more fluid than you expect is draining from the hole.

There is fluid left inside the pan when only performing the drain and fill. It is just fine to leave that in the pan for this method. The idea behind the drain and fill is that you can replenish the fluid additives without completely flushing the transmission. Most transmission technicians would agree that replacing all of the fluid with brand new fluid can be worse for your transmission. So, any fluid left after a simple drain and fill is fine. You replace enough fluid for the transmission to be happy. If you do this procedure, say every 30k, all the fluid will get replaced over time. This is the simplest, easiest, and least stressful way to service your transmission. At some point you will want to replace the fluid filter (maybe 120k miles). At that time, the pan comes off and the fluid gets replaced. I hope this makes sense. Feel free to reach out with any more questions.

I landed on doing this every 30k miles. I think the consensus is that completely flushing makes the transmission run worse? But, if you start servicing at low miles I don't think it becomes much of an issue.

1st: in the repair manual, you drain the fluid warm, do the repair, put cold fluid in, warm the fluid back up, then correct the level. 2nd: my method checks warm fluid level, drain and fill the amount you took out. I drained 2.5qts which is a small amount making the fluid expansion difference basically moot. However, I do suggest checking the fluid level again later on when it's convenient for you. I'm going to do a video comparing the volume of transmission fluid when hot vs cold to illustrate how moot the concern is. Happy servicing.

@@WildRiverCamping Really cool that you take the time to share your advice and experience. Would be the first time and prefer to do it myself. 2007, original owner, only 62K on odometer and plan on keeping it. Just changed the rear diff oil today. Thanks again 🫡

Yes, that's what I did. There are holes for a pad -lock

I let my FJ warm up for 5 to 10min and it's just off the cold line. Maybe 15min in your case?

Thanks for the reply. The temp light finally come on after 30 minutes. Granted it was a cold start and about 35 degrees.

Im having the same issue I dint keep track of time but it seems like ive been waiting forever

It was about 2.5 quarts. Thanks for watching.

60 to 100k miles should be a good fluid change interval. There's no harm in changing fluid early. I'm going to do a drain-and-fill every 40k miles.

You're correct, the stream of fluid appeared to be overfilled. It was pouring out like that because my driveway is sloped quite a bit. It was level front to rear, but not side to side. I did confirm the proper level earlier on level ground. I appreciate your attention to detail.

How do you know the level is correct to begin with? I check to confirm it is at the correct level first, so I know that when I add the same amount I removed it will be close to correct. With the difference in fluid temp, the new fluid will be slightly over filled when warmed up, so going back and setting the level will be easy--just rain some out when at temp. Or, even easier, let the fluid cool down completely before draining. That way the fluid temp and volume will be the same when drained and filled.

So better to replace it in the winter than the summer? @@WildRiverCamping

I couldn't tell you what's better. I'm a rebel I guess, and change mine whenever I want.

@@WildRiverCamping 🤠

I haven't replaced it yet, but maybe I will at the next service. I'll post results from that in another video. I also want to do a temp vs volume video showing how much the fluid expands from cold to the temp where you check fluid level. This will determine how much overfilled it would be if drained warm, vs filling with cold fluid.

Yes you can do it that way. I've done it that way when all I had was the tubing and a funnel. It takes forever. I prefer the pump. I don't like most pumps either. The one I used in the video is my favorite. At work I use a pressurized container and a long tube to fill with.

I ordered the pump and measuring cups off your links. Thank you for the great video!

Yep. I am aware. Iv been an ASE Master with L-1, diesel, and electric vehicle technician since 2001. I know the fluid expands with temp. I mentioned this In a response to another viewer in the comments section. I admittedly forgot to mention it in the video, but you don't have to do it by the book like you suggest above. All you need to do after doing my modified procedure is to run it to temp--using the check procedure, and drain it until it trickles out. When you do it exactly like I have, the cold fluid you put in will be more than the warm fluid you drained out--but not by much. The check procedure, using the instrument cluster is also a "fluid level correct" procedure. So, all you need to do in addition to my method is to "correct" the fluid level, after the service. Much easier and faster than the by-the-book method you state above. Even if you don't correct the level, it will not be over by a significant amount. The fluid is checked and drained at closer to 100degF compared to operating temp of about 195degF. The fluid is not expanded nearly as much at check temp vs operating temp. So.. I choose the faster, easier, modified method. Thanks for watching.

I will not remove the pan unless I have a leak or other bigger repair. I don't think it's necessary to replace the trans filter. There are other Toyota master techs, that post on youtube, that agree.

Check this out, kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4PbhKhqYpmioNEsi=AbEDvjsibD3SSA0B

Yes, they have the same powertrain. I'm not certain about the trans temp procedure, but I would readily guess it's the same too.

weird. i mounted a 35 inch tire and can still open my window

​@@blacksheeptx214After you did the 180 degree flip? You might have a wheel space on your mount if you can open the window with a 35" on the factory mount.

Lmao...i noticed that, and decided to keep it for comic relief. Lol.

I reuse crush washers unless they look seriously worn. It is a good idea to let the fluid cool down before replacing, as trans fluid does expand with heat. If you drain hot and add the same amount of cold fluid, it will be overfilled. But, the fluid level set procedure is pretty easy to perform.

Thanks!

I wish all cars had a dip-stick with Cold and Hot fill lines.

FJ's don't have a dip stick

If you can show me the dipstick on the transmission of an FJ Cruiser i will send you $100😅

I think it's only a thing for this family of Toyota trucks (4 Runner, FJ, Land Cruiser, and Lexus GX 470).

I get a 0.3mpg increase after the regear. I set it up for the mountainous region I drive in.

@@WildRiverCamping That is a nice increase and you keep the oomph, and increase engine life. Do you use synthetic oils or just regular oils?

They were painted when I bought the FJ. The blacked out look makes a huge difference. The paint option is fine, but it will slowly chip away--especially the door handles. Maybe buy factory black handles and paint the more expensive parts. I the improvement in style is worth the cost of one of these kits; www.purefjcruiser.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=546

2013 with about 170k miles.