At Time index 0:43, I do have both gauges attached via a T connected to one vacuum. This is to make sure that the gauges read the same at a single level of vacuum. Also that the vacuum level is very close to the idle speed vacuum. At time index 1:32, I have removed the T fitting and each gauge is connected to it's own vacuum port. I had to do this after splitting the carbs hunting down a fuel leak. Splitting the carbs for any reason guarantees this will need to be done.

Initially, I used the rim weights to balance tires. But that caused dynamic imbalance when I had rim weights all stacked on one side. Even though the wheel was statically balanced, when spinning, the offset distance from the wheels CG and the balance weights, causes a dynamic force that makes the wheel wobble about the axle centerline. There is a pictorial explanation about halfway down this page e-quipfix.co.uk/wheel-balancing-101-static-vs-dynamic-wheel-balancing/ Using the theory of "finding the CG of anything" , which is done by hanging the "thing", in this case a wheel, from a point. The CG will be on a vertical line under the suspension point. With an irregular shape, hang it from a second point, and where the lines cross, is the CG. With a wheel assy, the CG is in line with the axle, so you only have to hang it once. Here is how I found the CG's of 2 wheels kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKjUg2RpedRkjrs I have found that after balancing almost 30 wheels now (Dec 2024)... Using stick on weights, close to this CG does the job. No reported dynamic imbalance yet.

I find lubing up the bead during bead breaking helps. I just let it seep in rather than try to force the tire off in one go. That is where my 60/40 mix of Murphey's oil soap and water works well. Mounting soap is good, apparently it is non-corrosive to the rim... which dish soap may be. Sometimes the beads are hard to pop on. I found this method in the internet and it worked (once I learned what not to do) kzbin.info/www/bejne/moLVkmePe5iAgqc Steel rims are generally good for horizontal balancing. It's the rims where the spokes are more toward the center - (google " low offset wheels ") Zero offset wheels will not be stable and can only be balanced on a vertical machine. I made a couple of those, but they are tricky to make and only work on specific wheels. Here is what I made kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqaYlIeDptV8nrs

It does work on most wheels. There are limits depending on where the CG of the ball is compared to the CG of the hub or wheel assy. Couple of video's that explain that. Kia soul tire change kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZjNf4JonNlmrsk Full explanation (boring) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqrZY3mkqMqCf5o

You are correct. I only pushed the cable down to below where the a-pillar overlaps with the roof liner. I didn't really want to take the a-pillar plastic piece out as it was showing a lot of resistance. Perhaps if the bag goes off, I should worry about the sharp plastic edges of the burst a-pillar cover hitting me. Not sure the wire is going to care I did the same thing in this car, but the airbags didn't deploy!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmPFeoVmoZKGpJo

The magnets caught a lot of metallic debris and the rest of the dirt (clutch dust??) was everywhere else. The viscosity between my fingers felt fine and there was no burning smell. I thought it was worth doing at this mileage (100-110K). If you do it, plan to do NOT do it in summer as the oil could get to hot too fast for the level check.

@@richbinaz Thanks for the information.

I did look at one time and did not find an economic replacement, which is why I went with the rebuilding route. I have a YSS list, they state an "MZ506-300TR-15" works. There are other shock makers... ohlins, Ikon, Hagen, TEC Then there are old bike shocks that might fit. Bike forums might help with that. I posted this on the Facebook forum - it is hard to use and search thru.

I think it does still burn nicely. WD40 is a "light oil" (<-- from their MSDS sheets) with a solvent or two. I would just rather keep oils and solvents away from the tires, not sure what they would do to the rubber... Not keen on this kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ-qmqRoiZV4rZI My eyebrows have already fallen out so what is next to burn?

@@richbinaz STARTING FLUID! THAT WILL WORK!! Years back WD 40 had a combustible propellant and was used for this job. WD40 was sued and changed the formula.

@@CCRoselle I think they changed to CO2... Perhaps if we fill all tires with CO2, that will put a dent in climate change (not).

I agree!! It is a danger zone. I was quite conscious of how nasty that bead can be. Getting those tires on and off manually gives you a good feel for the forces involved. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXjZZoCLrceEacU

I was once doing the _lighting a flammable vapour_ technique, using a long reach gas (BBQ) lighter. The tip of the lighter got trapped & crushed in an instant & needed a lot of persuasion to get it out. Glad it wasn't my fingers!

And here is how I do tires now kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZjNf4JonNlmrsk It works for most wheels

I really struggled with the last pair of silverado tires and the ratchet method kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXjZZoCLrceEacU Ended up on the floor with 2x4's under the rim, then the tire and eventually got lucky. Thought I was going to have to get a bead blaster... Doesn't fit with cheap and easy

A ratchet strap didn't do anything helpful on my 185/65R15 tyre. I'm thinking that maybe it's more effective on lower profile tyres?

@@alanm8932 It may be more to do with the way tires are stored on the racks. I have seen, on a tire makers website, that they are meant to be stored upright, not flat. Then the same maker shows his tires stored flat, and in big piles, waiting for shipping out of the factory. That will flatten them out and give a nice big gap. Storage recommendation www.continental-tires.com/products/b2c/tire-knowledge/storing-tires/

@richbinaz OK, that probably explains why I don't find the strap helps at all… I've never fitted a new tyre! I see what you're saying about storage of new tyres.

@@alanm8932 This how I do my tire changes kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWTYnKucjpuXq6s It helps when the city I live in has a hazardous waste disposal facility. I can bring them 5 tires a day and they take them for free. After doing close to 30 tires for family and friends, I am ahead on the deal $$$wise compared to taking it to a shop

Hi Adrian, Like a hypoid gear oil? I'm sure that would work even though it would be a bit messy. And it would work better in winter than summer. The important thing is that the base the ball sits on is level. The wobble is not that bad, as I saw on a recent tire change. I pre-balanced the hub, then balanced the wheel Hub balance kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWTYnKucjpuXq6s Wheel balance kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWTYnKucjpuXq6s

Hi Justin, Unless the dealer has a special adapter that bolts to where the oil cooler normally fits, they can't change all the oil. A lot is trapped in the torque converter. about 8 qts total. That special adapter is not a standard toyota tool. That would be a question to ask. This video change replaced ~4 2/3 qts. No problems till it was sold at 165K, after that?? If you do a drain and fill (not removing the pan) ~2qts. But this doesn't clean the crud out of the pan etc. At 177K miles, I would recommend removing the pan to change the filter, clean off the magnets and clean out the sump. I do not see a way that would harm anything. It's a static process, so as long as it's not done in a dust storm, it should be fine If something is going wrong in the tranny, this will not fix it. I do recommend either the toyota fluid $$$$$ or the Aisin fluid $$. Aisin makes the tranny for toyota... You decide I think they shoot for a life of 150K miles, so as you are beyond their projected life, I would think your dealer would do it now. If not, find an independent garage that can do it... or DIY Good luck

Nothing wrong with a vertical balancer, except the cost. When I gave up on the HF bubble balancer, my next trial was to come up with a vertical balancer... using a wheel hub. It turned out to be tricky to make and really only suited one hub size - not optimal. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqaYlIeDptV8nrs My goal was to come up with something that doesn't break the bank, otherwise you may as well have discount tire do it (DTC). So I built my own wooden stand with wood offcuts I had laying around. The metal plate cost about $2. The steel ball $8. The spirit level I already had. The laser was $34 and I already had a tripod to mount it on. Hub centric rings $20 allow me to do multiple wheel hub diameters. DTC charges about $25 for mounting and balancing, so I can get ahead of the investment cost pretty quickly and it is surprisingly accurate. I can get within 1/4oz and no complaints of dynamic vibrations yet.

With this small tubing, it usually forms a muddy puddle. With the larger tubing - which I don't have anymore - there will be a fountain as the jet of water forces it's way out. This one just made a mud puddle kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4mxlHeFib16ZpY This happens even with pressure reducers in the system to take the 80 psi (5.5 bar) down to around 30 psi (2 bar)

@ thanks, that is very informative.

It's a Panasonic HC-V180K, but I don't think they make it anymore. When i search for it all I see are out of stock notices. Comes with stability and that long zoom. Even downloadable software to process the videos with. Not many camcorders around anymore, everyone uses their iPhone

Nice. I just wanted to make sure I had lots of room to do this. Perhaps the battery tray was not in the way with your right hand drive car? Sure blocked mine - see @ 6:35

Hmmm, tricky. I hope the bowl is not cracked, that pot metal is pretty soft. I think it is softer than the screw that goes in to plug the hole. As an emergency measure, you may be able to wrap some teflon tape (plumbing tape) around the cone on the drain screw and gently screw that in till the leaking stops. Might take a couple of goes. Pretty sure new parts are unavailable, so junkyards or some other fix may be all that is available.

I think it's put in there for shock and vibration resistance. It's only shock absorption is the tire itself. No benefit from the springs and dampers. I'm sure it's a rough ride in there.

Sorry, not understanding what you say. Let me know if the following does not clear things up. I did go thru some changes from this early video. I now balance the tires like in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZjNf4JonNlmrsk Did a separate geometric proof here (boring) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqrZY3mkqMqCf5o

Discs are expensive. The dial indicator and magnetic base were cheaper!

That little laser is quite accurate. I have done a test with it where I checked how level it was with a 4 foot spirit level and when I line up the green line the level, it shows the bubble dead canter. I probably can't get it more accurate than that. The laser has a built in tilt mechanism, like a pinball machine, which makes it beep if it isn't throwing a level line. I put 3 bolts into the stool base so I can level it, then put the 4 foot level on the top of the steel plate. The laser is on a tripod and I bring the line down to meet the top edge of the level. Adjusting the 3 bolts so that I get it level in 2 directions 90° apart. Like this... Then I don't move it until I'm packing it all away. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZjNf4JonNlmrsk Then skip along to time index 10:20 to see how I do the balancing.

There is something that runs for about 2 minutes after a simple door opening & closing, and it has a pretty heavy current draw. It isn't that odd fuel pump whine after the engine stops, it's something else. I need to talk to a Mazda tech to see what it could be. Just realized, the test I did at the end... I should have waited a couple of minutes until the current draw ended and the battery recovered a bit, to get a better read on it.

Not yet, just got back from Michigan and it won't start now. Need to take the carbs off again and clean out the jets. It has finally cooled down but a recent hernia operation is slowing me down a lot. Going in for a 2 week check up, will see if the doc allows me to lift anything.

I do not know. They were done by a guy called Dennis Veatch, through a web forum that is now defunct. This link may get you to him moto-dude.com/gsx1100g.html OR creatid.com/about/ OR www.permabond.com/materials_bonded/how-to-bond-ptfe-adhesives-for-ptfe/

The dial indicator on the drier worked great. It didn't move. No I don't have a surface table with angle plates & slip gages etc etc. I work in my garage. The TIR was repeatable, I turned it several times. Not shown in the video as I try to keep them short. The location where I rested the Indicator, on the cone, was at the pivot point location on the inside, so it was measuring how out of center it was... The whole point of this machine is to support the wheel axis parallel and coincident with the axis of the balancer. It isn't. .017" doesn't sound much, but when you multiply it by the wheel weight (40 lbs in this case) that is the out of balance moment you can't account for. I ended up chasing that for hours trying to get it right. Never worked, the balance came out different every time. Math?? .017" x 40lbs x 16 Convert to ounces / 7.5" radius of rim = 1.45oz off Lift and turn wheel, replace, where is the out of balance now??? The wheel-disc brake mating surface has to be perpendicular to the balancer axis, or the result will be wrong. The slop in the spring loaded frame makes sure that will never happen. The pivot shaft has to be vertical or the result will be wrong - but there is no mention or supplied method to get the base level. The head of the balancer is out of balance. I tried without success to balance it with weights, but when I put the frame and springs back on, it was out of balance again. My method of balancing with a steel ball on a level steel plate works great. I couldn't get over 60 mph without severe vibration using the HF balancer. At 80mph after the ball balancer, smooth as silk. same car, same wheels The HF balancer? In the shed out back - useless. Good luck with yours. You may have got a good one

Just checked the manual (pg 1-9) and you are indeed correct!! That was the APS I was adjusting. Apologies to all about the error... So looking at the diagram pg 1-10, the APS tells the computer what position you just turned the twist grip to... The computer does its magic and turns the servo motor to some position... Then the TPS tells the computer where the throttle plates are set and does any corrections necessary. All in 1/1000th of a second. The chain and sprockets are fine, I only have about 7500 miles on them and increased the ridiculously tight amount of slack based on measurements of the 3 axis relating to chain tightness and how tight I think a chain should be. I have a PPT slide show about that somewhere... Oh here it is kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGTciJVtnKyZgbs I'm approaching 70 now and may be giving up riding soon if the docs can't fix some issues I have.

Yes, about 1/4 mile down the road. He was deemed 100% at fault, but I'm sure my insurance rates will go up anyway.

How/what was this truckie doing to give a potentially life ending love tap?!?! 🙈🙈

@@PetrinaBarrett I suspect he has a short term memory problem. I have seen it in other drivers too, where the start to pass you then pull in when you are out of their peripheral vision. They can't remember from one second to the next who is around them. These people should not have licenses to drive, in his case, he should lose his CDL (Commercial Drivers License). I was not given an option to testify in his traffic ticket case. We were probably in the trucks blind spot... but as he approached us from behind, he should have thought "Where did that red car go?" and done something different to figure out where we had gone. Like slow down by 1 mph for a bit. No-one was directly behind him as you can see in the video. He was not under pressure. But he just pulled over and hit us with his front wheel just ahead of our rear tire

This may not be the transmission, even though everything points to it. My corolla does the same thing on a more frequent basis. I think it is a fueling issue as I have caught the rev counter dropping on take off. Had a computer update done once and for the 100 mile "re-learning" period after that, there was no issue and it even accelerated better. After that, back to the same. At 180K miles, the CVT oil change noted above should help even if it only cleans out the sump of debris and puts a new filter in.

I did not remove the cooler, so I can't give you that number. The risk of getting dirt into the system by removing the cooler is probably not worth it. Compared to the total system volume of around 8 QTS, which includes oil trapped in the torque converter.

If you have a regular lead acid battery then yes. Also the rear frame over the battery that supports the tank. You might find this video / PPT helpful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6rdqGCVodial5o

Hiya, Trying to bend it with the wrench did not work, it needed to be struck with the metal rod thru the spokes. I did a lot of checking to see how much each strike gave me, then adjusted the force and number of hits to suit. It is still working. I did try to sand down what I thought was a high spot before resorting to the sledge hammer method. Now I have a thin spot on the disc, which is noticeable when using the back brake. Something not to do.

It is a steel gasket with a coating of RTV already on it. I added nothing to it. No leaks or retightening in the 55K miles she put on the car after the change, before she sold it. I would advise against using additional RTV as it could squeeze out internally, little bits could break off and get stuck in the filter.

@@richbinaz tq so much

I believe the cause of the misalignment was a missing pilot between the clutch pressure plate and the inner hub. The fix was a special cylindrical tool that needed to be in place when the clutch spring bolts were tightened. This centered the plate and cured the loud banging noises and surging associated with the problem. I'm not finding much info about it on-line now

No, it really stays up in the valve gear. Do you have an early Bonnie... like an '01 or '02 ??? Those had trouble with clutch noises when the inner hub was misaligned

Thank you for responding. I have a 2012 Bonneville T100. And I think it is coming from the clutch area. I guess I'll be pulling the clutch cover off and seeing what I can find.

@@robertsullivan5219 The 2012's were well sorted by then. They even changed the air/oil separator in the clutch housing to simplify it.

I have to use the knee pads. You would think with a knee replacement the pain would be gone... oh no - very sensitive. I'm using the cheesy $5 Lowes Kobalt ones now and toss them when the foam starts to collapse. Sweat band essential in Phoenix. The salt in the sweat just stings like crazy!

Yes. I saw lots of steel welded up bars that looked very nice. But I don't have a welder or all that steel stock lying around waiting for a project to use it on. After thinking about it for a while, I came up with a cheaper and easier to make a bar. Just need woodworking tools... kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWmwlZd8qKugnaM Here I am using it on a Silverado 1500 tire. Not all steps shown, but the Mk4 bar works kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXjZZoCLrceEacU This one shows all the steps kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZjNf4JonNlmrsk