Going to make me a pair.A green one for the front and a red one for the back tire.I found some scrap leather and just bought a pair of reflectors on EBay.A lot more cheaper making them yourself.

All of my streetfighter builds are twitchy. I attribute it to the narrow bars.

Well done. 👀

That's exactly what I'm trying to do so great to see you've sorted it. Read lots of sites saying it won't work so it was a big relief when your channel showed up!! My wife likes a similar hub gear set up to your Nexus (SRAM S7, coaster brake) and I recently picked up a nice vintage German city bike that previously had a derailleur but didn't spot the vertical dropouts so, like you, I need a chain tensioner. Just curious what chain set up you have - do you run a 3/32" chain set up or 1/8" - a lot of the chain tensioners seem designed for 3/32 and I'm not sure if they're wide enough for 1/8? Also the Nexus hub sprocket looked maybe non standard (or just really new and clean!!). Any advice would be much appreciated. Also if your chain tensioner has proved reliable 3 years on... Thanks.

With this tensioner it is unsafe. The tensioner is not strong enough to with stand the pulling force on the lower chain while braking. In this video you can already see the tensioner deflect. That also causes the upper chain to sag. With a sturdy tensioner a coaster brake is not a problem, but this one it too floppy.

I don't get why you'd add a tensioner. Coaster brakes work fine without one. What am I missing?

That's not a derailleur. What if you don't want to reuse it or can't? Low end? Raleigh used to be what I'd call expensive back in the day. I have a spot for a derailleur Hanger which is supposed to be a 7 I guess but the frames got no recess for it so is there such a thing as a flush mount derailleur Hanger or something to that effect?

The beauty and simplicity of a good coaster brake hub is good. Freewheels and cassettes don't even compare. Steel bike frames and rims are better too. So much for modern technological advancements.

Thinking of changing my gears to an internal geared hub, might try using the derailleur as a tensioner so that if I’m not happy with the IGH I can change back 🤔

pass a dena

I really enjoyed your video i want you to know that i work on lot of bicycles different types and styles and i'm currently working on an earth cruiser and i've never had to deal with a coaster brake before you know everything i've ever done with mountain bikes and i'm trying to build a motorized earth cruiser bicycle and my hub is bad so i want to know if you would recommend a good herb that will fit my earthcruiser unfortunately

How about welding a chainring onto the largest cog of the freewheel? So it would be still possible to use all the other cogs as well?

Wow! What a great idea 😄

I like the 700 wheel in a 26 inch frame. I am also figuring this out on my 26 inch folding bike and I want to move the V brakes up by welding 2 extra V-brake capstands. I like your work and ingenuity 👍

Never seen such a modification like this! But how did you solve the issue with the (4 speed) shifter???

I had a 2 cog setup on my Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub for a little extra range. I put two regular SA cogs flanges facing to make room for the chain, with a short cage derailleur. It worked OK, but the spring clip would ping off once in a while during a shift. I've heard that this was often done back in the day. I like your project, nice to see tinkering going on!

I miss Dennis and Huell....

Been a while! Interesting piece, though I will wager I will not use the information... LOL!

Greetings from Croatia! That was awesome, never seen anything like that!! Are you an engineer?

⚠️CAUTION.Turn down volume by 50% before attempting to listen. 😊 I asked the same question about those big wheel bikes but one thing I’m recently learning is that it is easier to balance from a higher position. 😮 I have to say, the interviewer asked good questions. Subscribed. ❤I love Dennis’s outfits. 17:07 Look at the guy to the left in the high wheeler: Effortless! … I am now at the end. A great story and lovely place … I HAVE TO visit Pasadena.

as general tinker I find a lot of bike mechanics tend to be parts changers than real mechanic's sad to say. now you have sum that can think out the box but no a lot can! now i can imagine one could run a front derailleur with a coaster brake hub?

Less sprocket teeths are useful in downhill applications in order to have some lean(chain resistance) and some throttled propulsion on some less inclined segments.

I'd like to see the brake in action :)

What about the money you withheld? Now that the space is back and running why don't you return the bike oven funds.

To bad the boomers don't get with the times. I mean founders. Cute video.

Is this safe? Chain doesn't come off?

Thebtensioner roller is inside the chain..if outside thechain it wint work🤣🤣

Thanks from downunder ! Wonderful overview of the simple coaster brake . Just picked up an old bike from the 1960's & needed to do an overhaul . Now I've got the low down , cheers ;-)

Build it now. Please.

Very much appreciated this video. I’m single speeding, my nice old mid 80s Raleigh Mountain Tour MB right now, conveniently featuring horizontal drop outs.

Sweet! Nice to see You! Miss You! [hugs!]

Rpm increases in big crank.

My husband, Aaron Woien, is your cousin!

Had one I made for my old bike ! A sears ted Williams model !

Thank you. This is sweet. God bless you.

what is a Bassackal?

The effect of rear sprocket size on derailleur bikes is a lot more complicated than it might seem. In the IHPVA article you mentioned, two important conclusions are reached with regards to derailleur drivetrain efficiency: 1. Derailleur drivetrain efficiency has a negative linear correlation with reciprocal chain tension. In other words, if you apply double the torque into the crank in a given gear combo, then, crudely speaking, you will cut the percentage of power loss in half. 2. Drivetrain efficiency increases with rear sprocket size, all else being equal. Although not directly mentioned in the article, point 2 applies to the chainring as well, albeit to a lesser extent, and this has important ramifications for fixed-gear bikes as you've quite well explained. However, it turns out that points 1 and 2 lead to conflicting advice with regards to minimizing drivetrain losses in derailleur bikes. If one switches to a larger rear sprocket, then chain tension MUST decrease at the same input power and road speed. This occurs because the pitch line velocity of the chain increases. Close inspection of the graph of efficiency vs reciprocal chain tension for a Shimano Dura-Ace rear derailleur (on page 6 of the article) reveals that, out of the 52:11, 52:15, and 52:21 combos tested, the 52:21 is most efficient at a given chain tension. However, this isn't the complete story. When accounting for differences in chain tension required to achieve a given rear wheel torque, the 52:11 turns out to be the most efficient combo up to 6.5 Newton-meters. For a given rear wheel torque of greater than 6.5 Newton-meters, the 52:15 becomes the most efficient. The linear best fit lines of the efficiency data seem to suggest that 52:15 remains the most efficient combo of the three as rear wheel torque continues to increase. This lends credence to the idea that a 15t cog is close to the optimal size for riding at moderate to high intensities on the flat, or when climbing even the slightest of gradients. I am curious as to what effect, if any, derailleur cage tension has on the optimal cassette cog size. I suspect that decreasing cage tension would decrease the relative importance of chain tension, and increase the relative importance of rear cog size, perhaps to the point where the 21t cog might become more efficient than the 15t cog when riding hard.

Gold indeed, thanks for sharing this essential "bah-sickle" memorial tour!

That was great. It made my day

Thankyou sir.

But how

I did that last year with my folding bike

i broke my tensioner trying this

Thank you. I've been trying to figure out how to reassemble this adult trike coaster break and your video was very helpful.

There was an elevated bike path from Pasadena to downtown LA.

Hi. I drive a coaster brake on my old MTB with vertical drop outs for years now. I built the drivetrain in that way that it was almost a (so called) »magic gear«. The tension on the chain was not perfect but ok - but I always felt a little uncomfortable with it. So, today I tried the chain tensioner and: It worked really well !!! The chain in now under full tension while pedaling and it doesn’t loose much tension while braking. Building this I asked myself why I hadn’t thought of it myself ;-)). The thing is: Because you do not pedal while braking the chance that your chain is going over the edge of the sprocket is almost zero … Cheers !!! And thank you for the hint !!!

Thank you for this detailed teardown of a coaster brake. It is a wonderful piece of engineering, actually! The assembly, if properly lubricated, lasts a lifetime. What other braking system is so simply designed, and so straight forward in deployment, that it impresses an adult, but is so simple, a child can operate it with minimal instruction. Other bicycle braking systems used on bicycles, like calipers, or the disc, overcomplicate the process. The original mountain bike movement, back in the 60's, used old coaster brake bicycles, as they were cheap and plentiful.

Loved when he brought out a derailleur just to trash on it!

Nice Man, thanks. I’m new to the world of hub shiners🇦🇺🤙