oh I hope you are ok and not having health holdbacks...I am slowly coming back. Rough time I had. Wouldn't wish it on anyone.

Thanks for the complement and the visit! The lift raises up to about horizontal and stops, so the logs do not come rolling at you. The geometry is already figured out in the lift mounting brackets that were part of the kit. That took a lot of design work out of the equation.

DC to the filaments but pulsed (switched). Filaments like AC better for better illumination. How they figured it out, not sure but that is probably why there is a trimmer pot in that circuit to optimize. As far as replicating on an IV-6, I guess one could. For experimentation I guess. On a multi digit VFD one has to use the grids as they only have one filament.

The datasheet at the end of the video shows 35 to 45 mA filament current for this tube. Frequency of these mm53xx series clocks all seem to run 700 to 1500 Hz equipped with the recommended capacitor and resistor. Maybe instead of thinking heating the filament, think biasing. Emission and non emission...current or no current. The tube filament needs current to permit emission, right? I understand your thought though. How fast can the reaction time be. For something many say can't be done, well it has been done, it just may not be the most efficient or effective and that maybe why we see a "turbulent" display at times. I do think what you think and maybe that is why they installed grids later on! The after glow you see on segments is just "ghosting" which is common on any MM53xx series chip from my experience. There is no delay between digit activation. The data sheet does show a circuit added to the "output enable" (O.E.) pin on those 53xx's with that option to minimize the "ghosting".

Well, as far as I can explain, there would be no need. The filaments like AC better. I read somewhere that AC on the filament produces a better and more even illumination of the segments as compared to DC. So there is generally an isolated AC winding feeding just the filaments. Then the grid is used to turn each tube on and off and it requires less current. But I suppose one could (or in this clock, could have) switch the filaments on the more modern tubes and just biased the grid positive (on all the time). So yeah I guess. hmm oh well. I like the correctness anyhow.

@@JIMO415 I was just curious if in this case it turned out that you had to use new tubes, could it be done without modifying the circuitry to switch the grids. Also, does AC matter if the filaments are paralleled? But maybe the circuitry is such that they are in series so in that case it would matter.

@@Enigma758 it would depend on the rating of the filament current between the tubes. But possibly as there is that trimmer pot that may have accounted for any difference, not sure. I had not begun to look into that yet.

@@JIMO415 I looked at your schematic again and I see that the filaments are in series, so as you suggest, AC would be best to avoid a gradient. I bought some IV26 tubes which do not have grid control which is why I ask. I have not fired them up yet, but I did see where someone else was using filament control in order to mux them. I would think DC might be OK if the filaments are individually powered from a series DC circuit (no gradient since each tube is not affected by the others) but I haven't tried it yet.

@@Enigma758 I have other VFD tube clocks where the filaments are in series with each other but this clock, they are not. (something in my pencil art schematic may not be exactly clear?) If they were in series, they could not be individually controlled for multiplexing. The IV-26 tubes are available in 3 different "types". They are designated type 1, type 2 and type 3. My Elektronika 7-06K uses the type 2 variation. You are correct, there are no grids in them. And interesting question on separated tubes vs series tubes filaments as to how they are affected by AC vs DC. Hmmm. Anyhow, with out grids in the IV-26 tubes, individual dots or grouped out dots are controlled with separate lead in wires depending on the tube type. I do not know how the type 3 is layed out but type 1 is individual dots each controlled by it's own lead in wire and the type 2 has one separate lead in wire for each of the 3 separate dot groupings. I touch on it a little here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqXHfY2Bptl2nck Thanks for the comments!

You may already know the difference between direct driving a display and multiplexing a display. So, as this display is multiplexed, that is: one tube is on at a time and scans faster than the eye can see, to display the time as we see it. This is done to keep wiring and connection counts down. So, in order to activate a tube in the sequence, VFD tubes usually have a grid screen to bias positive to allow emission from the filaments to create the glow on the phosphor. Bias it negative, the emission stops. But these older VFD tubes do not have a grid. So, instead, the original designer chose to enable or disable each tube by switching the filaments on and off. I think the Soviet clocks are direct drive, (each tube is wired direct to the counter/driver) or at least the two examples I have are.

@@JIMO415 Hi, any chance to put Your findings on a simple schematics on google drive. pls? Have watched the video yesterday, but lost it in my memories already. OMG. The MM5311 series datasheet does not even mention switching those individual filaments on/off. I have shown how the mechanics of the MM5314 working in an unexpected manner on the single digit Numitron clock. It was a fun to see it in real life by lighring up the diodes. That looked to me much different from what you tried to explain by telling. Could You make a video that shows on oszillogram how it goes? You have shown afterglow on the rightmost VFD. Can this be eliminated entirely? Four channels at a time would be great to watch.

@@thomasw2509 see this old video I did and horribly describe the multiplexing on a scope on 2 channels...skip forward to 9:20 minutes in: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWLQaXaLo5t6fKs

Haha auto parts. Thank you for the complements. It is a honor to hold this one in the hands. Hard to find.

Thank you! Saving these old things makes me happy. I see you are building the KoolKlox! I bought mine assembled! It is a very "kool" clock! enjoy it.

Thank you again for the help with them!

thank you, it was fun

Thanks!

I agree

I sent a reply via email

@@JIMO415 Thanks. Have responded, see the vintage push buttons on picture.

Thanks! I will look forward to seeing your version. I never looked but maybe the 036 and the 044 are the same family? I got this saw (with a 011 and an 024AV) from a buddy that had a shop put a new top end on the 036. I figured that it would be good to go and the deal was great. Well, a deep cleaning was needed and that is when I discovered the crank end was toasted. So, a new crank was in order hence the video. Check out tinman's saws channel. Good tips there.

@@JIMO415 same chassis and cases so theyre like a small block chev!

Yeah they are worn as expected. By some stroke of luck after someone gave me a part number and a link to check out...I have new correct tubes here!

@@JIMO415 That sure was nice of whoever that was LOL. Hopefully you can get those new tubes installed and get this clock back to its former glory.

thank you.

Ahh Peter, I actually have a small stock of IV3 and IV6 that I will look at to see if they may work. I think I have DG8 tubes as well. If you have the exact tubes that are in this clock, I would be amazed! I am sure they are long gone by this day and age.

Thanks. You probably will see paper and pencil from me lol

@@JIMO415 Like I said earlier, if You need support regarding creating/recreating new old pcb, let me know. For some successfull made replicas see my videos. The elektronika clock pcb rebuild I design just from pulicly available pictures on the internet was almost spot on. Proven good by a later purchased original clock. This was on almost the very first of my videos Second the great looking design of old pcb combined with the new stand and housing, the Optoelectronics 850-4 50 years of MM5314N remake you might remember. Keep hacking. Cheers

@@thomasw2509 thank you! I may try to get into a PCB program this winter. KiCad maybe?

@@JIMO415 Hi Jim, recently we talked if you want to keep the fun in the game, " Do not enter the enemies territory". KiCAD definitiv IS a sack of burden. NO, no. I'm used to use a program that does electronically painting traces,like I did 50 years ago on paper. The name Sprint Layout. dead esy to use, powerfull enough. It has no schematics editor. Do it like you would do on paper. If it exists take the schamatics or r draw one of your own. Find out how to put components on a pcb. start placing parts, connect them. Thats it. For doing the reverse engineering of the schematics, load the pcb foil below the pcb traces layer. Place the paarts , draw the traces, read back the net list, restore the schematics. Dont know if those exported partlsist/netlists can be imported into the usual schematics editor. On the internet poeple can be found making VERY complex layouts using Sprint Layout. It depends on You, not the program.

@@thomasw2509 Thanks. That is exactly the feedback I was needing. Easy peasy is what I need.

Indeed. I neglected to mention the darkening on the phosphor on the segments...

My thinking also. Thanks for the input.

Thanks!

Thanks! This is my other hobby. The intro segment is just a touch of what I have LOL

Interesting fact on the other filter colors. Yes, the 70's style boards..... Simple to work on and a beauty lost with time. Hopefully I can continue to dig up more. I do like the orange glow of the Nixie and Numitron tubes but the VFD has a different appealing draw about it that I like. Glad you enjoyed.

Thank you!!

Glad to help! My install of the Edelbrock I did re-clock the lower portion one hole over. Just read the directions carefully if you do that before retightening the six screws. You may not have to do that if you use a 90 degree fitting and aim it to the rear of the vehicle and lead the pump output tube/hose back and then sweep upwards to clear the ps pump and belt. A little tricky but doable. Out of curiosity, is your pump that failed an older one or a fairly new pump similar to what I describe? Thanks

In time, I will get it going. Probably toward/during winter. I would be very interested in seeing what these kits look like if they are early. Too bad the write up was not done!!! Sorry about that. Was this forum TubeClockDB.com by any chance? I have one Tungsol 1704C with the naked look. It is different for sure. It looks as if the parts inside are floating in a way.

@@JIMO415 Yes, exactly that forum. And it's a shame that it was taken down completely instead of setting it readonly. A lot of knowledge has gone lost due to this step. And not everything is archived. If you search for my name as written in my url (torstenlang) and nixie you should find the page. And yes, it's quite outdated - it was originally made so that the target audience (Atari and Amiga users) could visit the website with their native browsers.

there is a schematic floating around online using the 5316 and vfd tubes.....might as well if you get bored. They sat ac current for the filaments works best. It get difficult to find the correct transformer. I have started a vfd build and plan on using two transformers. One will be rectified for the driving circuit and the other will be left ac and isolated for the filament string with a reference resistor.

@@JIMO415 You got mail with schematics, pictures of vfd psu

I did do it again!

Thanks! Me too. How's the ground hog these days? LOL

😂maybe someday I will post a clock video!

Great! Good luck with the project. If you like, send me a note if you document the project here on YT.

@@JIMO415would you think it would be ok to use it as a full time clock or do you think the tubes have a limited lifespan

@@RanHam the short answer is yes to both questions. I say build it and enjoy it. I have been running a Numitron clock built in 1977 that I obtained, changed one tube, rehabbed the clock and it has been going for 4 + years now and it has been good. The clock in this video was going for a year and a half+ then I put it aside. I now have it on the bench doing a modification so it can go the Australia! But yes, the tubes do have a lifespan. A few things can be done to extend their lifespan. They were designed to be run at 5 volts and 20 mA per segment. The 7447 driver does just that. A simple diode dropping chain of two or 3 rectifier diodes can limit the voltage at the tube supply +common rail and really cut back the voltage and thus the current to the filaments. I talk about that in a few of my Numi videos but only briefly mention it in this one. (It is a switch on the back panel with the 2 green wires and two diodes). Another consideration, there is something I read about in searching forums that if using a microcontroller, some programming can be done to keep a 'prewarming" current on the non active filaments before they fire to help keep the thermal shock to a minimum. The theory is that will help with longevity. But if using the original logic as probably found in your ESE, that is not possible. I would also consider keeping extra tubes on hand for sure before they disappear. They are out there if the are the pin type and not the wire lead type. Are they RCA DR-2000 tubes in your clock? They are still found on ebay. A compatible tube is also the DA-2000 (different brand: Apollo by IEE) also found on Ebay....but I just looked and wow! The asking price got real expensive! keep an eye on them...about $10 is what I bought a bunch for in the IEE brand NOS. If you keep the 7400 logic I have some schematics and there is some detail in this video...kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpqoqaqaqKaYia8

I am happy too. Thank you for the note and I am glad that you enjoyed it. There will be more! I am still moving a little slow.

Thank you. More waiting to be shown and later on worked on!

Yessir! Thanks. Unfortunately, the issues were not related to dimensions nor were they immersed in fuel long enough to have that issue. The problems were strictly valving/pressure on three and a bad assembly on this last one that pinched the diaphragm. The next video will reveal that.

Thanks! Great minds think alike

They are a very unique display. Glad you enjoyed.

Thank you! I have since added colons to it and it is a much nicer look that way. Thanks again.

Hi there. I am holding off on electronics tinkering at the moment but I am curious as to what you have in mind. Can you tell me a little more?

I've not figured out how to upload a photograph. Any thoughts as to how I could get the shot to you?

@@mikedimov5184 if you can share an email, that would work. I refrain from putting my email here but if absolutely necessary, I could if you let me know.

Hello, thanks for your interest. Do you have an email that you can leave me somewhere? I can then dig up what I have, I should still have them. I just did a PC upgrade and I would have to go to the "archives" lol. I should have the scans and I can email them which would be plan #1. LMK Thanks.

The temporary email I created got disabled. I will need to find another way to get the files. Thanks.

Got it. Thanks

yeah yeah...ummm it bothers me too. ummm I am working on it. Umm I am trying to help the community, I am not a youtube pro. LOL. This video has helped others. Ummm when you share some content I hope it is better than mine. 11K views on this video alone and in all my others, how does it feel to be the first to contribute a less than helpful suggestion. This was an unedited, off the cuff video put out in rough form because I can't sit very long and struggle with computer time editing with chronic pain issues. Just be aware that one never knows what kind of things people are dealing with in life. In moving forward in life, try to offer with support and understanding in mind :) . Enjoy the rest of your day. @MikeSmith-cc4wf

@@JIMO415 jackass ... you still got a freaking write ummm

me too. should be interesting.

indeed. Will be looking

Thank you, new touch. Peter is genuine!

Thank you so much for the encouragement. One more down under unboxing video to do very soon

This new little win 11 box renders my videos in 30 sec to each minute of video. Not bad from what I am used to. I can even still use the antique Movie Maker from waay back on it. Old dog here no new tricks for me...I tried, I struggled. The old unit will serve as storage space and a music box!

AH yes, you are the KZbinr I could not recite on the spot. Box filler from Peter! I think that I will have to light up a tube soon!