Today YOUR senile Mr President meets our stupid german chanzler. If that was a fare well tour, how will WE survive when Biden is gone, for ever? Thing is, YOUR OWN IDIOT is GIVING OUR IDIOTS instructions how to continue killing in Russia, Ukraina, Israel, Ghaza Strip. Lebanon. I WANT YOU, the american population to end the misery. take care about YOURSELF. Leave us alone. WE do NO WANT YOU, WE do NOT NEED YOU. WE want PEACE, so DO YOU? DO YOU want to live EVERY peopel in the world in PEACE? Think about. If You fail, it might come theUSA will vanish, entirely. and thats what YOU have deservered then. Tell your fellows, tell Your congress man, we are fed up follwing the USA. IF You, JIM, DO NOT ACCEPT the TRUTH, go to hell and never return. Bye.
@thomasw250912 күн бұрын
Thx for pointing to the old video. That video might help someone who is new to multiplexing and in particular how its done on the MM5314N chip. Is it fair to say I know this liitle lovely clock chip as much as You do? As allways, no offense, just my 2 cents. I know how multplexing works on the MM5314N and similar, I had it on my scope (2channels only). The new old clocks I have designed based on 40 years old mfg documents driven by the GdR made U125D four decade counter /clock chip are using the same principles, The designers improved that by placing a 1/32 of a full cycle between driving digits subsequently. After driving all digits an even longer blanking period follows before driving the first digit again. If I can recover myself, if I can get on my feets again someday, I would like to build the circuit with no control grid. Lets end the discussion.
@JIMO41511 күн бұрын
oh I hope you are ok and not having health holdbacks...I am slowly coming back. Rough time I had. Wouldn't wish it on anyone.
@KeyserTheRedBeard12 күн бұрын
Impressive content, Tinkering Jim O. Looking forward to your next upload from you. I smashed the thumbs up icon on your video. Keep up the fantastic work! Your insights into the hydraulic system modifications were enlightening. How do you determine the optimal positioning for the hydraulic lift to ensure maximum efficiency and safety when splitting larger logs?
@JIMO41511 күн бұрын
Thanks for the complement and the visit! The lift raises up to about horizontal and stops, so the logs do not come rolling at you. The geometry is already figured out in the lift mounting brackets that were part of the kit. That took a lot of design work out of the equation.
@thomasw250912 күн бұрын
Have inspected the blury schematics again. To me it looks like feeding the filament no DC at all. Just feeding pulses. They were given a sequence of shots of current pulses, just a tiny amount, that brings the heater up a bit. Have in mind it accumulates the the temperature over time on the heater, warming them up over time. How have they figured out, how much to preheat, before giving them the next short amount of energy? I assume feeding the heaters goes through tiny capacitors You have not numbered. To me it looks similar to setting a voltage on a certain level on a comparator input , before the next pulse triggers the gun. Can we replicate that mechanism on a regular VFD like the IV-6 or old Futaba I own by not using the grid?
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
DC to the filaments but pulsed (switched). Filaments like AC better for better illumination. How they figured it out, not sure but that is probably why there is a trimmer pot in that circuit to optimize. As far as replicating on an IV-6, I guess one could. For experimentation I guess. On a multi digit VFD one has to use the grids as they only have one filament.
@thomasw250912 күн бұрын
PLS, let me know. The datasheet has, max source current 0.3mA, max sink current 25mA. how much current does a singel filament heater draw on this tubes. I assume switching the digits happens at a frequency if (typical) 1kHz. This is not what a human can understand. At least I do not. To me it looks it does kind of POV. Means heating the filament virtually never stops. How fast can emission of the filament can be allowed/disallowd by just turning of the driving current. Well,the filament always does afterglow. It can not stop emitting photons imediately. No way. This is because of the thermal inertia. (Trägheit) This can not be defeated. When the filament is being switched on/off that fast appereantly it is always on.
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
The datasheet at the end of the video shows 35 to 45 mA filament current for this tube. Frequency of these mm53xx series clocks all seem to run 700 to 1500 Hz equipped with the recommended capacitor and resistor. Maybe instead of thinking heating the filament, think biasing. Emission and non emission...current or no current. The tube filament needs current to permit emission, right? I understand your thought though. How fast can the reaction time be. For something many say can't be done, well it has been done, it just may not be the most efficient or effective and that maybe why we see a "turbulent" display at times. I do think what you think and maybe that is why they installed grids later on! The after glow you see on segments is just "ghosting" which is common on any MM53xx series chip from my experience. There is no delay between digit activation. The data sheet does show a circuit added to the "output enable" (O.E.) pin on those 53xx's with that option to minimize the "ghosting".
@50sTransistorRadios12 күн бұрын
It was a long road to get there, but the end result looks great! Nice work, and thanks for the shout out.
@Enigma75813 күн бұрын
A very nice clock and you did a wonderful job bringing it back to life. Just curious about filament multiplexing. Is there a reason why that wouldn't work with more "modern" tubes?
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
Well, as far as I can explain, there would be no need. The filaments like AC better. I read somewhere that AC on the filament produces a better and more even illumination of the segments as compared to DC. So there is generally an isolated AC winding feeding just the filaments. Then the grid is used to turn each tube on and off and it requires less current. But I suppose one could (or in this clock, could have) switch the filaments on the more modern tubes and just biased the grid positive (on all the time). So yeah I guess. hmm oh well. I like the correctness anyhow.
@Enigma75812 күн бұрын
@@JIMO415 I was just curious if in this case it turned out that you had to use new tubes, could it be done without modifying the circuitry to switch the grids. Also, does AC matter if the filaments are paralleled? But maybe the circuitry is such that they are in series so in that case it would matter.
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
@@Enigma758 it would depend on the rating of the filament current between the tubes. But possibly as there is that trimmer pot that may have accounted for any difference, not sure. I had not begun to look into that yet.
@Enigma75812 күн бұрын
@@JIMO415 I looked at your schematic again and I see that the filaments are in series, so as you suggest, AC would be best to avoid a gradient. I bought some IV26 tubes which do not have grid control which is why I ask. I have not fired them up yet, but I did see where someone else was using filament control in order to mux them. I would think DC might be OK if the filaments are individually powered from a series DC circuit (no gradient since each tube is not affected by the others) but I haven't tried it yet.
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
@@Enigma758 I have other VFD tube clocks where the filaments are in series with each other but this clock, they are not. (something in my pencil art schematic may not be exactly clear?) If they were in series, they could not be individually controlled for multiplexing. The IV-26 tubes are available in 3 different "types". They are designated type 1, type 2 and type 3. My Elektronika 7-06K uses the type 2 variation. You are correct, there are no grids in them. And interesting question on separated tubes vs series tubes filaments as to how they are affected by AC vs DC. Hmmm. Anyhow, with out grids in the IV-26 tubes, individual dots or grouped out dots are controlled with separate lead in wires depending on the tube type. I do not know how the type 3 is layed out but type 1 is individual dots each controlled by it's own lead in wire and the type 2 has one separate lead in wire for each of the 3 separate dot groupings. I touch on it a little here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqXHfY2Bptl2nck Thanks for the comments!
@thomasw250913 күн бұрын
How did the designers made it working? You say switching on the filamnets. I guess they did similar to what I have found on soviet made elektronika VFD clocks, when they do kind of level shifting, mostly because of wanting to mitigate 50Hz flickering. So, is it that kind of adding a biasing voltage one end of the filaments?
@JIMO41513 күн бұрын
You may already know the difference between direct driving a display and multiplexing a display. So, as this display is multiplexed, that is: one tube is on at a time and scans faster than the eye can see, to display the time as we see it. This is done to keep wiring and connection counts down. So, in order to activate a tube in the sequence, VFD tubes usually have a grid screen to bias positive to allow emission from the filaments to create the glow on the phosphor. Bias it negative, the emission stops. But these older VFD tubes do not have a grid. So, instead, the original designer chose to enable or disable each tube by switching the filaments on and off. I think the Soviet clocks are direct drive, (each tube is wired direct to the counter/driver) or at least the two examples I have are.
@thomasw250913 күн бұрын
@@JIMO415 Hi, any chance to put Your findings on a simple schematics on google drive. pls? Have watched the video yesterday, but lost it in my memories already. OMG. The MM5311 series datasheet does not even mention switching those individual filaments on/off. I have shown how the mechanics of the MM5314 working in an unexpected manner on the single digit Numitron clock. It was a fun to see it in real life by lighring up the diodes. That looked to me much different from what you tried to explain by telling. Could You make a video that shows on oszillogram how it goes? You have shown afterglow on the rightmost VFD. Can this be eliminated entirely? Four channels at a time would be great to watch.
@JIMO41512 күн бұрын
@@thomasw2509 see this old video I did and horribly describe the multiplexing on a scope on 2 channels...skip forward to 9:20 minutes in: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWLQaXaLo5t6fKs
@thomasw250913 күн бұрын
Spare parts provided by Lakeland Autoparts, I guess. In my country I have experienced old car repair shop owners cleared the old stock, very old aprts came up on ebay briefly. Nice clock, repair job well done. Spared you recreating the whole thing starting with a new pcb. Congratulation.
@JIMO41513 күн бұрын
Haha auto parts. Thank you for the complements. It is a honor to hold this one in the hands. Hard to find.
@RollingTardis14 күн бұрын
Excellent Restore Work, Nice to see the clock working like new!
@JIMO41513 күн бұрын
Thank you! Saving these old things makes me happy. I see you are building the KoolKlox! I bought mine assembled! It is a very "kool" clock! enjoy it.
@jadenm636814 күн бұрын
Super cool to see those old tubes finally getting put to use.
@JIMO41513 күн бұрын
Thank you again for the help with them!
@larrwill14 күн бұрын
Nice job getting the Aries running again, another beautiful restoration.
@JIMO41513 күн бұрын
thank you, it was fun
@petri285215 күн бұрын
Adding a log lift device was a useful upgrade. I also have a log splitter. You have a similar hydraulic diagram to mine. Even the pressure gauge is in the same place😊
@JIMO41511 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@philipbennett2973Ай бұрын
Great video I bought block one on ebay and noticed quarter line needed for the rear port an understanding of line size is important when doing any sort work like this
@Derpy19692 ай бұрын
The rear port is clearly for 1/4" line.
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
I agree
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
Hi Jim, pls let me know where to get those old WORKING push buttons. Have tried cheap chineese made, those looking similar. But when I have cut open one of the suspects, i was not surprised. The switch mechanics can not deliver reliable contact over long time if at all. Thing is, the plastic housing works as contact blade & terminal holder one has to solder on the wires. When the heat comes in the plastics melts, deforms and makes the contacts no longer working. On Amazon some buyers reported three out of ten were dead on arrival. Will try those sold 20 years ago from attic find. similar to those sold by Radio Shack. Finger crossing
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
I sent a reply via email
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 Thanks. Have responded, see the vintage push buttons on picture.
@jmpsavescars2 ай бұрын
Nice saw ive got the same saw 036av with a 046 cyl, carb, piston and exhuast. Ill be doing this same process at some point. Great video too!
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
Thanks! I will look forward to seeing your version. I never looked but maybe the 036 and the 044 are the same family? I got this saw (with a 011 and an 024AV) from a buddy that had a shop put a new top end on the 036. I figured that it would be good to go and the deal was great. Well, a deep cleaning was needed and that is when I discovered the crank end was toasted. So, a new crank was in order hence the video. Check out tinman's saws channel. Good tips there.
@jmpsavescars2 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 same chassis and cases so theyre like a small block chev!
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
Just in case you want to know what LED was used still. The vintagecalculator museum has a picture. The description says 8 segment LED display of Commodore Minuteman 2 Or was it on a US strategic missile command (control computer)? To me it looks the same.
@50sTransistorRadios2 ай бұрын
It's nice to see that the clock still works fine, even though the tubes ended up being dim, as I had expected from the dark color of the phosphor. Hopefully you can find some replacements for them.
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
Yeah they are worn as expected. By some stroke of luck after someone gave me a part number and a link to check out...I have new correct tubes here!
@50sTransistorRadiosАй бұрын
@@JIMO415 That sure was nice of whoever that was LOL. Hopefully you can get those new tubes installed and get this clock back to its former glory.
@markgreco19622 ай бұрын
Thanks Jim
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
thank you.
@hallpet452 ай бұрын
Great old clock..I know ,ive got some off those Tubes...I definitely ava look for them👍
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
Ahh Peter, I actually have a small stock of IV3 and IV6 that I will look at to see if they may work. I think I have DG8 tubes as well. If you have the exact tubes that are in this clock, I would be amazed! I am sure they are long gone by this day and age.
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
For those old clocks I do create a new pcb layout first. Firstly take sharp pictures. Load the pcb foil picture on capable pcb editor like the chinese copy cats do. Then give traces (net) names , print out a net list and see whats connected,,... Lot of work. I do recreate unknown schematics this way. Good luck.
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
Thanks. You probably will see paper and pencil from me lol
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 Like I said earlier, if You need support regarding creating/recreating new old pcb, let me know. For some successfull made replicas see my videos. The elektronika clock pcb rebuild I design just from pulicly available pictures on the internet was almost spot on. Proven good by a later purchased original clock. This was on almost the very first of my videos Second the great looking design of old pcb combined with the new stand and housing, the Optoelectronics 850-4 50 years of MM5314N remake you might remember. Keep hacking. Cheers
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
@@thomasw2509 thank you! I may try to get into a PCB program this winter. KiCad maybe?
@thomasw25092 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 Hi Jim, recently we talked if you want to keep the fun in the game, " Do not enter the enemies territory". KiCAD definitiv IS a sack of burden. NO, no. I'm used to use a program that does electronically painting traces,like I did 50 years ago on paper. The name Sprint Layout. dead esy to use, powerfull enough. It has no schematics editor. Do it like you would do on paper. If it exists take the schamatics or r draw one of your own. Find out how to put components on a pcb. start placing parts, connect them. Thats it. For doing the reverse engineering of the schematics, load the pcb foil below the pcb traces layer. Place the paarts , draw the traces, read back the net list, restore the schematics. Dont know if those exported partlsist/netlists can be imported into the usual schematics editor. On the internet poeple can be found making VERY complex layouts using Sprint Layout. It depends on You, not the program.
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
@@thomasw2509 Thanks. That is exactly the feedback I was needing. Easy peasy is what I need.
@michaelturner44572 ай бұрын
Those tubes do look worn out.
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
Indeed. I neglected to mention the darkening on the phosphor on the segments...
@Enigma7582 ай бұрын
Hi Jim, Such a cool clock! Maybe get the rest of the electronics up to snuff and see how the tubes perform. If it's hopeless at that point, then maybe a retrofit is in order. Just my 2 cents!
@JIMO4152 ай бұрын
My thinking also. Thanks for the input.
@ElectronicsUSA3 ай бұрын
Jim, that's really a NICE clock (a true beauty), and great addition to your fantastic collection. The case is one the nicer ones I've seen among vintage digital clocks. Interesting about the MM5311 - the brother chip of the famous MM5314. Popular Mechanics - a source of clock info I would not have considered. Thanks for adding the quite readable pages at the end for an instant read. Looking forward to the follow up and tube status. Enjoy!
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@jmpsavescars3 ай бұрын
Really cool stuff love the intro
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thanks! This is my other hobby. The intro segment is just a touch of what I have LOL
@Enigma7583 ай бұрын
I love the look of those 70s style boards and electronics, brings back memories. And the wood case too! I also like VFDs, maybe because green is my favorite color. I do like the blue bezel, that's another nice thing about VFDs is that you can alter the color using a filter. Orange gives you yellow, and red gives you white.
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Interesting fact on the other filter colors. Yes, the 70's style boards..... Simple to work on and a beauty lost with time. Hopefully I can continue to dig up more. I do like the orange glow of the Nixie and Numitron tubes but the VFD has a different appealing draw about it that I like. Glad you enjoyed.
@Enigma7583 ай бұрын
Looks great!
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thank you!!
@afxtjet3 ай бұрын
Great vdo! This just now happened to me literally! Fuel spraying out of the weep hole. I couldn't find any vdos explaining why it would do that! You Sir nailed it! Thank you! I will go Edlebrock now as well!
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Glad to help! My install of the Edelbrock I did re-clock the lower portion one hole over. Just read the directions carefully if you do that before retightening the six screws. You may not have to do that if you use a 90 degree fitting and aim it to the rear of the vehicle and lead the pump output tube/hose back and then sweep upwards to clear the ps pump and belt. A little tricky but doable. Out of curiosity, is your pump that failed an older one or a fairly new pump similar to what I describe? Thanks
@TLang-el6sk3 ай бұрын
Would love to see this in operation. A few years ago I did my own VFD clock project with the Archer DT1704 which also is a very early tube. The first version had the "naked" segments without even a support structure, the newer ones had a mica sheet to support the segments. This was planned as a kit, a forum owner here in Europe promised to write a feature about it if he got a clock for cheap, so I delivered while he NEVER did. Bummer! So I still have a few kits left.
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
In time, I will get it going. Probably toward/during winter. I would be very interested in seeing what these kits look like if they are early. Too bad the write up was not done!!! Sorry about that. Was this forum TubeClockDB.com by any chance? I have one Tungsol 1704C with the naked look. It is different for sure. It looks as if the parts inside are floating in a way.
@TLang-el6sk3 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 Yes, exactly that forum. And it's a shame that it was taken down completely instead of setting it readonly. A lot of knowledge has gone lost due to this step. And not everything is archived. If you search for my name as written in my url (torstenlang) and nixie you should find the page. And yes, it's quite outdated - it was originally made so that the target audience (Atari and Amiga users) could visit the website with their native browsers.
@thomasw25093 ай бұрын
So sweet. Shall I make a new old clock from an MM5316 and a bunch of Japanese made Futaba DG1Q1 taken out an old digital desk calculator, I got from a friend living far east coast of in Russia before the stupid counterproductive useless sanctions?
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
there is a schematic floating around online using the 5316 and vfd tubes.....might as well if you get bored. They sat ac current for the filaments works best. It get difficult to find the correct transformer. I have started a vfd build and plan on using two transformers. One will be rectified for the driving circuit and the other will be left ac and isolated for the filament string with a reference resistor.
@thomasw25093 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 You got mail with schematics, pictures of vfd psu
@thomasw25093 ай бұрын
Nice, You did it again. ;-)
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
I did do it again!
@larrwill3 ай бұрын
Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it cleaned up and running.
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thanks! Me too. How's the ground hog these days? LOL
@larrwill3 ай бұрын
😂maybe someday I will post a clock video!
@RanHam3 ай бұрын
I just bought an ese count up timer with the numitrons. I’m going to convert it to a clock
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Great! Good luck with the project. If you like, send me a note if you document the project here on YT.
@RanHam3 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415would you think it would be ok to use it as a full time clock or do you think the tubes have a limited lifespan
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
@@RanHam the short answer is yes to both questions. I say build it and enjoy it. I have been running a Numitron clock built in 1977 that I obtained, changed one tube, rehabbed the clock and it has been going for 4 + years now and it has been good. The clock in this video was going for a year and a half+ then I put it aside. I now have it on the bench doing a modification so it can go the Australia! But yes, the tubes do have a lifespan. A few things can be done to extend their lifespan. They were designed to be run at 5 volts and 20 mA per segment. The 7447 driver does just that. A simple diode dropping chain of two or 3 rectifier diodes can limit the voltage at the tube supply +common rail and really cut back the voltage and thus the current to the filaments. I talk about that in a few of my Numi videos but only briefly mention it in this one. (It is a switch on the back panel with the 2 green wires and two diodes). Another consideration, there is something I read about in searching forums that if using a microcontroller, some programming can be done to keep a 'prewarming" current on the non active filaments before they fire to help keep the thermal shock to a minimum. The theory is that will help with longevity. But if using the original logic as probably found in your ESE, that is not possible. I would also consider keeping extra tubes on hand for sure before they disappear. They are out there if the are the pin type and not the wire lead type. Are they RCA DR-2000 tubes in your clock? They are still found on ebay. A compatible tube is also the DA-2000 (different brand: Apollo by IEE) also found on Ebay....but I just looked and wow! The asking price got real expensive! keep an eye on them...about $10 is what I bought a bunch for in the IEE brand NOS. If you keep the 7400 logic I have some schematics and there is some detail in this video...kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpqoqaqaqKaYia8
@stefanobozzini63533 ай бұрын
You ‘re back with digital clock ! You make me happy …. Thanks Jim Ciao Stefano
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
I am happy too. Thank you for the note and I am glad that you enjoyed it. There will be more! I am still moving a little slow.
@markgreco19623 ай бұрын
Thanks Jim
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thank you. More waiting to be shown and later on worked on!
@jmpsavescars3 ай бұрын
Check the arm with a original old one that you know isnt in the wrong spot even the edelbrock. These days mechanical pumps have trouble with the new chem fuel. Also looks like the crimp is missing or light on the diaphram. Thanks great video
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Yessir! Thanks. Unfortunately, the issues were not related to dimensions nor were they immersed in fuel long enough to have that issue. The problems were strictly valving/pressure on three and a bad assembly on this last one that pinched the diaphragm. The next video will reveal that.
@funkinu22363 ай бұрын
Your a genius, thanks, that’s how me and the boys think
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
Thanks! Great minds think alike
@badjer19833 ай бұрын
Sweet ! Brings back memories of Apollo Launch countdowns!
@JIMO4153 ай бұрын
They are a very unique display. Glad you enjoyed.
@larrwill5 ай бұрын
Wow, what a cool clock! Very nice build!
@JIMO4155 ай бұрын
Thank you! I have since added colons to it and it is a much nicer look that way. Thanks again.
@mikedimov51846 ай бұрын
Well, it's been a while since you repaired this one. Want another display challenge? Let me know how to contact you.
@JIMO4156 ай бұрын
Hi there. I am holding off on electronics tinkering at the moment but I am curious as to what you have in mind. Can you tell me a little more?
@mikedimov51846 ай бұрын
I've not figured out how to upload a photograph. Any thoughts as to how I could get the shot to you?
@JIMO4156 ай бұрын
@@mikedimov5184 if you can share an email, that would work. I refrain from putting my email here but if absolutely necessary, I could if you let me know.
@larrwill6 ай бұрын
Nice video, thanks for posting. Are those two OptoElectronics kit documents scans online? Could you post a link? Thanks.
@JIMO4156 ай бұрын
Hello, thanks for your interest. Do you have an email that you can leave me somewhere? I can then dig up what I have, I should still have them. I just did a PC upgrade and I would have to go to the "archives" lol. I should have the scans and I can email them which would be plan #1. LMK Thanks.
@larrwill6 ай бұрын
The temporary email I created got disabled. I will need to find another way to get the files. Thanks.
@larrwill6 ай бұрын
Got it. Thanks
@MikeSmith-cc4wf7 ай бұрын
Good Lord dude will you quit saying ummm ummm ummm.
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
yeah yeah...ummm it bothers me too. ummm I am working on it. Umm I am trying to help the community, I am not a youtube pro. LOL. This video has helped others. Ummm when you share some content I hope it is better than mine. 11K views on this video alone and in all my others, how does it feel to be the first to contribute a less than helpful suggestion. This was an unedited, off the cuff video put out in rough form because I can't sit very long and struggle with computer time editing with chronic pain issues. Just be aware that one never knows what kind of things people are dealing with in life. In moving forward in life, try to offer with support and understanding in mind :) . Enjoy the rest of your day. @MikeSmith-cc4wf
@MikeSmith-cc4wf7 ай бұрын
@@JIMO415 jackass ... you still got a freaking write ummm
@50sTransistorRadios7 ай бұрын
That Burroughs module is quite interesting, I hope you can get it running someday!
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
me too. should be interesting.
@markgreco19627 ай бұрын
Wow nice stuff
@50sTransistorRadios7 ай бұрын
Looks like you've got the tubes for a very nice 4 digit nixie clock now! I believe those tubes use the same socket as the Z568M and B7971 tubes, and those sockets do pop up for sale on eBay sometimes.
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
indeed. Will be looking
@markgreco19627 ай бұрын
I like the intro part. Peter is a giver.
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
Thank you, new touch. Peter is genuine!
@gregorypeetros10837 ай бұрын
Glad to see you’re back to making videos! Love seeing those packages from down under, good stuff! 😉🦘
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for the encouragement. One more down under unboxing video to do very soon
@hallpet457 ай бұрын
My god,I just updated from Same Windows 10yrs,for me.They stopped updateing.so slow..Now,ssd, lightning ⚡ fast.looking forward too part2.Enjoy👍
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
This new little win 11 box renders my videos in 30 sec to each minute of video. Not bad from what I am used to. I can even still use the antique Movie Maker from waay back on it. Old dog here no new tricks for me...I tried, I struggled. The old unit will serve as storage space and a music box!
@RollingTardis7 ай бұрын
Gotta luv them box fillers. Looking forward to see them big tubes lit up!
@JIMO4157 ай бұрын
AH yes, you are the KZbinr I could not recite on the spot. Box filler from Peter! I think that I will have to light up a tube soon!