Can you tell me please, the better between SV305 and SV205? thx

Mau tanya, menurut Anda mana yang lebih baik antara SV205 dengan SV305?

I know this video is old but there is an astronony tool set for photoshop 30 bucks canadian. Has 4 or 6 iterations of noise reduction. Deep space noise, vertical banding, horizontal banding. These noise reduction tools are very good as my dslr images come out just a little worse then noisexterminator. But nothing beats noisexterminator. But these tool sets are a dream since i foudn them. They have been out for a while. Just thought id let you know if you didnt already have them. And to anyone else who doesnt have them id search for it very easy to search on google to find it. The tool set does have other features that i definetly use but could do a little bit more some of the tools are so suttle that it doesnt even look like anything happened lol.

Amp glow?

Awesome!!!! Took my images to the next level in less than a minute. Thanks a TON!!!!

Thank you, very informative!!!

Do filters fit good on this?

Can someone please explain how the heck you find the "arc sign stretch? Using PS 2024 and I've looked for days and days. I don't have that.

I own refractors and Maks. Maks are fantastic.

I recently bought a SVBONY SV198 Guide Scope, Mini 50mm Finder Scope and had incredible difficulty getting to focus; The poster of this video doesn't seem to have this problem; so maybe a different design.

It turns out that SvBONY produces 5 zoom eyepieces. A $150 3-8mm 6 element zoom eyepiece SV215 with a 56 degree field of view (FOV) and 10mm eye relief. A $40 7-21mm 6 element zoom eyepiece SV135 with a 57-40 degree FOV and 18-16.3mm eye relief. A $40 10-30mm 5 element zoom eyepiece SV170 with a 51-33 FOV and 17-18.5mm eye relief. A $64 8-24mm 7 element zoom eyepiece SV171 with a 56-38 degree FOV and 18-19.5mm eye relief (this is the one you tested). And a $80 7.2-21.6mm 7 element zoom eyepiece SV191 with a 65-42 degree FOV and 18-20mm eye relief (this is the one I bought).

Hello, please tell me your version of Photoshop at the time of processing

Hi!! Do you have a processing video for Rho Ophiuchi? Great image by the way. Thanks.

Hello! Great vid. Made me pick up this scope. I know this has been a while, but how were you able to attach an Astro camera to the focuser I’m having issues fitting my Zwo cameras . Ty.

hello, i dont speack much english i will try to u understend me haha i have a question, i have a camera canon modificated, and the camara change filter UV IR for filter BAADER BCF1 then it filter (bcf1) take all emision H- ALPHA THEN when a take a picture of orion, my camera becouse this filter make see arion only reds and pink colors, non blue non other color. then i would like to know if i can do something about it in photoshop- i try alot things in photoshop , but its impossible, can u help me please can i send u some way my orion picture then u can see what im talking about?

At 2:20, what key combination do you press to get a picture with only one color like that?

Ty so much this got jy guide scope and cam today

I have been researching telescopes to buy for several years, and THIS is the first time this design has popped up (other than in my "why don't they" thoughts)!

When I do this my image is like a rust red. I get some nebulosity but I definitely do not get the pleiades lol

Aaron, did you see Mark’s Shelley use a grey multiplier and divider layer to apply arcsinh stretching in photoshop. Also calibrating your lights with flats and darks would make your processing easier!

At 9.48 mins in your video with a zoom look at the stars after ACR boost of +28 sat and +30 vibrance, there are a lot of blue stars and some whjite saturated stars (even the small stars). Despite this, I will make notes from your video for future reference, as I have lots of problems with star colour. Can you please remind me (us) what colour camera and exposures settings (number of exposures and sub exposure length. Did you use flat frames, darks and bias frames in your calibration. I wonder if you applied flat frames ? Thank you Aaron.

Thanks for this, i heard svbony is a cost effective beginner telescope. Thanks for clarifying how to calculate magnification on the lenses.

Grrat tutorial. I really look forward trying this, once I got my images good enough.. One question: Is the picture after processing big enough to be printed and get framed? Just curious about the quality..

Very helpful - and not too fast in your explanation - I am going to retry my processing.

And your video hasn't been thought through to the end either, the fact that the two mirrors need a very specific distance because both are hyperbolic is completely lost, you can only adjust this with a Ronchi eyepiece on a real star.

Yea, it just dawned on me recently after setting up my new scope, and getting everything working again, that my guiding errors were actually a lot larger than my dithering, and I realised I couldn't even see the dithering on PHD2 because the value was so small, and it was one of those "light bulb" moments that I was slapping myself because I didn't see it sooner! But granted I was also "chasing the seeing" at the time so even if my dithering was correctly set, my guiding errors would probably still have been worse than my dithering anyway! 🤣 Astrophotography can make you feel really stupid sometimes..

Hi, you're thumbnail picture shows SV305 Pro, however you reviewed the SV305. There not the same. CS

For some reason I am unable to do the subtract part, any idea why?

Nice.

Hi, thanks for a great video. When I heard you say that this would be a good terrestrial daytime camera I tried it on my 127 Mak in daylight using Sharpcap, (v4.1) which I'd never thought of doing before. When selected it in Sharpcap, as I normally would for the night sky, I got nothing! No amount of playing with exposure, gain, frame rate, or anything else would get me an image in Sharpcap, so am I doing something wrong here for the camera's daytime use?

Final image looks nice, but the processing is really needs some improvements. Firstly, its better working on an adjustment layers instead applying curves into the stacked image. Later, blending will be greater improved with blend if function. You just need to cut away the dark information from the second image

sir, when i use the curves and histogram stretch my image is turning orange, what should i do? help mee

Hi, friend. a question? I don't speak English and I don't understand the steps to remove light pollution. It seems to say alt+spacebar but it doesn't work. Could you help me? Thank you.

How do i download Archsinh?

Could I ask, are you using any process for following the place you are taking the picture?

I'm going to suggest that when you stack your images, you use the same reference file for all three filters. I uncheck the reference file when I stack, but later on it avoid the alignment issues. Edit. I hadn't read through the comments, apparently it was a common thought. I do appreciate your work though. Thank you.

Just found your videos... I've been in this 'hobby' now over 50 yrs and we all go thru what you're describing. For me it has been verification that black holes do exist... it will suck all the money out of your wallet and bank account if you let it! lol Photography has been the biggest obstacle for me. There are days I want to just chuck all my cameras (only 3 or 4) into the river near me and sell all my scopes and mounts and just get me a 32" dob and just LOOK thru it like when I started out when I was 12 with a pair of WW2 binoculars my uncle gave me.

very educational! thanks, it was difficult for me to see on my screen since you were zoomed out so far...

I owned many scopes. This one is one I regret selling the most.

Thanks for this, just ordered my first RC 6", but have owned the "OCAL Collimation" and understand this works very good? Maybe worth a try?

Ok,Wait,I Know This Is A y/o Video,But You Can Do Deep Space With This,And Im In A Bortle 3/4,With An Evostar72ed,Evoguide50ed,On The Eqm35Pro.

I bought the sv191 zoom for only 27 pounds on eBay great value!

Will it work on a Windows 11 computer?

Right at the 13min mark, after doing the 2pixel blur, when I come back to do the mask stretch...I can no longer see the stretch happening on the main screen. I can see brightening happening in the mask icon...but it's so small I can't really see what's happening. When I click on the layer to stretch that image and just like the mask, the main preview window is unaffected, but I can see brightening happening in the layer icon. Got so frustrated, I just closed photoshop, and said f-it. Literally did step by step. Wasn't using his photo but my own photo of the Veil.

I’m doing this on a budget so Siril and Gimp are my to go to’s. But most everything at my level is translatable. Just many more steps and bouncing back and forth between them. This will be my second Fall season. Last year’s edit had the blow out core. I think I can do this . Great video. Easy speed to follow. Now that I have the basics I can follow a video like this. Thanks

Can you tell how much milliwats laser you have i am also deciding to buy green laser pointer for astronomy can you tell how much millwats laser is good for astronomy

This dude probably has a waaaay larger budget than what the rest of us are working with... So... It's mediocre in his book... but amazing in our book!

NO!!!!!!!!!!! The tilting adapter will do absolutely nothing and is not part of the collimation process. This accessory simply tilts the ccd sensor plane respect to the focal plane, at most it is useful for having a more precise focus for large CCD sensors. But then it should also be used on refractors and all telesopes. The collimation of an RC only concerns the alignment of the two optical axes. The primary for axial coma and the secondary for irregular astigmatism. And as a first operation the distance between the mirrors for spherical aberration. Stop. I never found a correct explanation on youtube yet. The only thing you have to do is find the distance between the mirrors until you reach the backfocus declared by the manufacturer. Do a physical axes alignment using a Cheshire or optical collimator such as the takahashi. and finally correct the optical axes with the star test. That's all. The tilt-thing you can throw away. I'll have to do a real tutorial sooner or later.!!!!!!

No need for a Howie Glatter laser that costs almost as much as the telescope itself. A Cheshire is enough to get it 95% collimated and finish off on a centered bright star. It's also totally unnecessary to remove the mirror assembly. I can do mine in 10 minutes and then 5 minutes on a bright star.

Looking forward to the test images! It's good to see you back.