Thank You

I had on back order at HobbyLinkJapan for nearly a year (back in 2016/17)

Unfortunately so, I was hoping Bandai would of done a decent print run of these considering they are so common in Gundam : Requiem For Vengeance

Thank you so much!

Thank you

Seeing them in the clips for Gundam: Requiem was the inspiration I finally needed, I think I picked mine up in 2016 or 2017

I had it on back order for over a year at HobbyLinkJapan before I was able to buy it, unfortunately Bandai don't re-pop this kit very often, and I've never seen outside of Japan at a decent price :( . Good luck with your search

Thank you, I'll do my best. I hope to have some bonus addons and paint done for next weeks release

Once the Super Glue held they were fine, there are some ultra fine PhotoEtch parts on next episode that were very difficult to get to work properly, again though once the Super Glue held it was fine

You'll definitely enjoy it; I'd seriously consider the cockpit upgrade due to how much is visible and canopy masks

Thank you very much

Thanks 👍

Thanks for the reply, this was built as a gift and the recipient obviously knows his Red Alert lay better than I do as the scheme was at his request. I do have to agree with your thoughts of not wanting to camouflage it but wanting it to stand out

Hello, Sorry for the late reply I've been overhauling my system and only just got around to reinstalling the browser I use for this account. I used AK Interactive Real Color Paint Set German Army 1943-45 (RC047, RC068, RC060) If you don't have access to these Tamiya XF88, XF89 and XF89 would work just as well

@@darkfoxstudios no worries thanks for the advice and there is model kit shop not to far from me so will have a look for the paint

As previously mentioned this whole project was completed in less than 72 hours from start of construction to video publish and as previously mentioned some things were missed, (as you note) tail wheel not in black (in fact while tail wheel assembly not painted), no panel lines, no weathering and I'm sure there is other stuff not mentioned as well. Overall considering time I think it shows the quality of Tamiya kits if that these types of results can be had with limited time frames.

Hi, IIRC cockpit was painted in Mr Color C60 RLM02, External colours were Mr.Color C36 RLM 74 Gray Green, C37 RLM 75 Gray Violet and RLM 76 C117 Light Blue. Nose was painted in Vallejo Model Air 71.078 Gelb

Checks model, checks refences and .....oops yes I apparently missed them. Great pick up

It is an old (mid 1970s) and basic model with inaccuracies BUT if you're a beginner and don't mind such things it is still a good kit that goes together without any real problems, this makes great to learn on and enjoy without spending a lot of dollars

Hi and thanks for the comment and praise, the Tamiya Panther A was chosen as a cheap, fast, easy, basic build where I could concentrate more on doing stuff for the camera than on worrying about fit or overly complicated unclear instructions (read Dragon) etc. I have Meng's Panther A in the stash, if you would like me to short list it for the channel let me know.

@@darkfoxstudios Thanks for the reply. I fully agree with you on Dragon instructions! I would love to see you tackle the Meng Auf A( especially with zimmerit!) . I reckon I could learn alot, especially if its as well presented as this one.

Sorry for the delay in reply. I use a circle template for wheel masking, graduating in 1mm increments. My workflow in apply decals is 1. Make sure surface is at least semi-gloss, apply a clear semi-gloss or clear gloss layer if needed (to reduce risk of decal silvering, some people do, some people don't I prefer to but only if needed - I regularly use semi-gloss paints that don't need this step) 2. Wet decals, wet surface of model with water and apply decals. wick away excess water with dry tissue and/or cotton tip. 3. Apply decal softening solution if desired. If concerned use some spare decals on a plastic spoon or similar surface.

@@darkfoxstudios Ok, thank you

Thanks for subscribing, I know I there has not been anything released in a couple of months but there is some stuff in the works at the moment. As for "rattle on" not my style and while I will be adding in voice overs it won't be much more the subtitles I already have so I hope you will stay subscribed

I use a few different airbrushes mainly preferring my Badger Renegade with fine needle and Tamiya HG but I did most of my learning on cheap Chinese airbrushes and still have one that I use occasionally. A good starter? Depends on budget really, if you're pushed for cash go a cheap airbrush and plan to upgrade when you feel confidant. If you have the money I'd suggest an Iwata Neo, they are a solid airbrush but I don't personally like how it feels so I use it exclusively for metallics where I want a dependable airbrush but I don't use it a lot. If you are fairly well off you could go with any of the medium priced brand name airbrushes from Badger, Iwata, Harder-Steinbeck (sp?), Tamiya or MrHobby. Personally I stay away from any of high end airbrushes especially as a beginner, not really needed.

Thanks 👍

Thank you. My go to PSI is 15-20, with 18 being a good average, this can vary depending on paint viscosity and airbrush, eg close detail work maybe down to 10-12PSI or thicker paint like AK Acrylics 25-30 PSI

Thank you, Hope your tracks went well :)

I hope you enjoy it, build more and grow your skills :)

I generally don't go by a specific ratio as I find there can be a differences between batches or more often with paint than primer if I've had it for a few years (or a decade+) then thinner can evaporate causing a higher level of thinner to be required. With the above mix a 4 parts thinner (MLT) : 1 part Mr.Base White :1 part Tamiya Primer would be a good starting point with new bottles

@@darkfoxstudios Thanks so much. I have a difficult time with white, seems to always be to thin. Combining these two seems like it would be a great solution. I really liked how the bay looked after you painted it. Looked rich, not watery. Thanks again and an excellent job on the build.

Thank you for subscribing, hope you enjoy my future video as well

The specific paint I used was AK Interactives -Real Color RC245 Have Glass Grey, it's a little brown for my liking if doing a true F-35 colour scheme, but I won't be...

Sure thing!

While on the shorter side for a modern jet fighter it is still longer than the F-16, and is certainly no spitfire in the looks department.

Thank you, hope you enjoy the rest of the F-35 build

How would you like to use it? For editing and or reposting elsewhere please feel free to contact me via email (provided on my about page under contact). If you simply wish to share unedited via a link to here on another platform, please do.

I can't reply you on Gmail, but I can reply you in this comment. Well, I'll use for video for editing purpose. If the editing (video) is done, soon I Will send it back to you. Thank You !

Thankl you and Glad you enjoyed it! :)

Thank you Jihan. Modelling as as much a therapy as a hobby for me, combine the two and they go a long way to helping to be being dedicated

@@darkfoxstudios most welcome dear. This channel is too underrated. Guess I am lucky I found it.

OOPS, yes you're right the landing gear is backwards. Me bad it's what happens when you're time poor. Fixed now but to late for video. Cheers :)

Thank you, Part 4 will be coming next week. My apologies, it has been delayed due to workbench upgrades

@@darkfoxstudios no worries dear

Thank you, it is certainly an interesting experience building an armour kit in this way. There are certainly some advantages.

Thanks so much!

Thanks!

Awesome, thank you!

Awesome! Thank you!

Thank you for the comment, hoping to add even more in furture

Thanks for the visit

I found that out post decaling when I came across an image of the actual aircraft when looking for weathering inspiration and you can just see the USAF on the wing, unfortunately I didn't have access to any suitable decals at last the minute