I just come up with the designs and if I like the result I will use it as an template in the future.

@wurfttobias cool. Thanks I have been thinking about making my own I am a woodworker myself. Great stuff by the way

Since I finished this project years ago, I can't remember the exact number but I remember that I have answered this question at least once in the comments.:)

Guter Tipp! Danke dir.

Thanks, Derek! I just replied to your email.

Not sure exactly which tool you're referring to. I explain all the tools I use in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKPGpJ5-Z6aNfc0

You're welcome. Thanks for sharing and enjoy climbing on your own holds

Yes, I have milled holds on a CNC. It's shown at the end of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6usd4p9aL1kerc Still working on separate video that only covers how I have milled holds on a CNC.

Thank you very much!

Thanks! I uploaded this video a couple of years ago, where I shape more basics holds: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKGmqXx4asmAq8k

Thanks, bro! I'm good! Just not much time for shaping right now. Hope you're doing well, too!

Thank you!

You can add more grip by layering epoxy floor paint with super fine sand, the same way like texturing the plywood for climbing walls. I've never colored any wood, I'm just using different species of wood. If you're using wooden holds indoors, they typically last much longer than conventional holds because conventional holds are at some point polished. With wooden holds, you can always use a piece of sandpaper and the holds are almost brand-new after sanding.

That's awesome!

Thanks! Do you mean another video, or another pair of holds to sell?

@@wurfttobias A video of course!

@@zynthrex1 There are a couple of videos in the pipeline and I've already started editing. But it will take a while... :)

I haven't done it myself but typically it's done by using multiple layers of epoxy floor paint and add some really fine sand in between. Basically the same way textured climbing walls are typically made.

I prefer a 6 to 10 mm wide blade with 6 to 10 teeth per inch.

It depends. If the CNC is running in a workshop with other noisy tools, you should only build something to keep the dust in. But if it's running 12 hours every day and it shouldn't disturb your workmates/family/neighbors, it will be worth it after a few days.

I have used both. A 4 inch belt sander is definitely useful for smaller holds, but a 6 inch wide belt makes a huge difference.

Thanks for the Reply I'll definitely go for this 6"

Sounds like a great project. Unfortunately, I have barely any experience with finishes, just tried oil on two pairs of holds. I don't think you can maintain the wooden texture with any finish that protects the wood against humidity. The open-porous structure of the wood makes it breath and absorb some of the humidity of sweaty fingertips. This makes wood unique when it comes to climbing holds.

RS Components: nz.rs-online.com

@@wurfttobias oh thank you! What was it called? Mass Loaded Vinyl?

@@dantok neoprene rubber

Thanks, Marco! This is still the mini carver. It might look a little bit different because the video is cropped in?

@@wurfttobias thank you mate! I saw you using the mini carver in many proj and today i decided to bought the complete mini carver set! I think it will improve my workflow when i am about to remove a lot of material during the shaping phase of my holds. Thank you so much for sharing your huge experience! 👌🏻

@marcostorchi2752 That's great! I hope you will enjoy the process of learning to shape with a new tool!

Thanks!

I started using countersunk bolts because all the wooden moonboard holds use them as well (so I assume the majority of the wooden climbing holds sold worldwide). I think, for climbing holds it doesn't matter that the countersunk bolts only have a load capacity between 2-3 tons instead of 3-5 tons. There are advantages for countersunk bolts: self-centering, larger contact area (less stress for the wood), reduced protrusion. Advantages for normal bolts: cheaper, easier to drill I personally prefer the look of countersunk bolts and don't like to use additional washers. In my experience, countersunk bolts are also less likely to break holds made out of softer wood because of the larger contact area.

Thanks, appreciate it! The laminated holds should be stronger and basically impossible to break. Furthermore, I can use much cheaper, thinner boards.

That's awesome. Thanks for sharing!

No, you don't need them when using countersunk bolts. But I would recommend using them in combination with normal bolts.

There's nothing complicated going on here. You might wanna look up the definition of "overengineered";)

😂🙈

Thanks, appreciate it!

Thanks for your feedback and input, appreciate it!

Thanks, appreciate it!

I've oiled the top surface of a few holds in the past, just for looks. Wouldn't recommend oiling the grip area because that makes them slippery. I also sand the holds when doing a complete reset. They are basically brand new afterwards, but this won't work with oil or any other finish.

No, I don't think you need them when working with medium to hard hardwood. Since I'm using countersunk screws (plus optional countersunk bolts), it doesn't make sense. Any sort of washer will increase the local pressure and stress on the wood.

@@wurfttobias thanks men your videos helps alot on my project

@@parkour457 you're welcome!

Depends on the conditions. If the wood stays dry, it will last at least for years (haven't tested it any longer), if it gets wet, it's like with any other wood: it darkens or will get grey. So I guess if you seal it, it will stay like that. By the way, the whole process of turning purple happens naturally. It just takes longer (typically days to weeks)

Dang, I was just about to speculate about other woods that would become richer in colour with heat, but most don't naturallt do it over time!

Thanks, Markus! I appreciate it.

Cheers!