JPT50LP. 200x200 lens for this particular job.

I have a 50w fiber, so let me try it. thanks

Yep :)

Yeah, what he said. I think it might be easier to make software to recognize standard, non-valuable coins. The list of standard, regular coins is small, but the quantities are vast. (I mean pennies/nickles/dimes from todays date, 2023, back to year 19yz all fit the same template, except for the year and are not 'valuable", ) If it does not fall into these generic groups, it would be kicked out for the human to investigate by hand. IDK. Just wingin' it.

My laser do not support Q pulse so I really cannot help you with it. :(

Draw the shape around your engraving making it negative. Use engraving pass to cut into the metal (settings depend on your engraver and material). After that I use annealing pass (low speed, high frequency, low power). I can give only general directions since different engravers would use different settings and my settings are unlikely will work on your machine. I would google color engraving settings for your laser and select one that will produce darkest tone.

Nope. I have ballast box up front and without backhoe it would not be able to pick much of weight. Front pillar tank is not being used right now. I have one on backhoe for all hydraulic operations. I think this configuration is well balanced.

Use engraving pass to cut into the metal (settings depend on your engraver and material). After that I use annealing pass (low speed, high frequency, low power). I can give only general directions since different engravers would use different settings and my settings are unlikely will work on your machine. I would google color engraving settings for your laser and select one that will produce darkest tone.

it adds a bit of time on ender 3 id do more to be safe

On delta printer my average z hop is 4mm. On Cartesian printer it is less. It really should be depended on material. Less curling plastics can have smaller number. High curling may need something higher. Thank you!

UBER! This should help solve my issue as well and I need to build a Delta style asap, PS love the name! @@UtterlyMad

it is 232 brass. 50 cal should be not much different process.

Hi! I will make video explaining my settings for rotary. They should work on any machine. As for 270 angle - it is only relevant if you use Y axis. For X axis it should be zero. I will let you know when this video will be done. Thank you!

Indeed was about to say the same, the ( one at a time ) setting is very good at doing multiple prints at the same and it completely avoids the issue this guy is having, I used it recently when i was printing cable chain parts for my new Ender 3 and due to the amount i needed slapped 20 of them in cura and printed but got a lot of stringing even with good retraction settings resulting in prints that needed way more clean up than i wanted, then found the one at a time setting and it worked flawlessly with perfect prints, only down side is if you have a small bed you have to reduce the print quantity due to the head movement grey box, in my case i went from 20 all at once to just 9 in one at a time.

@@EQINOX187 Yeah, One at a Time works better on my Ender 3 Max Neo. They should let us override the clearance setting. Some of us are smart enough to print a few tall items on the same bed in an arrangement that won't produce gantry collisions.

Yes. First pass is to engrave, and second to fill with black gloss finish. I use up to 3 passes - engrave/clean/finish depending on material and type of engraving.

It depends on your patience. I would say below 4 - good deal. Above 5 - is a bit high unless it is in really good condition. IMHO...

JPT 50 LP 50W with frequency range from 1 to 600

It is 2.5D laser/manual Z axis/EZcad2. Although, my results are much better now :)

Absolutely! If I need to monitor engraving, I use tablet that shield me from direct light and showing progress on the screen. If I don't need to monitor - I just use something to block light so I can move around safely.

Indeed it was very much internally wrong when I took it apart! I've bought JD214 that has same transmission and transferred axis with differential into newer transmission.

Indeed they did (actually gears were destroyed). I will try to make video on repairing transmission. I am still happy with this little toy!

I was able to improve my results on black but didn't try on blue. Actually, blue is second best color to engrave. Should not be difficult. I would presume frequency 37-40. Power depend on lens and speed. From my experience, there are two type of these blanks engravings silver(aluminum) gloss on color (available only on black and blue) and white on color (available on all except from purple). I need to do more experiments on blue... I just don't use this color. But my laser if 50W...

@@UtterlyMad Thank you. I would be using a 70 mm lens for detail. Thanks for the vids mate!!

@@UtterlyMad Thanks for the info. Gives me a head start.

Video on engraving blue cards coming in a few hours! Hope it will help!

I will try to do some experiments for blue. Looks like it is popular color... I just don't use it. Will post results once I will run my experiments.

Video on engraving blue cards coming in a few hours! Hope it will help!

Right under your pen settings on the right after frequency. Start TC (set to what you need)/Laser Off TC (100)/End TC (set to what you need)/ Polygon TC (100). TC settings are different depending not only on speed and power, but on type of engraving you do. I may do video on it someday. It can be tricky.

@@UtterlyMad Thank you very much for your help hope you do that video on TC one day, and thanks again for sharing your knowledge with others!

I left it at default of 100.

I found some on ebay. Search for: microscope stage

Once I will make some - I will add link to the description. May need some time to get these done. Thank you!

@@UtterlyMad Please, let me know!

speed 1000, power 5-10 (used 7), Freq 35. settings for black cards only. 50W laser. 200mm work area lens.