crankbuster

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@patroy3774 3 ай бұрын

Wow I will fabricate this tool thank you love your animation keep up the great work.

@crankbuster 3 ай бұрын

Thanks for your interest. For 1968, the B25 Starfire was an incremental development of the 1967 C25 Barracuda. The decompressor was deleted but the bracket was not changed. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYPRioaeaLxrd9E

@Greeves 3 ай бұрын

Beautiful animation. Is the head steady bracket correct though? It has provision for a valve lifter that the B25 didn't have. Looks like a B50 bracket.

@grahamseward1388 Жыл бұрын

Any more detail on this, I have a BSA B44VS in a B50MX frame and interested in any fork upgrades that may be possible

@chuckhollingsworth4186 Жыл бұрын

Don't forget the shim on the crankshaft to take up free play

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

If you want to shim the crank for end float, put the shims under the roller bearing kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHLRenqFeax-absfeature=shared

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

Really helpful view of 6h horn. I’ve stripped mine down and have now got it working but is held together with bolts. Does anyone know where I can source the correct type rivets? Also and completely unrelated, I need some help on getting hold of the satin silver used on the wheel hubs, back lights etc on the 71 range by BSA. Any thoughts welcome.

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

I know that the filter canister is painted in a hammerite type finish but I’m trying to establish the colour. Your cad drawing shows it to be blue. Is that correct? Hope you can help.

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

www.bsaunitsingles.com/item.wws?sku=19-4589 Don't have a color code, but there is a NOS one.

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this, really interesting.

@digschopper9321 Жыл бұрын

No seal between damper and slider?

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

Just watching the oil filter cad drawing and wondered where you found the filter part number and replacement element number. I have a British filters box from 1973 which has a white printed label on the top showing 99-1179 and as part of the box it states oil filter element part no 19-4590. If you have any information on this can you set it out in a post.

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your interest, the numbers were printed on the filter bowl and correspond to the numbers shown in the Triumph T25 illustrated parts list. The BSA gave the parts thelr own numbers but the unit was not specially designed for them, British filters already had it as a stock item, for hydraulic plant I believe. I think 99-1179 is the element together with a new bowl seal, 19-4590 is without the seal.

@vicktor440 Жыл бұрын

This video is a lifesaver having a 68 trophy 250 and most of the innards are missing. I have been scratching my head trying to make any sense how it goes back together Thanks.

@user-wc8sz5cb7y Жыл бұрын

JUST WOW. and Thank you

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

I’ve not seen a filter cup with a transfer or sticker it before. Was this how they were manufactured?

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Yes, as manufactured, by British Filters, it was pad printed like that. The BSA may have had it painted?

@aaboardservices-dt6wf Жыл бұрын

Really helpful

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Thanks, glad you enjoyed

@niff2966 Жыл бұрын

Would love to get Drawings & Dimensions. I have the BSA B25 which was equipped with the Triumph/BSA forks. It has the Twin leading shoe brake. The brake is good but the fork damping is bad. Was toying with putting the Dow conversion into them that i made for my BSA A7SS.

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

For 1969, BSA used Triumph forks to go with the twin leading shoe brake. The Triumph forks were said to be cheaper, lighter and better damped. The design is quite different, shuttle valve in place of the rod damper.

@On_Dias Жыл бұрын

Very good, I have been watching you long ago, can you. I have a C11 250 , can you do some like that? i would love it

@TheJeffersm Жыл бұрын

I'm in the middle of rebuilding a Triumph Trophy 250 TR25W so this is wonderful. Thanks so much!

@stevedefeo Жыл бұрын

Same. I just had the timing cover off to put in an electronic ignition. This would have been very helpful.

@dr.andreww.mintojnr.1059 Жыл бұрын

Nice, very nice! I shall use this video next time I change my '71 b25's oil filter...

@valerykaraoglanyan4454 Жыл бұрын

Nice

@joeciechanowski4650 Жыл бұрын

got to give you two thumbs up on the videos. i for one, know the amount of work you're putting into them. good job!

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment, enjoy!

@thomaskirk3548 Жыл бұрын

Thanks CB, the spectacular BSA animations have been perfect for me. I ride a 69 B25 Starfire. Have spent hours watching these while consulting a copy of Rupert Ratio. Grateful and lucky, I tip my hat, cheers.

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment, glad that you found them useful.

@vicktor440 2 жыл бұрын

Good Job.....

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

Thanks, enjoy!

@tristinsway4217 2 жыл бұрын

That’s wrong the engine is running the wrong way 😉Do what I did & Jack the back wheel off the ground remove your primary cover & points cover start the bloody thing & you will see that the primary chain runs clockwise not anti clockwise as your animation shows If you go to the points side you will see the auto advance cam & bolt rotate anti clockwise it’s important to know this so you can advance & retard your ignition Before you comment Jack your back wheel off the ground remove your primary case & points cover spark plug & turn your back wheel by hand but first select second third or fourth gear & you will be able to see that when you rotate the rear wheal in the forward running direction that the bike travels you will notice the primary chain rotating clockwise this is opposite to what people think the engine rotates that means when the engine is under acceleration the primary chain tensioner which is spring loaded is fluctuating under load🇬🇧😉

@crankbuster Жыл бұрын

????

@burhanimeterrepairing3071 2 жыл бұрын

Varry Varry good job sir me Gujarat India se METER repair VALA

@holmgrown 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks that is the best video I have ever seen

@TheMamonti1 2 жыл бұрын

fantastic! Wish I saw this before now. I have a suzuki that I got everything working but the needle? Needle moves and returns to zero smoothly by hand but won't budge when using the cable? magnet spins freely with the cable but bell (needle) won't move? any ideas?

@crankbuster 2 жыл бұрын

Thank for the comment. Sorry I don't know anything about the Japanese ones. But these work by the spinning magnet drag coupling into the disc connected to the needle. The gap between the two is critical. The gap can be adjusted by the calibration screw. Good luck.

@TheMamonti1 2 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster Basically the same, however the disc at (5:20) on your video is a bell. wish I could attach a picture. the magnet spins inside the bell which should spin the bell. I don't see any adjustment for it unlike yours but I agree air gap is the key just how to adjust it is my problem. I thought maybe the magnet had lost some strength but appears to be the same when compared to another speedo. Thanks again.

@John-on2dx 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent

@gjvgc9853 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome video. Any of how to lock the AAU on the single to set points?

@crankbuster 2 жыл бұрын

You replace the washer under the central retaining bolt with one with a larger hole so that the cam can be clamped by the bolt. Rotate the cam by hand to full advance and clamp in position. Remember to swap the washer when timing is set.

@gjvgc9853 2 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster thank you! After locking the AAU I set the points gap correct?

@crankbuster 2 жыл бұрын

@@gjvgc9853 This is for timing, with the engine in the full advance position 37° BTDC the points should be just opening. You set the gap when the points are fully open.

@gjvgc9853 2 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster got ya. So it’s set to full advance to set the points just beginning to open? And then the points gap at full open ? Thanks again

@melyeates4317 2 жыл бұрын

this is a great idea,wish they could do complete bike manuals like this.

@jssnsahahaha1831 2 жыл бұрын

Yeah

@dull_boy_274 2 жыл бұрын

this is great! thanks

@Sunnbobb 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for doing these. That's a lot of work. I've shared the videos with the FB Group "Triumph TR25W owners" of which I'm the Mod. The members all very much appreciate the hard work.

@faizansaeed 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for sharing all of your videos. This is really helpful to alot of people. Already forward the channels link to Classic and Vintage motorcycle club in Pakistan.

@harwoods11 2 жыл бұрын

I really must now rebuild my starfire. It's been 40 odd years waiting 🙄

@robertclarke3789 2 жыл бұрын

Exceptionally interesting. Well done.

@keithhoughton4308 3 жыл бұрын

I just learned more in 5 minutes than in the hours I spent with the manuals. What a useful contribution to the restoration community this will be for years to come. Thankyou for putting in the hours it must have taken.

@khushiram6495 3 жыл бұрын

sir trochd pump share kejeya thankns

@mjh5437 3 жыл бұрын

Useful thanks.

@thomasrose7713 3 жыл бұрын

Lovely work !

@stephenabel897 3 жыл бұрын

At 0:42 the ignition advance is removed. What tool is required to pull it from the taper?

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

The mechanism has an internal thread for use with a special extractor tool. Without the tool, screw in a fairly long ordinary bolt and wiggle it off by hand, a few light sideways taps on the head of the bolt usually frees it.

@MrJules8888 3 жыл бұрын

That was fascinating! Thank you.

@daveco1270 3 жыл бұрын

What do the 3 flat head screws underneath do?

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

They hold the chassis in the casing via their vibration isolation rubbers.

@daveco1270 3 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster thanks. That's a cool graphic. I recently got an old Triumph motorcycle with a similar speedo. One of those flat head screws was lose so I tightened it a bit...then my speedo stopped working. I'm trying to figure out what I did. I unmounted it from the top triple tree bracket to move it out of the way to install new forks then I put it back on. Next step will be to remove the speedo cable and make sure it's turning properly.

@pierrickllaniau3392 3 жыл бұрын

Beautiful as usual, I am lucky enough to have a 1968 model that I love. Why videos only on the BSA starfire ? How many models were produced between 1968 and 1970? .Stone Hic FRANCE

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the comment. Why the Starfire?.... Because it's there! ( in the shed). Models included Bantam, Starfire, Shooting Star, Thunderbolt, Lightning and Rocket 3. The forks changed for 1969 to the Triumph pattern (The BSA owned Triumph from 1951) The Triumph forks were lighter, cheaper, better damped and allowed the use of the heavier twin leading shoe brake.

@harwoods11 2 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster Were these forks fitted to the Bantam?

@derekcollins1972 3 жыл бұрын

Wasn't that supposed to turn clockwise to advance the timing?

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your interest. On the BSA twins, the points are on the idler gear between the crank and the cam. On the single, directly on the end of the cam itself. Triumphs spin the other way. Hope this helps.

@derekcollins1972 3 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster Thanks for the reply. Neat video

@monzajunior7337 3 жыл бұрын

Another useful one, thank you.

@monzajunior7337 3 жыл бұрын

Brilliant animation - do you happen to know which pins are connected to which, in the different key positions? I can find lots of schematics that shows what pins are normally used but nothing (yet) in the way of a functional diagram. Thanks anyway.

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

Key Anti-Clock 1---3 Vertical 2-3 Clock P1 1-2 Clock p2 1-2-3-4

@monzajunior7337 3 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster very cool, thank you! KZbin can be brilliant sometimes.

@monzajunior7337 3 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster I'd almost worked it out (don't have a switch to hand), I wondered if the vertical position was a null (nothing connected)

@crankbuster 3 жыл бұрын

In the OFF position 2&3 are connected to short the ignition circuit (immobiliser)

@monzajunior7337 3 жыл бұрын

@@crankbuster Thanks again. I had been wondering if I could use it as a key-kill switch for ET (Electrex World) ignition, so forget the lights and make pin 3 earth, pin 2 is ignition, pin 1,4 n.c. - then vertical (key out) is kill, clock P1 is run (key in) but clock P2 is also kill (key in)? . . it might work at that. Or just by a double-pole switch that's made for the job, but a Lucas switch looks original :) I can see no way to switch lights if clock P2 is 1-2-3-4 since one terminal has to be earth to make the kill. At least with ET ignition the bike will still start if the battery is flat ...

@lanceskelly6796 3 жыл бұрын

Clearly this was a labour of love. Nicely done!

@robertbeighter6336 4 жыл бұрын

Wow, I got a little teary sorry, my B25b is sitting in the garage unloved, needs a complete rebuild but it was my first motorcycle. Such an Iconic engine, 10:1 compression ration too so she got along.

@pierrickllaniau3392 4 жыл бұрын

I have been the owner of a 1968 model for 3 years. These videos have been a great help for me . A big thank you for your work . Pierrick France

@simonineaston 4 жыл бұрын

Awsome - my first motorbike was a Triumph Trailblazer - same engine... thank you so much for putting all the effort into doing these animations. Excellent work!

@victorlewis8129 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I love you

@simonineaston 4 жыл бұрын

Excellent! I had one of them (well - same motor - a Triumph T25, branded as the Trailblazer). Lovely little bike :-)

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