Can you tell me about how much was that build by everything how much it cost

I recently purchased the Victron 75/15 charge controller. I am a bit confused about the “VE.Direct socket with jumper link”. As I understand it, and your video seems to confirm it, this is a data communication port. I’m not using it, I’m just using the built in bluetooth on my phone. Should I pull out the small plastic bit or just leave it in place?

Good job Brother, I gotta stop by and see you all! It has been a crazy summer for me! De WV1Q Semper Fi and Can Do OORAH

Do you still have any onboard 12v batteries or is the 12v system running directly off those two 24-12v DC converters?

Great balanced system. I like the fact that you added a generator to this system. We're thinking of removing the 5,500w generator from our motorhome to save over 200 lbs. That Champion is quite a bit lighter than a built-in MH generator and being dual fuel, it can easily be plumbed into this RVs existing propane tanks - sweet. With only 2,000 watts of solar, they can fall back on that generator to get them through long periods of overcast days and rainy weather - a smart choice. I like the long, thin footprint of those Victron batteries too - perfect for under a bed alongside a water tank, like on my coach. If I were to go with a pre-built battery, that, the one I'd choose because of the ability to select the size BMS you need and change it separately from the cells. We live in our coach FT, so we added 5,020 watts of solar to ours - a 4,400w array on the roof to charge our 16.4kwh 48v battery and a 620w liftable array on the side to charge our 7.1kwh 12v battery, avoiding the need of a 48-12v converter. We also removed the rear rooftop A/C and mounted an EG-4 28.5 seer-2 mini split heat pump on the back of our coach. It only draws about 1/3 the power of our front rooftop A/C and provides efficient heat too. Even running it 24/7 most days we still haven't needed to run our generator in 2 years, living strictly off grid. Of course everyone's off grid electrical needs will be different, but our system seems to have worked out better than we planned, meeting our needs perfectly. It has already paid for itself and given us much more flexibility as to when and where we can stay. We boondock out West 90% of the time, but we're on the East Coast now, visiting family, where boondocking places are rare. So instead, we're staying in a spacious, no-hookup site at a convenient RV park for only $100/mo., saving us $500/mo. off their normal rates. It's good to have options.

So then wire size on a lithium charge controller should be bigger then on the dc to dc.

Very helpful for my split phase programming. Thanks for posting.

Is that dycor self leveling or the non sag formula?

I grew up there That’s awesome

I always have to explain it to people like driving a manual shift transmission, all the easy start does is make the take off very smooth but the same amount if energy is needed to maintain the speed (or temperature in this case) Good clip!

I've spent all night trying to figure out programming these new inverters in split phase since VictronConnect isn't working for me. Your video is by far the most helpful I've found, it made it easy. Thanks a lot!

How much does a setup like that cost

How much up grade like that ?

Because your isolator has large diodes in it, no chassis battery power is allowed to go to the house battery and vise versa. Only alternator power is controlled through the BIM. It has provisions to manually ( you put in a switch) to allow chassis battery charge while on shore power, or house battery, whichever is currently available. The isolator blocks job is to prevent batteries stealing power from one an other , unless you flick the switch you added or repurposed " Boost Switch ( if equipt). Many systems already have a BIM, but this one does something special, by pulse charging the lithium House battery to save the Alternator from damage.

I went on your website and don't see any listed- are you still selling them?

Good job. That's a nice sized system for a trailer that size. If the owners are serious about air conditioning off-grid I recommend a high efficiency mini split heat pump. We installed an EG-4 28.5 seer-2 12k btu mini split on the back of our coach and love it. It makes efficient heat too. It uses about 1/3 the power of our front rooftop A/C. It only uses about 1.7 kwh overnight. We are FTers who live off grid most of the time, and we can power our heat pump 24/7 off of our 16.4kwh 48v battery charged by 4,400 watts of solar racked on the roof of our MH.

Can you please explain the scenario where the advantages of split phase versus parallel and vice versa would be desirable? Thanks!

Nice work Justin as usual!

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Hi Justin, Great video and very informative! You did a great job of comparing the three lithium battery brands and explaining why you install them in RVs. I learned a lot, and I'm sure others will too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My system is working like a champ!

Thank you. That really helps when I need to use the assist. Especially when my kid wants to use the blow dryer. 😊

That's freaking genius!!

That was explained so well. Excellent video.

I need help. Im trying to charge a 300 ah li battery's with my chasis battery. Ive decided to go with a dc to dc controller. And a switch in place of ignition. But my question is, does the dc to dc charger protect my car battery? Or do i need something else. I want it to.charge my li battery but not drain the chasis battery. I will long be running a 12v car fridge, and possibly a 12v rooftop ac

Hi Justin, just watched your video on Go Power inverter/charger (excellent - I am a subscriber now) and I am hopeful that you may be able to help us. We have the identical inverter/charger and we also have a Honda eu2000 portable generator. I hooked up the generator as our shore power last week in the hopes that I could charge up our batteries but what I found was the Go Power remote panel was switching off and on continuously, and as a result I wasn't getting any charge to the batteries. The panel would make a very audible "click", green light would turn on for a couple of seconds then turn off with green light going out. It would click again, green light off then turn off. Any idea what could be happening? Thanks....Peter

Excellent information!

two thumbs up!

I have a TPO roof and am looking at mounting a 200 watt flex panel using screws with a piece of coroplast to protect the roof. I'm hoping the newer panels are made better and the coroplast will keep it cooler.

Bravo Zulu Brother! Oh Congrats on your upgrade too! De WV1Q

Great teacher, nicely explained ! I am trying to wrap my head around all the various components of a Li setup in a van and this really helps!

Does that set up near cooling fans during hot days? Specifically 100 farenheit and above?

How do you go about tying in the 50 amp shore power/generator switch onto the victron?

Bravo Zulu SeaBee!!! Semper Fi and Can Do OORAH

You explained this so easy! Thank you. I now have it up on my VRM!

WOW! This looks amazing!

I've got the exact same camper. .

Excellent video! Thank you!

Thank you so much for sharing, 🙏 I'm expecting my second Multiplus II tomorrow ready to set the two up in parallel. Only one doubt after watching your video, will all parameters be sent simultaneously to both inverters or do we have to repeat the process twice? Again thank you 🙏

How do you set floating return to ground on second inverter

set boost factor to 1.1

I'm doing a conversion of a 2008 Phaeton at this time. I have currently installed 3 bifacial Eco worthy solar panels (195 watts each) and likely will install an additional 3 panels in the future. They are not adjustable angle panels. As far as the lighting issue, when I purchased my coach all of the ceiling puck lights were halogen and I replaced those along with many others with LED lights which has brought my total amperage down to about 3.8 amps. Currently I am awaiting my Epoch 300 Ah battery to arrive as it is backordered. And also will shortly order my MultiPlus ii 12/2 120 volt inverter/charger. Questions for you, I see the Cerbo GX readout is located over the drivers seat. How far is that from the Cerbo GX itself, and what special was done because of the distance.

Great job

Keith Subscribing !

You're absolutely right. They can even be a fire hazard. Besides, they are expensive and have a shorter lifespan, increasing their cost per total kw produced even more. I have 2 conventional solar arrays on my motorhome. My small, 620w array mounted on the side of my coach, over the bedroom window, is liftable to the correct angle for month and latitude for optimum production. This set-up also allows the maximum amount of cooling air underneath. It also serves as a nice window awning that practically lifts itself with a pair of gas struts. It's easy to clean too, standing safely on the ground. We've been living with this set-up full-time for the last 5 years and it has worked great, especially after we were able to replace our old lead acid golf cart batteries with a 560ah 12v (7.1 kwh) LiFePo-4 battery I built from 8, 280ah prismatic cells. I'm in the middle of expanding our solar system right now. We discovered that we love boondocking. In fact, we boondocked for 8 months straight last year, so are adding a 48v 320ah battery and a 4,400w rooftop array to complete our electrical independence. We will soon have 8, 550w panels racked 15 inches off our roof which will allow plenty of cooling air underneath and providing a nice sunshade for our entire motorhome too. It will be finished next month, weather permitting. I finished the roof rack, haven't mounted the panels yet. They are huge! I'm top balancing the 16, 320ah cells now, which just arrived today. We've removed our rear rooftop AC unit and will be replacing it with an EG-4 28.5 SEER2 12k Btu mini-split heat-pump for 24/7 heating and cooling without needing to rely on our generator, except for back-up use only. I'm building a low budget system for its size. We had to forgo all the high-end Victron components and Battleborn batteries for a cheaper, yet still capable system. By doing all the work myself (a pretty daunting task for a 67 yr. old who's not in the best shape) I was able to build this system with a total of 5,020 watts of solar, 23.5 kwh of batteries (the equivalent of more than 18, 100ah Battleborns) and 6,000 watts of 110v inverter power, all wiring, battery monitors, breakers, charge controllers, etc. (including the high-efficiency mini-split) for around $11k. It would easily cost twice this much if I used name brand components and 3 times that if I had to pay someone else to design and build it for me. Your professional work is beautiful though. I sure wish I could afford to just pay someone like you to design and build my system, as your work is amazing. I just found your channel and subscribed. All the best!

The manual is very clear that it monitors hot 1 only! Typical user error. Not the manufacturers problem. Liberals simply can’t take responsibility for anything!

My RV IS in the shop now and I’ve purchased lithium batteries but the shop told me installing those will ruin the Firefly system and burn the alternator it’s a Tiffin Open Road. So with this I can charge the battery while driving but the FIREFLY System is the light switches do you know anything useful I can look up to understand what they mean by it not being compatible with lithium.

will this work for a generations of the 3000 watt multiplus

I still feel at the end of the day the DC-to-DC charger is less stressful on the alternator. I wish Victron would come out with a 12v charger that’s a bit higher than 30 amps.

That done set up, what is it worth, parts list?

Part 3?