this sounds like a great application! So glad you like the idea. From my experience with runny ash glazes, I'd say you might need to make volume of the sample big enough to dip a tile in the sample and coerce it to run, to show you it's character. Flat tiles could be painted, but might not alert you to the most runny results that you can (probably) exclude. Good luck. I'd love to hear how it went.

@@marcmancuso :D .. added you on insta. will tag you when i do it!

thank you! I have more dandelions and weird humor than I know what to do with.

try it! it's fun!

I know, right? it's not as hard as it looks....

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks so much!

thanks again! try it out and let me know how it goes. When the proportion of the height to width gets over two to one, you might need more tips than this video explains.

You are very welcome!

You're so welcome! I think long videos aren't easy to circulate or sit through, so I'm glad you made it to the end. I make them a little shorter when I remember. Hope you make some large pieces soon! Let me know how it goes.

¡Gracias! Disculpe, pero mi español es demasiado básico para entenderlo completamente.😁

yes and thank you! This answer has tips on how to fix a particular bowl that has a shelf. (A longer answer discusses how it happens and how to get out of that habit.) Think of the entire pot as a stack of five or more hula hoops on top of a hocky puck. The shelf is a really fat hula hoop. Just above it, is a thinner hula hoop almost slipping off the outside. Here's how we fix that particular bowl.

The idea is to support the outside to keep it from even further collapse, while we work from the inside to continue thinning only the thick part. My hula hoop idea is to get you to work only at the level of the ledge and not move up "to the next hula hoop." Support the clay on the outside and lay fingers on the lowest part of the offending hula hoop. Try to make it just a little thinner, but not as much as half. Holding onto the outside of the pot makes the clay shift upwards and thinner, not outwards and thinner. At any time, use a rib to tuck the s-shaped wall into something straighter. Try that and see how it goes.

Thank you so much for this tip. I have continued to experience problems here and there, but after reading this, I’m excited to get back into the studio to give this approach a go. Appreciate the feedback!

I know, I know! But that's one material I've never tried to use on the wheel. Maybe I should!

thanks! I'm not sure where it is now, but I do remember eating some lovely curry from it. Probably.

I'm so glad you like it! Thanks, and good luck!

You're quite welcome. Ask me anything, anytime. Good luck!

Glad it was helpful! If you have questions about things, please just drop me a line. Good luck!

My pleasure!

I'm glad you got useful information out of it! Keep that wheel spinning and good luck! Let me know if you have any new questions.

I'm sure it is an excellent bowl! now go and make many more!

You are very, very welcome! I'm grateful you wrote. Good luck. Send questions if you'd like.

Thanks so much!!

Have you thought of going to a studio and taking classes? They can tell you what you are doing or what you need to do.

Thanks!!

Thank you! Exciting to hear of your experiments! Have you heard that fibers of cloth or paper can be added to the slip, as reinforcement while drying, preventing cracks? Lots of articles. Downside, the more fiber you add for strength, the less the skip looks smooth. If you dig for info and come up empty, let me know.

I liked making the video! Anchoring the hands is so important... thank you for commenting.

Awesome news! Thanks for writing. Keep going keep going. Your friends will be lucky with your bowls. Remember that everyone will want to stack things into one another. And also, remember how deep cabinets tend to be.

I know the feeling! I'll try to make a video of that. But until then, try reading this for tips: First option: Do you have some metal tools called "pot lifters"? They're good for most pieces where the base still on the wheel is less than 8 inches. You always pass the wire, then slightly insert the metal tools under the piece where the wire passed. Hold both while turning and lifting up. Usually works! Second option: If you don't have the tools, many people use a thin pool of water to slide the piece sideways off the wheel onto a board held level with the wheelhead. But, I find that beginners have difficulty with this. Good luck! Does that help? www.amazon.com/Kemper-Tools-Lifter-inch-wide/dp/B00A6W457Q/ref=asc_df_B00A6W457Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242033841575&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15992262726091013936&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018405&hvtargid=pla-458773080953&psc=1

Yes, yes it is! I think I made it blue in color.

You're very welcome! Hope it helps!

So glad you liked it, AND commented! Thanks, and good luck making bowls.

Hi Marc--thanks for the comment! Absorption is absolutely important to avoid with such small amounts. I used wet clay, while I wait to develop things with non-absorbent materials like actual plastics. Wet clay doesn't absorb much, but annoyingly wants to ADD particles while mixing. Leatherhard clay, or dry greenware would be even better, especially if you sprayed it with mold release or something similar. It wouldn't last very long, but my bait for users is that it's worth it to scout around with something that costs nothing.The colors are only in the grooves for a minute or two, regardless of how wet the clay is. Not much will happen that would throw off the overall gradient. To get percentages, measure the length of the entire groove, and then one of the colors.

@@marcmancuso Makes and love the idea as I am WAY to lazy to do a traditionally triaxle color blend.

@@marcd4992 stick around. I was a little shocked myself when I figured it out. I did it the "old" way exactly once.