no, tube + powersupply of 100W or more... the k40 one is already rated for 100W max output so u might not need a new power supply. however a 150W powersupply might be required if u want to use the new tube higher then 70% consistently and not run into cooling issues... also u need more glycol .... bigger bucket for cooling, and maybe stronger pump then an aquarium one.

Intake air leak, vacuum is what opens the fuel valve, te valve itself, low battery, low cranking speed,, spark plugs, ask ChatGPT! Would love to hear if he helped,,

Are you letting it run for 10 min every week? Exercise mode reminds me every week to take out the gargabe for pickuk the next day. When you need it is not the time to troubleshoot it. After Huriane IAN, we switched over to a 10K gas generator, not becuase the generator failed, but becuase we didn't reliably know how much fuel was left and our neightborts were hooked up to us to run Cpaps...

You don't need me, look who wrote it (at the bottom) ChatGPT! He writes everything now for me, website intro, ads selling my chess sets. its great, just ask and he will come up with just the right tone and intensity! It the new best thing! Thanks for watching! all of you should give a thumbs up and subscribe. free on you ends, no emails. but I get good marks for having subscribers! Glad you enjoyed it!

In all seriousness, I would like to try. Send me a synopsis (or a copy of the video) of a video you would want intro-ed. I would love to try. Who knows, we might be on to something. If nothing else, it might be humorous.

NO. you need something. At the very least, a shop vac. There was 1/2 trash can of shavings just from 32 small chess pieces. As for the noise? My dust collector (Carl, the night watchman -2 hp cyclone w canister) lives outside, a 4 inch hose passed through the wall, Very quiet out there, but sucks out all the heat from the shop.

You don't have to own Aspire. V-Carve (Not sure about desktop version) Pro consumes 3-D models in the form of .stl, .v3m, .3dm, . .skp, .rlf, .3ds, .asc, .prj, .x, .dxf, .lwo, .wrl, .obj. I bought the 3-D models from etsy in the form of downloaded .stl files for around 6 bucks, C'mon! You're not afraid of a little learning curve? 'Sides, that's just something someone just made up. As for up and running? It takes longer to setup than it does to generate your first rotary g-code. You do have to turn it in in the pendant or whatever controls the machine. They will explain all the details of getting up and running (and true). Chad at Axiom tech support is a wealth of information. I have had some really strange problems with mine, but working together we were able to find tht the drive sprocket had lost its set screw (slipped on the shaft, but tight enough to turn, but with no torque) Let me know if I can help!

Wow, thanks!

If you pause the video at 1:50, you can se the sheet I used to calculate the angle. The saw was set at 45 degrees, Wouldn't it have been cool if I said "Here, Hold my beer" just before I made the cut? If I had to do it again, I would use a belt sander or disk sander. My saw is a 12" slider, also. I think these pieces were 4" tall. You would have to try it to see if 5" would work. Also, you could cut part way, then finish with a Japanese pull saw (Dozuki). Let me know when you get out of the hospital! BTW: "This video is intended for amusement only, not a recommendation on how to do something dangerous!" (disclaimer so you don't sue me if it goes badly.

And she puts out plenty of heat on those cold and dark (no power) winter nights! (If you huddle behind it!)

Does not sound good! I am assuming the "CTB" is the controller board. Also assuming, that in 2002, the units were "dumb". IE, no display, just a row of red lights. Overspeed/No RPM Sense may have been lit in this case. Also, Over Crank could have been lit. My unit controls its speed (also hertz) by watching the output of the stator. No output would keep cranking. It would not know it was already running. Over crank comes on when it has tried 3 times and never got a signal (output power at a required hertz). [I believe this is what you experienced when you said after a few times of the restart cycle, it shut down for good. Power off/power on to get it going again?] How to quickly test your stator: Open the breakers on the unit, then remove top cover panel. Try and start the unit, just for a sec. Watch for a red led on the box on the right. (the box on the left is the battery charger.) No red LED, no power to the control module (CTB?). With the unit OFF (!), check continuity of the 2 legs (windings. Each winding puts out 120 volts, 180 degrees out of phase. Together they output 240 volts.) Check each of the 2 fat wires (might be black) going into the circuit breaker to the common neutral (might be white). Each, hot to neutral, should be around 20 - 30 ohms. Maybe even lower. Then check to each other, (black to black) Should be open lead, no continuity between windings. This is the manual page how to test www.manualslib.com/manual/807129/Generac-Power-Systems-Corepower.html?page=35 Gotta ask: Why did you want to change the 90 amp breaker? And what does CTB mean? I do understand the trying to “See what this baby will do” impulse is. First run of the house test, I HAD to try the A/C! Email me! I want to hear how this ends!

Natural gas connection. Need a new regulator for backup propane. Tell me about what you acquired? Did you get the transfer switch with it? Was it running? Or did you need to work on it? Mine is I think, 2009 vintage. Plain Jane, but works as advertised! Are you keeping yours? Or did you get it to fix up and sell? Thanks for the comment! I would love to hear more about yours, if you plan on installing it and what you are going to do about the wiring.

@@DragonwoodDesigns is your unit water cooled ?

The blades I used for the video were Freud (part number: D208M or SD208 depending on where you look on the label), 8" (printed on the blade), and they do measure 8-1/8 inch as you say. But the blade brake can handle the extra 1/16th (.0625 per side). Might have been tight, but in the end, required clearance was met. Probable could have handled blades 8-1/4? Just guessing but the dado blade brake (break!) works fine with Freud blades.

@@DragonwoodDesigns I agree with you. I found I could clear the brake, but am tight on the required clearance. My saw is the contractor model. So, I run in the bypass mode and it works.

@@williambullock6127 You're lucky! If you can run in bypass, you don't need to get the extra brake. That was the first thing I tried. Found the PCS 3 hp errors out if no blade. Would be the same thing as a smaller blade, ie an 8" dado, Yes, I did have to adjust the position, almost to the limit, but the supplied thickness gauge fit as required for proper operation. Just remember to set it back when putting on your regular 10" blade. If you don't, it will still run, but due to the increased distance, more teeth are going to pass before the blade stops and drops. Changing a possible scrape to stiches.

I use Freud and I just adjust the 1/16 inch (radius) difference. It works fine.

I’d never ever have a saw/stop machine in my shop. For what you pay for one a tech should come out for free$$ every time we need to use a dado stack. For gods sake who has that kind of time to tie up a shop. My powermatics and grizzly’s are just safe enough for us.

How about the logic of paying 3-4 thousand dollars to not have the option to use the saw the way you want? The bypass system should be a complete bypass turning it into a regular table saw. Instead the saw decides if it’s going to let you bypass.

Glad I was able to help. Any questions, let me know.

I wanted to know if the dado brake was absolutely required. I didn't find anything on Y-Tube or in the manual on whether this would work or not. Was there something in the manual that I missed? My bad if I did. I wouldn't mind making dado cuts with the safety disabled and spend the extra $100 on wood or supplies. The fact that the saw detected no blade near the brake and errored out proved my point (to myself). I think I even tried it in bypass mode (brass key on side). Still, no joy. Once the $100 goodie was added, the saw works as expected. I have not had the saw trip on either brake, although after cutting 8/4 hard maple it just shut off, mid cut. I cycled the power and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then it did it again. I reset and finished the job and have not had the opportunity to cut anything that thick since. Things have slowed down since the p-demic. Thanx for watching, tho. It was a fun video to make!

@@DragonwoodDesigns Regardless of which brake you have installed, the saw will not start without a blade in it. You proved nothing. Put the standard brake in, put the dado blade on, put it in by pass and try to start it. To clarify, I have no idea if that will work... But that's what you said you wanted to try in the video but you didn't actually try it.

@@bswinter2 This was my thinking as well.

@@bswinter2 It wont I tried on my PCS. I wish I could run 7 1/4 circular saw blades on Sawstop because of the narrow kerf. But they won't work either even if I use the brake for 8 inch dadoes. Kind of a bummer for me.