"total loss" = no alternator. There are no lights, horn, etc. so just needs enough electricity to fire the plugs. removing the charging system reduces drag on the motor which means more hp at the wheel. Belt drive replaces the OE primary chain, which is heavy and inefficient. Also easier to maintain.

@@veritech3712 the primary drive isn't total loss that would be the ignition (presumably battery)the primary drive is belt and air clutch, I have the same setup on my trident (Norton clutch).

@@veritech3712 what battery does it run.

Agreed. I've actaully got the RGM outer/inner gearbox with kickstart delete. Have not installed yet b/c looking to get a proper paddock starter before removing the kick. definitely needs to go though - I find the arm sometimes catches my boot when downshifting.

Dunstal rearsets, with a few custom bits.

@@veritech3712 Dunstall or Donald Pender? Looks good just trying to get a handle of foot pedal length!

good eye - yes, some of it is Don Pender. I have the Pender rear brake assembly on my bench as well, but have not installed yet. @@jwang3108

I highly recommend the HPRA course (I'm one of the instructors). It's always a fun weekend and a great way to learn the track. That said, it's not actually required that you complete HPRA to attend a track day. Either way, feel free to reach out if you decide to attend and have any questions.

@@veritech3712 whoa, whoa, whoa .. haha ... whoa .... You just said that there is a way I can get around the fact I have to have taken the course in order to ride on that track? .... lol ... tell me more. Just to give you a perspective, about 5 years ago when I first found out about the race school, I paid in full for the course, but never showed up. I was later told that if I don't have my ducks in a row, it's best not to go. If I drop the bike, I need a way to get it h ome, so Ill need a small trailer and tow the bike, there's no gas or tools out there, so you have to set the bike up for the track, tape up glass, wire tie important bolts, etc. And then I was told that if you aren't going to race, then you can only access the track on "track day" which is a Friday, everybody I know works on Friday, so I just never showed up for the course in May. So, could you tell me more about actually riding, not racing, just riding around that track this year? Right now I am off work, so I can drive out there anytime. I wish I could give you my email address on here, but I don't know how.

@@TYRONE_SHOELACES Best thing to do is join the SARL General Discussion group on Facebook and then send me a message. Short version is: yes, trackdays are usually (but not always) on Fridays. Riding your bike to the track is not advisable for lots of reasons but people do it (usually only once and then they realize it's a PITA). You really want to bring bottled water, fuel, some snacks, etc. Tools are good, but most of us have pretty extensive toolboxes and are willing to share. As far as bike prep goes, the requirements for a trackday are minimal, race prep requirements are much more involved. For a trackday, just need to cover lights and mirrors (takes 10 mins) and replace coolant with "Water Wetter" or just distilled water. Normal coolant has propylene glycol in it which is slippery. Slippery things on track are bad. You don't have to lockwire anything for a trackday. You also don't need to "set up" your bike for a casual trackday. For just getting your feet wet, all that matters is that the bike is in good working order - tires are not shagged, chain is not too tight, not leaking anything, brakes work, things aren't falling off. You would need a 1 piece suit (or two piece that zips together), boots that cover ankles, gloves that cover wrists, full-face helmet.

straight 850 motor with the R10 head and some well-sorted race pistons, gudgons, etc. Has some nice Hyde valve springs. Running standard amal 32mm carbs (Premiers of course). Biggest gains are from the crank, which was lighted and balanced by Steve Maney. Combined with the Maney exhaust, it spins up higher and faster than I'd ever attempt on a stock motor.

good! testing over the summer went well, no drama. Objective now is to get it race-ready for spring. Need to sort out a belly pan and half fairing, having trouble finding mounting hardware. primary cover brackets keeps shearing from vibration, might try rubber mounting of some sort. front forks are "fine" but not satisfied with them yet. Might try removing the fork brace as I think it may be binding. Otherwise will have to fashion some spacers to increase pre-load on the springs, see if that helps. Only other thing on the "wish list" is a larger rear sprocket to dial in gearing. Not easy to find for a drum brake, but looking for a work-around. Other than that, just doing the usual off-season maintenance, dreaming of summer!

@@veritech3712 sounds good, summer seems eons away at this point, know what you mean.

Thanks! AMP has no shortage of ... "character"... but we love it anyway. 100% club-owned/operated, tonnes of history and you won't find a better group of people anywhere.

owner was a navy guy named Mike, but in later years (late 90s) I believe he had some younger guys riding it for him, perhaps Andre was one of them?

I don't think so, the builder was a gentleman from NS

What's the point in making it all the way to mid-life if you can't have some fun? Be sure to come by the paddock and say hi next time you're up; there's always coffee and a spare chair available!

Dramatic elevation changes, all corners, narrow, terrifying. Either Jack Canfield loved riders or he was trying to kill us all off. The younger Canfields assure me it's the former...but I wonder about it every time I pass start/finish and look down into T1.🤔

Worth a shot but I suspect the forks are binding and that's forcing weight on the front. Might lose the Hyde fork brace and see if that frees up travel/takes weight off the front tire.

have not ruled that out but for now, the engine is running so well I hate to mess with it too much. Next time it needs a re-build, 920 is definitely an option that will be considered.

agreed but this one doesn't have a primary chain - did some fiddling with the shift-rod and seems to have sorted the issue!

8.7.22. Looks BaddAss™️ & sounds Intoxicating©️🇬🇧. Reminds me of Grattan RaceWay ….. Nor’east of Grand Rapids Michigan🇺🇸

@@veritech3712 Yes, if that helps, it's usually a sign that the clutch is dragging a bit and that puts more tension on the first gear shifter than you'll experience on other gears. Is the clutch throwout lever inside the gearbox set up properly (cable pull in line with the cable, actuating ball in the correct position, everything inspected for proper metal finish and smoothness)? A less likely but possible issue is that the circlip on the mainshaft under the clutch bearing is crushed or dislodged from it's correct position. The factory book says 70 Foot Pounds for the clutch center nut but that's way too high for the small circlip which has to carry all the load for locating the clutch center on its bearing. Another less likely but possible source of problems is setup within the gearbox outer cover. The hairspring or shifter pawl being out of perfect alignment or adjustment can make for rough shifting (of course, that usually shows up on more than just first gear if it's a problem but it you try all the "easy adjustments", you might want to check it. The "Old Britt's" gearbox technical page (maintain by NorthWest Norton Owners Club) is a very clear help for setting up a gearbox to avoid shifting issues. www.nwno.org/resources/OldBrittsWebsite/gearbox_a.html That's a great sounding Commando engine. It seems to pull strongly at all revs. Congrats on the great setup. Enjoy the ride!