thanks mate!!

Hi, yes you need to clean it before using it for the first time because it can still have manufacturing oils etc. I think with mine i got a free grainfather cleaning agent. But if you didnt get that, you can use something like PBW or Oxi Clean to do it. Make sure to clean the counterflow chiller and recirculating arm by recirculating the cleaning solution with the pump for perhaps 20 minutes.

The beer is carbonated. I would turn the PSI up 24hours before you do it. Honestly though i dont use this anymore because a counterpressure filler is superior and zero carb loss.

thanks for tip! happy brewing

Thanks mate, glad it's useful.

docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1K5cimuFrgHHaCDzUgX0dDXskm1WwAEdlv7dWbJIEwQU/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks for the kind words - i had fun making these videos.

is this yeast really neutral to avoid producing esters and phenols in this temperature?

You can indeed use any hope any anytime - i think traditionally people would use low alpha as the finishing hops and therefore they tend to be regarded as the aroma and flavour hops, not the bitter hops. So back when i made this video, i was just following this traditional understanding. Indeed nowadays people are doing all sorts, some high alpha hops have massive flavour and aroma - many modern IPAs use them throughout. The more traditional understanding is explained by John Palmer "There are many varieties of hops, but they are usually divided into two general categories: Bittering and Aroma. Bittering hops are high in alpha acids, at about 10 percent by weight. Aroma hops are usually lower, around 5 percent and contribute a more desirable aroma and flavor to the beer. Several hop varieties are in-between and are used for both purposes. Bittering hops, also known as kettle hops, are added at the start of the boil and boiled for about an hour. Aroma hops are added towards the end of the boil and are typically boiled for 15 minutes or less. Aroma hops are also referred to as finishing hops. By adding different varieties of hops at different times during the boil, a more complex hop profile can be established that gives the beer a balance of hop bitterness, taste and aroma."

It's a pseudo lager with Kveik :-)

@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 You Ferment 1 o 2 week?

@@Javallini for this one i move to my keg after 1 week. The Kveik is usually done after 2-3 days but i leave it for 7 days and then move to keg. You could actually start drinking it on day 7 but i find that the taste is best after another 7 days in the keg. So 1 week ferment and 1 week conditioning.

Everything you said is correct. I've since moved on to pressure transfers.

@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 Cool! I'm working on that myself. One oxydized beer was enough to make the switch.

Hi Ben, this was some time ago so it's hard to recall but i think i got through a pack of 6. I think a better option these days is to use a sodastream canister with a mini regulator and adapter - together with something like the blichmann beer gun. I'm also now using a fermzilla so i can pressurise the fermentor so the whole process is completely oxygen free.

Great to read, thanks. Yes I'm based in Geneva!!

Mash Water: 17.19 L Sparge Water: 14.87 L Total Water: 32.06 L Boil Volume: 28 L Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.044 Mash Temperature - 65 °C - 60 min Mash Out - 75 °C - 10 min

the full recipe can be found here: web.brewfather.app/share/L8MHVXSQO01iiN

@@abremnath Thanks for the info. I have downloaded to my Brewfather account and will brew it in the New Year when I have drunk some room!

Hi mate, I am indeed situated in Geneva but with Covid and a pregnant wife we are isolating to be safe. Great to know another brewer in the city!! I bought my grainfather from Brau shop that i'm sure you know about - i am very happy with it!!!

Hey I bought one during Black Friday. Let’s brew together once the Mexican beer virus is under control. I have a two year old so we’ll have things to discuss 😂 let’s exchange numbers and we can be in touch. Greetings from Carouge

thanks!

From what I understand, it's heavier but it's not the same as separated liquids that would have to be shaken up to be mixed, it's very easy to disrupt and mix 'air'. I agree, as long as you do it quickly and try your best to reduce exposure then you should be fine if fermentation is still ongoing - i think the bottling day is the biggest oxidation risk. Since moving to a pressure fermentation vessel and kegs I've had zero problems of oxidation that i did struggle on a few brews with buckets and bottles.

haha yes bottling is a lot of work!! I've moved on to kegs and converted a fridge into a two tap kegerator. I also have a Blichmann beer gun so i can bottle up some beer to give to friends if i want!!! I still keep a stash of cap style bottles to give away.

Thanks, this comment just made my day!! I think this method of all grain brewing is a great way to start and I'm happy that I started this way. You get to learn a lot from the processes without a machine automating everything. I live in an apartment so there was no way to use a burner with gas cylinder but found that my gas oven hob with all 4 hobs on was enough to reach boil for 20-30litres of wort. It may take you a little longer to reach the boil but it's definitely achievable - you can put the lid on leaving a gap to allow the DMS to escape - just be careful to not to get a boil over!! You can set your thermometer to alert you when the wort reaches the 90c's so you can start watching it and stir to avoid boil over. I do now have a grainfather, fermzilla fermentation tank and a kegerator but I am very happy that I started out cheap and basic to learn - plus i was able to make beer whilst i saved up enough money!!! Good luck and happy brewing, cheers.

@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 I'm in the process of trying to buy a second hand US 10 gallon brew kettle! I was hesitant at first, because I realised that 10 US gallons isn't the same has 10 imperial gallons that I am used to here in the UK! But after thinking about it, it will work out perfect because I am planning to go away from plastic home brew pressure barrels, and go to cornelius kegs next year anyway, and the most commonly available are 5 US gallons! Thanks for your response, looking forward to watching and learning more! Cheers, Neil 👍 😊

@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 Hi my friend, though I would let you know that I managed to picked up a stainless steel Bayou 10 gallon US brew kettle ready to go on ebay for £88.00! It is fitted with a half inch ball valve, thermometer and volume sight glass. Now for the chiller and mash tunn. I am planning to make my own mash tunn out of a cool box, what size do you recommend I make? Also, what size submersion chiller do you recommend I buy? I'm planning to stay with 5 gallon batches of beer! Many thanks, Neil.

@@MrNed09 Hi Neil - nice job picking up the kettle, it sounds spot on. I believe my mash tun is a 35 litre capacity cooler - which i've found to be a good size to leave me some head space when dumping the grains into the water. Basically just look at what your usual mash volume will be and go perhaps 5-10litres bigger. The immersion chiller - you could measure the height of your kettle to see how long your chiller needs to be. Mine can sit at the bottom of my kettle but i found i'd be moving it up and down to try to chill quicker. I now use a counterflow chiller with the grainfather which works great if you want to get a pump and pump your wort out of the kettle into the fermentor.

Cold crashing for a few days before bottling would drop a lot of the hop debris out. I've moved on a fermzilla and dry hop without a bag - so I cold crash also.

This is an interesting idea!! I've not experimented with hop teas. You've got me thinking of temperatures of hopstands and what impact it supposedly has - do you think a hop tea at 82c would be the same as a dry hop at 20c? I know brulosophy did an experiment with 78c and 89c and couldn't tell a difference between hopstand temps.