bravissimo

Excellent information! Thanks so much for sharing.

A++ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Best ever. Still little too much mulch though. _Nurseries only consider Producing masive amounts of fiberous feeder roots._ *Not if they grow radially outbound.*

How do you keep the deer off????

How often should this be done?

Can you cut the roots to have 3pants has of just one

Bro just spent the weekend planting 1 tree :)

Very helpful and informative video, thank you.

Using manual tools guarantees damage to roots. The tool goes in and when you connect with a root it's too late. Why aren't you using an AirSpade® or an AirKnife® The pneumatic excavation tools design for root diagnostics is how we do this.

Many years in the future there will be some poor SOB stump grinding that tree cursing the SOB who put those rocks in the hole.

he has a very sharp shovel

I use the "Elen White method " which calls for digging 3 feet hole in depth and in diameter and so far has worked with remarkable results. Also the hole should be rectagular nad not circle.

Never Pull The Tree Out Of The Pot From The Trunk

He said SW side of property for June shade?

Holy moley, that's very labor intensive! If i did all of that I'd never again plant tree.

I have been a landscaper for 22 years and have planted thousands of trees from tublings to 90" rootballs. This is a good video and good advice. It also applies to contaner plants and on b&b trees you have to find the flare. We always plant everything a little high, survival is based on good planting skills but more importantly for homeowners watering correctly, drowning and not enough water can identical.

Always consider how large the tree will be when full grown. Although a good video, the tree is planted too close to the house for when it's full grown.

You took too much off . A cross branch adds uniqueness and fun . Birds of heaven benefit as well! But very good video 👍

What are the odds the homeowners ever got to enjoy the shade of this tree from their deck? Slim. But I'm all for planting trees. Mainly for future generations to enjoy...

Also, the 7 trees I planted are about 4 to 5' tall, and I assume they are about 2 years old. They were well-leafed and even had fruit growing on the peach trees (just 1 or 2 on both). Should I prune them after a couple to 4 weeks, or leave them alone for the first season? I should remove the immature fruit and flowers right, this first year, for sure? Thanks!

I'm in Western Colorado at about 6,500 feet elevation, zones 5/6. It usually doesn't reach under 0F, but occasionally will touch -5F for a short couple of hours. This month I planted 7 fruit trees that are about 4ft tall, from #5 buckets. 3 apple (2 varieties), 2 identical plum, and 2 different peaches. They are all within 50' of each other. I bought these locally. When I find them, I'm going to plant 4 more fruit trees, 2 of each pear and "fruit cocktail" trees (plum, nectarine, peach and apricot) within 20 feet of the first 7 trees. I am concerned with proper pollination as this has been an issue in the past with my garden. I do what I can to attract more bees by putting sugar water in the yard that feeds the humming birds too. I'm wondering if the sugar water is counterproductive though...and distracts the bees instead 😆. Two questions: 1. Why are some saying that pollination is best between two different varieties of apples, pears and plums? Why can't the trees be the same variety to pollinate each other? 2. I plan on keeping the trees under 10 feet tall, and making the young branches grow more horizontal than upward to make them bushy and easier to access. I've read this also makes the trees stronger and grow faster. And if necessary I can cover them easily on those abnormal deeper cold spells. Have you experienced this, or tried any methods to make them grow outward, more horizontally? Thanks! Chris

Guess this channel went dorment they haven't posted anything for over two years now.

I subbed because you opened with music from the Doors!🤘AND... he knows his stuff👍

Good idea to cut the circling roots off. An alternative to using the spade, is to use a saw and create a box form for the "root ball."

So aggresive!

Your camera person should get close up of root flare after planting. I use yard stick or other straight tool to eyeball trunk/root flare during and after planting

Good job. I have planted hundreds of orchard and landscape trees, I agree completely. If someone wants to skimp make the cleared area smaller but otherwise, excellant.

Great valuable information. (Set playback speed to 1.5 to hurry things along.)

Why is it that no-one ever mentions the paint mark that is in the trunk from the nurseries? I asked a nursery what the paint mark is all about. They explained to me that it indicates the shrub or tree that the paint mark points to the south. When planting your tree, make sure the paint mark points to the south. If you don't,, the tree is confused by its new orientation, and takes up to 3 years before it actually begins to grow properly. This makes sense to me cause you could imagine how confused you would be if one day the sun rose in the west!

You demonstrated measuring the tree's root ball height to the proper girdle level. You should then demonstrate measuring the depth of the hole that is usually obtained by laying the shovel handle across the level surface and measure off of it to the bottom of the dug hole to get an accurate depth.

he measures everything, is he am amateur?

Do not let soil sit on those blue tarps long. They break down and shred. One of my beds is covered in tiny blue pieces of plastic. Never again.

10 10 10 is the worst, most wasteful and polluting fertiliser.

I have always dug down twice as deep and have always used a high quality soil. My trees have always thrived. Every arborist I've spoken to also suggests doing the same thing. There's a lot here that I definitely don't agree with.

What's a root flair look like????

Will the ground eventually fill back in over the root crown?

Thank you, gor making this video.

Thank you very much for the advise and expertise. Respectfully suggest to improve the quality of the video. Thank you

Very good information, too bad the audio and video quality are so poor. As a Certified Arborist and Landscape Inspector, I can't tell you how many trees I see improperly planted, especially too deeply and staked improperly. I don't know why landscapers like digging such deep holes. I'd rather see a tree planted a little shallow and mulched up to the edge of the rootball than planted too deeply.

Its fun how he throws the props across the yard when he's done with them lmao

Plant it high and it will not die, plant too low and it will not grow.

Trees love their brother sisters and cousins ground up into mulch around them! It's like a family tree to help feed and protect them. I agree with most of everything you did. I would say not to use dyed mulch and to add some compost around the outer circle you dug out. It will send roots out that way. I always add a thin layer of pebbles at the compost for air and additional water to gather. That be about it. I love cutting the roots and tearing them out of plastic pots. My Living Soil

I wouldn't haul off the sod. I dig my holes deeper and layer the sod, upside down, at the bottom of the hole. This puts native top soil below the root ball and this layer holds water really well. The roots will eventually reach the sod, and by then it will be completely decomposed and ready to feed the tree.

Soil knife is a called a Hori Hori. Japanese origin

It's been 11 years since this video, do you have access to the property to show us the progress of this tree?

Great education, thanks!

Great instructional video. 👍 The most important point is NOT planting too deeply - the tree will literally suffocate over time if this is done. The rest of this video , especially the potion of cutting roots is debatable. The thought behind this is in creating a larger root mass, the tree shall become stronger over time. Have done this, as well as just teasing the roots - with great results.

Great job!

Suddenly buffering circle.....

Way too much work. The way I do it is to make a hole just a little bigger than the tree ball, put the tree in and fill the hole with water. Add soil around the tree until I have a slurry. The slurry will compact around the tree when it drys. After drying a little while I plumb the tree. After it drys I add more water and soil until the hole is completely filled. Then I bring my mower with a hamper full of grass and weed clippings ( about 3/4 yard), dump and spread it around the tree. This kills the sod and provides fertilizer over time.