All systems are different, and there are many systems. This particular system is called a panel floor. The bottom layer of plywood - with the pads attached, are floating and cannot, or should not be fixed to any surface - as they contract and expand over time. Fixing them to any surface would impinge upon it's movement and cause major problems. The first layer goes from non hoop wall, to non hoop wall (the 8 foot length), and is staggered on a 4 foot stagger per row. The second (top layer) goes from corner to corner on a perfect 45 degree angle and is stapled - using a staple that is equal to the thickness of the two sheets total. In this case, 1 inch, and you'll need a staple every square foot, and every 6 - 9 inches around the perimeter of each sheet.

I would refer to the building plans provided by the architect, as the specs required for your project will be listed in that document. Follow the specs as provided there, as they may differ depending on which geographical location you are installing your floor, as well as the requirements desired by the customer. Good luck!

@@FLOOREDTV thank you for the reply

It would depend on which products you install. You would need to contact the company whose products you install. Depending on the jurisdiction, they could likely point you in the right direction.

Thanks for the info and the reply. Happy Holidays

I apologize that my response took so long, I have been traveling the past few days. I would contact Carl at Croft-Beck floors in Salt Lake. They generally do larger, commercial projects, but since it's winter, and that's usually the slow season in flooring, they may be able to fit you in. You can look up their website to get their info. They are one of the finest companies in the business. Good luck with your project, and thank you for reaching out.

We follow the specs that are laid out by the architect. In this case, there were no expansion gaps as this floor was in a dry climate. Generally, you only need to add expansion gaps in high humidity climates.

Driving a lift on the floor within the warranty period can void the warranty. This is usually a two year period. You can drive a lift on these floors if you use 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood, laid opposite of the long direction of the lift. This spreads the weight between two sheets - two wheels per sheet, spreading the weight out on 64 sq. ft. But don't be fooled, many people have been killed on lifts on these floors when the wheels broke through, causing the lift to tip over when fully extended.

I've repaired numerous floors that lift operators damaged when they went through the floor, and on two occasions, the person was killed.

Thanks

If you don't like it then go watch another channel. The metal stays!

@@FLOOREDTVlet him know man!

Yes it is.

I just didn't have anyone to help me at that time.

Thank you, I appreciate that! I'm laid up right now with a back injury, but should be putting out some new episodes once I can sit down long enough to edit them. Have a great day my friend!

Unfortunately I do believe that wooden sports floors are a dying industry, with the exception of professional and college level floors. All I do is wood, no synthetic, can't stand that stuff!

I'm not on Spotify, just KZbin, SoundCloud and Bandlab.

This is also a Robbins system. They are custom made channels that have a pad included inside each channel. Each channel is pinned to the concrete every 2 feet. Plywood is 1/2 inch thick.

This is a Robbins system. 3/4 inch plywood on a 3/4 inch pad installed on a 45 degree angle, with 6 brackets on each sheet drilled and pinned to the concrete.

Thank you!

Two layers of APA rated, 4 ply 15/32.

It depends on the system specs, they're all different.

I'm installing plywood on top of concrete, do I need to anchor every sheet or every other. We're not going back with gym floor,just a rubber floor over two sheets of 1/2.

@@michaelferguson3725 You'll need a 1/2 inch thick pad/foam for your first layer. This will go on top of the concrete but below the first sheet of plywood. Otherwise the floor will make noise when you walk on it. The plywood doesn't have to be pinned it can float. The first layer of plywood goes long ways wall to wall (opposite of the hoops). The top layer goes on a 45 degree angle from corner to corner. You staple it together using 1 inch staples. Staples are 1 inch leg, and either 7/16 or 1/2 crown. Always crown the plywood down like a U or you'll have deadspots.

@@FLOOREDTV Thank you for your help.

What straple gun are using and where are you getting your strapless from. The only one I can find are 2in

Yes there can be. It depends on how many times the flooring has been sanded. If the top plate on the hardwood still has enough height to be resanded again then yes it does. Most old flooring has at least one sand left. Good luck!

There's tons of systems to suit almost every factor considerable.

10,000 sq. ft.

@@FLOOREDTV We can do it in a week.

Interesting opinion. I've been using that same compressor for over 5 years with no problems whatsoever. 🤷

Staple it to the subfloor on 9 inch centers.

the 2 layers of plywood are nailed down to the concrete subfloor, or drilled, depending on if these guys are paid hourly, lol. Then the maple flooring is nailed in through its side into the plywood. the reason for it being to the side is so that the nail can't be seen when another board is installed up against it.

Same here poured urethane is my thing as well.

Always beat the male end of the t&g floor NEVER the female end ..there fore the floor is racked and nailed left to right

Same question?