I was using an AR630 for this video as it says in the Forward Programming menu. The setup for an AR631 would be the same. The transmitter settings would be the same for an AR636, but it doesn't have Forward Programming.

You have to go into Channel Assign in your transmitter and assign a switch to the channel you selected in the Spektrum Programmer or the SMB software (it should be the same channel in both). I always use channel 7 for the receiver's flight modes for an AR636. So, I'll assign switch B or C to channel 7.

I don't put much value in thrust. I base my electric setups on watts/lb. I take the flying weight of the plane in lbs and multiply it by the number of watts/lb I want. I might use 80 to 100 watts/lb for a trainer, 125 to 150 for a warbird, 150 to 175 for a sport aerobatic plane, and 200 or more for a 3D plane. Next, I chose a battery voltage that won't require too much current draw to produce the amount of power required. Since electric motors are self-governing due to Back-EMF and will turn a known rpm per volt, I select a motor KV that'll give me the rpm I want. I can then select a propeller pitch that will give me the level flight speed I want. The last thing is to select a prop diameter that loads the motor to about 75 or 80 percent of its no-load rpm. Hopefully, the diameter ends up being 1.5 to 2 times the pitch of the prop. This ensures that the blades won't be stalled at zero airspeed and the motor won't have to work too hard rotating the blades. In addition to thrust, a prop must also move a column of air at least twice as fast as the stall speed of the plane. Using an appropriate power-to-weight ratio (watts/lb) ensures that the plane will perform as expected.

Gee, I wonder what I said. Thanks! 😎

@@txkflier still don't have safe in my AT-6 with AR636 and NX8+ been going at this 3 days now.

@@robertstoner728 What seems to be the problem? I have a blog on RC Groups. Have you been there? www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=170851

I don't see a way to turn the battery percent off or on in AirWare. There is a setting for it in the Android settings. Run the "Settings" app and search for "percentage".

Look for the "Extra Settings" menu and then "Channel Monitor". The Channel Monitor lets you select how many channels you want to display on the monitor screen (select from Default, 4, 6, 7, or 8 channels).

@@txkflier I did find channel monitor in the preferences settings but when I change it it doesn't do anything still shows 12 channels

@@Eagle2Flyer_ In the Monitor screen?

@@txkflier Yes in the monitor screen

@@txkflier Yes

It's basically the same menu names, but looks different.

You might try lowering your Wifi network security to WPA or WPA2. My main Wifi network is set to "WPA2/WPA3 Personal" and my Guest Wifi is set to "WPA/WPA2". Setting mine to WPA3 broke some things. Also, if the Google Drive app has been updated, I would uninstall the update. I know the latest Google Drive app breaks the export models feature. I show this in one of my videos. I don't recommend updating anything except AirWare and, it's too soon to update to the new 20 channel version unless you want to be an unpaid beta tester.

After being unsuccessful with IX14 update yesterday after many tries, today I tried again and was able to update firmware. No clue as to why today, but thankful it finally worked. Thanks for all of help suggestions

Most people should. This video was an attempt to show how to use the Reflex in a non-FMS plane. So, if you've watched it, you how difficult the process is, and we still don't exactly know what all the settings do. I bought a Reflex V3 that's easier to configure, but it died and I returned it. I don't recommend the Reflex to anyone. Get a Hobby Eagle A3 Super 4 instead or perhaps a Spektrum Smart AS3X/SAFE receiver.

Now watch my TO/GA Switch video and set your flaps up on the transmitter's flight modes so that you can trim a plane in the air instead of using trial and error in the flap system menu. 😎

@@jmartin2711 I don’t have a steering gyro in any of my planes. It looks to me like the red plug goes into the channel 5 (Gear) port on the receiver and the lead that was in that port goes into the gear out port on the Assan. The small female connector plugs in where the steering servo would have been, and you plug the steering servo into the steering out port on the Assan. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYrLeqmvm9agj7Msi=IbCy3Y-J883z76yP

@@txkflier Hey Tk, Appreciate you getting back to me on this, and sorry to bother you with this.Okay, I have watched (Noonzes) vid on the install, and followed his steps, now he is showing the hook up on a different receiver than what the your L-39 and my have which is the multi-function control box. I get that the "red lead from the gyro goes into the gear port on the receiver and the gear out connect to the gear lead fro the rx .Got that, and the "turning servo" lead connects to the nose steering lead that was in the control box. Now does the "turning in" lead go to where i just took the nose steering lead out on the box? If i followed your steps correctly i should have the gyro working, and it wont calibrate with the rudder stick back and forth 5 times then hold left. Just wondering if the turning lead goes to another port on the box.

@@jmartin2711 Yes, the gyro goes between where the steering servo and the retracts plug into the receiver. Doesn’t matter what kind of receiver. Make sure the rudder channel is putting out 100% travel (not low rates). You do realize I’ve seen an Assan gyro, right? 😎

Hi , Ok the gyro moves or is trying to move the nose gear servo and is showing a steady blue only light with the gear up, but cannot get it to kick in with the gear down., even after trying to calibrate it. Yes i have 100% high rate on rudder. Cant figure it out. Doesnt make any sense why it wont activate.

@@jmartin2711 Raise the gear and unplug the flight pack. Wait 15 seconds. Turn the transmitter on and select the plane. Plug in the flight pack and as soon as the plane initializes, lower the gear and then move the rudder left and right full deflection 5 times and then hold it left until the lights flash appropriately.

Try setting “tmp5” to 0 (tmp5=0). Supposedly, a 0 is channel 5 and a 1 is channel 7. If your transmitter has 7 channels, I would leave it set to 1 and use channel 7.

Thanks, I tried to put both channels 5 and 6 and 7 on the radio on a 3-position switch. By connecting to sbus it worked on channel 7 without needing to modify with note++. Instead I had to edit channel 1 Ail, as the response of reflex2 was inverted. Thank you.👍🖐

@@MrSalvoFly Since most of my planes use 6 channels, my standard flight mode channel is channel 7 and gain is on channel 8, if used. I use a template or copy an existing model when adding a new model. I’m very “standardized”.

If the programmer doesn't find an exact match, it'll pop up a screen where you can decide what to do. Stop and think about what you want it to do. I usually click on the "Show All" button, select "New Model", and then select "Use Device Settings". It'll then read the contents of the receiver so that I have a copy of whatever was in it. Afterwards, I can rename it as needed. If you make the wrong choice, it's either going to overwrite a model on the computer or overwrite what's in the receiver.

@@txkflier I think Spektrum could've made this section of the programmer better, if only it showed you in an obvious way which model profile it's going to write to so you know, perhaps with a warning window and then you could click on yes or no.

@@786free1 It says what it's going to do; you just have to pause and think before clicking.

First of all, if you've never set up one of these before, you need three flight modes - Gyro off, AS3X mode, and SAFE mode. Before I can help you, I need to know what brand and model your transmitter is and the type of plane. I assume you're using an AR636 receiver? I have other videos that might be better for setting up the AR636. Have you watched this one? kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmGok2RrrKZrqqM

It sounds like panic is on all the time. Disable panic mode or reverse the channel you're using for panic. The control surfaces won't move as far in SAFE or Panic mode. That's normal, and it's why you must have your transmitter set for 100% travel (servo travel and dual rate set to 100%) when SAFE mode is selected. I usually get about the same throw in SAFE mode as I get in low rates with SAFE mode off.

@@txkflier thanks for responding, appreciateit. I am using a AR636A rx and a Radiomaster TX16s that has 16 channels. I have watched the video you sent the link for and will follow your instructions to the letter and see if that makes a difference. However I understand everything you have said in your video and understand the three flight modes and how they work etc. My dual rates r set on my tx and r on high rates. When the control surfaces were moving they were moving the same on all three flight modes and it seemed like safe was on on all three flight modes. May b the Programme wasn't using the switch I had assigned on my tx. I will try turning off the panic mode/reversing it like u suggested and see if that makes a difference. However I suspect that when I'm importing the file back to Spektrum Programme something is going wrong there and not all the settings r coming through. Thanks once again.

@@786free1 When you import an SRM, it will be highlighted. Make sure that you're selecting it. If "Enable Max Throw" is on, turn it it off. Spektrum receivers want to see 1100-1900 uSeconds at 100% travel (1500±400 uSeconds). The 4-in-1 module reduces the travel automatically in DSM mode. The "Enable Max Throw" option overrides it, and you don't want to do that. Unfortunately, the OpenTX/EdgeTX programmers don't make the transmitter show this in any of the screens; it will continue to show 988-2012 uSeconds. Since I mostly use my TX16S with Spektrum receivers, my channel order and firmware are set to TAER. That's what the AR636 is expecting. You might read this post: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=51211979&postcount=6

@@txkflier I followed your instructions in your video and managed to get it working, well almost. I believe some of the issues I was experiencing was due to the PANIC button (as you pointed out), once I reversed the panic button channel on my tx (Radiomaster Tx16s) everything started to work. FM1 with SAFE works, FM2 with only AS3X works and FM3 with nothing works, and I get full throws from my control surfaces. However my ailerons which go up and down correctly do not work correctly with SAFE and AS3X and the panic function. When I lift the right wing up by hand without any stick input the right aileron does NOT go up to push the wing down and the same happens with the left wing. When I reverse the aileron setting on the Spektrum Programmer the aileron no longer works correctly ie when I move the aileron stick to the right the right aileron does NOT go up it goes down instead. And as the aileron is not working correctly the panic function is also not working the right way. I am using two aileron servos on a Y lead. How can I overcome this issue? By the way, when I import my model file back into the Spektrum Programmer (after making changes to it using the SmB tool) the Spektrum Programmer automatically creates a new model file called model 1 which is different to the one that has been imported. Is this normal and what is the best thing to do with this new model file?

Yes, the trims change immediately, but that’s not a problem. I don’t trim my planes to fly level with the flaps down; I trim them to glide just above the stall speed like you would a full-scale airplane. If your plane balloons when you lower the flaps, you need to slow down more. Once I’ve set the trims for the proper glide speed/descent rate, I look at the position of the elevator in the monitor screen, note the value, center the trim, and then adjust the elevator mix in the flap system for the same value. However, you need to adjust the elevator linkage so that the trim is centered with the flaps up before you do any trimming for the flaps.

Wow?

@@txkflieryes, wow. This is a hard thing to make that u have made. Wow

@@Clipzz.z Nah, it wasn't that hard. It wasn't quite right the first time around, so I modified it and now it's great. However, I don't really care about thrust. I take the weight of the plane and multiply it by the amount of watts/lb I want. A trainer needs 75 to 125 watts/lb, a warbird or sport aerobatics plane needs from 125 to 175 watts/lb, and a 3D plane needs 175 to 225 watts/lb. Watts/lb is the power-to-weight ratio, and if it's right then the plane will perform as desired. Also, I try to use a prop that has a diameter that's 1.5 to 2 times its pitch. I call it the D:P ratio (Diameter-to-Pitch). The blades of a prop with a D:P ratio of less than 1.5:1 will be stalled at zero airspeed. A prop with a D:P ratio greater than 2:1 will make more thrust, but fly slower and take more power to turn.

@@txkflier nicee. But I’ll be straight honest with you. I didn’t say “wow” because it’s hard to make what u made, I said “wow” so the engagement level of your account goes up sbf you get more views :)

@@Clipzz.z Thanks, are you subscribed?

Fiala 24x12..

I also ordered the muscle bipe today. Did you install the original saito muffler or keleo or something else? What servos did you install?

@@wimbosma2258 Ask at this page: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpiyi2uIj7ScjdUsi=ZLuNZte7qGeAHHrj

Good deal. Did you see my video(s) of my 80mm Freewing L-39? Is that what you have? I recently put an AR637T in mine. I had been flying it with an AR636, but decided to add battery voltage telemetry to it.

@@txkflier Hi, Yes i have the Freewing L-39 80mm, I havent seen your vids yet on the L-39 but will for sure .I havent statrted the build yet as just moved, however did you have to add a nose gear mod to yours which keeps the strut aligned which aids in support for rough landings? I have a pic of this i can send to you if you like from a friend that sent me his mod. I would need your email though.

@@jmartin2711 I haven't needed to reinforce the nose gear on any of my EDF's. It helps if the mains touch first..

I've slept since I last checked, but the Reflex and Hobby Eagle gyro reversing setting only reverses the gyro, not the stick direction. But, I'd double-check everything after any change.

Also you seem to have the same (incorrect?) set-up order mentioned in both your own pinned comment above and the description.

@@theoztreecrasher2647That’s probably because that’s how it worked when I tested it. Have you set one up?

@@txkflier We don't have a Reflex unit to test. We do have 2 HobbyEagle A3 Super 4 and Minis but haven't set them up yet. 1 of our Old Farts Group did have an A3 Pro that he promptly destroyed by having it incorrectly set up - an all too common event with us geriatrics! We (or myself) are WAY more experienced with the other Chinesium units mentioned above - and they DO work as described above. When we get around to installing 1 of the Minis I'll get back to you with the results. Edit. Now that I think of it, someone does have an FMS SuperEZ that must be fitted stock with some sort of Reflex unit - but I've no idea which version. Nobody ever tried fiddling with it anyhow.

@@theoztreecrasher2647 I have set up and flown both the A3 Super 4 and the A3 Mini..

The iX14 needs to be connected and operating before you run scrcpy. I made a shortcut called “iX14 Remote Control”. The target string has the path followed by “scrcpy-console.vbs -window-width 1600”. I’ll put the info in the description in a minute.

Did you watch my How-To video on ScrCpy? kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2HFZmymjrdqi9Esi=dmOM0WbaBAzHd3Oe

I just now added a link to ScrCpy in the description above.

Yes, hopefully whoever locks their iX14 knows how to unlock it. Otherwise, they won’t be able to do anything.

Thank you so much, it worked and i'm computer illiterate. Incidently, you could sell sand to the arabs with that voice.

@@patdiviney7630 Thanks, but I can't stand my voice.. 😎

I made that video for the V2, so you have to use the cable that came with the V2. You can do the same thing with the V3 because it still has a USB port and uses the same configuration file. They just added Bluetooth to the V3.

Well, 8K resolution (3840x2160) of the inside of a sphere doesn't leave much resolution when you crop it down to an 11° field of view. The Insta360 X4 camera can't see very well beyond the end of a 5 foot selfie stick. Silver Surfer FPV uses an older 3 sensor 360° camera and his little planes show up pretty well. I'm going to see if Amazon will take it back and go back to my GoPro 11. Thanks..

Trim Step: Adjusting the trim step value determines how many “clicks” of trim you input each time you press the trim button. Changing the trim step value to 0 disables the trim for the channel. To change the trim step value: 1. Select the trim channel you wish to change. 2. Select the trim step value and select the click value desired. The default value is 5.

@@txkflier Ah, ok it's trim step value. On my Radiomasters the options are Exponential (steps grow if you hold the trim switch), Extra Fine (1µS), Fine (2µS), Medium (4µS), and coarse (8µS).

@@shanesdiy Yep.. 😎

You can use those switches for a number of things. In my 80mm L-39 EDF with a Spektrum AR636 receiver, I use the left trim for an extra elevator trim that's only enabled when the plane is in SAFE mode. I set up a LT>ELE mix with a rate of 10% that's only on when switch B is in position 2. I'm going to replace the AR636 with an AR637T so that I can have flight pack voltage telemetry. It'll also let me adjust the pitch attitude trim for level flight in SAFE mode without having to hook it up to my laptop. Then I won't need the LT>ELE mix.

The AR636 doesn’t use Forward Programming. Only the “Smart” receivers use it, and yes, Forward Programming only lets you into the menu when throttle cut is turned on. It’s a safety feature. You do use throttle cut, right? You should with electric airplanes.

Well, I think combining all of that on one switch might be a bit too much. There are times you want the gear to be separate from the flaps. I use switch A for gear, B for dual rates, D for flaps, and H for throttle cut. Sometimes I'll put the gyro on the C switch when I'm experimenting. If it's windy or there's a crosswind, I might use takeoff flaps or no flaps at all. I put the transmitter's flight modes on the flaps switch and enable F-mode trims so that I have separate aileron and elevator trims for each position of the flaps. Also, I add the throttle stick's analog switch as a 2nd switch for the flight modes so that the flaps go from full to takeoff position when the throttle is above 50%. I call it my TOGA switch. I have a video on how I do that. You can do a lot of things with a logical switch.

Thanks for your advice. I’m sure we would all benefit from one of your excellent tutorials on Logical and Combo Switch setups.

@@jeffreyglasser9330 When I want to set up flight modes or a logical switch, I first figure out how many modes I need. Then I assign them names (in the transmitter if possible). And then I choose the switches to make it happen.

1.21.07.. www.spektrumrc.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-horizon-master/default/dwd8849e27/Manuals/IX14_SpektrumAirWareChangeLog.pdf

@@txkflier and that's for like all the model downloads also ?

@@aaamodeltrainsandplanes3774 I don’t use the built-in models, so I can’t help you with that.