Correct, grub preventative products interupt the life cycle of the larva preventing them from maturing immediately after they've hatched from eggs. If you've had a grub problem it can be an effective means of controlling the next season infestation. The summer beeetles do in fact survive the winter and become active again in the spring. You often don't see their damage due to lesser population but once they start reproducing the new grubs will wreak havoc. Duocide (Bifenthrin + Carbaryl) is more a killer than a preventor. I would apply it when active damage is observed. Grub prevention products ( imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or clothianidin) such as GrubX or Andersons GrubOut Plus Lawn Food are best applied before the newly hatching grubs emerge (I usually try to apply between April 1 and May 30). Therefore I would apply a PREVENTION product, containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or clothianidin between April 1 and May 30. ie... Scotts GrubX or Andersons GrubOut DG. If you see new damage ocurring in June or later then apply a CURATIVE product with active ingredients such as Bifenthrin, Carbaryl or Trichlorfon. ie... Andersons Duocide or Bayer BioAdvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer. Please read all instructions and apply products in concentrations reccomeneded by manufacturer. Good Luck!

​@@LawnJourneysThank you for your message, i am definitely not experienced in this field, the reason why i thought i should probably lay duocide the curative first in May is because i already have an existing grub problem, so over the winter as the mature beetles emerge from last season a preventative won't kill them and prevent them from laying eggs sky then i was gonna lay a preventative down in June like grub ex, so i wanted peoples opinions that have already gone through this, and i like your detailed response, these things have been a thorn in my side, not only did i have grub damage but all the moles came in digging tunnels as well as skunks and racoons digging all over for grubs, so i need to make sure i get the existing larvea and mature beetles under control before they lay more eggs, i was thinking if i layed a preventative first since it doesn't kill mature grubs this would allow them to lay eggs in June

@@jason102178 Wow if things were that bad there will be a larger population eating roots in the spring. In this case I agree, use a CURATIVE in May, then go with the PREVENTER in later June. Hopefully that will be all you need for the season. Going forward make sure you apply PREVENTION timely. If you think about it, post a follow-up next season.

@@LawnJourneys thanks for the help, i definitely will post a follow up, im dealing with multiple species here and im trying to do it the most cost effective way to kill everything. I also have tons of crane flies / Leatherjackets the larvea of crane flies and army worms, i had an abundant amount of moths and crane flies and June beetles last year my whole lawn went from beautiful green to ugly brown real quick and i don't know if they contributed but i dont have any freestanding water all my yard drains normally but i ended up with patches of white fungus in different areas of the yard and I've never had white fungus in my yard before. I couldn't even walk in my backyard without getting smacked by a June beetle or crane Fly so i couldn't really enjoy my summer and have any bon fires

@@jason102178 What state are you in? Just curious. I’ve done successful fungus prevention, I know it gets crazy and costly. Follow-up with the grub program in the spring and feed the lawn. If it doesn’t fill back in fast enough consider a fall overseeding.

I'm not familiar with any rechargable mosquito traps.

That’s impossible to say, too many factors I can’t control. Rainfall, mitigation options neighbors may be employing etc. it does collect mosquitoes and a ton of moths and flies. I think it’s used for mosquitoes mitigation but I’ve yet to find a 99% solution. Also be I’m fall of ground vegetation in area where you sit out. Mosquito 🦟 thrive in my irises which surround the deck.

Agree it ran well till it stopped. Then it never worked again so I returned it.

Thanks for the clarification. This is good info to share. I'm going to pin this to top of the comments on the video.

Can I use this fertilizer right now in the Fall?

@@JTARTS-hg1mq Yes.

@@JTARTS-hg1mq I've used it in all seasons with great results. Question is, has your lawn gone dormant for the season? If yes, may not be a good use of $. Some states also prohibit lawn applications after certain fall dates as the majority of the product is not utilized by turf and runs off into surface waters. As far as NJ is concerned, its definetely late.

Ask your boss why they feel the need to charge $100 for a 40lb bag when it probably costs them $5 to make.

Bentgrass is a scurge. Tenacity is a selective herbicide that will take it out. However, if your totally taken over and and you burn it all down to start over, yes you can still amend the soil from now till then with bio char type products. Soil conditioning is probably one of the best things you can do to support a healthy lawn. Further the bio char (carbon) will stay in the soil long term. Good luck!

So exactly what items please. Bio char from Andersons. Humichar also? What else? Lime? Andersons makes IV liquid spray. Simple lawn solutions makes a micro booster spray. Your thoughts on that? Much appreciated

If your snow is generally light and dry then it should work well. Let me know how it makes out in Alaska!

As far as I know its often the battery. If you put a new one in already did it get a good charge. Maybe leave it off a few days and let it charge. I've also read that it could just be the LED itself, although uncommon. If its an older light it just may be end of life.

Maybe I’ll test next season with straight lime. Thank you.

Season is done in my region.

Which month of next year would be a good time for me to contact you?

I generally get my pre-emergent down mid-march (NJ). I usually follow-up with a spring fert, early April, PGF-C is glorious. I do another fert late May and reserve the stress blend applications for July/August.

I actually tried both. The Double Dark results are at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaOWm6OQqd2LnZIsi=M_YYpbhgXZmR-q9a I think the YM product gave my lawn a darker green. I'll probably hit it with one or the other soon, like to go dark green for Halloween!

Help me out with this. So I dethatched and overseeded and starter fertilizer three weeks ago. With bentgrass issues I applied tenacity three weeks ago and second application this past weekend. I just mowed for the first time since dethatching and overseeding. I mowed like 2.5 inches. So where all the bentgrass is/ I believe dead do I need to dethatch those areas so that I can reseed or sod those areas? Also I believe in would like to apply a second application of starter fertilizer next week/ that would be four weeks after dethatching and overseeding. If you believe it's good to apply a second application early November of starter fertilizer. Then what else I can I apply now to compliment that? Then in early November I was going to apply simply lawn solutions 0-0-25 liquid or Jonathan green winter survival fertilizer. Please advise if that is a good plan or you believe you can recommend something else? Plus I was going to apply Jonathan green magical now if you believe that is okay. Much appreciated for your guidance and help. Regards

@@brodygoalie If the bent grass is dead you can pull it out with dethatcher to clean it up. As I mentioned in another comment, sounds too late for see but sod may still take if things don't go dormant yet. If your going to do a winter fert with 0-0-25 liquid, early November, Id skip the second round of starter fert. I always like to baby the new seed and not take a chance with too much N. With new seed down you may also want to skip the spring pre-emergent, it can stunt root growth on the newer seed. Just spot treat for weeds in the spring and or do a full weed app once things get rolling. Love to know if the Bent Grass comes back. If you think of it let me know in the spring.

Yes, I always get a Prodiamine pre-emergent down by early to mid march (NJ climate). I've done mixed pre-emergent and fert but I really think its a waste to put fert down that early. Any pre-emergent with prodiamine works the same. I've used Andersons and Yard Mastery, I like having things delivered these days. Of course a trip to your big box store will do the same. Here is a Pre-Emergent video where I used "0-0-7 Granular Prodiamine Pre-Emergent Herbicide" kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4CxnZyIiteUrbssi=QjcadBJBKaP2S2Lp

​@@LawnJourneysthanks

Andersons is top drawer, put together great products. Duocide contains two insecticides (Bifenthrin & Carbaryl), works as both a curative and preventive for a large number of insects, including grubs. I've found, in my case, that grub and fungus prevention are two of the most important steps and preventing devistating loss of turf. Of course others frown upon continued application of insectcides but the results are evident. Just apply at the correct times and at the label concentrations.

@LawnJourneys thanks for your input. I noticed in other vids that you use N-Ext products too. I'm currently using RGS and Humc12 but plan to use many more next year. Between N-Ext and The Andersons, I'm going to have to get a second job! Oh, if you haven't seen my videos, I'm trying to do Zoysia in my back yard (2,500sf.) and probably going to renovate my front lawn which is fescue and bermuda mix (7,500sf) with Zoysia in the future. I have much to learn. Thank you for your videos and for your informative response.

These traps have a wattage of 15-24 watts (combined bulb and fan) and cost around $1.25-$2.00 per month to run 24/7. You can calculate it yourself using your electric kilo watt hour electric rate.

I’ve gotten mine on Amazon. Pretty sure you can buy direct too. www.amazon.com/dp/B09LYCT924/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_RW7S66RGTR23THG87F7M?linkCode=ml2&tag=lawnjourneys-20

As far as I know it’s not rated to capture flying ants.

I showed the contents on the video. Mostly moths and flys but there are some mosquitoes. Most reputable vedors will allow you to return it especially amazon.

turn it on

I showed the contents on the video. Mostly moths and flys but there are some mosquitoes. Most reputable vedors will allow you to return it especially amazon.

Glad it helped! I just put a new blade on mine again this month.

Yes it surely captures moths in large numbers. I also get many flies. Mosquitoes are in there but they're hard to see after they dry out.

Never thought about that but apparently it is used. “biochar can be used to amend soils during tree plantings by mixing it and compost with backfill soil dug from tree planting holes. Applications may range from 5 to 25 percent by volume for both compost and biochar, depending on the starting qualities of the soil.” wwv.isa-arbor.com/quizbank/resources/5611/CEU_022020.pdf

@@LawnJourneys Thanks! 👊🌳

Share your results, I’d like to know how it works out in your case. Thanks.

Glad you got something out of it. Sometimes I have too much fun with the editing “beep-beep” 😂

I fert every 5 weeks or so. I think you’ll be fine. PGF C is hands down the best fert I’ve used.

I thatch in September, scarify, seed, Pete moss close to end of September. Have to keep the seed moist once it’s down, i wet it 3x day. This gives me two good months of grow time in NJ (Oct/Nov).

I set mine at 16. It’s possible that we’re not calibrated the same so keep an eye on how much product you’re using over a known area.

Probably too late. If you have active grubs you’ll need to use a different product. Look for products that say it kills grubs. Active ingredients are often Grub products that contain carbaryl, imidacloprid or bifenthrin.

The SunJoe dethatcher is the spring like module. The blades are the scarifier, which scratches up the ground for better seed contact. I chose not to rent an aerator because I’m tired of hauling machines home from rental stores. Aeration is useful if you have very hard soils, I’ve done it in years past but have gotten away from the rental game and my lawn is still thriving.

Glad you enjoyed it. I’m an amateur videographer but it’s fun. I actually just picked up a replacement blade.

Thanks. Absolutely purchase products where it's priced the best, I do too. When I made the video I spoke about where I got it at the time.

Yes shop around. It is Expensive, but the usage rate is lower.

I don’t believe there a scam. They’re monitoring stations that when hit get bait installed that kills colonies. They’re not for ridding known infestation in a home, more early warning and/or prevention. I believe they’re heavily used in south eastern US by commercial pest companies and often beneficial when selling home as a means to certify that proper prevention methods have been employed. The stations I installed I self monitor.

@@joejones6842 Its an early warning if you get a hit in one of the stations. Thanks for sharing.

As per manufacturer: Simply attached the product to your garden hose, turn on the water, and use your thumb to activate the sprayer. BioAdvanced Lawn Root Moisturizer measures 32-ounces and treats up to 5,000 sqaure feet. Does this answer your question?

@@LawnJourneys yes, and thank you for your quick reply! I went out there and did just that but it seemed wrong as if it was just spraying water and no product so that's what started my search for videos to show how it was being attached. It's my 1st home and I'm new at this! I'll give it another try tomorrow ☺️ thanks again!

@@shontaenorwood7076 You should just push the bottle to On, the flow should look sudsy on the lawn. I’ve never had a defective bottle that doesn’t flow the product but that’s a possibility.

Application is effective up to 4 months. Water it in 1/4” H2O after application.

Coming soon! Appreciate you!

Thanks so much, appreciate the positive comments and glad to hear it was useful 😆

Negative. Flying insects.

Score! I did the same thing and bought a number of bottles on sale. I just applied mine as things have been heating up here. I didn’t video it , trying not to be repetitive with vids.

If you have my model I think I took mine apart in this video. Otherwise google you model for instructions, it’s usually easy to replace. DynaTrap Refit and Use kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5bTqGSjqr-lb6c

Bees are the all important link to successful propagation of crops. Pollinators are at risk in the US from pesticides and non-native bee species. Agree it’s just one but wanted to acknowledge it as I’ve gotten more than one critical comment about the Dynatrap capturing more than mosquitoes. Thanks for checking out the vid. I still run my Dynatrap 👍

Yes and thanks. I used Root Moisturizer one last season. I was just noticing a few dry spots and thinking about picking something up. Thanks!

What state do you live in? My Ollies is bare!

Glad I could help!

Great question. I was thinking of doing a new fungus video this season. I use Azoxystrobin (Azoxy) 2SC Fungicide. The manufactuer directions address it as a systemic fungicide that should be watered in with 1/4" of H2O. I generally cut the lawn and apply same day or day after, then irrigate.

Thanks. It comes in better every year. I guess it’s from all the feeding. Of course summer stress and disease can strike anywhere and any time. Hope your turf is well too.