Good Question! Yes, it will help prevent it from freezing, but won't completely prevent it. Best thing to do is bury the discharge line.

We say close them. Allowing moist air into your crawl space is no good. As warm air rises, it sucks air in through the vents. Only a one-way out vent connected to a dehumidifier would make sense. Otherwise, close them up!

Great question! Most slab homes in the frost line (the area of the country where it freezes regularly) will still have a 4 foot foundation wall into the ground to counteract frost heave. So even though you do not have a crawl space, unless you're living in a Southern Coastal area, you likely will still have a 4' foundation to hold your home up.

Thanks so much! We're here to be transparent and educational, glad you enjoyed!

Humidity should not effect the epoxy once it has cured.

Hello @shashG30, it's best that you get a qualified contractor in your area to help you diagnose and repair the issue. There are different solutions to different problems.

@Therealsealllc thank you sir , please do start classes , so other countries also learn from best ppl lik u

@@shashG30 Thank you! I'll keep making videos and helping as much as I can from here!

Yes, it is. Sometimes the signs are hidden behind the finishings. But once the issue becomes large enough, it will show itself.

I wouldn't recommend it. Better to use a sealant that has a little flex to it. As your car drives over the sections cracked, they move slightly and the rigid finish of the hydraulic cement would crack.

You can use a sealant as long as the gap is not too big. If you can stick a finger in there easily, it's best to get the well replaced. Otherwise, you can use a strong construction sealant silicone on the inside to seal it up.

@Therealsealllc Thank you!

@@vickimcdonald4471 You're very welcome!

Most Big Box stores only carry shorter wells, but if you go to a larger contractor supply (they'll sell to the public), you can find the deeper wells. But good solution doing it yourself!

@@Therealsealllc Thanks! Yep, I just used stainless steel pop rivets and a little silicone caulk to join a 22" and 18" wells together. I joined the ends without the rolled rims and they fit perfectly. Will be installing, today. :)

@@rosewoodsteel6656 Nice work! Glad it worked out!

Yes, sir! We perform crawl space digouts to basements while supporting the home.

Hello! We are in Chicagoland in Illinois.

You're very welcome!

If the concrete is too cracked, it is best to break out and re-pour new cement.

Yep, water is not a great thing when it gets in your home!

We do seal the drain board in order to help with any radon systems being installed. In fact, our Drain Tile Systems are designed in a way to aid Radon Reduction Systems and work quite well in conjunction with a thought-out system.

We wouldn't recommend it for that. Your shower walls should be a plastic or metal of some kind. We wouldn't recommend concrete as a shower wall.

It depends on the severity of your situation and a variety of factors, including how your home is built. The average house leveling job is 8 piers and a rough cost of 20k.

Thank you!

Hi There! Unfortunately we do not know anyone down in that area. We suggest going online and comparing reviews across a few different sites to find the most consistent reputation.

Egress Windows have come a long way, actually! Window Well Drains are done differently than in the past where they ran into clay lines outside. Nowadays, we install them with PVC and a 10 year warranty. Covers come with a Lifetime warranty, and the wells themselves are more robust than they were in the past. We've come a long way from people using pavers for window wells and the single-pane thin glass egress windows. With the new egress windows also being shatter-resistant, insulated, and easy to operate (they don't rust and get stuck like your old windows), they're better than they've ever been!

Hello! Unfortunately we are not in Mass. We'd suggest going online and finding the company with the most consistent reviews across Angie's, Yelp, BBB, and Google. Be sure to read the reviews!

H

Great question! You want to wait until the hydraulic cement completely dries to ensure the sealer sticks. You'll see the hydraulic cement go from a dark gray to a light gray color. If you want to speed up the process, you can put a torch on it to heat up the material after it is applied.

Hi There! The repairs are, to be sure, more than just the cost of a plate. There is extensive labor involved, and depending on the solution you need skilled expertise to do it correctly. We've had to fix a lot of DIY repairs. So be sure you get all your info together before attempting to do it yourself. It certainly is possible to DIY, but I think you'll see just how much work it is when you hit shovel to dirt.

Very close. Since the pipe is perforated all the way around, it doesn't have standing water. The water leaks through the perforations when the water level recedes down. Now, if the corrugated pipe was solid, you would be correct. This is why we don't recommend using corrugated piping for your gutter extensions or discharge lines.

It depends on the nature of the issue. The worse the issue, the larger the cost. The average settlement issues are in a range of $20-30k.

Good Question! Tie down straps are used mostly to prevent uplift from Hurricanes and Earthquakes. We are based in Chicagoland, so we do not tend to come across those situations very often and do not treat that kind of damage.

Good Question! As long as you seal around the hole, you should be good to go. A good caulking or silicone is good to seal it.

Thanks so much!

There is not much concern of dirt entering the system from underneath the pipe. The reason for this is the pipe is already laid in a bed of stone. The compacted dirt underneath the stone bed has very little chance of ever loosening up and coming up through the pipe. The same goes for the soil on the side. As water flows down, it will bring loose backfilled dirt and debris with it, hence needing landscape fabric on top to stop that soil from coming down with the water. Even with tamping the dirt down with machines, that dirt on top is looser and can be brough down with gravity in the water. Standard practice is to just use landscape fabric on top. The pipe itself has a sock (cloth filter) over it as well to help prevent the dirt from entering the system.

Hi sir. We install a lot of geotextile encapsulated French drains. That being said, only covering the top of the french drain with geotextile in a scenario like the one in this video is completely fine.

@@High-Flow-Drainage-Solutions Yes, why?

@@shihuna Hi and great question! As I stated above, beneath the Drain Tile is a layer of stone, which helps to filter the dirt out. You have less worry of dirt coming up from underneath the Drain Tile as you do from it coming down from above with the movement of the water.

@@High-Flow-Drainage-Solutions Thank you sir!

Great question! Yes, this can be used to fill in those cracks in the garage floor before you apply your rubber floor coating. Be sure you allow the hydraulic cement to fully dry before you apply the coating. The hydraulic cement will turn from a dark/moist color to a white/dry color.

Normal taglines are boring!! lol

Hello! if you're in Southern California, we would recommend Dalinghaus Construction.

@@Therealsealllc I'm in nor cal

@@mexican707 Unfortunately we don't have anyone up in Northern California we know. Best bet would be to compare reviews (be sure to read them too) and find the best consistent reputation.

Great question! If the interior wall you are referring to is the wall between the lower level of your basement and the higher split level, then it is possible for that to bow. It is uncommon, to be clear, because the forces are not as strong under the raised portion of your home. We'd love to come take a look at it if you're in the Chicagoland area. If not, maybe we can direct you towards a good company!

@Therealsealllc thanks so much! It's my parents' home in Northeast Ohio (Akron/Canton/Cleveland area). It's a load-bearing interior wall on the ground floor with sudden bowing of at least a few inches, very concerning. If there's a company you know and respect in their area, I'll pass that along to them.

@@daniellebuie8098 Try Jake at Summit Basement Company in Akron. Good company with a solid reputation.

@@Therealsealllc thanks so much!

@@daniellebuie8098 Happy to help!

Yes. Because we backfill right away, the foam board protects that wet seal while we back fill and it dries.

Great question! Both of them come with a Lifetime Warranty. That is because both methods work. The elastomeric (stretchy) properties of the tar allows it to flex during the heat/cold cycles, allowing the seal to stay in place. This method stops water from ever entering the crack. The epoxy method fills the crack with epoxy, eliminating the pathway for water to enter through the crack. Mainly, people choose between the two based on access. If there is a lot of stuff in the way on the inside, an exterior repair makes more sense. But as the epoxy is less expensive and carries the same warranty, that is the standard method for repairing cracks when you have the access from the inside. Hope this helps!

@@Therealsealllc Thanks for the reply!

@@sayless9937 Anytime!

It depends on the size of the area being leveled. Most projects are completed in under $1,500. If your whole driveway, patio, and sidewalk need lifting, that's another story and will need to be measured and quoted for the extra work.

Hi Lance! It may be possible, but it's hard to tell without knowing/seeing the situation. Deadman anchors do help to keep the wall from falling, but they need to be installed properly and with enough support for that wall.

Happy to help, thanks so much!

Typically pipes don't run very far underneath the ground. We call JULIE to locate any lines, and they are found while we do our work, as we must start at the bottom of the foundation. The main ones to worry about are sewer lines (which run right under the foundation or through it and easily identified and avoided), gas lines (usually not too far below the ground, so located and avoided), electrical (usually above ground, but below ground is located and avoided), and water lines (3' at least beneath the ground, but easily identified from location tags and where it comes in the home on the interior).

@@Therealsealllc Thanks...my question was less about concern for pipes underground (although that IS a factor to keep in mind) but rather when the house is releveled, do pipes running from the house need to be disconnected so that they do not break? For example, a pipe from the sewage in the house that then connects to a pipe running into the main sewage line that may move a bit during releveling.

@@sullyprudhomme Great question! Yes, depending on the area of lift and amount of lift, it may be necessary to disconnect the sewer line before lifting. Many times, it will have sunk down with the foundation, however, and lifts back up correctly. At that point, all you need to do is re-seal/connect the pipe on the outside.

Happy to help!!

Window Well Drains are typically under 1k, but the cost will vary a bit depending on where that drain is discharging. If there is a long run through drywall and studs to get around to a sump pit, that work will add to the cost.

Thank you!

The main risk is the drill bit hitting and going through the pipe. A skilled technician will know to stop the drilling once the concrete has been passed, and the risk there is minimized.

​@@Therealsealllc Ok, thanks. Is polyjacking better than mudjacking in terms of risk to pipes? I have a hard time thinking about how the forces involved could affect a pipe which may or may not be exposed in part or full.

@@TimothyOBrien6 Both services have risk of filling pipes, as they are filling voids and any break in a pipe exposes a large space. Solid pipes have little chance of being damaged with either service.

@@Therealsealllc thank you

@@TimothyOBrien6 Happy to help!

HAHA HAPPY TO HELP!!

Hi @elibrown7531! Epoxy injection is best done from the inside. With a finished basement, you can end up injecting epoxy into your home, which is not ideal. So while epoxy injection is the best solution from the interior, from the exterior the best solution is to clean the wall, use hydraulic cement over the crack, and then an elastomeric tar over that. A protective barrier like a plastic sheeting or a foam board is ideal as well to prevent the tar from being scraped off during back fill and compression of the dirt.

Those can be done as well. It all depends on the size of the structure that is being supported. The same spacing applies, unless the structure is 3 stories and taller, in which case the piers would need to be spaced closer to 3' apart.

Happy to help!