You explained it so well .. thank you sir !

Intro is 🔥

Great video! I previously owned the M-D and found it wasn't quite the right fit for me. The body felt less solid than I expected, and the hollow sound when tapping on the back gave me doubts about the engineering. I also struggled with the thickness of the camera and missed the flexibility of switching between JPG and DNG when needed. While the DNG files were fantastic, not being able to easily send them from my phone was a real limitation for my workflow. That said, the M11-D seems like a significant improvement, and I love the direction Leica has taken with it. I’m curious to hear more about how it handles day-to-day use. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Thanks! Looking forward to your B&W conversion I'm currently using C1 and will look forward to seeing how Neo is with high contrast processing.

thanks for the analysis. I'm currently on the same way (avoid Adobe). Sadly, I'm also very attached to the cloud and sync features available with Lightroom. My current process is: Import my SD card in Lightroom mobile; start editing on my mobile; sync photo on the computer; finalise editing (and if required denoise) and export on my Mac. ... will have to rethink my workflow ...

In capture one you can always locate the root folder of your archive and it will have all your images available to your catalog again. There's also a video from capture one exaggerating this method. IIRC it's from the iceland series.

Hello With dxo photolabs, every photos work with a treatment files. You only had to organize your photos as you like. I’m using also topaz photo for the ai tools

I’m curious about Luminar. 😊 great video and wonderful channel.

A good argument, but you also can have a cross-platform solution with Capture One: you can use sessions, which are in itself self contained folders with database-photos-edits, that we can move from Mac to windows and back. We can use as in Lightroom catalogs, where we place the database stored in the same folder as the photos, with subfolders for further organization, by date, subject, filetype and so on as we whish. And you can even store photos as once we could do in Apple's Aperture: inside the catalog/database, portable to any drive , Windows or Mac: move or copy the catalog, photos go along with it. Dxo Photolab is also a bit like ON1: no need to import, reads from disk and builds the database, always updating, but it's not a catalog as we understand it, more a referenced memory to the photos Photolab knows to exist. Hope this helps. Have a great new year 2025.

hello i use darktable on mac and on win. i have an imac m2 and a windows desktop. with the mac i work on the couch and instead with win i work at my desk: i use an external hard drive and move it around as needed. the strength of win is its screens that allow me to give the final adjustments to my photos. Installing darktable was pretty easy on both platforms. In order to allow the files to be updated to their latest state, one simply has to set up: look for updatet xmp files on startup (preferences: storage) i am not a professional, but from scratch with a few youtube tutorials, in six weeks, i learned enough to be able to manage my prints satisfactorily. in darktable there are many modules that allow different approaches. to a prfessional i would recommend keeping lightroom as long as you get comparable results in darktable. also to keep in mind in darktable there is no AI .

Adobe Lightroom "Classic" has various limitations if you want to edit your images on multiple systems. You are also not allowed to store your catalogues on shared network paths, which is a massive restriction for people using local NAS systems to store their images. Adobe addressed this by introducing Lightroom (a non-classic version), which stores all images in the Adobe Cloud. With Lightroom, you can edit your images on your mobile devices, such as an iPad or iPhone. But you must pay for the storage space and always need a fast internet connection. Because I have multiple Terabytes of images on my local NAS, which would cause enormous storage costs in the cloud, this is not an option for me. However, I also do not hope that Adobe will improve on this problem because they will force you to use their cloud product, which is much more lucrative for them. On the other hand, I've been using Lightroom Classic since version 1, and I don't want to switch to multiple image editing tools anymore. So, I have to live with these restrictions.

Hello Markus. Great reflection about using one photo editing and management tool on multiple OS platforms. Have you considered or looked into ON1? I switched a couple of years ago from Lightroom to ON1 and have not looked back. Although I only work on MacOS, they have also a Windows 'version'. One of the BIG things for me with ON1 is that the do not use any catalogues! ON1 uses the folders you already have your images on on an internal or external hard drive (I have everything on an external drive). The nice part of this is that you can edit images that are anywhere (e.g., if you have some images in a separate folder on a separate drive, you just select those images in ON1 and you can edit - no creation of catalogues needed). ON1 also works with other programs (including Photoshop) and also is an image manager (you can import, rename, move, etc.). Full disclosure: I am not paid for or anyway other linked to ON1 (I buy my updates self), just a very happy user 🙂Good luck with your search for a Lightroom replacement!

Please do a video on Luminar !

Darktable is your solution, but it has a big learning curve. I find it better then Lr ,but abit slower

Hello. Nice video and very interesting. So to summarise its best to have the photo originals in a sub folder of the folder of the catalogue. Correct. And if I do this now to organise better (I use Mac now) do I need then to reimport the originals which I need to move to the catalogue folder? Or simply reconnect/redirect the photos to their new location? thanks!

Have you checked On1? I don't know how it works in the specific situtation you described, but other than that in my opinion it is far superior compared to other Adobe alternatives. Haven't missed Adobe at all since I swithced and would not go back.

Since I'm not a Windows and MAc user I can't verify it, but doesn't Capture One have the managed files option for such purposes, where the images are physically stored inside the catalog file?

Hi Markus, I've been there, and I've tested tons of apps and software, including Darktable. In the end, I settled on DXO's Photolab - an amazing piece of software on its own. I think it's even superior to Lightroom, but that's a whole different topic. As for the catalog: it works directly off the hard drive, with no need for imports. Photo adjustments are stored in sidecar files, so I can take my hard drive to different computers and work on the same photos seamlessly. Maybe this could be helpful for you?

Best bang for the buck is the regular sumicron 50

I taught my daughter, then a Teenager, in 30 seconds! Two fingers, one finger!

Although never mentioned explicitly, I have noticed that in videos featuring some of the masters of M photography, in compositions not having prominent vertical lines, the photographer would turn the camera 45 degrees to focus quickly, then return to the desired horizontal or vertical framing. It works for me.

Thanks Markus

A comment late in time. I really enjoy your channel and look forward to your new posts. In the mean time I have started to watch your presentations from the beginning. I preferred the photos in square format but I loved the photos at the end. I am a Hasselblad user, 500cm, and I sometimes use a light meter but more often I rely on the sunny 16 - rule. On a sunny day set the aperture to /f 16 and the shutter speed to 1 over the iso value of the film you are using or as close as possible. ISO 100 gives 1/125 s., ISO 200 1/250s and so on. The Hasselblad lenses uses exposure value EV. ISO 100, /f 16 and 1/125s corresponds to EV15. On a Hasselblad lens the EV value locks the shutter speed and the aperture when you set the exposure so now you can quickly change the shutter speed and the aperture will follow automatically. Higher shutter speed gives a larger aperture and more shallow depth of field. If you practice to "read" the lighting conditions you can do very well without a light meter using a simple table for sunny days, cloudy days ond so on. Photographers today are so obsessed with light metering. Victor Hasselblad, the founder of the Hasselblad Company, photographed birds with his 500c and a telephoto lens, so I guess it's a matter of practice. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule

Really love the concept of this camera. Would love to have the D style in Monochrom! One thing though, I feel like with digital cameras not blowing out highlights is critical, so on my M11M I use the histogram for high contrast scenes. I guess you can do that that with the visoflex, but then that seems to miss the point of the camera. As a M10-D user how have you managed exposing for highlights?

Good video, but hate the light halos in your eyes.

I shot 500 iso with this film in a sunny day. Am i messed up ?

Loved the sample photos - they pretty much sold me on picking up at least one roll to try out!

Hi Markus, I like the film it has an interesting colour palette and the grain looks great 👍🏻 I also appreciate your photography 👍🏻 Ruud👋🏻

I’d love to try this film too! 🤩

Let me know what you think of this film. Do you like the look? Are you shooting it regularly?

Thanks!

Great photos.

Great video, thank you.

Great overview of what can be a challenging topic for many

I disagree that this camera is not for beginners. It is likely (based on my estimate of your age) that you learned photography on a manual film camera. And doing so taught you from the very start how to correctly work the three basic controls to expose an image - shutter speed, aperture, and ISO (then known as ASA). You now understood the fundamentals of creating a photographic image. And you were a beginner! All subsequent photographic skills you developed rested on that fundamental understanding of image creation. And if not as a beginner, when else would you learn those fundamentals? And how better to learn them than with a fully manual camera? With a fully automatic camera that does everything for you, without requiring any understanding of the fundamentals on your part? By just having to press the shutter button - which automatically focuses the lens and exposes the image? I say no. And I say that a Leica M film or digital camera is the best beginner camera there is (ignoring price considerations of course).

rangefinder is so much more natural and closer to what the human sees imo

Great review! However, It has good changes and less great changes. It will be more clear when I see the next model later. It seems like they loose their strength.

My nightmare: going out in the morning and forget to switch to normal shoot after I set it to self-timer at night before. And I don't bring my phone. OMG ;)

Thank you. I finally understand how it works.

I have just bought my first film camera and this example with the graffiti was a perfect example to explain it and now i get it totally. thanks

I am an M10-D and I have the means to get an M11-D but unlike you, I don't think the M11-D is a step up, quite the contrary. I see no reason to have such a camera without an integrated thumb rest, a camera which is not as reliable as the M10-D and a camera I have to flip down to check my iso when I can just glance at my M10-D and see what my iso is set to anytime. This said, it is not something you seem to require as your iso dial was set to "A" for auto, there is nothing wrong with that but that's not how I work with a digital M camera. I set my ISO and shutter speed myself, I don't let my camera do that for me. The biggest problem with the M11-D, it remains an M11 prone to occasional freeze up and strange magenta colour cast, good thing it doesn't have a bottom plate as it saves time when doing a hard reset with any M11 camera model. I need my cameras to go "click" when I press the shutter, the M11, any m11 doesn't always work flawlessly to this day. (Let the vilifications begin...)

nice review. I want to buy a M11D now. I wonder how dynamic range in daily light of the M11-D. Can you share some raw images.

nice review !. I want to buy a M11D now. I wonder how dynamic range in daily light of the M11-D. Can you share some raw images.

Just another weird Leica model for dentists and the idle rich. 😂

Hi Markus - great video. I also own a Leica M-D (262) and really like the camera a lot. Also am using a Hasselblad X2D100c for high res projects or work. But my heart is in the D-Type Leica cameras and I have owned the M10-D for a year and am using an M7 as well. I watched your M-D homage before getting my own and am glad I did. My own observations about the M11-D after trying out the camera at the wonderful Leica Hamburg store for an hour are: 1.) ISO Dial - is really in the perfect position for all those who are also using film based Leicas and it's great that they have returned to putting the iso back where it belongs to. And as Overgaard notes, it really is nice to rest the Thumb on the back which you would avoid on LCD type cameras. But what I didn't like is that there are no in between stops for the ISO settings unlik on on the M-D (262). Only full ISO steps and you have to turn a lot before getting to the next ISO. So if you work with manual ISO there is too much turning to do and it takes almost 360 degrees to go from lowest to highest iso. On the M-D this is better solved and you only have to turn half circle 180 degrees to turn from 200 to 6400. I understand that because of the automatic ISO the full circle makes sense on the M11-D but in real world usage I expect this to lead you to not use the manual ISO that much because it is too cumbersome to keep turning. 2.) Live View Sensor Reading - I think it is really a missed opportunity to not have a shutter based metering reading incorporated back into the M11-D. Like on all M11 models, when you turn on the camera, the shutter opens and stay open because the camera operates in full live view mode. So whenever you turn on the camera it sounds like a photo is taken and the sound is not loud but in portrait distance noticeable. Because of the full live view mode we also have the extended clicking which is longer than the M10/M-D shutter sound. So you never know exactly when the shutter takes the photo because we hear 4 steps (shutter closes, opens again for exposure, closes to finish exp then opens again for metering). Leica should have kept the curtain mode from the earlier generations to allow a non life view mode. And in the M11-D it does not make sense because unless you use the viewfinder, you don't have any benefit from live view. I believe that in the M12 we might see a come back of the curtain exposure reading. 3.) COLORS: I compared photos taken with M-D/M10-D/M11-D and the M11-D gives quite malleable files, not as good as Hasselblad but not too far from it. The white balance can sometimes be quite off. But the best colors came from M-D, then M11-D and the M10-D was quite neutral and least interesting. Most film like for me are still the M-D colors. 4.) Weight wise the M11-D is lighter but because the body is smaller, it feels still more dense than the M-D if you ask me. 5.) The surface of the M11-D has this texture which seems very resilient but not so nice to touch and I do prefer the patina of the black laquer. I am very curious how Leica is continuing their models. I feel the M11 is like the M9 of the future, mainly because of the live view sensor and there is a lot of room to improve. I think the triple resolution is a great idea but in reality the pixels are never combined (as their visualizations suggest) but instead pixels are simply binned. So all limitations and the most important being higher camera shake will stay the same, no matter what resolution we choose. So it seems to me that the M11 series are a brave new start with a lot of room to improve and I am not yet tempted but am curious how the Leica journey continues. Meanwhile enjoying a 2016 model that requires charging batteries once a week... 🙂 Anyways I thought your video is the perfect place to share my thoughts. Keep up the good work...

Was this shot with the use of an 85 filter to correct the blue tint of the 200T?