@@nightrainduane Polaris LCD dash displays remain visible all the time. When the dash begins ‘sleeping’ it consumes very little power from the 12 volt main battery. You may notice that the display ‘wakes up’ when you press a button after five minutes or more of zero activity (engine off, no cranking, no button presses). The display also wakes when it notices the engine is cranking.

@@lifeless896 Old video that still applies, especially when working on these Polaris PWC.

Has he checked for a keyway?

The impeller has a factory left hand thread.

@@paulgregg722 I have removed a number of these impellers. There is no keyway, just a rather tightly torqued impeller with left-hand thread.

How bout some heat first...?

@@kevinmonday522 There are several rubber seals around the driveshaft just behind the impeller. Excessive heat near those seals could compromise the sealing lips, necessitating seal replacement..

I have not encountered Loctite on factory driveshaft/impeller threads (recent model year GP1800 and similar). The factory service guide suggests grease be used in that area. Some of us use anti-seize compound on the threads and impeller rear washer to ease impeller removal should it be necessary in the future. There are several rubber seals around the driveshaft just behind the impeller. Excessive heat near those seals could compromise the sealing lips, necessitating seal replacement..

​@KM447 Your right I was thinking about the 1050s that have loctoght on the impeller threads, for this one though, you can remove the drive shaft assembly along with the impeller and heat it up away from all the seals, being that it is very stuck heat might help brake it loose.

@@maxmoto97 The example in the video is not unusual. That amount of torque effort is about normal for cracking loose a modern Yamaha factory impeller. No need for torch heat or disassembly of the driveshaft from the jet pump. Removing the factory impeller and installing an upgrade impeller (typically Solas) only takes a few minutes. Most of the time required is the removal and then re-installation of the jet pump. We use the same basic method to tighten the new impeller onto the driveshaft, but without the cheater pipe extension. Circa 200 pound guy standing on a wrench maybe 16 inches long, seems to work out about right for torque.

My understanding is that all Polaris Ficht EMM have the same ability to read and reset the Service codes. More info and Ficht repair service can be found at lakesidetech.biz

Worx racing has the intake for the 22, just ordered two last week. They have the whole kit - blow off valve, Intake and ribbon delete kit.

NO START ONLY BACKFIRES

Ficht emm repair

The guy will repair/rebuild for $450. I have a 2002 Genesis that had a bad emm as well lol.

@@parkergainey9072 HAVING A HARD TIME MAKING THE CONNECTION

lakesidetech.biz is the place you want. Excellent customer service, reliable Ficht EMM repairs

@@dreknotz1996 Removal of the flame arrestor disc (aka ribbon delete) from the plastic intake manifold is mostly to avoid the possibility of the disc becoming dislodged and possibly impeding airflow through the intake manifold. In some cases the ribbon disc can travel to an air intake port and damage an intake valve. The performance gain after removing the ribbon disc is typically minimal.

The jet pump is the only pump in the Yamaha watercraft. With the hull out of the water, the jet pump does not compress the air flowing through the jet pump enough to purge residual water from the cooling circuits. What does retain some water is the large waterbox in the exhaust system. Firmly (but very briefly) blipping the throttle a few times on the trailer will purge much of the water from the waterbox. It is not necessary, helpful, or even possible, to get the waterbox entirely ‘dry’ using engine throttle blips. The idea is just to get the majority of the retained water out. Which only takes a few brief blips. This video was to demonstrate how _little_ water remained in the water cooling system when the engine is shut off. The Yamaha cooling system is self-draining, so the water simply flows out. For this demonstration I connected the Yamaha flush adapter to my air compressor hose with an inline on/off valve. There is also a tow-valve added to the main water feed hose from the jet pump, installed inline and just before the X connection for the flush connector. The tow-valve allows me to force 100% of the flush feed forward towards the engine. Without the tow valve a lot of the flush flow just dumps into the back of the jet pump.

I bet they fired him before the epoxy set up.

if you have not removed the engine then you will not need an alignment tool

I am in the same boat. I have 3 new to me skis that the previous owner forgot or never programmed the code.