I have another video on my channel that explains that and shows the remedy. Its titled SOC drift and SOC reset explained

The V1 is not updatable Over The Air (OTA). The V2 is updatable. So they are not really compatible from the comms perspective. You can however just use standard Victron charge controls to change a combination of V1 and V2. It just wont be a comm controlled system. But the Victron controls work just fine too. You will have to use the V1s lower absorption voltage of 13.9.

Fantastic!

Depends on the type of signal. If its a mag pick up signal or a direct driven signal generator then the signals are great and as reliable as anything. But many diesel trawlers have a W signal from the alternator. W signals can be problematic at times. 1) the alternator is belt driven so rpm many times is not exact. 2) many W signal tach users find that when the battery is full and the alternator output is reduced many times the tach signal will bounce erratically or be lost altogether. Many times the remedy for this is to turn on a continuous load such as nav light or some other load to increase alternator output and regain a good tach signal.

@michaelchownyk5255 the 460ah Marine with comms has a 500 amp internal gR fuse with an AIC of 50k. ABYC recomends an AIC of 20k so it exceeds that. That internal fuse will satisfy the Arc Interupt Capacity bit its not likely to perfectly match your wiring fusing requirements. So I have used mrbf fuse holder on the terminals for my wiring size. Epoch can be pronounced Eee-pock...or Epic. There is no official way. Just don't pronounce it like Will Prowse as Eee-poch and I think we will be good lol

No problem sir! Hope the video helped!

If you have fuel overflowing all the time the the float and needle is stuck. Take it back apart and make sure the little needle is properly in the little forks and that the needle is easy to move and the tip is not swollen.

@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Hi again, thanks for the reply. I did check that the float was going up and down perfectly. If you mean the needle in the middle,unscrewed it and cleaned the little hole. Or do you mean another needle? somewhere.

@@swedishkev No I meant the float needle at 10:50 Thats mainly how fuel overfills

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Hi again, so l have taken the float away and the pointed needle,did you say that was rubber, the pointed blaćk end. I could not see anything wrong and lm soaking that in brake cleaner, is that ok, or do l ruin that pointed rubber bit. Was hard to see, and was not sure if there was a little hole in that because you called it a needle seat, that's why lm soaking it. If l still have the problem tomorrow, when l reassemble, then l might as well order a new carb.They are as cheap as 40 dollars on Amazon.

Just an update, put all back together, float and needle seat looked fine, no blockages,and primed the bulb hard and now it just pisses out petrol, from that overflow nozzle, that has no pipe on it. Time to give up and order new carb. Best now for peace of mind. Could not trust that carb now. Thanks for helping.

No damage. Not much has changed other than the leakage of course. All the stray current was just going out the green shore power ground wire. So it was fairly safe. But still not right and may have presented a hazard with additional failures.

Still prefect. I expect the seal to last many many years. This particular access panel was chosen because it is rated to be below the fuel level. Keep in mind many large vessels have access port on the sides of tanks. And aircraft has dozens of access panels n the BOTTOM of tanks.

If the temp dips low enough to shut off the charge mosfet (32) it has to rise above 41f for a bit before the charge mosfet will turn on again.

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Thanks. It's charging now but not sure why the heaters never came on.

@rkdrury1 no problem! I made the video because I know what it's like to figure this stuff out. Not simple!

Yes, I am always amazed when I look at other places in the PNW and other high tidal areas like the bay of Fundy. The infrastructure and the huge pilings and catwalks on wheels are crazy..lol. Typically we have 2 to 3 foot tides. Floating docks are a rare luxury here.

Yes, they cut power when the water gets to the dock level. For my old lead acid batteries I would have wanted to keep power on as long as possible for having full batteries just prior to power being cut. I always imaging a scenario where water comes in and the bilge pumps have to run continuous. How long could they run? On my old lead acid...not long. 4,5,6,7 hours? On the new Epochs I am sure they could run for a few days. So in the future I will disconnect shore power at last prep.

Well thank you. My goal is always just to share my own experiences. I dont share them to focus on me...but share them in the hopes that others, especially newer boaters, might gain just a bit of information that may help in the future or make boating more accessible to them. There is so much to learn in this boating world..lol.

I am glad you enjoy the videos. I try not to make it about me. Just details of boat ownership...lol. Thanks for watching!

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 I think it is a perfect balance. If I wanted just technical information I could read the manuals. Your personality makes it interesting. You have an impressive set of skills and experience. Your easy going practical and friendly personality makes your content (for me) a joy to watch. Were about the same age, like you I have decades of experience in aviation (not the maintenance side, although I do have an A&P but never used it). When I am notified of a new MV Intrigue- Trawler DIY video I look forward to the content. Take care! - Respectfully

No...but that sounds like a great idea. I cant remember what AME was but it was aviation IIRC. I was a Marine Crew Chief on CH-46E helos from 87-93 and have worked in aviation ever since.

These were pulled chord hand flares.

Yeah..None of the pull cord ones i tried worked. 100% failure. I would definately dispose of those.

They were all locked. But there are procedures to undo all of it. All of this stuff is up and running in my boat now for some time and working great. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks brother. You wont need any of it since you have that fancy new diesel with 15 hours on it..lol.

Big thing for this is to diagnose the smoke type. But if the smoke is unburnt diesel usually its poor injector performance or the exhaust elbow near the injector nozzle that is caked up with carbon to the point it restricts exhaust flow. In addition..look to ensure the intake is not blocked.

I guess it really depends on the injector. These bosch style are very easy and its covered well in the Westerbeke manual.

I like my tools and gadgets 😁

In this case I am running the AC right from the generator. But it gets fed through the Victron Multiplus2 since the Victron unit is a "passthrough" inverter charger. But its all AC all the way. Yes I can run the AC off the battery no problem. I can run the AC and the microwave as long as they dont start at exactly the same time. With the 2 Epoch 460AH (920AH total) I can run the AC unit anywhere from 5 to 9 hours depending on settings and cycling. You could almost certainly get through the night. Problem is you have to put it all back in. That could mean 5 hours of gen run time. I am working to add additional charger capacity right now. DC to DC charger as well as Solar. Id like to be able to reduce charge time from nearly empty to full in less than 4 hours. That would mean a continuous 200-250 amps of charging. Ill have that soon and will cover it here.

The needle valve attached to the float should be free moving. Of its snug that will cause flooding for sure.

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 well I ended up buying another carburetor and I'm going to install it this weekend. I thought the needle valve was moving pretty freely but I just bit the bullet and hopefully this resolves my issue.

@@jza80king Im sure it will. How much was the carb? Dont forget about the spacer warning in the video!

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 yep I will make sure to put the spacer on. It was $60 from southmarineparts. I sent them the model number to confirm the carb.

@@jza80king you really cant beat that...lol. If you are cruising away from home it may be wise to even have a spare..lol.

Haha..caught me too and im a 40 year mechanic! Glad to help!

@tonyrollin402 apologies..being from Florida I don't have any experience with snowblowers. Hope you find your answer.

I will. I have been slacking lately. But I will have more of an overview of the system as a whole soon. Thanks.

I just amended my opinion in the comments. Its terrible..lol. Thanks for reminding me!

I used this for years and it held up great!

Your planned battery doesn’t have this full charge protection warning/charge disconnect. The parameters are mentioned at about 6 mins. Edit: I amend my statement to “I don’t think your planned battery has this…” (if @mvintrigue isn’t sure, neither am I! 😉)

As Jim Duke mentioned the full charge protection parameters are greater than 14.0 volts, less than 3.6 amps, for more than 10 seconds. You can charge to 14.2 but you will enter into full charge protection. Again if you have a single battery not an issue but with multiple batteries you would need to clear the FCP. I dont believe the Essentials or the Dual purpose have full charge protection

Good info - thanks !

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101The 300AH Essentials will open the charge FET at 14.70 battery voltage or 3.70 cell voltage. The SOC counter will reset at 14.20 so there is need charge to the protection level. Also, the 300AH Essentials calculate SOC strictly on AHs withdrawn and like the 460AH its not very accurate.

So 13.9 will prevent the battery from entering FCP? My MultiPlus was set to over 14 in absorption, and the 460 would stay permanently in FCP whenever connected to shore power. It creates a super annoying issue where when my water pump runs, the lights get super dim, then bright, as the pump pulses. I believe it’s because essentially the battery is no longer in the circuit to buffer the changes in load. So I adjusted the absorption to 13.9 to see what happens.

@@ErnieBueno-gq4dg yes it does! Thanks a bunch.

@andrazsulic1992 double check...but I believe you can only use the G3 vision charts. But they are very good too.

Both of those would be great too. But the epoxy coated wood was very stiff and I had all materials on hand. IMO the PVC sheets and Starboard aren't quite as rigid for the same thickness. I have used starboard a bunch and I love it. Started using PVC recently and for some stuff that works great too. For my battery trays I used 1/2 birch that had several layers of Biaxial fiberglass and those came out super strong.