I think the oldham couplers introduce backlash in the Z. I would get rid of those

the backlash is in the belt ?

could you list everything you used for this printer in the description ? I would very much appreciate it!!

I went the route of using 2 stepper motors on the z, one on each side, would all the other stuff still work?

and that killed off my belief in the expensive nuts I bought earlier :P

You should make it 2 alloy profiles with 2 rails and 4 blocks. Then mod on a carbon fiber carriage as tiny as possible. More lightweight :)

Rule of thumb in engineering. Minimize transfer of loads as much as possible.

I'm aware this video is old, but your oldham couplings are the ones causing the backlash. I know cause it happened to me. At 3:42 you can clearly see that the coupling is the one to blame. there is a huge backlash when changing the direction, so big that you can spot it in the video. As an extra comment, these couplings do not tend to move at all unless you change directions as you shown. Otherwise the same weight of the gantry prevents them from doing anything. It's better to print some alignment tools when installing the Z screw than to use these. WobbleX on the other hand do dynamically move correcting the issue at all times. From my humble experience: it's better to properly align the z axis with the z screws than to have to correct deviations on the fly.

Thank you for making this. It’s hard to find detailed explanations. I learned a lot.

Very impressive

Un video fantastico, sono alle prime armi, mi diresti come hai fatto per creare una cinghia chiusa per qui.Grazie.

I added the oldham couplers and anti-backlash nuts from TH3D to my CR10-Max (because they are already cut-down to fit the CR10 properly) , this stopped the gantry dropping or sagging and helped Z banding. I now added thrust bearings, and made sure the top if the stepper motor shaft was not quite touching the z-axis lead-screw. This seem to have solved all my z-banding. Thanks.

just get a newer printer

My understanding is that in the case of the Oldham couplers installed on the top they might introduce the detected backlash. Especially with cheap, less accurate couplers. When installing the anti backlash nut at the bottom, as you mentioned, the preload might not be enough to counter the backlash under the weight of the gantry.

I had an issue with my B Motor running in reverse. Swapped the blue and green wires. But it made a horrible noise. Upon experimenting, I discovered it was necessary to reverse all the wires to make it rotate in reverse. 1234 ->4321 SKR1.4T

Sorry, this not solutions

Partially right, and partially gdmn right! But... If you have another source of backlash. How can you prove that installing anti backlash nut does nothing? = ) First you need to eliminate backlash source, and then you can speak about anti blacklash nut role. With current proof you only showed that you can not detect work of anti backlash nut, as there is backlash in some other component. = )

WD-40 will remove your corrosion and rust but you need to make sure you lubricate bare metal parts especially ones that contact each other you print quality will increase I lubed my Z screws with engine builders assembly lube and I haven’t had any sort of movement issues on the Z since

you know, you just enter GCODE for your steps/mm I have a sprite so ignore my E rate M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E424.90 ; Steps per mm M203 does federates with M X Y Z E and M201 does the same for Max Acceleration and then there is M204 for Acceleration with P R T settings ;)

Excellent exploration of AB Nuts. Thanks!

Congratulations, and thanks for a well-presented and helpful episode!

Z axis is the least movement axis among the 4. A 3D printed PLA nut works best for me. Let the top end of the z lead screw be free don’t bind them to a bearing. Let it be guided by the linear shaft like the original Prusa and like Anet A8. Sometimes is inconsistent extrusion and gears of the xtruder causing irregularities. Tune extrusion and also Y. I never use any special stepper motor shaft coupler or spring nut. Sometimes some parts need to be plastic or softer material to absorb the vibrations don’t go all metal. Thanks for making this video ❤ and sharing your findings.

this cooling looks femine and empowering

The axis always moves up when running ABL that process moves the z-axis in both directions.

How do I align the y-axis without a machinists square?

Why not just get silicon feet at this rate They didn’t fit my printer but i would have loved to use them, vs installing all this, where as I believe mine may require firmware edits as well, But if anything anything at all, Just get an integrated lead screw Z stepper and a top end mount The real problem is warped surfaces I mean am I really the only one to get 3 in a row within 7 hours of printing on a glass bed? Rails can wait til next decade But yours look sick, cool edits ❤

Great but sad story, I love it!

I know this is an older vid, did you ever completely solve your issue? That last bit of the video it look like there might be some slight runout on the belt pulley. I'm thinking of just going dual Z linear guide rails (MGW12) and driving each side directly with a stepper and belt without a leadscrew entirely. Also wondering if, instead of loading the printhead on the front, if it would be better to balance it so there's no extra load on one side or the other of the gantry.

Will this upgrade work for the Ender 3 Max?

Can’t wait til you tune everything properly and show the difference in print quality.

I wish I saw this a year ago.

What's wrong with the "olde worlde" method of spacing two nuts with threaded studs and dialing out the backlash that way? I understand that this method requires periodic adjustment as the nuts wear, but at least it's as close to zero backlash as makes no difference when set up correctly and produces close to zero drag unless the lead screw is badly bent.

if i want make this type of envorment how?

10:36 you could've just swapped the corner brackets around. lmao.

Thanks for the explanation. It was very elucidating. In my opinion, there could be a software solution to this lacklash problem. We could and a small Z axis turn just after the printer finishes homing the Z axis. How much turning of the Z axis would have to be gaged through trial and error. Just found your channel and became a subscriber. Keep it up! 😊👍

Wonder if itd be possible to have a bedslinger multi color tool changer at the way top of the gantry. Itd be alot of z movement but thatd be an interesting concept.

I wanna know how everyone else seems to get their Y axis belt so perfectly straight on the spindle lol. Mine always is off to one side and I can’t get it to stay centered

Have you tried removing the springs and only using double nuts?

The BLV kit had no issues with nuts holes spacement, the issue was your nut. It was not the correct one.

I imitated the working principle of the thrust bearing by using normal bearings (I don't know how it will work for long-term use), I think it worked, the z movement is very consistent, I ordered the oldhan coupling and it is on its way (I tried this way because I did not want to order a thrust bearing from Aliexpress and did not want to wait)

Definitely doing this on mine soon. Thanks so much!

its from the free course of the blender bros isnt it?

dude did you made this printer beg on the streets or sth damn thats a nasty looking printer man

first thing i'll point out is that in Z axis applications there is already always a screw/nut preload equal to the weight of the gantry and you cannot change the faces in contact by changing directions in Z (like in 00:49) unless you are doing so faster than g=9,800 mms-2. are anti backlash nuts a scam? of course not. they work exactly as advertised.....in X and Y screws like those in CNC machines. NOT Z screws in 3D printers for the reason I mentioned above. secondly, and not related to backlash, by mounting the oldham coupling above the gantry, it is in constant tension and not working in the optimal manner. it is supposed to be mounted under the gantry so that its horizontal surfaces can bear the load while the coupling is being compressed. while upside down, that same load puts the nut in tension, and the weight of the gantry is now transmitted to the dovetails interfaces instead, which have a much smaller total surface area than the flat faces and were meant only slide past each other instead of now also being loaded. faster wear and reduced capability to perform its original function.

Lol love the editing 👍Nice video thanks. Fun journey making upgrades!

Thank you for sharing. Where did you get the Y axis rigidity supports?

Can the issue of the gantry weight exerting pressure on the motor shaft be resolved by inserting a thrust bearing between the coupling and case of the stepper motor?

Hm just a quick Question in The Video at 4:43 you can see that there is a gap between the carraiage and flange means the flange sits not flat on the wagon? Is this intended? I have the problem, that its not easy to fasten these 4 screws??

Hey Dude, to reverse the spinning of the stepper motor its easier to change 2 of the wires either on the left or right, doesnt matter. think its bether to do this instead damaging the connector. Depending ob the electronics its also possible to reverse the motor in the firmware settings - if running klipper its an easy task. I am a lot delayed with my upgrade although I have the party laying arount for some while 😀Ty for your detailes videos they have helped me a lot and by ther way sorry for my bad englis spelling and grammar

besdt ender 3 channel ever thanks for your work