I think the oldham couplers introduce backlash in the Z. I would get rid of those
@duality4yКүн бұрын
the backlash is in the belt ?
@duality4yКүн бұрын
could you list everything you used for this printer in the description ? I would very much appreciate it!!
@frownmastr6 күн бұрын
I went the route of using 2 stepper motors on the z, one on each side, would all the other stuff still work?
@-Gunnarsson-10 күн бұрын
and that killed off my belief in the expensive nuts I bought earlier :P
@-Gunnarsson-11 күн бұрын
You should make it 2 alloy profiles with 2 rails and 4 blocks. Then mod on a carbon fiber carriage as tiny as possible. More lightweight :)
@danmeyo17 күн бұрын
Rule of thumb in engineering. Minimize transfer of loads as much as possible.
@moretti74024 күн бұрын
I'm aware this video is old, but your oldham couplings are the ones causing the backlash. I know cause it happened to me. At 3:42 you can clearly see that the coupling is the one to blame. there is a huge backlash when changing the direction, so big that you can spot it in the video. As an extra comment, these couplings do not tend to move at all unless you change directions as you shown. Otherwise the same weight of the gantry prevents them from doing anything. It's better to print some alignment tools when installing the Z screw than to use these. WobbleX on the other hand do dynamically move correcting the issue at all times. From my humble experience: it's better to properly align the z axis with the z screws than to have to correct deviations on the fly.
@bluesteel8473Ай бұрын
Thank you for making this. It’s hard to find detailed explanations. I learned a lot.
@jamiejoker118Ай бұрын
Very impressive
@rokynek58632 ай бұрын
Un video fantastico, sono alle prime armi, mi diresti come hai fatto per creare una cinghia chiusa per qui.Grazie.
@peterrichards19892 ай бұрын
I added the oldham couplers and anti-backlash nuts from TH3D to my CR10-Max (because they are already cut-down to fit the CR10 properly) , this stopped the gantry dropping or sagging and helped Z banding. I now added thrust bearings, and made sure the top if the stepper motor shaft was not quite touching the z-axis lead-screw. This seem to have solved all my z-banding. Thanks.
@salvo813182 ай бұрын
just get a newer printer
@SnoringVids27 күн бұрын
😂 I'm literally doing a a z screw upgrade right now and I'm definitely considering just getting a new printer
@RitoriqPrinciples2 ай бұрын
My understanding is that in the case of the Oldham couplers installed on the top they might introduce the detected backlash. Especially with cheap, less accurate couplers. When installing the anti backlash nut at the bottom, as you mentioned, the preload might not be enough to counter the backlash under the weight of the gantry.
@webslinger20112 ай бұрын
I had an issue with my B Motor running in reverse. Swapped the blue and green wires. But it made a horrible noise. Upon experimenting, I discovered it was necessary to reverse all the wires to make it rotate in reverse. 1234 ->4321 SKR1.4T
@slamet32riyadi252 ай бұрын
Sorry, this not solutions
@enosunim2 ай бұрын
Partially right, and partially gdmn right! But... If you have another source of backlash. How can you prove that installing anti backlash nut does nothing? = ) First you need to eliminate backlash source, and then you can speak about anti blacklash nut role. With current proof you only showed that you can not detect work of anti backlash nut, as there is backlash in some other component. = )
@enosunim2 ай бұрын
Also you have installed those antiwobbling spacers wrong. May be they create backlash too. There should be a brass nut, then spacers then x axis plate. With anit backlash nut it is hard to achieve, it needs some case which will hide springs.
@chrismulhauser3333 ай бұрын
WD-40 will remove your corrosion and rust but you need to make sure you lubricate bare metal parts especially ones that contact each other you print quality will increase I lubed my Z screws with engine builders assembly lube and I haven’t had any sort of movement issues on the Z since
@Mr.Smalleys3 ай бұрын
you know, you just enter GCODE for your steps/mm I have a sprite so ignore my E rate M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E424.90 ; Steps per mm M203 does federates with M X Y Z E and M201 does the same for Max Acceleration and then there is M204 for Acceleration with P R T settings ;)
@johnathonwalty89153 ай бұрын
Excellent exploration of AB Nuts. Thanks!
@marcoaurelioxaviermoreira46313 ай бұрын
Congratulations, and thanks for a well-presented and helpful episode!
@Jim_One-wl4ke3 ай бұрын
Z axis is the least movement axis among the 4. A 3D printed PLA nut works best for me. Let the top end of the z lead screw be free don’t bind them to a bearing. Let it be guided by the linear shaft like the original Prusa and like Anet A8. Sometimes is inconsistent extrusion and gears of the xtruder causing irregularities. Tune extrusion and also Y. I never use any special stepper motor shaft coupler or spring nut. Sometimes some parts need to be plastic or softer material to absorb the vibrations don’t go all metal. Thanks for making this video ❤ and sharing your findings.
@MrGarkin3 ай бұрын
this cooling looks femine and empowering
@bertram-raven4 ай бұрын
The axis always moves up when running ABL that process moves the z-axis in both directions.
@Iisakki30004 ай бұрын
How do I align the y-axis without a machinists square?
@davidcarr23084 ай бұрын
Why not just get silicon feet at this rate They didn’t fit my printer but i would have loved to use them, vs installing all this, where as I believe mine may require firmware edits as well, But if anything anything at all, Just get an integrated lead screw Z stepper and a top end mount The real problem is warped surfaces I mean am I really the only one to get 3 in a row within 7 hours of printing on a glass bed? Rails can wait til next decade But yours look sick, cool edits ❤
@bramslootweg4 ай бұрын
Great but sad story, I love it!
@eastcoast84354 ай бұрын
I know this is an older vid, did you ever completely solve your issue? That last bit of the video it look like there might be some slight runout on the belt pulley. I'm thinking of just going dual Z linear guide rails (MGW12) and driving each side directly with a stepper and belt without a leadscrew entirely. Also wondering if, instead of loading the printhead on the front, if it would be better to balance it so there's no extra load on one side or the other of the gantry.
@mwetzel384 ай бұрын
Will this upgrade work for the Ender 3 Max?
@Sutanreyu4 ай бұрын
Can’t wait til you tune everything properly and show the difference in print quality.
@Sutanreyu4 ай бұрын
I wish I saw this a year ago.
@MrSlipstreem4 ай бұрын
What's wrong with the "olde worlde" method of spacing two nuts with threaded studs and dialing out the backlash that way? I understand that this method requires periodic adjustment as the nuts wear, but at least it's as close to zero backlash as makes no difference when set up correctly and produces close to zero drag unless the lead screw is badly bent.
@JassRajputFilms5 ай бұрын
if i want make this type of envorment how?
@evlsc4005 ай бұрын
10:36 you could've just swapped the corner brackets around. lmao.
@MakerMindset5 ай бұрын
Thanks for the explanation. It was very elucidating. In my opinion, there could be a software solution to this lacklash problem. We could and a small Z axis turn just after the printer finishes homing the Z axis. How much turning of the Z axis would have to be gaged through trial and error. Just found your channel and became a subscriber. Keep it up! 😊👍
@SianaGearz3 ай бұрын
How do you fix it on Zhop move?
@Reds3DPrinting5 ай бұрын
Wonder if itd be possible to have a bedslinger multi color tool changer at the way top of the gantry. Itd be alot of z movement but thatd be an interesting concept.
@YouBetterCallSaul5 ай бұрын
I wanna know how everyone else seems to get their Y axis belt so perfectly straight on the spindle lol. Mine always is off to one side and I can’t get it to stay centered
@raiden725 ай бұрын
Have you tried removing the springs and only using double nuts?
@itsazuura5 ай бұрын
The BLV kit had no issues with nuts holes spacement, the issue was your nut. It was not the correct one.
@badofive5 ай бұрын
I imitated the working principle of the thrust bearing by using normal bearings (I don't know how it will work for long-term use), I think it worked, the z movement is very consistent, I ordered the oldhan coupling and it is on its way (I tried this way because I did not want to order a thrust bearing from Aliexpress and did not want to wait)
@jonlangfitt5 ай бұрын
Definitely doing this on mine soon. Thanks so much!
@HKDriving2105 ай бұрын
its from the free course of the blender bros isnt it?
@bluemonxterDIY5 ай бұрын
correct
@HKDriving2105 ай бұрын
@@bluemonxterDIY nice i did it too and it was really good
@recepates50916 ай бұрын
dude did you made this printer beg on the streets or sth damn thats a nasty looking printer man
@suivzmoi6 ай бұрын
first thing i'll point out is that in Z axis applications there is already always a screw/nut preload equal to the weight of the gantry and you cannot change the faces in contact by changing directions in Z (like in 00:49) unless you are doing so faster than g=9,800 mms-2. are anti backlash nuts a scam? of course not. they work exactly as advertised.....in X and Y screws like those in CNC machines. NOT Z screws in 3D printers for the reason I mentioned above. secondly, and not related to backlash, by mounting the oldham coupling above the gantry, it is in constant tension and not working in the optimal manner. it is supposed to be mounted under the gantry so that its horizontal surfaces can bear the load while the coupling is being compressed. while upside down, that same load puts the nut in tension, and the weight of the gantry is now transmitted to the dovetails interfaces instead, which have a much smaller total surface area than the flat faces and were meant only slide past each other instead of now also being loaded. faster wear and reduced capability to perform its original function.
@MrW3iss6 ай бұрын
Lol love the editing 👍Nice video thanks. Fun journey making upgrades!
@galkawarrior6 ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing. Where did you get the Y axis rigidity supports?
@ruuman47 ай бұрын
Can the issue of the gantry weight exerting pressure on the motor shaft be resolved by inserting a thrust bearing between the coupling and case of the stepper motor?
@darklirahmaledicta84787 ай бұрын
Hm just a quick Question in The Video at 4:43 you can see that there is a gap between the carraiage and flange means the flange sits not flat on the wagon? Is this intended? I have the problem, that its not easy to fasten these 4 screws??
@bluemonxterDIY7 ай бұрын
Hi, sorry I don't get your question. Are you talking about the y axis aluminum plate mounting on top of the linear rail carriage?
@darklirahmaledicta84787 ай бұрын
@@bluemonxterDIY Hm well maybe I was not clear at all :-D - Imean the 2 plates holding the Y-Motor and The extruder. I have had troubles to mount them flash on top of the rails wagon because the edge of the linear rail carriage ist sharp 90° and the bended Metalplates hav an inner radius because of the bending this is what I am concerned about. In my case the two verstical 20x40 Rails were no longer paralell to each other they are 90° to the base but in fache of each other rhe one on the extruder site is slightly rotated - not shure if this may cause some trouble later on. Hm I am almost finishes and I will see when I do a Testprint maybe a cross with 90° then I will se if the x-y alignment is not orthogonal. I write a short notice when I am done how it was going :-D
@darklirahmaledicta84787 ай бұрын
Hey Dude, to reverse the spinning of the stepper motor its easier to change 2 of the wires either on the left or right, doesnt matter. think its bether to do this instead damaging the connector. Depending ob the electronics its also possible to reverse the motor in the firmware settings - if running klipper its an easy task. I am a lot delayed with my upgrade although I have the party laying arount for some while 😀Ty for your detailes videos they have helped me a lot and by ther way sorry for my bad englis spelling and grammar