Awesome🎉. 75mm is a little powerful for indoors and bit challenging outdoors if there is wind but a greatly tuned quad. If you have the time and ability I would recommend setting up different profiles of your filing in and outside. Let me know how it goes!

It is a setting in the goggles. The quad and goggles must be on then set the bit rate to high. It will not let you if the race mode is selected or the resolution is set to 1080.

@@ChrisLBradly i tried the unlock and high bitrate but it resets as soon as the quad connects the goggles lol.. its weird

⁠my guess is you need to update the goggle and drone vtx firmware to the latest (do not change the betaflight firmware since it has nothing to do with the digital transmission)

@@ChrisLBradlyhey I’m new to the hobby and just got the hdvision40 starter kit.. will I be needing a computer/laptop?

just read their description and if you got the entire kit with drone, remote and transmitter then no pc needed. It will be setup ready to go with how the setup the buttons/arming/beeper/turtle mode. If you want to change that then you will need pc with betaflight or a smartphone with betaflight

The protek is designed specifically for the air unit. On the inside of the ducts there are ledges that that the air unit sit snuggly into. One of the few frames I found that designed for the air unit.

@@ChrisLBradly Alright thank you I understood! 🫶

Almost all my 1-3s builds are on the Darwin AIO. I use the one without the receiver since I am crossfire or tracer. They are holding up awesome against pounding the whoop gates and hitting the grass. I haven’t tried hard surfaces much except the house one in a while. I buy them because they are the cheapest and only killed one out of 20-30

A good way to relax the throttle stick is to connect to betaflight and add throttle expo. Or setup a specific model and add throttle curve in the radio. I do not have a video on either but there are plenty on KZbin. If you don’t want to do that then go outside and practice in a large area and then shrink the area down a week of 20-30 packs later and so on until your area match the indoor area. Also make or buy whoop loops to hone target route.

Runcam Hybrid 2…it’s a 4K split camera. I was using the HDzero goggles with the analog module.

Using betafpv non-highvolt 450mah and getting 2-3 minutes depending how I’m flying.

Using betafpv regular 450mah and getting 2-3 minutes depending how I’m flying.

Thank you! Happy flying ✈️

JHEMCU Play F4 Whoop Flight Controller AIO (1s-2s). Not available anymore

Nice! The tune is insane!

Thank you 😊

Thank you

@@ChrisLBradly I love flying whoops. Only flying I can do right now is on sims but still super fun

@@taranmehta6356 my first drone was a 65mm brushed whoop I converted to fpv 😊

three minutes average with 2s or 3s...depends mostly on how your flying. 3s feels heavier but has better acceleration.

I bought a 50 pack M2 x 30mm hex head screws from Amazon and trim to fit to reduce excess weight…look up ->uxcell M2x30mm Fully Thread Hex Socket Head Knurled Cap Screw Bolt Black 50pcs

😂Trying to tippy toe into racing and gap shooting 😅

thank you! welcome board!

Thank you 😊

Thanks for the input! I was trying something new and did not want to have the mavic mini hovering over the street or neighbors property but now I realize I need to go higher or find a bigger location for this third person video concept.

Yes 4s will kill it. Best to use a bec or the onboard 9v supply if your fc has one. 5volt fc bec may not have high enough amp rating to keep vtx stable.

Thank you 😊

Agreed but mine has crossfire with an immortal T so there 2-3 grams. I don't mind the weight outdoors since wind is a big factor. I mainly use only 65mm indoors.

Search Thingiverse for “The Sanchez [3 Inch Toothpick Style]” by Dave_C_FPV June 04, 2019

After 2 minutes is the nano v3. The nano v3 image is clearer, sharper and more like HD. Nano90 is cloudy image at times.

​@@ChrisLBradlydid you ever try the 90 fps 540 mode? Also, do you have a link to that print?

Mine is still on the original tune.

Indeed 😊

lol Thank you. Hopefully I can figure out a better tune.

Old batteries and windy conditions. I abuse my batteries and leave them charged for long periods. I charge a lot at a time to get the flying time I want.

Thanks, too heavy for what? The intent here is to have great durable flyer for medium size area (not a 250g goal) but on a 3s 500mah it’s sub 250! And with the motor kv I can use upto 6s!

@@ChrisLBradly too heavy for 3.5” in my opinion. More momentum, more current draw bcs of the weight, can give more damage in crash unless if it’s a tank build. Ideal for me 160-200 using 6s 380-550mah. But still good build my friend

2-3 minutes depending on how you fly with 450mAH.

@@ChrisLBradly Do you think is possible to fly with a 18650 and walksnail?

@@simone12russo yes, I plan to solder XT30 to one and send it.

@@ChrisLBradly Cool! How do you think to manage the 3.1volts limit of the walksnail with the 18650? And what flight time do you expect with it?

@@simone12russo A voltage booster module is strongly recommended for HD vtx's. I would guess 7-9 minutes.

No 2s. The motor kv is too low

Was this drone difficult to fly or are you still a fairly new pilot and a little unsteady on the sticks? I'm just asking because I wonder about how realistic this is to fly inside.

⁠this is a 4s drone but I was trying 2s and 3s to fly indoors which made it very under powered. Power to weight is bad. A 2s with higher kv would be way better. I have another video where I converted to o3 for same weight. Great for fast 4s 2 minutes.

I’ve only run betefpv 450mah and old happymodel 450mah so nothing to give advice but audline 500mah and gnb 600mah are too large to fit.

For limited space this one 1.6 rips balls! I’m working to drop weight on the 3 inch but regardless it will be more of a free flow freestyler (cinematic freestyle only). The current weight of the 3 inch is holding back response ability after aggressive moves.

Did you watch until the end after I did the fix?

@@ChrisLBradly sorry. I was skipping through video. What did you do to fix it?

@@NabeelAhmed-me4ok I used 6 fc dampening grommets, 4 in between o3 mount and gummy’s plus 2 between camera and o3 mount. I show in video around 3 minute mark.

Thank you!

It only works with 3s. The strip comes with a 12 volt bec switch and i wire it to vbat. On 2s the voltage is not high enough to power the 12 volts but 3s it gets converted to power leds. If you run 3s make sure you run a throttle limit to protect your motors if your fc supports 3s.

Thank you 😊 when I first started fpv with the snapper75 I had the crosshairs 5 years back. I wanted to challenge myself since this is first time doing gates. Outside is more difficult because of the wind and how light the whoops are but stay tuned…I’ll be modifying more whoops to rip!

Thank you 😊 M2…I drilled out the brackets with a 2mm bit.

Thank you 😊

Thank you 😊 happy flying!

Thank you. Happy flying!

Thank you! I use betaflight rates with 1.00-RC rate, 0.86-Rate and 0.15-RC expo, same for roll, pitch and yaw on all my quads. Gives me common feel on sticks flying so many quads. It’s very high at end but mellow in center of sticks resulting in every quad being cinematic in center of sticks to aggressive flight when desired banging on sticks. Hope this helps!

I have been flying for 6 years but not consistent. My tip would be to focus through on other side of gate versus the gate itself.

I am running BetaFPV 1102 Brushless Motor - 18000KV so my throttle limited is 78% 2s and 52% 3s and had to drop my throttle idle to 3.0 to prevent arm runaway on 3s after arming.

@ChrisLBradly thanks! So apart from limiting the throttle a 3s battery is pretty much drop in?🙈 did you notice any more uptime with 3s?

@@gentlesfpv I will check and let you know but on 3s there definitely more zip and power for acro moves

Thanks again for the answer. Much appreciated:)

​@@ChrisLBradlyon 14000kv motor do I have to set Throttle limit to use 3s battery?

To start are you sure it has a crossfire receive and not ELRS? If you have crossfire receiver, do you have a crossfire module in your radio? What version of betaflight are you on? Mine came with betaflight 4.3. You will need to check the receiver tab to ensure the flight controller is connected and receiving the signal. CRSF selected and Telemetry enabled. Then go to mode tab and check arm switch is working properly. Made sure if you made changes you select save before leaving each tab in betaflight.

@@ChrisLBradly thanks for the reply bro, yes it is confirmed crsf and I’m running an external CRsf module on my radio master . On BF , telemetry has been ticked , channel has been mapped to AETR1234 instead of the default TAER1234 when it’s was shipped. All set properly and saved before exiting BF. There is telemetry on and off notification on my radio when battery is plugged on and off the quad, despite all this, I still can’t arm the quad, the motor doesn’t spin. I brought it back to BF to test the motor with battery plugged, the motors can spin. There is a fast blinking of green led light on the quad when battery plugged in. I still couldn’t figure out why , would you be able to share with me your CLI dump file?

@@sgtechiedad if the fast blinking green light is the rx then you are not bound to drone. This means rx did not update sw correctly when binding. You need to do a hard reset on rx. While unplugged hold bind button on rx and power. After powering rx release button. Wait until you see rx blink green rapidly and press bund button on rx. Wait 10-20 seconds and rx should start blinking slow (normal) green. Now you are ready to bind rx to module. When binding to module you must wait for rx to update firmware completely and turn solid green before doing anything.

Only if you did a rx hard reset and still not binding then you should update your crossfire module to latest firmware to support the rx hardware and rebind.

I have followed your instructions, after binding process, green light remain stable but still can't arm, during the process, no firmware upgrade needed. And after I power recycle, now the rx light turns red. @@ChrisLBradly

Anyway you could do a list breakdown of what you used for the entire build possibly after finished? I like the setup and I'm waiting for my pico pavo to arrive still. Also I have a o3 pico pavo frame kit already I would like to order the parts for and do a seperate build but this is my first whoop build and I'm not sure where to start or what parts to go with that are actually available to arrive quickly in the u.s. lol any suggestions would be appreciated if you know.

The o-ring were from previous builds (flight control soft mounting). You could definitely find on eBay. Smaller ones are 1.5mm id and the larger ones are 3mm id. The screws are with the kit for the o3 cage mount and the screws for the o3 camera are the original camera mount screws.

Parts list is in description