1st and last thing the string is tied the opposite way. Which make the bow disgraceful.

Awesome 👍

Fallout 4 should have added this! 😱 Keep up the excellent work! 🔥 MAKE MORE FALLOUT WEAPONS?! 😁

sorry but is that anvil on a concrete block? wood would be better, the anvil wont ring as much and the stand wont crumble as much either also I would reccoment either sawing off the rail spikes fatter end on the bottom or twisting it more away from you, otherwise it might be awkward in the hand

Thank you so much for the shout-out! Nice looking bow!

That is awesome! Beautiful work! That prod looks like it's broken in well. Nice trigger mechanism!

This is a sweet little war bow! I love the Egyptian decurved style tips! I highly suggest you try a 100# at 32" PVC bow. It is about the sweet spot when it comes to heavy weight and efficiency in a war bow weight PVC bow. Keep up the awesome work!

Beautiful work! I love the Egyptian-style decurved bows you've made. There aren't enough people posting videos making bows in this style. Those arrows fly beautifully. With that little bow you made, I would suggest heavier points and heavier shafts. I love the look of all your bows. You are doing amazingly well. I can tell you've got a knack for this, and I'm happy that the bows you've made haven't given you any major issues. Generally PVC bows act similarly to a decently made wooden self bow of a generic hardwood wood like oak or maple. They prefer heavier arrows (I like aluminum and wood and bamboo shafts) if the goal is anything other than shooting targets. Somebody looking to hunt with a PVC bow would be benefited by watching videos on hunting with a homemade self bow. The same rules apply and such bows have similar temperaments as PVC bows. In my experience, the benefits of PVC over wood are ease of making and repairing, the relative safety compared to wood when it breaks, and the ease in which a good quality and durable to the elements bow can be made by a new bowyer compared to the learning curve of getting speed out of a wood bow (though this is highly worth it and the ability to make good wood bows is a great skill to have, in my opinion!). When compared to the best wood bows, comparable PVC bows will always be much shorter than their wood counterparts for equal speed and efficiency. As for arrow spine, I treat PVC bows like self bows. An arrow spined for a 35 pound modern recurve bow will work well in one around 15-20 pounds heavier with PVC. So for a 50-55 PVC bow. However, this spine can also be achieved by using a much heavier point on a stiffer shaft. I've found that PVC bows do their best and feel most comfortable to shoot when paired with an arrow around 10 grains per pound. For your 65 pound bow, it would be a great hunter paired with an even heavier arrow. My favorite arrows for my heavy fiberglass core PVC bows are Easton Legacy aluminum arrows with 200 grain points. Compared to fiberglass, PVC will tend to be shorter than what's available on the Western market. They are in the length range of fiberglass Asiatic style bows made of fiberglass with wood siyahs and composite with wood. These fiberglass bows will generally outperform most PVC bows and selfbows. Heavier arrows do reduce arrow speed, yet give more kinetic energy. The trade off is that the arrows will fall pretty quickly compared to fiberglass bows. A PVC bow for target shooting can make use of very light modern target arrows. A 35# PVC bow will work well with arrows spined for a 15-20 pound target bow. I highly suggest sticking with 3/4" limbs for lightweight target archery accuracy and lack of handshock. Then you'll have a great target shooter that will stick an arrow into a target with a fairly flat trajectory. I like the Easton target arrows, usually will replace the plastic fletchings for light 1-2" feathers. Thank you for this video! Do you mind if I post this on my channel feed as a suggested video?

Learn some comanche archery techniques too btw, it's good for shortbows and makes firing faster

Well ferb, I know what we're gonna do today. That short bow is atrocious... I need one

Haunt auctions and auction sites. You'll find military sabers/swords from the turn of the 19th century to be best buys. More so from from countries other than Britain or the US. The Spanish M1907 or the German M 1889 for example. European models exported to South America can be good buys as well.

Great video, very down to earth and reasonable. I have an even love for the rapier and the katana myself. The king of the thrusts and the king of the cuts respectively.

All but two of those hilts look incredibly uncomfortable.

The American Flag is what got my comments and subscription! Plus the im an America bladesmith!

I couldn't decide on what kind of sword I wanted so I got a spear instead 😉

First thing is to work out what type of sword you want and why. Form and Function, Historical or Hobby. Do you want it to collect, or to use? (for example 'cutting' practice). Do you want to wear it as part of a cosplay? How do you define 'real'? Modern reproductions can be as good or better than the original period pieces, they can be 'real' while not being 'contemporary'. In regards to modern reproductions, modern monosteels with the correct properties and temper have the potential to outperform any contemporary piece because we have more controlled processes and better steels, better forges more consistent temperatures and we have the science in regards to maximising potential and purpose - take for example 5160 steel with chrome and silicon, 9260 which adds manganese that makes a really tough blade that will retain shape far better than contemporary blades, L6 Bainite and S7 Shock steel can be used to make blades the smiths of old could only dream of with properly tempered T10 tool steel being the 'holy grail' of sword steel in my humble opinion; but modern reproductions can also be poorly constructed with blades made from the wrong materials and incorrect temper. Blades advertised as 'carbon steel' may use the cheapest 1045 medium carbon steel (the absolute minimum you will need for a functional blade but the hardness and edge retention will be at best poor), a good 1060 steel that will hold a better edge and not deform so much, 1070, or even 1095 steel (that usually has a bit of manganese thrown into it to make it not so brittle). Do your research of the manufacturer, read reviews. Avoid cheap 'damascus' steel like the plague! If you want a 'real' sword as piece of history, that is another facet of buying a sword. You will need to balance availability and condition, which usually determines the price you will have to budget for. For example we have a blade issued to a gentleman who won a Victoria Cross. It isn't in the best condition as he carried it through more than one war before he was killed in action in world war 1. It is real, but while there are far 'better' blades out there of this design it is the history that makes it special and makes it worth ten times what another similar blade would be worth that did not have that provenance. Another example is that I was recently looking for a flintlock pistol or two - to get a decent modern made reproduction was relatively expensive, so I went to an auction and spent about 1 1/2 times what the new modern repro ones would have cost, but I now have a matched pair of genuine early 19th Century flintlocks made by John Twigg. (I couldn't afford the ones from Joseph Manton, though they were lovely!)

if the field points are screw in removable ones, it would be interesting to see how much better they perform with 175 or 200 grain points on them. I rekon it would tighten your group right up

I might've missed my apologies. What is your scope?

The correct way to string a bow is to use a bow stringer. Very easy to twist a limb and possibly destroy the bow using the step through method.

We prefered the first one

Could you forge a flamberge rapier with bowl (the hand protector)

Did your Midwest hand guard come loose on you? Did you apply thread locker?

I think that's my sword 🤔

Frst

I use blueing often. It really looks nice.

So glad to see Dr Pepper! Waaay better than that Pepsi stuff!

Nice way to spend a day

AWESOME I'm hoping that someone from the MadMax movies, sees this and gives you a call.

What type of metal was the spring?

Nice. That’s a tough job for sure. Lots of hammering.

Looks Awesome I need to try some rebar blades

hat wearing redditor

Not a blacksmith, but definitely cool and helpful tips!

The backyard bower channel is great he has several books that I own that are building making books too

bro this is fucking sick. exactly the kind of stuff I want to learn how to do, and you've got great music taste too!

Blade making is cool, music sux

Awesome blade I love those snake like blades cool song too

I wouldn’t be surprised if this appeared in the new Dark Souls

Edge retention test on the kitchen counter plant! I dare ya!

Nice❤

"Grippage" a technical term...😊

The best zombie apocalypse weapon is a .22 with one round. Budumbum

perfection with the chainsaw. I want to be the horror villan to the zombies.

That vorpal blade is a thing of beauty but the bulldog is true to its name. She may be rough on the eyes but she is sturdier and lasts longer than most marriages.

Double the size and that'd be a decent spearhead.

I had this exact idea while watching your spoon video earlier 😂

Perfect description for the steel pipe ❤

Was expecting you to roll up the spoon into a bodkin but a broadhead that size is way scarier.

Would love to make one of these if they didn't come with jail time and caning in my country 😂

Early trench knives are scary. The fact that they were meant to stab through helmets would make piercing skulls an easy job.