Thank you very much! I was trying not to break the plastic too. great instructional. much appreciated.👍👍👍

Kato passenger light kits are absolute junk!

Kato really does make their stuff user friendly

Took me a while to get the hang of soldering, but it works very well. What I like is I can use black and red wire, and not have to use Kato blue and white wire. Also, this does not melt the plastic ballast or burn holes through it. Thanks!

Perhaps you should update your video.

Did you test Tam Valley DFJ?

you know this would be much better if you showed how to wire it all up. there is no wiring how too's ? WHY ??? nice video except for the wiring how to....

if you use that center hole in the pads and counter sink a tapered screw through into the car and put a light spring between the car bottom and the pad around the screw with a nut inside the car the pads would put a bit of down pressure on the pads...just be sure the weight of the car is more then the spring...don't want a lot of down pressure ....should glide along and the spring will ensure the pads are flat and keep even pressure!?

Thanks! Big help to me.

The link to the light video I mentioned earlier. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4PEopWKbdanm9U

Thank you Don for a fantastic triple video of how to install the Kato light kits. I've just bought a Kato Thalys n scale set which is more or less identical to yours when it comes to fitting lights. I've put lights before into other Kato sets and they look great but I've had more difficulty with this latest set. The height of the led unit is not precise in these coaches and I think I've pushed mine a bit too low down, but I can raise them a bit if necessary. However the one thing that I was not aware of, and you have solved it for me, was how to fit the clear plastic roof lenses into the body of the coaches. I didn't know that there were corresponding lugs and recesses in the lens and the window strips which when positioned all clipped into place. I learned something new today !! I'll take mine apart and try again, I have some spare lenses. I did put some tiny spots of superglue to hold the windows in place as I got fed up of them always falling out. One more thing, I think I noticed that you have the same problem as me, the end of the coach where the light is fitted is much brighter than the opposite end. I saw a KZbin video yesterday where someone has put a bit of black sticky tape over the led and the first bit of the lens and somehow it stops all that glare and diffuses the light further down the lens. I'll try it to see if it works. Thanks again for your patient and informative videos.

Thank you for the tip about the X26 paint. I’ve already placed my order. The paint should arrive Monday. It’s funny as I was thinking this morning if I could paint the LED. Cheers!

I don’t see how the diffuser makes much difference. I want a more incandescent look in my Orient Express cars. Thoughts please? Cheers!

I enjoyed your video. It was helpful. If you could have someone work your camera that would really be great! Cheers.

Great video. I am going to be doing this in my model but I replace the capacitor with a 100uF 27v type as that removes the dangers of overload/blowout. I hope that Kato will consider moving over to Next18 boards and pre fit a speaker inside to make it more plug and play without any filing of LED's or milling. Here is a like from me.

no capacitors are in there ? i think they are required, thanks

Thank you for the great tutorial.

Which end of bar do you break off for the end car?

I have seen elsewhere that dcc voltage is too much for the motor. Do you know if that is correct?

Thanks Don! Having done some of my Metra cab cars I was slightly perplexed with the lack of guidance, but you proved my suspicions correct and kept me from disassembling the car to find out!

This is the best demonstration, I have seen on installing these lights, the zoom feature really helped, one thing I did differently was put a strip on of aluminum foil on the inner ceiling of the car to help even out and reflect the lighting throughout the interior, the older Kato light kits used to come with a piece of reflective tape, I noticed the older kits had more even lighting in the cars because of that.

You make it look so simple. PS - Penticton Challenge? I've done IM Canada when it was in Penticton 3 times: 93, 96, and 98.

Thank you❤!

💪 𝓅𝓇o𝓂o𝓈𝓂

Looks like a bunch of fun!! Thanks for sharing and I look forward to seeing your next installment of the trailer build. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours my friend.

Look forward to seeing the next installment of the conversion. Thanks for sharing

I got a 6 pack for $30 new and shipped in 2 days. What is up with Canada?

I just picked up the light kit for my Kato Silver Trains. I appreciate the time you spent on the install videos. They are helpful Thanks.

Thanks for this, I had no clue from the instructions with the lights, plus the writing is too small for me to read easily.. For a start it wasn't obvious that the led was in that unit and not spaced out along the strip. Mind you as retired engineer from heavy machinery I am seriously struggling with N gauge parts. I can't even get the trains onto the track easily.

Wow, that was a lot of work! Thanks for the info. I only need one.

Hi don you have a great channel im definitely subscribing look forward to more updates of your layout your videos are very helpful thanks 👍

Super helpful, thank you for posting

Thanks for this Don, I'm in the process of doing two of these conversions before committing to all six of my engines. I see a lot of people dislike this decoder because of its weak sound, but I find that reprogramming it with one of John McMasters projects helped it a bunch. I do think that it provides better sound left under the hood as you have done rather than in the fuel tank as it drastically improved the volume when the hood is installed.

Thank you. This video is very helpful.

😒 Promo SM!

So you cleaned everything off. Don’t you need to regrease everything?

could you extend the wires for the capacitor so it will reach the back of the loco frame?

Don, your instructional videos are excellent! Photography is perfect and your narration is very professional. I thank you for taking the time to help us all in the hobby.

How do you keep the lights from flickering?

Have you ever done this with a SD70Ace

everything was fine until he used electrical tape. amateur. NEVER put electrical tape in a locomotive.

Really don't understand why BLI went with this pickup scheme. For the price you pay you'd think they could use bearings for pickup rather than what amounts to glorified wiper pickup.

Good for you! I have a tough time just getting the front coupler on

I always strip down any used engine first thing before it go on the layout. Most of the time it just needs to have the excess oil and grease removed but sometimes you find hair, fur, dust bunnies, thread caught up in the mechanics and trucks. Yuck.

Great vid, thanks! will this work on an F7? Thanks again. (Your newest subscriber)

Hello I'm looking to get this locomotive but before I do I would like to know if there is space to install a sound decoder? You think it would fit? Thank you :)

I bought a BLI NW2 and it is a dog. When it wants to move, it does for about an inch, then stops. It has turned me away from BLI, although I'll give your method of 'improving the running qualities' a go.

2:30 track switch where did you get it or what is the name

Yikes

Too bad Aztec trains does not mill n scale frames any longer