I'm having the same exactly issue with my 14 f250 being intermittent. Dealership quoted $180 for diagnostics alone, not including camera or harness replacement if it comes to that. Currently waiting for a replacement camera to arrive today and will do it myself. This doesn't look too difficult, thanks for the walkthrough.

And the video overall

Thanks for the numbers my bosses truck is in need of this repair and his old self needs it lol

Thanks for the video. Purchased the backup camera on eBay for $170. Works great. It came with the lines and zoom feature so I didn’t have to go to the dealer and have them sync it after I installed the camera. I saved over $800 as the dealer want 1k to replace the camera and install. I was able to install in about 10 minutes thanks to your video. Appreciate you.

I'm currently trouble shooting this problem myself. I have tried a few of the tricks and it will work for a little bit. I was wondering if replacing the camera solved your problem or did you continue to have intermittent issues.

I was told at the ford dealership if you changed your back up camera the truck would have to be programmed by the dealership. Is that true?

IMPORTANT.: My backup camera 2015 SD, 190k miles, would be only intermittent, not foggy. I troubleshot it to the wiring to the camera assembly and found the wiring pins got oxidation on them. After cleaning the pins on both camera and socket it did the trick. It took 30 min of labor for me, however went out again after 6 years and this time I'm using dielectric grease on the connector to keep the contacts cleaner and reseal the old emblem with a little bit of silicone to keep the rain out and hold it tight. Great video, Thank You!

That exposed fuel tank is driving me nuts. Hope it never leaves pavement

nice, thank you for going through the details.

I’ve got a hydraulic press if you need that capability in the future.

Older video, lots of good information, I recently installed electronic ignition on my 1931 Model A, I wired it exactly 💯 like the instructions said, my car won't start, my car is 6 volt, the kit I installed goes into old distributor, do you know of any information on troubleshooting this system, when trying to start engine, it will not attempt to start, just like the switch is off, with test light touching- negative side of coil, test light will come on with switch on, any advice would be helpful, THANKS. SUBSCRIBED.

Thanks!! I have a 15 with the same issues.

Ty!

Review your recording and you can see how you took it apart, silly😂

Could this be done in a day in a 6 hour window?

You sound like a fun guy to hang out with! Thanks for the video. I’m doing this job now on my ‘64 CJ5

Plastic piece from emblem stuck in push pin. Is there a Part number or replacement info for those push pins?

Thanks for the video and guidance wise one! Big help for sure.

Thanks for the video I cleaned and disconnected all the plugs nothing worked. I ended up checking the camera pigtail as last resort and sure enough it was the the problem with that ground cable.

Great video sir!

If you are entering the Model A Ford hobby leave electronic ignition alone! Period! First of all they are not really more efficient and give you no warning when the quit - and they do. Read Ford Barn online and see how people are trashing them. The coil induction system that Henry and the fellas designed pump 40,000 volts across the gap in your plugs. Way more than your need even if you are running a higher compression head such a Brumfield or police. The "Model A" distributor that the gentleman presents has been modified with modern points. That's fine, but just know it is not true Model A. If you buy or own a Model A you will most likely end up touring or driving with other Model A-ers. Another reason for sticking with standard coil induction ignition is this. If you or someone else end up with an ignition problem there will be plenty of people, with parts on hand, who will be able to help you fix it in a jiffy. The parts and procedures are time tested and true, widely known, and have been used by millions for decades. Not so electronic ignition. The standard Model A ignition system is simple and highly generic. I've driven thousands of miles in all kinds of terrain and weather and the ignition system works fine. Instead of investing time and money in proprietary electronic equipment that no body can help you with when it goes bad, learn how to properly maintain your Model A's coil induction system. Take the little bit of time it takes to look up the specs. Pop for a $30 copy of Model A Mechanic by Les Andrews, or one of the other authors who know what they're talking about. The standard Model A Ignition system is not hard to learn, maintain, and adds a lot to the hobby.

Why not fix u joint at the same time. O well, might as well do it twice.

I have a 73 CJ5 also. I think the reason you don't have a side marker on rear passenger side is because that was where the original space tire mount was suppose to be. Looks like when body work was done to your rear quarter panel the holes for the spare tire mount were covered over. Thanks for making the videos. Please keep it up.

Typical ford dealer, seems everything needs a module at a minimum of 600.00

Own a 250 super biggest piece of shit Ive ever owned .....can not believe the amount of repairs this needs just to keep it on the road . .. can not wait to get my Tesla cyber truck hopefully the operating cost is half of this piece of crap

😳 how did you turn off the reverse beeping

Thank you for this video! We pulled our tailgate off today and forgot about the camera system. Ended up yanking a couple of the wires loose at the camera side connector. I was ready to take the tailgate apart from the inside to get to the camera until I saw your video. Once I saw the video it was a ten minute fix. Again, much thanks!!!

You have a video replacing those front brakes and rear brakes let me know thank you

Yo how did you silence the beeper though?

AMAZON HAS camera, options with and without, monitor, rear mirror, or in handle from 50.00 to 150.00 not 300.00-600.00

Try Neodymium magnets epoxied on to the back of the emblem and trim ring to reuse the old "one-time" use emblem.

Thanks for the video. My camera just went out this morning. I'll do exactly what you did!

Did your zoom function work after you replaced your camera? I just replaced mine and everything worked except for the zoom. 2013 F250 using the same camera you used.

Thanks for the info Question is taking the fender off pretty easy? easier to work on the engine with it off? Thanks

How diesel time works

So a year and a half later, how is the backup camera?

Thanks for sharing this process. It provided me the exact information and overview that I needed to prep me to work on mine. Cheers!

Bob - has your new camera been good since then?

Did you check to see if the #3 valve was up all the way, an old army trick, look down in the oil fill cap to the left, it ahould be all the way up.

Hi. I have a 1977 CJ7 and an AMC20 rear differential (i think).. My question is: Is the Axle Pinion Seal the only seal that is located there.?? I have noticed my rear differential seems to be weeping fluid from around that spot and slowly dripping down the bottomside of the differential - so I was going to try to Correct the seal from allowing the fluid to weep outside.

Wiring harness. Ground wire not installed.

timing sounded late, exhaust note was deep....advance the dizzy a little bit. just seen the date on this video, oh well lol.

esta fuera de tiempo.....parece que esta muy avanzado

Great video. I think I can replace my Ford F-150 backup camera myself now. Save me some money 💰👍😁

I hope you get this fast enough I'm not a jeep guy nor am I a old jeep guy I have a 1987 jeep wrangler 4.2 with a Manual transmission in my shop with a starter grinding issue apparently its pretty common I can't seem to fix this dam thing i can't the starter to mesh right with the flex plate anything helps thank you.

Thanks for the quick overview. I just bought a 1931 Model A Roadster that's been sitting in a barn in Idaho for a little over 40 years. The engine turns freely, and it seems to otherwise be in pretty good shape. I have two other 1931 Model A trucks, and I just did an engine swap on one of them (I found a 1928 Tudor car engine that I replaced the original engine in my 1931 truck - the original engine piston #1 exploded and the engine was not repairable). I took the top of the distributor off and I see that it's all original. The part on your distributor that you said was "angry" is also in need of help on my Roadster. I want to upgrade to the points system that you have - is it difficult to do? Thanks.

What size of socket uyou used

As far as trying to remember how to position the new camera back into its place, too bad you didn't have photos or possibly a video to refer to. LOL!

Thanks for the video Rob. It's informative. I didn't know the difference

torque and back off 1/4 turn