Crap waste of time

I saw Monty watching you!!😊

What a disaster

long form video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHO9d2hpgbeKh68

My man! Badass I must say. Nostalgia overload seeing these trails! Love where this content is going. My sister just bought a brand new Tahoe which is equipped with a "birds eye view" camera system. Some seriously impressive stuff. It also has a passive system which when engaged is very similar to what police cars have to tell the officer if someone is walking up on their vehicle in the dead of night. What a time to be alive my boy!

Wicked idea

if you can get your hands on a cheap analogue FPV camera for diy drones it could help with the motion blur. plus you can change the lens out for cheap and adjust the FOV to your liking. just make sure it's IR sensitive. Run cam makes good quality low light cameras. you could have more than one and use a FPV camera switcher to change to a back up cam. just ideas,Best of luck.

the night lap in part one took 11min, this time it took 4min 7sec. (6min 53sec faster!) my first test run during the day took 2min 14sec so we are even closing in on how fast I can go during the day! one thing to note is my camera is washing out the center of the TV so it looks like that bright spot is still on the hood. however viewing it in-person, the bright spot has gone with the camera replacement. huge thanks to bbspro for the music! youtube.com/@bbspro121 PART ONE: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4ekq6yBhN54e6s

another big presh to @bbspro for the music! - youtube.com/@bbspro121 watch part one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJyXkp5-ntWmjs0 a more accurate way to trace the in/output curcits would be to use the signal generator on the oscilloscope. put the same waveform on both channels, then compare them instead of trying to compare live music.

did you know I also do live streams? if you enjoyed this video, then you should check out the "live" tab on my channel. in my last stream we assembled an ultrasonic levitation kit: kzbin.infoUYsMJ3-96zc?feature=share

A micro controller and some logic attached to that would give us a cheap trans controller. I really want to go down that rabbit hole and see if I can make it work.

Really neat! I wonder if the shifters in things like the Initial D arcade machines or similar driving cabinets would work 🤔

We can hear that high pitched sound....

You are awesome!

Always make sure to clean your tip

next ultrasonic kit is about measuring distance

finished kit with floating balls: kzbin.infoUYsMJ3-96zc?si=CjEF2GqvnvHgBeOV

Magic?

Im working from the bottom with engine still in, like you. Can i just put the shaft in the oil pump 1st, and carefully bolt the oil pump back on?? Does that make it simultaneously line up with that distributor hole? As long as the pump is flush against the mounting area?

Appreciate this video man. I’m going to attempt this because I’m hearing a little clatter in the bottom end of my 1987 5.0 hopefully it’s just rod bearings and it’s not too bad.

What's the label cost. I found a 1990 f 150 that's needs a oil pump replacement. Good price but I'm worried label will be as much as the truck itself 😟

I hate the Ford AOD with its sensitive computer, which will trigger limp mode for having the wrong brake lamp signal (LED's) from what I gather. I thought about bypassing that pile of mess with this kind of idea but if it turns out to be a bad shift solenoid then its just best to get a manual transmission. Loved this video of course.

Reminds me of tech school that and vtec switches are clutch

Good stuff. Years ago, I had the thought of doing this to a Mustang trans installed in a first gen Explorer, cuz the old Explorer transmissions were pretty much junk. I brought it up in the Explorer forum. Not many people were interested, so it died there. Glad to see someone decided to take direct control over their auto trans.

Wheres reverse ?

Yo brother, I haven't finished the video yet but maybe the hood reflects the light? What about bumper height lights or fog lights having bright infrared. I will be trying this. Saw a movie with a corvette with something similar. I'd like to add lasers as well to measure distance, kinda like the concept of lidar Just so I can get used to the corners of the car. Whiskers of some sort or feelers. 🤷🏽‍♂️ this is dope either way haha well done and thanks for sharing!

Are you from Massachusetts by chance

Clever wiring. Is there any way you could put a safety in place to not accidentally bump it into 1st gear on the highway?

Wow this comment is too long. But this video is too exciting and I took too much adhd meds earlier. Your camera probably does Bayer filtering, which just wrecks infrared. Couple that with infrared already being a jank multiplier for a lot of lenses and sensors. To keep with the DIY inexpensive theme, maybe try taping some black paper into a cone or tube with the right length and aperture that you could put around the IR spotlight and/or around the camera lens like a post-surgery head-cone thing for a dog. Could fix the shine/emissivity from the hood by just blocking it from view. Or, you could get a different camera with a physical IR filter and just remove the filter (fair warning, cameras are not easy to take apart and reassemble), or you could go the opposite way and put a really dark filter over your existing camera's lens. Orrrr, small analog cameras are ridiculously cheap nowadays, they're often sold as backup cams or security cams or hidden cameras (yikes haha). Idk but this is a really cool project, I subscribed!

This is brilliant, but wouldn't it be easier to use a microcontroller? You can get little boards with a bunch of relays and an esp1 or esp32 on it for a few dollars.

This is what it would be like if we built lights, then built solar panels underneath the lights to power the lights.

Intelligent!

I was wondering about pressure modulation when you mentioned it early on. The Jeep AW4 uses a TV cable, but other versions of the trans, like the Toyota A340, use a modulating solenoid in place of the cable. All you really need is a potentiometer tied to the throttle. So it would be low pressure at idle, but increase pressure as you accelerate. Something like a TPS (throttle position sensor) would work nicely. Just need to know the voltage or resistance range required. With a standard potentiometer the rate can be controlled by arm length, with a rod extending form somewhere on the throttle to the potentiometer. A micro controller will work, but the simpler the better!

I've been driving my 63 Rambler with AMC/Jeep 4.0L and AW4 transmission like this for 20 years now. I had an issue with the original trans controller a few months after installing back in 2003. Couldn't figure out the issue (still haven't completely, but I think it's the speed sensor... though changing it doesn't help and the magnets are on the rotor...). So I wired three toggle switches. It shifts similar to your Ford, but the solenoid sequence is different -- both off is actually 4th, both on first, one on/one off second and third. I used this initially for testing, but drove the car like that for about a year. Easy to get 2/3 shifts (and up/down to 2 or 3) wrong! So I used a rotary switch with diodes. It's a simple twist of the dial to change gears. I burned one up, but it lasted about 12 years, and three years was daily driving back and forth to work -- until I retired from the USAF. If I do it again I'll wire it like a five speed -- 1, 2, 3, 3+lock-up, 4+lock-up. I usually leave the lock-up switch on, but with the AW4 there is a "jerk" when shifting between 3nd and 3rd with the lock-up engaged. I can mitigate this by letting off the gas when shifting. That's fine when I'm driving, not so much if someone else does. If I take it to an alignment shop or for some reason someone else is driving I just turn the lock-up off and tell them to leave it off unless going for a long distance on the highway. Wired like a five speed (I'm using a 6 position rotary switch -- couldn't find a four) eliminates letting off the gas or using the lock-up switch. It could just as easily be wired with just the 5th position locking the converter, but if driving say 45-50 for a long distance 4th isn't needed, but lock-up is nice to have. No manipulating the lock-up switch though!

I made one a few years back, used an Arduino UNO microcontroller with opto isolators to mosfets. All fit on a breadboard stacked onto the Arduino. It had programmable shift points and lock up. It could also work in manual paddle shifter mode. The shift points naturally requires engine rpm fed into it. An Arduino can be prgrammed to output the PWM as well. You need to isolate the inputs/outputs because the Ardiono run at 5v and have very limited current capacity. They are cheap (about $20) and you have to write the code but makes a really nice adjustable system. Also handy for diagnosing transmission issues. The transmissions with the onboard tcms can be tricky to avoid turning on the check engine light. If they have feed back into the tcm you have to handle that as well.

Idk why you didn't just make it voice activated shifting, it's super easy bro. Telling your tran to shift is far more masculine.

Umm what about reverse...?

I have seen this set up in a semi-automatic buses years ago.

Instead of diodes a double pole switch?

Just in time for a decade of dual clutch transmissions which do this and shift 100 times faster than most humans.

how do you get reverse?

I control my trans with household light switches. I like how smooth they are.

Excellent

Just explanation I have ever heard Thank you

Oh no he forgot reverse