@@matt06sg That's it. Thank you.

Olá. As fichas das luzes não se ligam diretamente às fichas da mota. As fichas das luzes ligam-se ao arnês que tem as ligações à bateria, ao DataDim e relé. Minuto 21'40 mostra onde ligo a ficha à ficha da mota só com positivo para alimentar o relé, que por sua vez controla as luzes.

​@@b.toscano4148mas não há um adaptador que ligue directamente as fichas dos denali, as fichas de origem da moto? Obg

@@luispbdias pode haver, não encontrei no mercado online. Qualquer das formas há 2 razões para não ligar luzes auxiliares não originais (OEM) diretamente. A primeira pq a amperagem necessária para luzes funcionarem pode ser maior que o "output" dado pela mota e elas não funcionam; e segunda pq as luzes não OEM ligadas diretamente à bateria têm, dessa forma, mais estabilidade e garantem o brilho máximo. No caso deste modelo da Denali, as S4, como têm 2 intensidades têm que ser ligadas com o arnês e tudo mais, para tirar partido das dupla intensidade. Ligando-as diretamente só se pode utilizar 1 intensidade. A ficha das luzes tem 3 pinos ( +, +, -) e a ficha da mota tem 2 (+, -).

@@easyfromtnbtw3555 sure it does

👍 cool thanks

Hi there, sorry for taking so long. Good question. I don't actually know exactly what all those wires do. I'd have to take everything apart and test them individually. Let me watch my video again and in case I come up with any conclusion I'll let you know. Hope you've found an answer already. Cheers

@@b.toscano4148 I have finally been able to extract that information from Denali. They have a nice diagram that shows the purpose of each connection, but they really don’t want to let anyone have it. Just buy their harness and do it all how they have decided the lights should work. Typical Denali again but I HATE that level of overt control they’re trying to exert. They make good products, but their attitude means I would avoid them if at all possible.

Not as strong as steel, but enough for me. It has done it's job to protect the fairing a couple of times already, at very slow speed though.

Hi there. It's the CROSSPRO Crash bars and Skid Plate. Look it up 👍🏻

Talvez, não me preocupei com isso pq tenho a certeza que as ligações estão bem feitas. O circuito está protegido com um fusível de 10Amp e como o sinal positivo vem do connector das luzes auxiliares, a BCU (Body Control Unit) desliga as luzes no caso de haver alguma anomalia. Numa conversa informal com um mecânico da Honda onde comprei a mota ele disse-me que se as ligações estiverem bem feitas não haverá motivo para afetar a garantia.

Eu gosto de trabalhar na mota e vou até onde acho que consigo ir sem por em risco a mota. Se comprares este produto da Denali e pedires ao concessionário onde compraste a mota para as montar com este setup, os mecânicos e eletricistas vão encontrar uma solução e ficas garantido.

Hi Stephen. Thanks. I'm not an expert but we can work it out together. Send me a private message thru Instagram instagram.com/toscanid?igsh=aWtxZ2gzOHBkYXRn I'll share my email and we'll find a solution.

It didn't make sense to me because I don't do that kind of riding. If I hit the bottom of the bike I just want the peace of mind of having the engine somehow protected.

Da pesquisa que fiz só as Denali é que têm 2 intensidades e uma variedade de cabos/acessórios para montagem. São de facto caras. Eu comprei numa super promoção da Motocard, mesmo assim acima do valor da concorrência. A possibilidade de integrar as luzes auxiliares nos comandos da mota existe sempre, desde que se façam as ligações certas. Os mecânicos da Honda fazem-no com quaisquer faróis. A OSRAM tem faróis porreiros, bem mais em conta mas, não têm o "harnês" para ligar à bateria, nem outros acessórios.Terias que comprar à parte, existem no mercado online. Ou ligar diretamente nos conectores da mota como mostro no video, mas não sei a amperagem é suportada. Se optares por faróis de 1 única intensidade, a integração nos comandos da mota permite 1 de 2 coisas: ligar os faróis no dashboard e não sincronizar com os máximos; ou ficar sempre sincronizado com os máximos, com a possibilidade de ligar e desligar no dashboard. Enfim... muita coisa é possível. Abraço

@@b.toscano4148 obrigado pela resposta.por acaso vi os da OSRAM e são os que mais gosto até.terei que ver essas ligações apesar de não ter muito jeito para partes elétricas.se calhar opto pelas diretas a bateria com opção de desligar ligar normal.

Hi. No vibration at all. Can't feel any difference before and after the bars and plate.

@@b.toscano4148 brilliant. It’s this or outback motortek. These are light, but I’m new to dirt so… still thinking

No. They're CROSSPRO. Design is very similar to SW-Motech. Both plate and bars made of aluminium. I don't ride crazy off road. Have never hit the bottom hard, but think the plate is solid enough to protect the bike from harder impacts. I did fall off at low speed and bars did their job, only scratched, didn't bend. So far so good.

@@b.toscano4148 these are my top pick at the moment but 170euro to ship and import is a bit of a question. I’m in Japan

Hi Andy, thanks. Potholes on portuguese roads are part of the norm too ;) 3D Cycle has a few nice plug and play solutions that make everything easier. If they help you out with the desired 2 intensities you'll have on your bike pretty much what I have on mine. The Transalp XL750 deserves a better/bigger headlights, and a good pair of aux lights make it work perfectly. Beware, the 3D Cycle harness is plugged on the 12v socket connector in order to get power to feed the aux lights. In case you want to run both 12v socket and aux lights you'll need a power splitter from that connector. They have that too. You'll love the bike. Cheers

Qual é o acessório?

Olá. O conjunto vem com 2 suportes de aço inox (ver minuto 16:25) que se montam na mota, em locais pré definidos para esse efeito, e a proteção monta-se depois nesses suportes. Portanto a resposta à pergunta é não, não se monta diretamente na mota. A proteção original da Honda tem uma montagem diferente, pois monta nas barras.

@@b.toscano4148 I watched 2 videos that show the tabs to cut off the first time you take everything apart and then you don’t have to remove the dash and can swing the tank up to get to the air box but I haven’t tried it yet.

Not sure, never asked. Have used them always as clincher. Maybe with proper rim tape and valve you can.

Hi Kay! 1. It has a carbon braking surface as rim is fully made of carbon. Breaking performance is just great. Have been using these wheels for the last 3 years and breaking pads don't wear off easily though. 2. I wanted a tough and durable full carbon wheels that could cope with my riding style. I don't go easy with them over cobbles, rough tarmac, long decents (long breaking)... but wanted also something that could deliver confort, speed on flat roads and didn't compromise on hilly roads. These Mavic have been perfect for all that. If I had the money I would have a pair of 50/60 mm deep rims for my triathlons and a pair of 20/30 mm for my mountain road rides. But I don't, so these can do it all. You'll notice the weight change from 1.9Kg to 1.5Kg ish. Lighter wheels spin faster. 3. Check wheels specs at tech.mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/data/mavic_tech.php?display=product&family=1008&subfamily=1043&macronu=23433 I'm not into deep mechanical details. The guy that service my wheels from time to time said these have a different rear hub than previous Mavic models. More like DT Swiss system and likely to be more durable. I know Mavic hubs have given problems in the past but I had none so far. The only down side so far are the spokes. They're not stainless steal, which you would expect them to be on a such expensive wheelset. So if you don't wipe water off and don't protect them with some kind of moisture repelant after wet rides, they'll rust! Shame. Apart from that, very happy with them. Cheers!

Once a year as I'm not riding in the rain that much. According to the User's Manual Mavic recommends to clean and lub after every ride and a full service/check every year by a Mavic approved dealer. Apparently the design of these hubs is better and it's less likely to wear out quickly and get loose as other Mavic hubs. No issues with my set at all yet.

tiago pernas desculpa a demora mas esqueci-me completamente de voltar ao video. Estou muito satisfeito. Peso, robustez, travagem. A subir não notas o perfil, aceleram bem. A rolar são rápidas. Só me chateia o som do carreto. Como as rodas fazem alguma ressonância, aquele som de roda empenada ( que não está de todo) ressoa bastante. Tirando isso perfeitas para mim.

B.Toscano a minha dúvida é mesmo nas subidas e em termos de buracos na estrada , se elas se aguentam...

Hi rickjesse. Serra da Arrábida, Portugal. Look it up on Google Maps and mark as a must see in your trip to Portugal. After the ride you can lunch anywhere in the closest town (Setúbal) and have a tasty fresh grilled fish. Cheers.

Sorry for the late reply. I think the yellow pads are very good with that rim braking surface. Together are the perfect match for a powerful braking, as Mavic claims. Tires are top quality as well. No flats yet, good grip, and perfect size to me (25mm). I'm very happy with that wheelset in general.

If I understand the last part of your question, yes. Rim turns a bit yellowish along braking surface after the first couple of rides. It does come off easily with some rubbing with a wet cloth. I haven't tried that Continental tyre.

Phaidrus hello. So far so good. I'm very happy with them. Video shot in Portugal, in a beautiful place called Serra da Arrábida, surrounded by mountain and sea.

Hi dinesh nadar. Let me tell you why I have chosen these and not any other great wheels on the market. I had the same trouble to choose as you do. I wanted something all-round. Good on flat and hilly roads, resistent and durable to ride on all sorts of tarmac/pavement but also lightweight and good looking. I do Gandfondos and Triathlons (sprint, olympic and half ironman distance), therefore needed at least a 40mm hight to get some aero advantage with a 25mm width. Didn't want anything above 50mm. So these are, so far, perfect for any ride. I have also a 50mm profile wheelset and to be honest, there's no big difference in aero, being the 50's much more unstable under crosswind. I think you won't notice any significant difference between a 40mm or 45mm wheel, unless you're a pro with every single watt to record. Hope that's been helpful. Good rides with whatever you choose.

Hi mikes1984. Leave an email below and I'll send it to you.

Thanks!

patocycles.com Porto, Portugal Tag price: 1990€

Ask them for a quote

It really is Brian. Thank you.

I am seriously considering these wheels to upgrade my bike. Can you tell me how wide they are and how wide the tire is? My bike is pretty tight at the chainstays. My current tires say 25 but measure 28 mm wide on my current wheels and they fit. If you can tell me the width of wheel and tire it would help me decide.

Both rim and tire width 25mm. I'm very happy with the grip and stiffness improvement if compared with a 23mm rim/tire set I had before.

Thank you! I think you just helped me pick my next bike upgrade!