@@samcasson4871 right around 13k

Nope, everything is interchangeable.

Yes, the two hose connections on the back of the head need to be connected. The port off the back of the head (left side) should feed into the the connection on the hard line (right side)

You can get them pretty close, but let's say something like a cafe racer rear hoop with the little kick up on the end, I had to make a custom piece to hold the tube ahead of where JD2 originally set theirs up. It worked ok and got the job done but if I ever have to make another one of those hoops, I'll probably make something a little better. And this was literally starting another bend right next to the previous bend. I think I only had about a half inch in-between the two bends.

@@Otto_Factory Half an inch is good to know. I'm looking to do headers for bike engines so can have kind of a 90 followed by a bend in another direction so seems like this is a good option.

@@abigstorm yeah, just check the wall thickness of your header tubes, I think JD2 has a minimal wall thickness to prevent kinking the tube.

Lol haven't gotten that far yet. I got mixed answers when I first did it. Some said yes, it was only for traction control, some said no. I hope to have it moving under its own power this summer, then I can give a definitive answer.

I have not, I have a friend with a legit machine shop 2 minutes up the road from me. Anything I can't handle I just get him to do it.

It is definitely easier to mark and set tubes off the end of the die, but adding another +/- in the measurement just isn't worth it for me. I'd end up forgetting to add or subtract and end up with scrap tube lol.

I think the D21 is around 55" wms in the rear. The S14 is around 57½"

SC300/Mk4 Supra

You're my 69 😍

Yeah, glad people can use it! Measure 100 times lol

It's still there, right at 4:05

The mig nozzle couldn't get into the space, I also tried the tig and could not get a good tungsten angle. The stick rod angle wasn't perfect but I know enough about stick welding that I can take the not great angle and basically pull the rod up a hair and let the weld puddle settle right in the joint.

@Otto Factory Thanks for responding. I know welding up all this work you had done was an important step forward. Now understand your choice. Been watching for a while. Got a Hardbody myself doing some work on. Ready to see what that 1J does for yours. Peace

Love you 😘🤟

🤣🤣🤣

Are grand marquis rear ends the same as the crown Vic’s as far as years go

@@jaygarza9324 I believe they are exactly the same.

@@chucksgarage7165 thanks for the response I just wanted to make sure before purchasing

Nah sorry, I just designed them in a few minutes.

Viking double adjustable with a custom lower mount for the R34 uprights.

just started the same suspension swap on a datsun 620 over on my channel! debating between a k24 anda beams engine for it

It was, picked up some coolant hose at the local weld supply house and fixed it the other day. It seems to be working okay now.

I don't know, I'd imagine it's close but I can't say as I've never worked on a non vvti

No sorry, I'm in NY

Technically it is the same on all of them. You're going from the pivot point out to the tube on a perpendicular line. Sorry for the late response, KZbin isn't great with comment notifications.

I believe the line out of the back of the head and the one that returns to the back of the water pump need to be connected, all the small stuff on the oil filter side can get capped off.

@@Otto_Factory I do not recommend deleting the oem oilcooler or heater core and just connecting the hoses like mentioned. If there is no resistance in the loop you will basically just pump water around your engine. Also I would not block the line leaving the head because of air getting trapped. Therefore, block the waterport on the block from the oilcooler and keep the return from the head back to the waterpump but add a restrictor (3mm) to it so air can evacuate.

Thanks, I mean I'm just here trying to pass along stuff I've learned over the years and help other people. I think since this truck went off the deep end and turned into a full space frame chassis, and has been in that stage for so long people lose interest in seeing the same thing over and over. A lot of the channels I can stomach (there aren't many) usually start with smaller builds and can make lots of progress per episode. This is where I think my channel isn't getting it done. When the truck starts to look like a truck again it might pick up, but Im good with flying low with this stuff. A lot of people want to do KZbin as a full time job, that's something I have zero interest in doing. I just like making my videos and hoping it helps someone else who's doing something close to what im doing... And again, I appreciate the kind words 😎

Appreciate that 👍

Lol I've been trying to get a bit for the mag drill for almost 2 weeks, then realized I had the right size available with the drill 🤦🤦 brain fade delayed the next video...

@@Otto_Factory lmao

Your right I'm not happy with you 😂 get to uploading.

@@josephschmier3733 🤣

Thanks, I appreciate that 😎

Thanks, I appreciate that 😎

I love you

@@Midship00 I know