@@BipinBabu-k4c Hi! Email me at [email protected]. I'll delete this reply once we connect because I get enough spam as it is 😄

Sorry, i don't. If I were guessing, I'd say they are molex, about 5mm. But there are so many different types and I'm such a rookie that I'm probably wromg. I'm sure you can go ask in the expatria discord. The project is open source on github, so maybe you can find an answer there, too.

thank you anyway!@@tonyrichmond9428

Thanks! I've been super busy homesteading lately, so not a lot of video happening. I do have to use the cnc to cut some brackets for a chicken coop I'm building, so maybe I'll make a video on that whole thing.

Thanks, but credit for this goes to expatria and the flexihal control board. Preflashed with grblhal and it was literally 2 wires from the board to the vfd, and 4 settings to change on the vfd, all listed on the printnc wiki. I can't remember if one of the settings was the communicating baud rate, but I did have to update that as well.

Pretty sure this one was 10inx12in. If you're looking for something similar, go check out the LR3. It's advertised as great for the larger formats, but my friend built one about 24inx24in (you can find videos of that one cutting alunimum on my channel, too), and it's AWESOME at smaller sizes. Dust collection, wire management, workpiece access....all better than the mpcnc. Plus it's designed to let you have your table back when not cutting, and it scales all the way up to full sheet with some more tube, wire, and matching strut plates. I'm not convinced you even have to give up any performance over the mpcnc either, and if it turns out you do, there's no way it will be significant enough to outweigh the pros. Downsides include a slightly more difficult assembly (partially assembling to cut it's own parts, then disassembling to install them) and slightly more expensive, basically for the mgn rails.

@Tony Richmond thank you for the response! I actually just realized you're the guy who gave me advice for electroplating the parts on Facebook. Thank you double! I wish I asked this before i printed all the mpcnc parts...at this point I want to complete it, but now I'll go ahead and use it to build parts for a small sized lowrider 3 like you recommend and then put the router on the lr3 and use the mpcnc as a laser engraver

@@stevendaddario8803 advice might be stretching a little, I just sent you to a forum post. But I do try to be helpful. Us DIY folks are a relatively small group, so we gotta be supportive. I've built several versions of V1 machines at various sizes. I think I have to be close to a dozen configurations now. Only saying it because I think having a standalone primo laser is a great use for that! Mine is on diode duty right now actually. I was able to push it so fast that I just couldn't keep up with the chips, and they invariably jammed up the trucks within five minutes, leading to skipped steps, failed jobs, and ruined stock. I'm just not the kind of guy to slow down, and it was already as small as I could afford to have it, so no room for a vacuum hose or dust shoe. Fortunately, my two big complaints (dust collection and workholding) aren't even considerations for a diode, much less a problem. It will also be nice to cut your own lowrider parts on the primo, so you can assemble it in one go. Once you get comfortable running, look into tiling. Basically, you cut pair or trio of holes in your stock (usually a waste cutout or in the stock outside the part), then a matching set in your spoilboard. By lining up the holes, you'll have known locations that you can use to setup a second (or 3rd or 4th etc) operation. This will let you cut parts much larger than your primo (in one direction at least), which you may have to do for the lowrider struts. Also, since you DO have some time to think about it, go check out Doug's quick change tool mount for the LR3. His channel is Design 8 Studios, and he's got some pretty cool stuff. Or look for the outdoor idex build on the forum. Jamie is working on two independent tools on the same axis, like dual extruder printers. A router amd a laser soimd like a good plan to me.

I really can't remember. I just took this video to document that it was functional to the V1 forum, where I got some awesome help to work through my self-imposed challenges. I THINK I was slicing at my old printer settings, something like 110/35, but I KNOW I doubled it to get to whatever this is. And the cube looks way better than anything that came off my old printer in the last year.

Where?

That sounds like Mickey laught

@@kougy7574 mickey what?

@@tonyrichmond9428 where ?

You mean who?

Sure is. V1 engineering repeat v4. Sort of a larger build, I guess.

@@tonyrichmond9428very impressive!

@@tonyrichmond9428what’s you max speed for good printing?

I haven't worked up a top speed yet. I've got another video with a calibration cube. Sliced at 60/30, and I doubled it halfway through. Looked really good, plenty of speed to go, zero ghosting. I'll go make sure it's public. Absolutely loving this orbiter. Very light, very strong.

@@NEWTechCreative you know you want to build one. I'll slice a cube as fast as you want and make a video if it will convince you to build one.

That's pretty incredible!

I don't know about that. Root is also pretty well known, and then there's Bob's CNC (which I guess is more of a kit). I guess there really aren't too many "big name" DIY CNCs. Most of them are kits like the OneFinity, Longmill, or Avid. I'll try to nutshell this for the machines I've built:

MPCNC Burly - great starter machine, very capable, very flexible. Deprecated in favor of the Primo.

MPCNC Primo - everything the burly is, plus some more efficient use of parts and space. Belt tensioning is fantastic, the core is elegant, but requires your printer to be dialed in...that's your perpendicularity. The trucks give people some trouble where the motors mount up(very thin mounting plate), but mine were serviceable and have given me no actual trouble. Biggest challenge for the MPCNC (all versions) is getting the legs right. If you build one, make a jig to get the placement square, and make a fixture to get all 4 leg corners mounted at the same height. You can compensate for parallelogram leg placement with dual endstops, but a pair of tubes for one axis are different lengths, the gantry is going to bind up, and you'll never get a flat wasteboard if your gantry has one leg out of plane. Totally worth the effort, though. Bang-for-the-buck KING imo. Only things I don't like is having to manage the wiring, find a place for the control board, and no dust collection available that won't take up some cutting room.

MPCNC LowRider 2 - All I can say is that it's kinda slow. I had some build-quality issues that affected performance somewhat. The tubes hanging off the table got in the way of my desk drawers. I added Z endstops that actually made my life more difficult. Better to have identical blocks to rest the gantry on and set the height that way. Horrible to get a the tool for zeroing the Z (although the dewalt comes all the way out of the mount for tool changes), very little visibility of the work, and the mounting plate makes it very difficult to use clamps. Single motor offset from the center of the mounting plate lost steps on too many jobs for me, so I only built one. Dust collection is a plus, though. Deprecated in favor of the LR3.

MPCNC Lowrider 3 - Absolutely love this machine. The one I videoed here belongs to a friend down the street, and I'm planning my own now. I was worried about the single stepper, but it seems adequate. We bogged the router down a little but never lost steps, so that seems like a great balance of power. Integrated dust control, logical wiring, control-board placement provisions, belts that won't catch trash, easy work holding and visibility...this thing has it all. Way more rigid than I would have expected it to be, although the gantry can still twist a little if pushed too hard. Also, scales up AND down very well - I'd rather have one of these than a primo at any size. Much much better than the LR2. Still, slower than some other options, but not slower than any options that are cheaper. If this existed 3 years ago, I probably wouldn't have built the PrintNC.

Well, it's "Tony", not "Toni"... I'm somebody's brother in law, but nobody's sister in law... and I'm no carpenter, just a dude who likes to tinker and build stuff. But I'm glad you stopped by. If you find her, let her know about this weird coincidence!

🙂

Depends on which machine I'm driving, but the endmill can handle that in baltic ply no problem. My printnc can drive it that fast at that depth. I'd slow down a little on my mpcnc, though. Belted nema 17s are pretty amazing at performance to price, but a little less so at creating large forces. On a lowrider I'd probably run it slower still because of the axis with a single motor. I've run these at 20kRPM as slow as 40ipm without burning them up. If my machine couldn't handle 40ipm, I'd decrease the depth of cut. This endmill's upcut portion is 1/8inch, so as long as I cut deeper than that on the first pass, i engage the wood with the down cut part, and keep the cut clean. Hope that helps!

Oh, about plunging. You totally can, but you want the plunge to be fast. Heat builds up in about half a second. For these parts, i was cutting them loose, and the ramp was more for the exit than the entry. As it approaches the end of the countour it's cutting a thinner and thinner (shorter and shorter) strip of plywood. This reduces the force of the endmill on the part, and keeps it from jumping in the cut, which usually leads to a notch or scar and sometimes a ruined part.

I can't wait, actually. The lowrider 3 on my recent videos belonged to a friend of mine. He's already disassembled it and moved on to feed his hunger for tinkering. I'm looking forward to a full sheet build of my own, though. I picked up a pile of wood for the table last weekend. I really want to see how much performance we lose going from a small machine to a giant one.

Fusion 360.

@@tonyrichmond9428 thank you.

@@viteliohernandez No problem. Feel free to ask all the questions. I try my best to answer them.

I really appreciate that, I've been looking at the lowrider since V1. I've been a machinist for 16 yrs and I think I'm finally going to pull the trigger and have my own rig

@@viteliohernandez As an actual machinist, I think you'll find yourself simultaneously disappointed that it only goes as fast as it goes and impressed that it goes as fast as it goes, lol. Sounds like you've been looking at them long enough to understand that it won't take long to bump into the limits of plastic and tubes, but if you understand machines as well as I suspect you do, you'll figure out how to keep your work inside the performance envelope pretty quickly. I usually try to temper folks' expectations, but these last two machines Ryan designed (LR3/Primo) are really REALLY capable. It's not a Schunk, but it's also not more than a few hundred bucks. I think we're at the point where the best time to build a lowrider was last year, and the second best time is right now :D Enjoy your build, and if you aren't on the forum yet, go check it out. It's easily the best community I'm in, bar none. Read through the off-topic if you want to see just how awesome those folks are.

Thanks for the comment. What I always find odd is how much time people have to make comments on KZbin videos based on assumptions of priority and function. Accordions have been discussed at repeatedly on the pnc discord, and they rob travel, requiring a larger footprint, so just how necessary are they? Let's think... Well, how much dust is there, really? The dust collector picks up the VAST majority of it, with very little of whatever is left actually settling on the narrow screws and rails. Frankly, I'm more concerned about my lungs than my cnc, and I feel pretty good about what's getting picked up and captured right now. Smaller chips are easily pushed aside by the bearing block wipers and screw wipers. Larger chips aren't a problem for anything. For the dust that actually does get into the bearings? These are lubricated with grease, not oil, and it's cheap. Pump the grease in until it squishes out, and it will carry contaminents with it. Not all of them, sure, but enough that regular maintenance will bring the variation in time-to-failure down to a rounding error. I guess positional sensors would be nice, but the favorite solution is closed servos followed by closed loop steppers, both of which have integrated encoders. Since the motion components are fixed relation, you can measure the motor position instead of the gantry position. And the motors don't care how much dust gets on the rails (especially if it's practically none). Hopefully this sheds some light on the choices, and you can find it a little less odd from now on.

Thanks for the comment. The real waste of time for me is when the conventional cut (the return pass) rips a splinter out, leaving a deep gouge and I have to start over. The next best strategy would be a pocket, but I really don't enjoy ramping with large mills like this (nor the corner loading, nor the full-width first pass) because this is still a hobby-class cnc with hobby-cnc power. Most to the point, though, I can reliably generate THIS gcode with an excel spreadsheet with just a few inputs in less than a minute. Any time I save with different paths would probably be outweighed by the programming of them. Hope my perspective sheds some light on my choice.

Ah, a non-barbarian friend, I see. 120*25.4 is just a touch over 3000mm/min.

23s, i think around 300 oz or so, but I forget. They were the ones recommended in the kit, if that helps.

With that said the $10 mist systems with IPA is a game changer in Aluminum, and no mess to clean up after.

Might be something there with the larger endmill. With the kyocera i get the best evacuation on higher speeds, seemed to work well on the 1/8 amana also. Looks like most of the crunching happened where chips were still in the cut from the previous pass, so plain air would definitely be plenty. I agree with ipa, though. I've been down the cutting oil/wd40 route. Adds zero positive things to cutting for me.

Hey Doug, nice to see you over here! This video was with his Amana 51474z.

@@tonyrichmond9428 cool, thanks!!

He swapped in a makita handheld trim router for this one.

@@tonyrichmond9428 oh interesting, I would have expected a heavier/full size router to be able to make those cuts, very good to know!

@@kc8omg if you go back a couple videos, you can hear it really work on the deeper cuts. Part of the reason to favor light DOC and heavy stepovers with higher feeds. Super fun to dream about going full depth to use more flute, but it's just not a machine you would find in Titan's shop! You need big rigidity and big power for that.

@@tonyrichmond9428 still very impressive cutting for the construction of the machine- I see now too the Makita trim router is "full power", aka 1.25HP, just like "standard" router, just a smaller diameter. When I read your last comment I was thinking it was something smaller like the DeWalt 660 like suggested for the MPCNC (only ~0.75 HP)

And much faster cycle than last time

Alloy unknown. It was the last plate in a shop that primarily sells 6061 and 7075, but also sells other grades. My friend didn't ask, he was just happy to get some. Based on our first run (using the starting f/s I give everyone and am familiar with) and the degree of bend in the finished clamps when he screws them down, i suspect its at least as hard as 6061, but I'm no expert. The 6061 I buy from a different shop is not shiny.

He's using the Bart Dring 6 pack, which I think comes with FluidNC.

@@tonyrichmond9428 Do you know what flavor of gcode that runs? Does he have a Fusion360 post processor for it? I've been leary of leaving the Marlin ecosystem just because it's so complete.

@@kc8omg I think he uses the flyfisher post, but either that one or the other popular Marlin post on the forum both make suitable grbl gcode. It can also run grbl from the generic posts. For what it's worth, Marlin has seen a lot of development over the last few years, so the advantage for grbl isn't as clear (except the real-time pause vs running out the buffer). Add that 32bit grbl isnt as straightforward to flash as 8bit grbl, and I'm not even sure what the winner is anymore.

I am using "DIYCNC Milling/Laser - Grbl 1.1" from the vendor guffy1234.

@@tommyers7634 thanks! The name escaped me!

It sounds really solid, too. I had a couple turns of chatter on my primo with a smaller DOC (faster feed). I don't think there is any way around needing a finish pass on aluminum with these, but that's a very small price to pay for cutting ALUMINUM on a 3d printed cnc!

Yeah, it's been a couple years already I think. With this kind of performance on the LR, i don't even know what the Primo does anymore, lol. I'll see if my friend can do the primo speed tests so we can compare them directly. I was planning on building a small lowrider next year just for that purpose, but his is running great so we could have results much sooner. I don't know squat about engineering, so my opinion is what it is, but IF the lowrider isn't giving up much (if anything) to the primo at smaller sizes, this could really free him up to investigate whether he can get a significant performance bump by spending more. IOW, why have two 5 $500 desktop machines if one will do and you could have a$500 machine and a $1000 beast in your lineup.

Look at that, the man himself! We did push a lil harder on the adaptive, but I haven't uploaded that one because we ran into firmware limits and we don't really know what the machine was running....just that it wasn't as much as we were sending. It was great fun to do this on a lowrider, and I'm really leaning toward building one for myself just so i can recommend it over the primo for everyone except the folk that want the absolute highest aluminum mrr.

That movement is from the tube flexing. The steppers are doing their job. This makes a mess of the part that I had to clean up with careful finish passes, so that wasn't bad. But the inertia from the tube plus the force from cutting could sometimes be enough to make the steppers skip, too. I'd like to see your project idea. Sounds like you'd lose some cut area, but maybe I don't understand correctly.

@@tonyrichmond9428 yes u are right i will loose 100mm in x and y direktion but i hope that the machine will be much more stiff with te double pipes (on x and y)

24inx48in

Just a cheap one, HQMASTER I think. I think the battle is equal parts making your machine rigid, having a halfway decent endmill, and getting your CAM right. What's holding you back on a cnc right now?

@@tonyrichmond9428 mostly time and all the other projects I have planned

@@martijnpeters oh man that is certainly relatable! I can say that learning how to RUN a cnc is a project all in itself, so the cnc ends up being a few projects all wrapped into one. BUT....it has certainly made a lot of my other projects happen faster and or with much better finished result. Good luck getting through all of them, and what a great challenge to have! I'm sure I could walk down the street and meet a dozen people who wished they were in a position to even have a list of projects to do someday.

Yay!

Glad you liked it!

Hey glad to see you over here! I found your videos through the v1 forum. That little jog is for chip thinning. It's an option in the facing passes panel. The idea is to keep the chips thinner where the tool edge exits the cut on the first segment of the pass by rounding the stock first with the tool's entry. With tough materials, the combination of the tensile strength of the chip (near the tool exit) and the chip being unsupported at the exit can be significant enough to impact tool life, so it's a great option to keep your tools alive. In wood, I doubt I'll ever notice that impact, but i HAVE found that the decreased cutting force gives me much less tearout in softer wood like this, which was causing little pock-marks in the finished surface. Hope that makes sense!

I can imagine it would help with tool life as you hit the resin which is much harder than wood, giving you a bit of an interrupted cut that can be punishing on inserts. I made this up

2.2

You're correct....not what's going on here. Most CAM programs make it trivial to set a maximum depth of cut and will calculate the depth of each pass for you. They also make it easy to cut an arbitrary distance away from your part (roughing) or right exactly to dimension (finishing). You can combine these in different toolpaths, or with some (like fusion360) it's just another option to set and have it all in one toolpath. I did the latter here, using fusion360, with 2 rough passes and no finish at all depths except the final depth, which was finish only. This gives me room to let the chips fly out as it gets deeper, and the last pass has very little load on it with a cut that goes from top to bottom all at once. Estlcam is very user friendly (if somehat more limited), so have a look at that one too. Fusion 360 is notorious for having too many options when you're just trying to wrap your head around CAM, but it's that and the sketch tools that keep me on it. Good luck with your CNC!

I really appreciate your response! I’m currently learning Fusion 360. I started with Vectric Aspire, but it seems kinda limited on tool path options.

@@CabooseLoL I appreciate your question! If you see any of my other videos, it'll be pretty obvious that I'm trying to remind everyone that they aren't the only ones struggling to get this stuff under the belt! Fusion has it's deficiencies, but it's pretty good at a lot of things. If you are a student, be sure to check out their student license. Full version, zero dollars. Or if you have a small business (or would like one) make sure to apply for their startup license (also 0 dollars, but some business qualifications. Took a couple days to get approved, but that's what I'm using right now.

Thanks!

Hi! It's something I had in my head that I made with parts from other machines. I wouldn't really call this an upgrade, since the z was not very stiff at all. You can hear some chatter here and it's because the spindle is just SO far from the gantry. What are you trying to get from an upgrade? The LR3 is out and it's pretty good. Wish it had two motors on x, but it's pro solid.

@@tonyrichmond9428 I am looking for stiffness yes. My concept is to find a 3D printed design that I can then print hollow components and fill them with epoxy granite. Simple play sand will be sufficient. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy_granite

If it were me, I'd seriously consider a printnc mini. Epoxy is expensive, and you'll be able to reuse your electronics and motors. If you really want to go epoxy, I think you might have some luck with one of the Root machines. The parts are less complex (although there are more of them) and printing hollow should be easier. Id also bet money that at least some of the parts could be made from plate either all at once or in layers and bonded together. Have you considered keeping your eyes open for designs that let you easily use larger steppers? Seems like a lot more mass to drive around, and I wonder if 17s will be happy. Either way, good luck, and I hope you drop a link here when you're done so I can check it out. Even better if you document the whole process on KZbin. I'd watch it.

It's a 110v 2.2kw. I don't recall the brand, but I smoked the bearings in that one and had to replace it.

I agree that i could have likely gone faster, and going deeper would have preserved more of the tool for later cutting. Only defense I have is that I started with the tech data from the tool manufacturer. Your advice squares with the advice I've gotten from people who actually cut steel on these, so that's nice! Maybe one day I'll get back to this, but I've got a lot of projects on my list, and one of them is a plasma cutter. Thanks for chiming in!

Only thing special about it is that it's stupid cheap. Momentary NO switch in a 3D printed part. On my mpcnc, it lived in a fixed location. More on that here: forum.v1engineering.com/t/new-z-offset-setup/23756/3 Right now its more handy to move around because i like to use temporary spoilboards on my through-cut pieces (like this charcuterie board). Good luck!

@@tonyrichmond9428 That's excellent, thank you for the information. I had assumed is was just a NO momentary switch. I'd like to set mine up in a fixed location so that I can recalculate the tool offset during a project. I haven't worked through though details and I'm not sure if it's better than just using my contact plate to zero it on the part, but it looks cool, so I'm thinking about giving it a go. Thanks for your videos on your PrintNC. I look forward to seeing more in the future (no pressure).

@@gizmobowen glad to hear it! I've kicked around the idea of voicing over the video with what I'm doing, but I really don't know how much value that will add to the deal. I think these are good videos to fastforward, lol. The whole thing started as documentation to show folks how often I screw up on my way to figuring something out, lol. Plenty of videos of people dialed in, chewing through aluminum amd even steel, but I wanted the slower folks to know that at least they have company! Very capable machine, but I run mine for hours a week just turning over little jobs. Much faster than the mpcnc (but maybe not faster than 6 mpcncs, which I could have built for this price!). For your switch, maybe consider adding some rare earth magnets to the bottom of your print, then sinking a screw per magnet into the spoil board and leaving your wires long. It'll stay put while you touch off, but you can pick it up and move it to whatever surface you need to zero. Or maybe I'll try it out and make a video?

Its a huanyang 110, came with the 110 spindle. I don't have any complaints, but it's also my first vfd so I don't have anything to compare it to. It does its job. I haven't used any of the software controls yet (speed, on/off, air, etc) but i have a control board picked out for grblhal, so eventually....

@@tonyrichmond9428 Sounds perfect. I've got my grblHAL board already and planned to go with a 110v setup for VFD/Spindle. Hoping for some basic steel cutting capability. Definitely better than the MPCNC I'm coming from.

@@FoxyBuildsDIY awesome! I also cut my teeth on the MPCNC. It's slinging a laser now, but at a very small size it chewed through aluminum respectably (video here on the channel). I haven't had any REAL success with steel yet, but Hoges suggested i ditch the coated multiflute endmills designed for steel and get some cheap 6mm single flute carbides and let it rip with larger stepovers and smaller DOCs. He's got video showing that it works better than what I did (my videos also on the channel here). Check it out to see how it went, then search Hoges's channel for his steel video to see the difference.

No link for instructions because there aren't any, sorry. I'll do what i can here. Other links at the end. Get yourself a suitable length of sheetgood for the base and screw a piece of lumber at the head and foot to hold the rails (i used 2x4, but a little more height would have been nice). I printed 4 feet from the mpcnc to hold the rails to the wood, 4 LR2-x-mounts from the lowrider (assemble with bearings and bolts as in lowrider instructions). Both machines have parts available for 1 in od and 25mm od, so pick what's available in your country. Cut tubes to fit inside head and foot blocks. The printed feet can take up some slack, so it's ok if your tubes are a bit shorter, maybe 1-1.5 inches, even, but mine were pretty close. Fit the feet to the tubes, don't tighten. Cut a plate big enough for your saw and all 4 LR2-x-mounts, and lay it out to make sure it fits. The hard part is getting the rollers parallel and in line. Either modify the 611 plate dxf for the lowrider amd print a template to use or CAREFULLY line up the tubes and rollers and get it all measured and marked, then screw it down. Screw your saw down between the tubes(i had to drill holes in mine). Finally, mount the plate/tube assembly into the track. It helps for the feet to still be loose at this point. I propped mine up with a scrap of wood to give me about 1" clearance between the plate and the track. Run the saw to one end and screw those feet into the end block, then run it to the other end and screw those feet in. This helps to make sure the tubes stay parallel. Tighten the feet. That's about it for construction. Unlock the saw, start it up, lower it through the plate until it just touches the track, and run a cut all the way down so you have a visual mark to line up your stock to cut. Maybe consider a stop block at the head, since the saw can't cut all the way to the end. I can clamp mine to the table, so I didnt bother, and now i have a better table saw so i don't use it much. I've linked the mpcnc burly because that's what I used for feet. There is a new version (mpcnc primo) that would probably also be suitable. I'll try to answer any questions, here, too. Parts www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026040 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517 Part documentation (for hardware size, assembly, and hardware count) docs.v1engineering.com/mpcnc/Pbase/ docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider/lrv2/indexv2/

Wow, I didn't know Voron was open to kitting like that. Good luck!

Definitely save the expensive hardware. I pick mine up from boltsdepot.com, but if you can find them cheap locally...do that. Standard bolts lay flatter and the holes are designed around them. You can also use the more common 5/16 here in the states instead of the 8mm...they tend to be cheaper and only a few thousandths different. The documentation on v1engineering.com is very complete, so I can't say there's anything I would mention in terms of the build. Best suggestion is to plan out your intended use and run it by the folks on the forum. Plenty of ways to approach your build to make it just how you need it. This build (I've made several) is 12"x24". I saw your other post about cutting a lot of aluminum. I don't think I'll say the mpcnc is BEST for that, but it is certainly capable if you're willing to be patient (you can see the MRRs i get), and I haven't found a better one in terms of bang for the buck. I'm happy to discuss specific questions, if you have any, either here or on the forum.

@@tonyrichmond9428 I'm in Canada so we have the same emt conduit size

@@jstro-hobbytech id strongly consider DOM over emt amd as small a build as you can get away with for cutting aluminum. The rigidity will be MUCH better, making the machine more forgiving of marginal CAM and tightening up your learning curve.

@@tonyrichmond9428 sorry man. What is Dom? As long as it fits the primo c build I'll buy it. There's a metal store about an hour away that carries everything.

@@jstro-hobbytech Drawn Over Mandrel. Generally stronger and stiffer than Electric Resistance Welded tube. Larger tubes will usually be stiffer, all other things equal. I tested a length of ERW mild steel, 1 inch, 1/16 wall and it was about as stiff as the 3/4 conduit (which has a thicker wall and is just under 0.9" OD). DOM would likely be slightly better, and with thicker DOM there is no comparison. If your build is sufficiently small, the difference might not have much impact. Sounds like you already have the printed parts though? I don't think you'll find anything other than EMT that fits the C parts anyway. You'll just have to be more careful with your programming and settle for slower cutting for a not-small build, no big deal.