The pattern shouldn't be a problem. I've never tried engraving silicone with the fiber laser, but I have seen other people do it.

Nice, what I'm after is the holographic portion. I have a 50w JPT fiber laser and wanted to make my own holograms. I have seen where they transfer the hologram to chocolate using a silicone mold, I am hoping to transfer the custom art to resin.

@@4theloot638 ah, no, that won't work. It's marked directly onto the steel, and doesn't wash or come off.

@lightcutlasers Ok, thank you for your time and the replies. I guess I will keep looking.

@@4theloot638could you share were did u see the colour transfer?

Is your steel mirror finished?

It wasrm shimmed to make the blade parallel with the bed. And not a MOPA. Just a 50 JPT out of focus by 3mm. Without the MOPA, I just can't get the colours (3mm put of focus), and a nice dark black annealing (7mm out of focus for this particular lens) at the same time.

@@lightcutlasers niiiice, using the 50W non MOPA JPTs to get color is awesome.

Thanks! +3mm

With the crosshatch, the second pass is positioned 90° from the first, creating a crosshatch. So with the first pass being 45° with this one, the second is - 45°

@@lightcutlasers respect brother 🙏 i made it!! Not very clean us yours but good enough haha

I have not. But if the lock is made out of stainless steel, it should work. Might also have to be flat because the lens focus is important.

Thanks !

His budget is also way bigger than mine.

Good point. It wasn't encrusted with rust. It was just surface rust. A wire wheel on a bench grinder would have had no problem with that.

I don't recall specific settings, but my lens was 3mm out of focus, and no more than 15% power. Different material make up will also affect the final look. I tried the exact same settings on a different stainless steel pocket knife, and it looked nothing like this one. I imagine the much thinner cards you're using is also playing a part. All my business cards are anodized aluminum, so I can't try any test runs on them.

Is it a MOPA?

@@livinginhoustontx5671 No, just a regular JPT.

What do you use to coat them?

@@user-hn8yw7yg1l bro its Stainless :D

210mm! I have a 300, but haven't set it up/calibrated it yet. I don't remember any of the settings, but I have a knife that I ran a bunch of test grids on that I reference. And I was 3mm above focus.

@@user-tt3px2ne1p Hi, have you managed to convert the parameters because I can't do it for a 20w 110mm laser ...

​@@mrSanders.If I'm understanding what you mean by 'streaking', I get that a lot when the 'Flood Fill' option is turned on. Once I turn that off, the streaking stops.

50w JPT fiber laser.

Sounds pretty good to me!

Ah, watching it in real time under a microscope would be really neat! I may try to set up my macro photography gear to see if I can get a good close up look.

That red circular light is just a framing tool. The laser isn't firing when my fingers are in the frame.

@@lightcutlasers Much thanks

That's great, you're welcome! The finish definitely makes a difference, as well as steel composition. I tried the same settings on a stainless steel pocket knife with a matte finish, and got wildly different results.

Oi! Respect dude. Turd!

They were worth a dollar each before, and are still worth a dollar each. They were nothing special.

That’s not correct, at all. Yes, it is an oxide layer. But it’s not "removing" the "stainless" property of the steel, (no steel is truly stainless, or oxidation proof anyway, just resistant). The addition of chromium Cr, and to a lesser extent other other alloying elements like Ni, are what give steels in the stainless family their corrosion resistant properties. This does nothing to remove those elements, or change the properties of the steel in any way whatsoever.

and to add to that, the process of annealing or creating a surface oxide layer as you mention actually prevents rust on its own, even on mild steel