Any chance of an Epoxy finish video?

Y

Ceren awesome

I watched a bunch of videos while trying to get ready to do my first guide replacement. This is the ONE. I'm heading to the cellar right now to get to work. Thanks!

Thankyou so much for this great knowledge tuition on rod whipping very good indeed

This is a fantastic video, and it showed me exactly what I needed to know, now on to part 2.

Great video

I am a fan, looking forward to more videos.

thanks. nice put together video.

Great video I have a question does the shrink wrap come in clear wrap

Mu tu yang baik ????

Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing

Thanks for info 👍

I've a set of aviators had them 18months .my whipping are going milky/white is there anything I can do to sort this out. I've been told it's damp getting underneath.thanks Pete.

Loving your clear explanation loaded with so many tips!❤

I built my own rods for many years from the 1970s. Carp rods when there were just no shops selling them. Totally fascinating to see the techniques I taught myself are so similar to those you show, things mostly I stumbled across over time too. Funny how pretty much all my kit was the same as yours…except I would run my fingers nails over to ensure there were no tiny gaps rather than using a ruler. Tension was the key and turning the whipping with a slight inward angle to the thread already on so it guided the new loops into place. I whipped on so many that I swear I could do it in the dark. Back then the first rods were all glass fibre. Names like Hunter, casting sticks. Then it was early carbons, north western blanks and Simpson’s of Turnford “ stepped up” 1 3/4lb test blanks. I would whip on Fuji clip style reels fittings too. Initially I used fine wire to pull tag ends through, replacing that for thread loops as the wire often cut the loop trying to pull it under. I used “dope” as a first application to the thread. That was meant to “ tighten it” but I was never convinced and if the whipping was anything other than black it could make the thread look patchy. I must have read all these things in a book or magazine but I met rod builders who showed me how to roll a blank to find the spline where the cloth finished in the blank making it slightly stronger for casting in a certain direction. I knew how many eyes I needed, what size and a rough spacing guide, but to place them I did something no one would do now when everyone wants precisely matching rods. With the reel on I would load up the rod against the resistance weight of the stated test curve, 1 3/4lb say of carefully weighed out lead in a bag to which the line out of the tip eye was tied. I pulled on the weight until it was just about to lift off the floor, see how the line followed the rods natural curve. I then moved eyes up and down so that the line matched the rod curve as closely as possible to minimise the gaps between the eyes and the blank. It took some time but when it looked right, the distance between eyes was set with another tighter piece of masking tape. It was amazing what weight you could lift with just taped eyes, but back then we used way more than 6 eyes on a 12 foot rod. Whipping the first side of each eye was the critical thing because once the whipping bumped up onto the leg it would often slip a bit. That was the time to sight down the rod straight through the guides like a gun sight and realign it. All the adjustment over on one side of the eye I would try to whip on the other side a little tighter. Sometimes I would tip the whipping with a coloured blue, green or red flash, but that served no strength giving purpose so it didn’t matter so much if it wasn’t so consistently taught. The amazing thing was I didn’t use epoxy on those guides just multiple varnish coats which dried with me constantly hand turning. I pretty much have all those early carbon rods to this day including Simpsons KM dual tapers, a strange concept which created a kind of flat middle section of the natural rod curve with more bending at the butt end. The most peculiar thing which annoys the hell out of a modern carper when you point it out, because the eyes were fixed in position so that the line matched the full test curve bend with minimal offset, and the true test curve of those blanks was slightly different because of the carbon cloth weave on the mandrel, the eyes didn’t get positioned to be precisely alongside their neighbour in that “ matched pair”. The eye spacing matched the specific rod action not the stated test curve. For me that was the right thing to do. I could of course just have matched precise positioning of the eyes on the second rod to the first rod of the pair, only moved the eyes up and down on the first “ master” rod to decide on the correct eye spacing. But you know what those old carbons, despite the blanks softening well below those earlier test curves, still have a lovely action with the line following the battle bend so precisely. I still use them floater fishing, even deadbaiting for pike as they rarely ping the bait off the hook. But mostly because I built them myself so they give huge satisfaction to use them. And although the varnish fish, multi layers, multi hand sanded, has seen better days, not a single one of the eyes has ever worked loose or needed replacement. Of course far too many eyes really and too small by the standard of today’s carp rods, but that doesn’t matter one bit. I meticulously filed any sharp edges on the legs to ensure they didn’t cut the whipping when flexing, so it all must have been worth it. One of those very Simpsons of Turnford blanks went on to catch me the lake record mirror carp from the famous Cuttle Mill at Wishaw, when Brewer owned it before Tony Higgins. A monster for the 1980s of 27lb 8oz, caught on my home made peanut special paste bait. I wouldn’t part with that rod for all the money in the world. There’s nothing to compare to catching a lake record on a rod you built yourself on a bait you made yourself. But it’s great to see how rod building techniques have come on so much and high standards maintained by the likes of your good selves. I should probably get the old girls a set of new clothes, a renovation and epoxy protection on those old whippings, still not sure though as right now they are the authentic original build. But what huge satisfaction I got from completing them, catching on them. If only modern day carp anglers knew how good that feels!! And you are based in my hometown area too, what could be better. So many great manufacturing skills were born in the North West unappreciated by the country at large. Keep up the good work.

Still in the top 2 rods, depending of user. Will they ever make a better blank....... I doubt it. Very well done Harrison 👍👍👍

Excellent informative video

😃👍👍👍👍

I'm not sure your still looking at your old KZbin messages. Great video fella.very informative and now I'm gonna look at ordering everything I will need to do it your way without spending the big bucks cheers Apologies I know absolutely nothing about wood, how do you mean in the terminology what sounded like to me 5/1 and 6/1 soft wood please

I've made a few rods and I find it easiest to hold the thread bobbin between my knees and apply a little tension turning the rod in my hands.

J love full shrink 💪❤️

These are my rods, 12 foot 3 1/4 test. I have landed some huge fish on them, love them BUT in the rain the resin on the eyes turns white or if the tips are put under water. They look awful when affected, fine if it’s dry. Anyone know the cause…I suspect water is creeping under the hi build somehow but there are no obvious cracks. And can you cure it but re applying a coating when the whipping are dry or do they need complete re-whipping?

Followed this video.. Replaced a broken guide for the first time. Very happy with the result.

An excellent video, well presented 👏

What a great video! Not whipped rings for 25 years but this was great for simplicity and very easy to follow. Thanks - made it a lot easier.

Great stuff. Haven't whipped rings for 30 plus years when we bought blanks and whipped our own rings. Found this very useful. Though my efforts weren't great! 😝😝

They rods look smart. Like a guide stick

Informative, thanks

Hope you cover epoxying the guide wraps soon - great videos

I fdup the epoxy very upsetting

Fantastic video where do you buy the epoxy resin

Thankyou for these videos, I have an old conoflex bass bones rod which one of the eyes had snapped and all the varnish was flaking off. I've taken the original measurements and stripped it down, I've then rubbed it back using wet and dry and now looking to put a new reel seat on it, new eyes and shrink tubing on the butt section. So have found your videos really helpful thanks

This is some next level shit wow

wooowww saludos Master desde los cabos Mexico.....¡

Thank you so much for the informative tutorial, simple and effective.

Thanks for idea

how do you get shrink wrap on the fore grip please?

Im a Subscriber of your Channel...I learn a lot from your videos...can I ask you about something? I have 12' rod and all guide rings are damage..can you give me a suggestion what are the numbers of guide rings that suits for my 12' rod...THANKS...your suggestion is a great help.

You used to have Homemade Fisherman. Glad I found your video

The first rod I wrapped was with a cardboard box - brings back memories.

Great vids. Shame no reply to viewers or a resin video :(

for some reason i didnt here why you were burning the threads

Great video.... I’ve got a rod that needs the whippings painting and also a drop shot lure rod that’s broken in 2 places 5” in from the tip section so I will be watching some of these videos to get some sort of ideas. I’m a total novice so my take me a lot longer then watching this guy. I so wish he was my best friend or one of my close relatives.... he certainly knows what he’s doing.... just perfection 👍🏽😀🎣

Why no rods for pike fishing??

spot on nice to see it done properly for once, not over complicated 👍

Awesome vid so ooooooooo helpful

tackle jedi

Hi! Please, can you tell me, what end caps for rear reel seat you use? Many Thanks in Advance

One question.... after epoxy do you put a epoxy hardener on after or just leave epoxy bare. I've never done a rod from scratch but I've ordered all my stuff now to try my 1st one.